The Frogfish Files
- Thread starter gregt
- Start date
He is HUGE i will try to post pics soon.
uberfugu
New member
IME, 75° - 78° seems to be a good range. If you have corals, I'd go closer to 78°, FOWLR, I'd keep closer to 75°. The warmer the temp., the faster the animals metabolism.
Not necessarily, but any wound is an entry point for infection. Rather than use antibiotics as a prophylaxis (and risk upsetting microbial balance), I would rather shoot for pristine reef water conditions and let the frogfish's immune system deal with the healing. So, no over-feedings, regular water changes, and consistent water quality parameters.
It's really an issue that hasn't been studied. In correspondence with Dr. McCosker of the Cal Academy of Science in SF, he stated:
"I do recall that specimens of Antennariius avalonis and A. sanguineus from Baja lived several years in the Aquarium, and it stands to reason "“ once they became established in the collection they were fed every day and received appropriate medication if that ever became necessary. And of course we didn't put them in displays that had potential predators. So, if well kept, it's probably safe to say that they could probably live longer in an aquarium than in the wild. But I don't know if those data exist."
Discussions with Dr. Pietsch (the Dr. Frogfish!) led to this tidbit:
"About longevity in the wild, I have no idea. Don't think anyone has studied age and growth in any frogfish. From my experience also, a year is about the longest life span in captivity.
IMHO, I think that frogfishes can live a long lifespan. The tragedy in captive culture is that many add a frogfish to their system as an afterthought. They deserve a species tank and, realistically, should be stocked one to a tank. That doesn't lead to a very attractive aquarium.
I have had some froggies live for over 5 years but have also had some live for only a few months. It is embarrassing but many times, in my haste to get another cool froggy, I've put the animal in a system not mature enough, or overstocked, or not taken the time to quarantine of dip. I've over-fed my anglers trying to impress visitors, I've put off water changes because of other commitments. Most of my anglers' premature deaths can be attributed to my errors.
I am of the philosophy that addition is often less desirable than subtraction. While I'm sure that seachem prime is a good product (having used it myself on occasion), you still end up with more chemicals in your system than if you place a catalytic carbon prefilter before your RO membrane. With that said, perhaps the impact of either method would have little bearing on the health of your frogfish.
I think that stable water quality will go a long way to frogfish longevity. Many have said that they do well in nano tanks, I disagree. Anglers are sloppy and gluttonous, and in captivity, have a tendency to be overfed. I've measured crazy nitrate levels in well-skimmed, frogfish tanks.
I've kept a 1" Antennatus tuberosus in a 3 gallon tank for a few years but the system also had a 30 gallon sump with an H&S 150-F2001 skimmer. In my book, its all about H2OQ!
Axolotl
New member
Wow!! Thank you. This guy is 8 inches but read they can reach 15" which leads me to believe that either they grow faster than any fish in the world or they live longer than 2 years. Im with you on water quality and believe that water changes are key to health and growth in ocean fishes. Im going to try my best to get this guy the best. He is currently in a 75 gallon by himself now with about 30 lbs of live rock i know i need twice this but i have about an inch of live sand and a large reef octopus skimmer running. There are a few corals but he has it all to himself. He already ate my midas blenny and i was wondering since he is soo big if there were larger feeder fish that you know of to use for this large angler? Maybe sailfin mollies? Do they get bigger? Larger goldfish but i hear they arent good as feeder fish? What about declawed crayfish? Any ideas?
uberfugu
New member
I find commerson's to be pretty bold and aggressive when it comes to feeding. I've never had an issue with weaning them onto thawed, frozen food. I would start with thawed silversides on a feeding stick. Just wiggle it in front the fish and see if it strikes.
If so, then you can start feeding other ocean-sourced items. I would try strips of squid, cod, mackerel. I usually use fresh fillets, slice them into strips and freeze. Just thaw what you need. With bony fish like mackerel, I do cut off the fins and remove any big bones. I know in the wild, frogfishes eat everything but I have young children so I'm used to taking out the inedible... it's a paternal thing.
You can even inject selcon or cyclopeeze or seaweed or vitamins into the food strips. Just remember that a varied, quality, marine-based diet is vastly superior to goldfish feeders, ghost shrimp, and/or SW-acclimated guppies or mollies.
If so, then you can start feeding other ocean-sourced items. I would try strips of squid, cod, mackerel. I usually use fresh fillets, slice them into strips and freeze. Just thaw what you need. With bony fish like mackerel, I do cut off the fins and remove any big bones. I know in the wild, frogfishes eat everything but I have young children so I'm used to taking out the inedible... it's a paternal thing.
You can even inject selcon or cyclopeeze or seaweed or vitamins into the food strips. Just remember that a varied, quality, marine-based diet is vastly superior to goldfish feeders, ghost shrimp, and/or SW-acclimated guppies or mollies.
Axolotl
New member
Thanks again. He ate a couple mollies tonight they were small about an inch and a half. Ya i was thinking of maybe stuffing the silversides with formula one or two if i can get him to eat dead stuff. I tried feeding him raw table shrimp on an airline tube and he just ran from it. Should i buy a feeding "stick"? Isnt that just a clear acrylic rod like used for liverock building? You think hobbylobby would have those?
Axolotl
New member
So i think he has crypto. At first it looked like it was part of his coloration and bumby skin and what not. But i noticed more recently to where its everywhere on him. So i guess its off to hypo now. He is in a 75 gallon reef tank so i gotta move him to a qt. Could i get away with a 29 gallon tall that i have sitting around or would he be too stressed? Im thinking a dark room no lights a hide for him. And how long should i keep him in the hypo i read 4 weeks after the last spot is seen. Reay dont want to lose this fish 
uberfugu
New member
A 29 would work. Do you have a filter with established bio-media? Probably want to monitor ammonia and nitrites.
Im thinking a dark room no lights a hide for him. And how long should i keep him in the hypo i read 4 weeks after the last spot is seen. Reay dont want to lose this fish
4 weeks or longer would be my recommended minimum.
I would put in some clean PVC tubes for it to hide in. You can use 4" elbows and connectors.
You could also try metronidazole.
Good luck.
Axolotl
New member
Hey. Ya i got the sponge filter with old media. Scooped him up in a one gallon pale (this was not easy) keeping him underwater the whole time this time. He hides back behind some 3" pvc i had laying around need to get 4" so he can go inside. Im thinking about dropping sg about .002 a day. He seems to be settling in and its dark in the walkin closet. Im monitoring ammonia now. Will keep posted. Thanks
hyperge
New member
After having them for 8 months in my species tank, I sold my pair of frogfishes (see my posts from the middle of 2013). They were perfectly healthy. However, I had some time issues and water quality worsened to a degree where I feared for the fish and decided to give them away, to sell my bigger tank and split the lifestock between the buyer and the then free smaller tank.
I fed very controlled, which I think is key to frogfish longevity in captivity. As noted earlier, they were held (as a pair) for 2-3 months at the LFS before I brought them home to my species tank. That's nearly a year in captivity for a frogfish pair without any issues, in a nano tank of 20 gallons . Would have been interesting to follow on, but I try to keep in touch with their new owner.
I fed very controlled, which I think is key to frogfish longevity in captivity. As noted earlier, they were held (as a pair) for 2-3 months at the LFS before I brought them home to my species tank. That's nearly a year in captivity for a frogfish pair without any issues, in a nano tank of 20 gallons . Would have been interesting to follow on, but I try to keep in touch with their new owner.
uberfugu
New member
uberfugu
New member
Sorry, I didn't mean to come across so harshly. I have seen so many mishaps with mixing anglers and other fishes (including conspecifics). Aside from the fact that frogfish are expensive, they have quite dynamic personalities and seem to have a intelligence that I find endearing.
To get to the point, I strongly recommend a frogfish be kept solo.
Just my two cents.
To get to the point, I strongly recommend a frogfish be kept solo.
Just my two cents.
Biotopes
New member
No it's fine! I get what you meant.
I was thinking something along the lines of lion fish, snowflake/chestnut eels and anglers, not sure on how to mix them, or if it's possible to do safely. Would a larger lion fish (6-8 inches) and a smaller anglerfish (3-4 inches) do well? Or would it still be best to keep them separate?
I was thinking something along the lines of lion fish, snowflake/chestnut eels and anglers, not sure on how to mix them, or if it's possible to do safely. Would a larger lion fish (6-8 inches) and a smaller anglerfish (3-4 inches) do well? Or would it still be best to keep them separate?
Hey guys. I bought an A. Maculatus a week ago and I had it in a breeder box. So far so good, but after a couple of days it escaped and ate my tailspot blenny, which was the same lenght as the frogfish.
How do I see if the frogfish will be OK? Are there any signs that I should be aware of? What should I look for? I havent tried feeding it since the blenny was a big meal, and I think I should wait a few more days before I try and feed it.
How do I see if the frogfish will be OK? Are there any signs that I should be aware of? What should I look for? I havent tried feeding it since the blenny was a big meal, and I think I should wait a few more days before I try and feed it.
uberfugu
New member
Frogfishes often eat prey items their own size and larger. I've previously posted about a Lohpiocharon eating a Rhinopias that was much large than itself and suffering no ill affects. We've all seen pictures of anglers trying to eat larger animals and getting them stuck, often with death as a result.
I think that your warskin would be fine. I would just not feed him for a week or so.
I try to feed mine smaller sized food. No scientific basis. Just that I could probably shove a whole Big Mac down my throat but I digest better if I eat it smaler bites.
I think that your warskin would be fine. I would just not feed him for a week or so.
I try to feed mine smaller sized food. No scientific basis. Just that I could probably shove a whole Big Mac down my throat but I digest better if I eat it smaler bites.
Thanks for the reply. I kinda got worried after reading about overfeeding and what not.
I have another problem though. Ill be going on a vacation next month, and ill be away for 3 weeks. How can I solve this? Throw in a bunch of fish and hope he doesnt eat them all at once. Ive noticed that after a big meal, the frogfish tends to stick to one spot for a few days before becoming more active.
I have another problem though. Ill be going on a vacation next month, and ill be away for 3 weeks. How can I solve this? Throw in a bunch of fish and hope he doesnt eat them all at once. Ive noticed that after a big meal, the frogfish tends to stick to one spot for a few days before becoming more active.
