BumpinTJ24
In Memoriam
i've seen some return plumbing with a JACO fitting drilled and tapped to the tank return and fed that way...that's what i plan on doing with mine.
The Reactor Projects (graphic Intensive)
- Thread starter TAMU Reef
- Start date
Mangas8282
New member
I am pretty much going through the same thing as you. Today I ordered the acrylic tubing, which after posting here and talking to 2 seperate companies, I finally found out that 4.5" OD acrylic tubing fits 4" shcedule 40 PVC fittings. *** big note for anyone doing this project. I am going to use an aqualifter pump with a ebay float valve to feed the thing, which I will modify if need be. We will see how this all pans out...........
1234
New member
Tamu -
Just now saw this port -
That first piece of acrylic looks like it's extruded and not cast. Extruded will not machine very well but is work able. If you can stay with cast acrylic. cost more but will stand up better, eaiser to machine.
If you will be make more acrylic pieces - then the pattern method will work here for you. What you are doing is "the hard" way.
On that circle cutter, turn the bit around so you have the "flat on the good side". If you make patterns out of MDF to the correct size of tube that you will be making things out of then this will help. With the pattern, all you need is a router with a trim bit on it and you can make flanges and lid that fit and are the same size and will just take a couple of minutes to make.
hth
Just now saw this port -
That first piece of acrylic looks like it's extruded and not cast. Extruded will not machine very well but is work able. If you can stay with cast acrylic. cost more but will stand up better, eaiser to machine.
If you will be make more acrylic pieces - then the pattern method will work here for you. What you are doing is "the hard" way.
On that circle cutter, turn the bit around so you have the "flat on the good side". If you make patterns out of MDF to the correct size of tube that you will be making things out of then this will help. With the pattern, all you need is a router with a trim bit on it and you can make flanges and lid that fit and are the same size and will just take a couple of minutes to make.
hth
TAMU Reef
New member
hth,
The plastic wrap was still on the acrylic is the reason it looks so bad and I was scratiching it up pretty bad. You are also right in saying that it only takes me a few seconds to make the new flanges. All I needed was a pattern / distance from the router to start off with. I went the long way around, but thanks to you guys have come around.
Everyone else:
I have received the neoprene, knurled nylon screws, 1/2" tap, and maxi-jet 400 today in the mail. I will be moving forward with the project this weekend. I will be drilling / threading the flanges for the screws, cutting the neoprene, gluing the flanges, and start on plumbing the pump to the Kalk Reactor (which I still need some minor PVC parts I can pick up at the Depot). I will keep you informed of the progress.
TAMU Reef
The plastic wrap was still on the acrylic is the reason it looks so bad and I was scratiching it up pretty bad. You are also right in saying that it only takes me a few seconds to make the new flanges. All I needed was a pattern / distance from the router to start off with. I went the long way around, but thanks to you guys have come around.
Everyone else:
I have received the neoprene, knurled nylon screws, 1/2" tap, and maxi-jet 400 today in the mail. I will be moving forward with the project this weekend. I will be drilling / threading the flanges for the screws, cutting the neoprene, gluing the flanges, and start on plumbing the pump to the Kalk Reactor (which I still need some minor PVC parts I can pick up at the Depot). I will keep you informed of the progress.
TAMU Reef
TAMU Reef
New member
Ok guys made some more progress today with all the parts I ordered online:
After making the flanges I made a template using Microsoft Powerpoint (because it is easy to set diameters and lengths) and then put these below my acrylic. I lined up the holes with a marker on top because the acrylic distorts the image.
Then I used the markers to line up with the drill press and cut my holes (drill bit was sized for a tap for the 1/4" Knurled Nylon Screw). I drilled both flanges to line up the holes at the same time.
Then I used the 1/4" tap for the screws on the bottom part of the top flange and then enlarged the holes on the top part of the top flange to fit the screw through.
Then it was time for the neoprene. Using the lower flange I drew with a marker on the neoprene and cut out the flange with scissors.
I also used a handy hole punch to mark the location of the screws for the neoprene.
I then started back on the top of the Kalk reactor by drilling enlarged holes for the Knurled head to fit through using the drill press.
I was thinking of using the router to lengthen the holes for the screw to slide through. I also glued the bottom flange with the tapped screws in the acrylic today as well.
I will continue probably some more tomorrow.
Cya,
TAMU Reef
After making the flanges I made a template using Microsoft Powerpoint (because it is easy to set diameters and lengths) and then put these below my acrylic. I lined up the holes with a marker on top because the acrylic distorts the image.
Then I used the markers to line up with the drill press and cut my holes (drill bit was sized for a tap for the 1/4" Knurled Nylon Screw). I drilled both flanges to line up the holes at the same time.
Then I used the 1/4" tap for the screws on the bottom part of the top flange and then enlarged the holes on the top part of the top flange to fit the screw through.
Then it was time for the neoprene. Using the lower flange I drew with a marker on the neoprene and cut out the flange with scissors.
I also used a handy hole punch to mark the location of the screws for the neoprene.
I then started back on the top of the Kalk reactor by drilling enlarged holes for the Knurled head to fit through using the drill press.
I was thinking of using the router to lengthen the holes for the screw to slide through. I also glued the bottom flange with the tapped screws in the acrylic today as well.
I will continue probably some more tomorrow.
Cya,
TAMU Reef
TAMU Reef
New member
Ok guys I am finishing up the Kalk Reactor and here are the recent photos:
Glued both flanges together to the tube:
Here I am making some wedges to hold the tube that will run fresh water down to the bottom of the reactor:
I then drilled holes in the wedges to hold the tube and glued the wedges to the side of the reactor:
I started back on the top flange and drilled a hole in the middle to insert a PVC union:
I then drilled two more holes for the hoses, used a tap to thread the top, and screwed the quick connect flanges to the top:
I then started to focus on the pump connection attached are some of the PVC parts used to make my connections. I quickly found out that when using two PVC unions you need to allow for the space for each union. So I added a space pipe which you will see on the next picture below this one:
Beware!!!!! Put the Union flange on this above piece prior to gluing. I forgot them and had to break my connections and reattach them...... DOH!!!
I then lined up the pump flanges to the tube, marked my locations the flanges will be made up to the tube, drilled the holes, and started gluing the PVC union to the tube. This is where I am at today......
TAMU Reef
Glued both flanges together to the tube:
Here I am making some wedges to hold the tube that will run fresh water down to the bottom of the reactor:
I then drilled holes in the wedges to hold the tube and glued the wedges to the side of the reactor:
I started back on the top flange and drilled a hole in the middle to insert a PVC union:
I then drilled two more holes for the hoses, used a tap to thread the top, and screwed the quick connect flanges to the top:
I then started to focus on the pump connection attached are some of the PVC parts used to make my connections. I quickly found out that when using two PVC unions you need to allow for the space for each union. So I added a space pipe which you will see on the next picture below this one:
Beware!!!!! Put the Union flange on this above piece prior to gluing. I forgot them and had to break my connections and reattach them...... DOH!!!
I then lined up the pump flanges to the tube, marked my locations the flanges will be made up to the tube, drilled the holes, and started gluing the PVC union to the tube. This is where I am at today......
TAMU Reef
Mangas8282
New member
Another question, I assume that the PVC union on the top flange of the reactor is to add more CaOH as it is depleted, but if you were going to do that then why go through all the trouble of the whole top assembly when you could have just used one acrylic disc with the union in it and all the fittings for the tubing???
1234
New member
TAMU
Next time you are in HD - look in the plumbing section (isn't that where we all live) they have test plugs that are removable, just have a plastic lid, a screw in the middle to turn and enlarge a rubber gromet to seal off the fill hole, I used the 2" version and changed out the metal screw for a nylon one eaiser than the union.
Next time you are in HD - look in the plumbing section (isn't that where we all live) they have test plugs that are removable, just have a plastic lid, a screw in the middle to turn and enlarge a rubber gromet to seal off the fill hole, I used the 2" version and changed out the metal screw for a nylon one eaiser than the union.
captain7359
Active member
what does everyone like better for doing holes, forstner bits or hole saws. trying to figure what I should buy more of and I'm not sure what everyone prefers.
TroyPierce
New member
captain7359 said:
I think it depends on what you're doing, each has advantages. For acrylic, I'd think the hole saws would be best for larger sizes and SHARP spade bits for smaller sizes.
Hole saws don't have to remove as much material to cut a hole though the piece.
The Spade bits have an edge cutter that's nice.
Forstner bits can't be beat for drilling flat bottom holes (that don't go all the way thought the piece).
captain7359
Active member
i'm doing square designs for now so everything is flat. I figured spade bits would make a mess?? no.
TAMU Reef
New member
Right now I am having a major problem, maybe you guys can help me out. OF COURSE my top flange is leaking past the neoprene gasket. I have it tightened really good, but it still leaks???? I bought 1/8" Neoprene, but do I have to have a special Neoprene? The neoprene I bought is pretty rigid and doesnt have a lot of bend to it. Did I buy the wrong Neoprene? Is there a special neoprene to buy????
Thanks,
TAMU Reef
Thanks,
TAMU Reef
RichT
Moved On
There is softer neoprene. I got some for a calc. reactor and its pretty soft. What I planed to do is cut 1/4 x 1/4 strips with one edge beveled to a dull point. Then I was going to attach those in to the bottom of the lid with the bevel facing down. My theory is you will get far more pounds per square inch of sealing pressure at the end of the bevel creating a tighter seal then you would with a flat bottom lid. I was even considering installing a strip on the bottom flange facing upwards to create an even more focused pressure point. Or maybe a grove or channel directly opposite the beveled strip. I figured this was like an opposite O-ring. Focused pressure on the sealing material in a very small area creating a better seal. Of course you would want these rings or strips on the inside of the flange bolts which would effectively remove the sealing around the bolts from the picture. This is just a thought that I haven't tried yet. HTH.
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