The Begining! 300DD build in-wall and basement fish room.

Paul B you bring up a good point. I would most likely use fresh lumber so its going to shrink. I may have to re-think this stand. I plan to keep the tank up for many many years so i would like no issues with the tank. lol Bad enough I had a close call with my 125 when it decided to go through the sub floor. The steel stand cut right through carpet and began going through the plywood. I had to carefully jack it up from the basement and reinforce the area.
 
Some new lumber turns into Bow and arrows it warps so much. If you want to go for teak or some other hardwood for the top that may help, but steel will be a lot cheaper.
I think you will be sorry using new wood.
You can even get some aluminum I beams for the top but you would have to support the center.
 
I just finished a 260 build in-wall viewable from both long sides. The thing I did not anticipate or plan for was over heating issues. If viewable from both sides you may be totally enclosing the lighting, which is what I did. It's like an oven! Even with 2x 8" fans running 24/7 there was initially a 10 degree water temp rise during the 12 hr photo period until I installed a chiller. If totally enclosing the lighting definitely go with LED and plan for a chiller.
Chiton
 
chiton said:
I just finished a 260 build in-wall viewable from both long sides. The thing I did not anticipate or plan for was over heating issues. If viewable from both sides you may be totally enclosing the lighting, which is what I did. It's like an oven! Even with 2x 8" fans running 24/7 there was initially a 10 degree water temp rise during the 12 hr photo period until I installed a chiller. If totally enclosing the lighting definitely go with LED and plan for a chiller.
Chiton
Click to expand...

Nonsence. Its all in how you ventilate , pumps are a huge factor also. Pumps mean friction, friction means heat. Provided the ambient air temperature is moderate you should not NEED a chiller. If you need a chiller you are doing something wrong.
 
I have to agree to an extent. I have an enclosed in wall setup with halides and only have a 4-5 degree rise in temp during the photo period. Previously I had a water cooled external pump that produced a lot of heat, but was silent. Now I have a dart that's in a closet behind and less heat issues. I also installed a 6" exhaust fan that turns on for 5min every hour and small computer fan to draw in room air into the space where the tank is 24/7. Anyways, can't wait to see your setup!

reefnut2012 said:
Nonsence. Its all in how you ventilate , pumps are a huge factor also. Pumps mean friction, friction means heat. Provided the ambient air temperature is moderate you should not NEED a chiller. If you need a chiller you are doing something wrong.
Click to expand...
 
DeepSeaBeauti said:
Yeah Ive been reading about the lack of silicone on the inside of the overflows. I also keep seeing mention about modifying the teeth so you get better water flow. Do you know anything about that? Pictures, and why exactly? I also want to do a Herbie style overflow to keep it silent, but doesn't it require 2 lines? I have 4 holes total, so does that mean I should have two more drilled?



I'm planing on putting it on the first floor, and right below it in the basement a room dedicated to all things fish. Still debating on using my current 125 as a sump/refrigum, or the 55 I was going to use on my 125.
What are the things you would change? I would love to avoid any and all changes if possible.
Click to expand...

I believe that most people do with this style over flow, is just run the return lines outside of the tank. Then you don't need to worry about drilling two more holes, and since you doing this in wall you can just hide the lines in the walls.

What I am envisioning that you are doing, and correct me if I am wrong, is to have two viewable sides to the tank with neither side being a fish room. Then plumbing down into the basement and hiding everything there. My question is what are you going to do about access to the lights and the plumbing? Some sort of access panel?

I can't really help on equipment but do you have a list of what you currently have that way you can get suggestions on what should and should not be upgraded?
 
reefnut2012 said:
Nonsence. Its all in how you ventilate , pumps are a huge factor also. Pumps mean friction, friction means heat. Provided the ambient air temperature is moderate you should not NEED a chiller. If you need a chiller you are doing something wrong.
Click to expand...

Silliness, pumps having next to nothing to do with it! If I leave my lights off there is no temp rise and I have 5 different pumps running. In fact the temp decreases in my setup because my basement is usually at 64 degrees or lower.

Ventilation is the key here, and having an open side in the hood is the ultimate ventilation, which most designs have. If you don't, I'm just saying it's chiller time.

Chiton
 
chiton said:
Silliness, pumps having next to nothing to do with it! If I leave my lights off there is no temp rise and I have 5 different pumps running. In fact the temp decreases in my setup because my basement is usually at 64 degrees or lower.

Ventilation is the key here, and having an open side in the hood is the ultimate ventilation, which most designs have. If you don't, I'm just saying it's chiller time.

Chiton
Click to expand...

+1

Also, keeping the basement itself cooler will help too.
 
chiton said:
I just finished a 260 build in-wall viewable from both long sides. The thing I did not anticipate or plan for was over heating issues. If viewable from both sides you may be totally enclosing the lighting, which is what I did. It's like an oven! Even with 2x 8" fans running 24/7 there was initially a 10 degree water temp rise during the 12 hr photo period until I installed a chiller. If totally enclosing the lighting definitely go with LED and plan for a chiller.
Chiton
Click to expand...

reefnut2012 said:
Nonsence. Its all in how you ventilate , pumps are a huge factor also. Pumps mean friction, friction means heat. Provided the ambient air temperature is moderate you should not NEED a chiller. If you need a chiller you are doing something wrong.
Click to expand...


I know I have not brought many of you up to date in a while. Truth of the matter is I'm still in the middle of trying to get the final approval from the bank so I can go to closing on the new house. Looks like Monday might finally be the day. ( Fingers crossed) I'm dieing to get this tank out of storage and get the thing set up in the wall. Considering my commitment runs out Monday at 5PM hopefully you will slowly begin to see updates and more pictures.

Unless the wedding in march gets in the way :p

Chiton I considered your concern as well but even as reefnut suggest most of my equipment is going in the basement. The lighting I'm now considering is the sun! I have a nice straight shot right down to the tank to use solar tubes. I think I will supplement them with LED's eventually but meantime alternating with my MH.

I
 
Looks like plans are changing fast! lol Its amazing the things that put huge dampers into a build. Ive been non-stop painting, removing wall paper, ect... It seams that at the moment the tank is going to go in the same room, difference is its not going into the wall and will most likely have a custom bookshelf/ wall unit looking stand. There is a closet behind it so I can make access to it from there. I still plan on running all the equipment to the basement still.
Part of the change of location is the house is 107 years old, the wall I wanted to install it on is 3' wide. There is a coat closet on one side and service stairs for the maid. I don't want to eliminate the stairs. I feel as if it is part of the history of the house.

Well I just wanted to bring everyone up to speed. The tank is out of storage and I will begin building the stand in prob a few days.
 
Here is the latest rendering of the 300 DD. Its taken a lot of compromise with the wife to even get this. I have to build this stand soon so I can get my
125g out my grandparents house. I'm open to tips an suggestions.

BTW, I know many of you maybe concerned with the tank under the windows. I'm still planing on running solar tubes to light the tank so the little bit of spill over is not a concern for me.

Oh, and the drawing is still a work in progress, forgive the crudeness of the drawing.

A9XnFl.gif
 
Is there a size limit to sump/refrigum? I currently run a 30g refrigum under my 125, but with the 300DD underway I was thinking of using the 125 as my sump/refrigum. Its 6' long and could make a nice size one out of it. The filtration and equipment is all going to be in the basement. The display tank is the only thing that will be upstairs. Anyone see any problems with this?

Any sugestions or warnings?
 
Is there a size limit to sump/refrigum? I currently run a 30g refrigum under my 125, but with the 300DD underway I was thinking of using the 125 as my sump/refrigum. Its 6' long and could make a nice size one out of it. The filtration and equipment is all going to be in the basement. The display tank is the only thing that will be upstairs. Anyone see any problems with this?Any sugestions or warnings?
Click to expand...

No reason you cant use a 125 gallon tank for a sump.


Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2
 
blazzent said:
One question I have is, will your floor support a tank that size? Sounds like your are in an older home...
Click to expand...

I don't think any modern house has a chance holding this up. lol My house was build in 1905 out of rough cut true 2x12's the sub-floor is 5/8 tung and grove and the hard wood is 3/4" thick. I surprised in a house this out it makes no creaks and has no sags in the floors. But even with that said, one of the other reasons the equipment is going in the basement is so that it can be put in a room. The walls of the room are going to be used as support to keep the tank upstairs. I'm not even a little bit concerned with the tank being of there.
 
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