The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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Ok so I discovered something tonight that may help you guys with the back and forth problems.

Because the rigid tube isn't glued into the flexibe airline, after a time it (the rigid tube) may work itself out a bit. Just enough to possibly cause a wobble or out far enough that the prop will start hitting the stopper and get stuck. If you take it out and push the rigid tube all the way back in then run a bead of superglue around the rigid tube and the flex airtline should take care of it.

Hope that will help some.

D.
 
i always glue my tubes together, so that was the cause of the popping out issue. Whats weird is this, on one mj1200 using a 1.75 dumas prop everything worked perfect, now with that same mj1200 and everything else the same but using another 1.75 dumas prop, just a new one i had lying around, i found that the mj would start spitting the prop and wouldnt start and run proper. but when i would switch to the first prop, also a new one, all was well again.

so maybe someone should buy a prop balancing kit and see if that helps any. might have to get one after some one is the test dummy

Tim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7154530#post7154530 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen


Because the rigid tube isn't glued into the flexibe airline, after a time it (the rigid tube) may work itself out a bit. Just enough to possibly cause a wobble or out far enough that the prop will start hitting the stopper and get stuck. If you take it out and push the rigid tube all the way back in then run a bead of superglue around the rigid tube and the flex airtline should take care of it.

Hope that will help some.

D.

I have been gluing my tubes . I will try without .

can i ask why we wouldn't want to glue them together ?

have you also had issues with the small orange octuras wanting to start in the wrong direction ?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7155372#post7155372 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zapata41
i always glue my tubes together, so that was the cause of the popping out issue. Whats weird is this, on one mj1200 using a 1.75 dumas prop everything worked perfect, now with that same mj1200 and everything else the same but using another 1.75 dumas prop, just a new one i had lying around, i found that the mj would start spitting the prop and wouldnt start and run proper. but when i would switch to the first prop, also a new one, all was well again.

so maybe someone should buy a prop balancing kit and see if that helps any. might have to get one after some one is the test dummy

Tim

No I meant that if you DIDN'T glue your rigid tubeing to the flexi airline like I did then there is a possibility that it may work itself loose causing the rigid tube to slide lightly forward.

I do have a cheap prop balancer but it's kinda a PITA to balance a prop. It does help the performance though by balancing the prop also makes it quieter as well. If you do try it be sure to use fine grit (like 400 or 600) sand paper and I found those disposable nail files very useful also. It takes some time a patience to balance a prop.



D.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7155841#post7155841 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Snarkys
I have been gluing my tubes . I will try without .

can i ask why we wouldn't want to glue them together ?

have you also had issues with the small orange octuras wanting to start in the wrong direction ?


No I meant that if you DIDN'T glue your rigid tubeing to the flexi airline like I did then there is a possibility that it may work itself loose causing the rigid tube to slide lightly forward.


I have found that some pumps especially older ones will have a tough time spinning the orange (2035) Octuras but as far as reversed spinning no.


D.
 
some would not start without help for instance and also some will clatter back and forth and not spin properly. But if you CAN get your MJ to spin the 2035 prop man o man does it move water.
 
Do your mods make noise when they are OUT of the water? Mine makes a huge racket when out of the water, but gets pretty quiet when I put it inside the tank. Is that normal, or is mine not centered properly?

BTW - When out of the water it looks like the impeller/magnet is flying all over the place. It's not hitting the stopper, but it's jumping around like crazy within the houseing...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7156765#post7156765 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jon770
Do your mods make noise when they are OUT of the water? Mine makes a huge racket when out of the water, but gets pretty quiet when I put it inside the tank. Is that normal, or is mine not centered properly?

BTW - When out of the water it looks like the impeller/magnet is flying all over the place. It's not hitting the stopper, but it's jumping around like crazy within the houseing...


Yes. When out of water it will be very noisey and that is normal.
 
dhnguyen wrote:
The shroud:
Schedule 80 1.5" PVC pipe (dark gray if you order from mcmaster.com) for the 1.25" up to 1.4" propellers

1.5" slip coupling for the larger 1.75" Dumas propeller

The propellers:

1.38" Octura 2035 or 1435

1.57" Octura 1440 or 1240

1.75" Dumas

I should use a 1.5" slip coupling for an Octura 1440?
 
My MJ1200 kept ripping the flex airline in half. I ended up using thick wall airline from Lowe's instead. I think it wobbles less when you use that stuff.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7156783#post7156783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
Yes. When out of water it will be very noisey and that is normal.

hmm. are you sure dahn? mine is very quiet out of water.. just a slight hum of the motor/prop spinning.

also.. ive found that if you dont glue the part of the flex line tubing to the the hard tubing, that the hard tubing will actually start to spin with the shaft, which cuts down performance, and ups the noise alot, and adds to the "wobbling"

i dabbed a little ca glue on there, and it became twice as quiet and twice as strong, at least with the 2040 prop im using.
 
The 2035 and 1435's I used all were noisey out of water. Strange thing is the Nitro Hammer was very quiet out of water but noisier than the Octuras once submersed.


D.
 
maybe your idea and my idea of noisey are different :p

especially when i first started this mod.. until i got is centered and glued, it was quite noisy, now not so bad.. especially in the water.. no more noisey then id expect it to be.
 
Try using the hagen/aquaclears, as they run silent ;).

I have been messing about for the last 48hrs trying to get a Maxi jet mod to work how I want it to & in comparison to the Maxie's it's a doddle (TRUST Hahnmiester ;) )

I am having trouble sourcing the 901 over here.

I am going to try some 402's next for the underflow system, as since trying these AQ's I'm that impressed that the Maxie's are history in my set up, for these reasons IMO & E "so far" -.-

1. No need for all the extra work -

A. no cross brace needed

B. No centering of shaft required (just make sure the prop mag alignment is true & straight) as the self center.

C. no special work involved in the attaching the housing to the PH seeing as a pipe I have access to fit's flush over the original strainer (once cut back)

2. Noise!, I have a CNC made Maxi mod (very impressive BTW) & in comparison to the AQ it's terrible, even with the smallest pump running it (MJ150 - BTW) & the big 802 is silent, so I'm assuming the smaller models will also be so. (not that the Maxi is loud, just in comparison)

The 802 I converted is still running sweet & silent & has been to a few friends for testing & it always reverses it self, though I need to get a reverse prop of the same make to try, as stated they tend to start in reverse 4 out of 5 times.

I have noticed that if you make the housing "belled" rather than straight, in order to leave free room around the propeller it make the flow a lot more gentle (not restricted) due to the lack of back pressure I assume.

I'll explain a bit further if you will indulge me -

On the straight pipe guards I have made the force of water ejected will literally come out of the nozzle/output even when slightly out of the water, whereas the one with the "belled" housing won't, it just pushes over the sides in a fast gush/trickle rather than a jet [more stream like than a stream].

Further test & conclusion -

When you bring your fingers in to close proximity to the out let of the straight housings the flow becomes more focused & powerfully/aggressive.

Where as when I do the same with the "belled" housing the flow will stay calm & gentle to the point that it can divert the flow through the front vents/inlets (only if the inlets extend beyond the propeller that is).

This thing is so good (sorry to blow my own trumpet & all) that all 3 places I have taken it for testing (including a reputable lfs) are wanting to sack their Tunzes.

What gives?, has Tunze had it's last curtain call?, only if we can be bothered to DIY :)

Now, where to get a prop balancer.

Hope this is helpful info to some of you ;)
 
ive been messing with the 402 with very limited success. brand new 402 start up power is not their. it seems very sensitive to shaft dia. and length. i want big strems to put on a timers and the 402 has not worked that good for me. i pick up a 802 yesterday i wish i could find props localy, sometimes i hate waiting.

Frunkster
the 901 are now also called 110 maybe that helps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7156621#post7156621 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
some would not start without help for instance and also some will clatter back and forth and not spin properly. But if you CAN get your MJ to spin the 2035 prop man o man does it move water.

That solved my problem, I was using the 2035, and a new mj1200, it wouldnt spin it consitently, I swapped it to a 1235, and all is good. Thanks :)
 
Has anybody found a "premade" piece that fits on the Aquaclear mods the way the 1.5" testcap does on the Maxijets ?

I've got some testcaps and sink tailpieces but they don't fit my aquaclears... just my Maxi's...
 
Lets just break down and all go in on an injection mold so we can make our own shrouds for peanuts. They usually go about $10,000. I'll kick in a few bucks, now we just need another 1,999 people to pony up.
 
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