The Iwagumi Reef
- Thread starter yano
- Start date
yano
New member
Sorry, last photos was very large and I´ve exceed my bandwidth limit of this month (I´ve a free account in photobucket)....I think that in a few days will be visible.
iced98lx
New member
Going here: http://s850.photobucket.com/user/yanoreef/media/IMG_1909_redimensionar_zps7e80dfbc.png.html might help, great looking system!
yano
New member
dtum
New member
This is one great looking reef, very inspirational. Really liking your room design as well.
Why did you get rid of chromis and how did you manage to do it? I guess with your design you can easily get all of the pieces out.
More importantly, I want to understand your lighting a bit better. Would appreciate a detailed answer on the following questions:
Do you do any colour adjustment of your photos for white balance? Your reds are spectacular? I got an 8 bulb T5 fixture and my reds are a lot more brownish / brick colour.
If you were limited to an 8 bulb fixture but wanted to reproduce the same colour as what you have now, what would be your bulb combo?
What's the colour of your aquarium when all the lights are on?
Whenever I add even one KZ fiji to my mix my colour seems to be too pink. I really like your colour - you get a very close approximation of a daylight - nice crips whites with a great rendition of coral coloration. Is that what it is like in real life for you?
Much appreciated.
Why did you get rid of chromis and how did you manage to do it? I guess with your design you can easily get all of the pieces out.
More importantly, I want to understand your lighting a bit better. Would appreciate a detailed answer on the following questions:
Do you do any colour adjustment of your photos for white balance? Your reds are spectacular? I got an 8 bulb T5 fixture and my reds are a lot more brownish / brick colour.
If you were limited to an 8 bulb fixture but wanted to reproduce the same colour as what you have now, what would be your bulb combo?
What's the colour of your aquarium when all the lights are on?
Whenever I add even one KZ fiji to my mix my colour seems to be too pink. I really like your colour - you get a very close approximation of a daylight - nice crips whites with a great rendition of coral coloration. Is that what it is like in real life for you?
Much appreciated.
usingthejohn
New member
Beautiful tank. It makes me want to redo my aquascape
dtum
New member
Speaking of 8 bulb combo that would mimic yours this is what I have come up with:
Font to Back (I am using a mixture of both KZ and ATI bulbs in ATI Sunpower fixture)
KZ NG
ATI Aquablue Special
KZ Superblue
KZ Fiji
ATI Coral+
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Coral+
I've put this together and unfortunately it looks very purple to my eyes, not sure as to why yet.
Font to Back (I am using a mixture of both KZ and ATI bulbs in ATI Sunpower fixture)
KZ NG
ATI Aquablue Special
KZ Superblue
KZ Fiji
ATI Coral+
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Coral+
I've put this together and unfortunately it looks very purple to my eyes, not sure as to why yet.
yano
New member
Thanks for your comments! 
I like to get a white and natural coloring in my tanks. In USA, and lately also in Europe, spectra used are generally much bluer than mine....in my opinion, this may highlight some colors like blue or neon, but it others are lost as the rose.
Of course, also tried my photos really reflect the most possible the aquarium lighting and coloring of the pieces ... for it, play with the white balance (the cameras always offer a more bluish picture of what is perceived by the human eye).
If I wanted to get a similar spectrum to mine with only 8 tubes would use this combination:
- 2 blue tubes (KZ superblue or ATI Blue+).
- 1 Fidji Purple.
- 5 white tubes 10000K (KZ Coral light or ATI Aquablue Special)
If you use blue-white tubes (KZ New Generation ATI or coral +.....the Coral+ I do not like) instead of pure white tubes (KZ coral light), then you should use only 1 blue tube (Superblue or Blue+).
I like to get a white and natural coloring in my tanks. In USA, and lately also in Europe, spectra used are generally much bluer than mine....in my opinion, this may highlight some colors like blue or neon, but it others are lost as the rose.
Of course, also tried my photos really reflect the most possible the aquarium lighting and coloring of the pieces ... for it, play with the white balance (the cameras always offer a more bluish picture of what is perceived by the human eye).
If I wanted to get a similar spectrum to mine with only 8 tubes would use this combination:
- 2 blue tubes (KZ superblue or ATI Blue+).
- 1 Fidji Purple.
- 5 white tubes 10000K (KZ Coral light or ATI Aquablue Special)
If you use blue-white tubes (KZ New Generation ATI or coral +.....the Coral+ I do not like) instead of pure white tubes (KZ coral light), then you should use only 1 blue tube (Superblue or Blue+).
yano
New member
I introduced the Chromis because I thought I needed more organic load to combat cyano, when in fact the origin of this were a deionization resins wrong in the post filter of osmosis... after correct this and eliminate cyano, I´ve preferred to go back to what I like : the microgobies. The chromis are not good companion for them...are competitors for food too greedy.
In my aquarium is not difficult to catch any fish, but I must say that the chromis they put me hard and I had to remove some rocks to catch them all.
yano
New member
dude your sand makes me feel sick!
HOW?
Jajaja, there is no secret to this, just a high quality water (low in nutrients, but without causing any depletion or biological imbalance in the aquarium).
JPMagyar
New member
Yano,
How did you test this? Was the resin ended or did it have bad chemicals?
Thanks,
Joe
Dugless
New member
I've had a much easier time keeping a clean white sand bed in years past when using very fine sugar sandbeds. There is less visible surface area on each grain of sand to grow algaes like the crushed aragonites most of us use. The downfall is keeping the fine sands from blowing everywhere.
yano
New member
I suspect that there was an error and resins were not right.
Reviewing the pictures of my aquarium and the diary where I write values and changes like resins, membrane, tubes, lighting, etc. I discovered that the first photos with signs of cyano were taken just a couple of months after changing resins, so I decided to change it and in a month the cyano began to disappear.
yano
New member
Not, currently only add P.Xtra and perhaps soon begin feeding corals with coral vitalizer.... apart from that, only use to add the basics Seachem (kh and calcium) and Tropic Marin (magnesium) and Brightwell for other elements (iodine, iron and potassium).
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