SantaMonica
Well-known member
I think more auto top offs are being made for nano's nowadays. But fortunately the (mostly) closed tops of nano's keeps evap to a minimum.
The Nano Reefs DIY thread...
- Thread starter Agu
- Start date
Dripdrop123
New member
I'm made a hospital tank out of off one of my uncles old filtration tanks and a pile of PVC I've already got it hooked up, it's in the cabinet under a 28g nano cube but anyone got any idea of what light to buy
You can use the eshopps nano overflow box in the last chamber in a biocube for a sump and connect the pump back up and connect to the jet that the small powerhead was on originally. You just have to cut the plastic a little to make it fit. There's a video on youtube on it. If you type in "eshopps nano overflow" it should come up.
Jblank44
New member
Here is my DIY for an overflow and display refugium for my 3.4g pico
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2329600
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2329600
I would highly suggest a DIY air powered ATO. Now that mine's running, I couldn't imagine doing it any other way. With the air pump, I'm never going to ruin a pump by running my reservoir dry.
Parts list for mine:
float switch(es): $5
12v relay from Radio Shack: $10
project box from Radio Shack: $3
air pump from Petco: $10
misc: FW reservoir, airline tubing, wire, super glue, mounting bracket for float switch
Key benefits:
-low cost.
-easy to find parts: I was able to get everything locally
-reliable, though component based, so easy to replace components
-runs on 12v, not 120v like other DIY ATO's
-no possibility of ruining your pump by running reservoir dry as mentioned above
This is not my design or original by any means. I did struggle to find build instructions 'tho when I went to make mine. There are several people who post the parts but don't list instructions (like I just did :twitch: ). So if anybody would like me to, let me know.
Irongills
New member
Yeah, build instructions would be great. I've got awful evaporation and have gotten close to running it dry a couple times because I lacked a jug of RO/DI water laying around.
Ok, I will post detailed instructions tomorrow.
Air Powered ATO
Air Powered ATO
OK... I would be pretty disappointed if I looked at these instructions to learn how to do a DIY project. I couldn't take very good pictures because everything's assembled and zip-tie'd in. This would have been better to write up DURING the build. Anyways..
Parts:
- Air powered pump from Petco
- Relay from Radio Shack
- 12v power supply
- Reservoir: I found a great 3 gallon drinking water jug at the grocery by the water refill machine. You could use a Gatorade bottle or something, but you'd need to refill more often.
- bracket for float switch(es)
- airline tubing
- rigid airline tubing
- Super glue or silicone or both
- Project box
- OPTIONAL misc items: clamp on airline valve to secure output of airline tubing to tank, shrink tube and solder for any splices if you don't want to use wire nuts, extension cord if you don't want to cut your air pump's power cord. Socket for your relay if you'd prefer to use screw terminals on your electrical connections.
Put simply, this ATO uses the air pump to force air into an airtight reservoir which forces water out of another piece of airline tubing running to your tank.
Steps:
Electrical:
notes: You're using the 12v relay and power supply simply to keep 120v out of your tank. You will have to cut your air pump's power cord. If you'd rather not void your $10 Petco air pump, you could always use a cheap $2 extension cord to cut into.
1) Take the power cord for your air pump (or extension cord) and cut ONE wire. Peel a couple inches back on each side and strip back a bit of the jacket. These exposed ends plug into pins 4 and 6 on your relay. The order doesn't matter. I soldered my wires to the relay pins. In retrospect, I would have definitely grabbed a few female wire connectors and used those. Much easier.
2) Take the wire from your float switches and make connections to 12 volt power supply and pins 7 and 8 on the relay. You can use 1 float switch or 20. Doesn't matter. I won't get into details on how many float switches you want to use for safety or redundancy or the best way to wire them. There's a lot of info on that here about wiring float switches. My diagram shows 2 float switches. You may need to extend your float switch wiring down to your relay. If you do, use whatever wire you're comfortable with to extend it. I used an old plug in wire you would find on the back of a VCR or something. I suggest using shrink tubing and soldering your splices for safety.
Both power supplies will be plugged in and left plugged in. The signal from the float switches activate the relay which converts the 12v to 120v, activating the air pump. Stuff your relay into a project box, tidy your wires, and be done with it.
Hand drawn diagram below:
Tubing and reservoir:
1) Take the tight fitting lid of your reservoir/container and drill 2 holes just a bit smaller than your rigid airline tubing. Cut one short piece, about 4", then the other longer one to reach to the bottom of your reservoir with about 2" left to come out of the top. Push the tubing through the holes you drilled. I suggest Super gluing the tubes in place AND siliconing them for maximum airtightness. The air pump output tubing goes onto the shorter tube on the lid. Run another piece of soft airline tube from the longer piece of rigid tubing on the lid up to the tank. I used the clamp on airline valve shown in the pic below, which I found in the FW section of my LFS. This piece basically keeps the tubing out of the water to eliminate the possibility of a syphon.
notes: this $10 Petco air pump easily pumps the 4 ft from my reservoir to my tank. If you have a lot further to go, you may want to splurge on a $15 pump
I would also suggest letting the silicone or caulk dry until firm and dry. I made the mistake of being impatient and got it wet while it was soft.
Float switch bracket:
I won't get into a ton of detail on this. You can buy one, make one, or maybe you have one lying around. If you need to make one, run to your local store that sells acrylic, snap off a couple pieces, and shape them as needed for your tank and float switches with a lighter or other heat source. You should really try to make this thing adjustable.
Couple more comments..
There are a lot of ways you can splash/snail proof your float switch(es). Pill bottle, 35mm film canister, pvc end caps. I used pvc end caps and drilled a bunch of little holes so water can flow through. I find that this setup is perfect in terms of the system coming on and off. It's not constantly switching on and off.
Also, this is a GREAT setup if you ever want to does KALK. No pump comes into contact with the water and you have an easy jug to work with and clean out if necessary.
Good luck and enjoy. Let me know if anything needs clarification.
Air Powered ATO
OK... I would be pretty disappointed if I looked at these instructions to learn how to do a DIY project. I couldn't take very good pictures because everything's assembled and zip-tie'd in. This would have been better to write up DURING the build. Anyways..
Parts:
- Air powered pump from Petco
- Relay from Radio Shack
- 12v power supply
- Reservoir: I found a great 3 gallon drinking water jug at the grocery by the water refill machine. You could use a Gatorade bottle or something, but you'd need to refill more often.
- bracket for float switch(es)
- airline tubing
- rigid airline tubing
- Super glue or silicone or both
- Project box
- OPTIONAL misc items: clamp on airline valve to secure output of airline tubing to tank, shrink tube and solder for any splices if you don't want to use wire nuts, extension cord if you don't want to cut your air pump's power cord. Socket for your relay if you'd prefer to use screw terminals on your electrical connections.
Put simply, this ATO uses the air pump to force air into an airtight reservoir which forces water out of another piece of airline tubing running to your tank.
Steps:
Electrical:
notes: You're using the 12v relay and power supply simply to keep 120v out of your tank. You will have to cut your air pump's power cord. If you'd rather not void your $10 Petco air pump, you could always use a cheap $2 extension cord to cut into.
1) Take the power cord for your air pump (or extension cord) and cut ONE wire. Peel a couple inches back on each side and strip back a bit of the jacket. These exposed ends plug into pins 4 and 6 on your relay. The order doesn't matter. I soldered my wires to the relay pins. In retrospect, I would have definitely grabbed a few female wire connectors and used those. Much easier.
2) Take the wire from your float switches and make connections to 12 volt power supply and pins 7 and 8 on the relay. You can use 1 float switch or 20. Doesn't matter. I won't get into details on how many float switches you want to use for safety or redundancy or the best way to wire them. There's a lot of info on that here about wiring float switches. My diagram shows 2 float switches. You may need to extend your float switch wiring down to your relay. If you do, use whatever wire you're comfortable with to extend it. I used an old plug in wire you would find on the back of a VCR or something. I suggest using shrink tubing and soldering your splices for safety.
Both power supplies will be plugged in and left plugged in. The signal from the float switches activate the relay which converts the 12v to 120v, activating the air pump. Stuff your relay into a project box, tidy your wires, and be done with it.
Hand drawn diagram below:
Tubing and reservoir:
1) Take the tight fitting lid of your reservoir/container and drill 2 holes just a bit smaller than your rigid airline tubing. Cut one short piece, about 4", then the other longer one to reach to the bottom of your reservoir with about 2" left to come out of the top. Push the tubing through the holes you drilled. I suggest Super gluing the tubes in place AND siliconing them for maximum airtightness. The air pump output tubing goes onto the shorter tube on the lid. Run another piece of soft airline tube from the longer piece of rigid tubing on the lid up to the tank. I used the clamp on airline valve shown in the pic below, which I found in the FW section of my LFS. This piece basically keeps the tubing out of the water to eliminate the possibility of a syphon.
notes: this $10 Petco air pump easily pumps the 4 ft from my reservoir to my tank. If you have a lot further to go, you may want to splurge on a $15 pump
I would also suggest letting the silicone or caulk dry until firm and dry. I made the mistake of being impatient and got it wet while it was soft.
Float switch bracket:
I won't get into a ton of detail on this. You can buy one, make one, or maybe you have one lying around. If you need to make one, run to your local store that sells acrylic, snap off a couple pieces, and shape them as needed for your tank and float switches with a lighter or other heat source. You should really try to make this thing adjustable.
Couple more comments..
There are a lot of ways you can splash/snail proof your float switch(es). Pill bottle, 35mm film canister, pvc end caps. I used pvc end caps and drilled a bunch of little holes so water can flow through. I find that this setup is perfect in terms of the system coming on and off. It's not constantly switching on and off.
Also, this is a GREAT setup if you ever want to does KALK. No pump comes into contact with the water and you have an easy jug to work with and clean out if necessary.
Good luck and enjoy. Let me know if anything needs clarification.
Last edited:
Jblank44
New member
Look above at mine, very easy and VERY reliable
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Have not seen an air ato in a long time.
truthdesigns
New member
Anyone seen a hob algae scrubber?
Thanks.
donlocke65
New member
Bad links
Bad links
Just joined,looking at diy nano getting a lot of bad or old posts ,what's going on?
Bad links
Just joined,looking at diy nano getting a lot of bad or old posts ,what's going on?
Uhhh, well you just posted in a 1+ year old thread...
amygdala17
New member
In his defense, it _is_ sticky.
GOINGBROKEFAST
New member
This is a very helpful thread...
acropora213
Tenured Stick Grower
10gal nano: what is best as a base
10gal nano: what is best as a base
To be more cost effective, most like instead of a stand, although I may want a sump underneath , I heard you can use a simple small base.
Not sure of $200 for a 2' high stand.
Thanks guys. ~Tony
10gal nano: what is best as a base
To be more cost effective, most like instead of a stand, although I may want a sump underneath , I heard you can use a simple small base.
Not sure of $200 for a 2' high stand.
Thanks guys. ~Tony
IM Nuvo Fusion 20 Media Basket
IM Nuvo Fusion 20 Media Basket
The stock media baskets are often bad. Aftermarket media baskets are unnecessary expensive. I went lab and built mine which costs around $10 (for two).
You need Acrylic sheets, I used leftover pieces in the lab. But if you go with the thinnest one, you can get one $5 dollars in Home Depot or Loews. Also need crazy glue (a few dollars) or aquarium safe silicon.
Preferably use a nice thin saw (I used upright bandsaw which made process a lot easy). You need some kind off drill for holes (I used hand drills).
Those are the final products
They fit chamber very nice. I think gap is less then 1/16" for all side so high water flow is guarantee.
IM Nuvo Fusion 20 Media Basket
The stock media baskets are often bad. Aftermarket media baskets are unnecessary expensive. I went lab and built mine which costs around $10 (for two).
You need Acrylic sheets, I used leftover pieces in the lab. But if you go with the thinnest one, you can get one $5 dollars in Home Depot or Loews. Also need crazy glue (a few dollars) or aquarium safe silicon.
Preferably use a nice thin saw (I used upright bandsaw which made process a lot easy). You need some kind off drill for holes (I used hand drills).
Those are the final products
They fit chamber very nice. I think gap is less then 1/16" for all side so high water flow is guarantee.
