TropTrea
New member
LD's and T-5's are a much better system that anything using MH's today. I actualy think in a few years MH's will be history.
The T5 Q&a Thread - split
- Thread starter eagle9252
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LD's and T-5's are a much better system that anything using MH's today. I actualy think in a few years MH's will be history.
TropTrea
New member
This thread is about the best if you go beck through the pages. The think is each manufacturer has there own data sheets which nicely compares there different bulbs.
But when you compare Brand X to Brand Y they are often putting out data to make there brand the most impressive. And this includes there spectrum charts which are only about 80% accurate.
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Not really. I will try to write something up though right now.
Actinic bulbs - meant to add low-end Violet light which will excite certain pigments and cause fluorescence. They have low PAR overall and I only ever recommend them if you have 6+ bulbs or don't need the PAR on a low-light system. They appear dim to the human eye.
Common bulbs: UVL Super Actinic, ATI True Actinic, Geisemann Pure Actinic.
(Others label them as 420nm once in a while but I recommend the bulbs I named above.)
Blue bulbs - Heavy in the blue light and utilized the most by the vast majority of corals we keep. These usually cover the Violet spectrum as well and are the reason that Actinics aren't as important any more. Blue is used a lot for coloration of corals. These have a ton of PAR and should be the staple in our fixtures.
Common bulbs: ATI Blue Plus, KZ Superblue, UVL 454, Geisemann Actinic Plus
(Others label these as 460nm most of the time.)
White/Daylight bulbs - There are some differing opinions of what is classified as a daylight bulb but my definition is simple: If it isn't blue or actinic, I consider it daylight. These are used to fill in the "rest" of the spectrum. Basically 500nm up to 700nm. They tend to have good PAR and loosely replicate noon day sun. They are used to brighten things up.
Common bulbs: GE 6500k, ATI Aquablue Special, ATI Coral Plus, ATI Purple Plus, KZ Coral Light, KZ New Gen, KZ Fiji Purple, Geisemann Midday, Geisemann Aquablue, Geisemann Lagoon Blue and Gesiemann AquaPink.
The pink and purple bulbs listed above could be considered "specialty" bulbs. They have a definitive pink/purple look to them. (Please don't confuse Purple and Violet as the same thing here. Purple is a mix of blue and red. Violet is its' very own color.)
They are generally used to "warm" things up but they also make certain pinks and reds look better. These should almost ALWAYS be positioned just front of center in your fixture. That way their spectrum is a little more spread out and the light strikes the viewing side of the corals. They are wasted if put in the front or rear slots.
That is a very quick run down and just meant to summarize things. Hope it helps.
FlyPenFly
SPS Killer
Actinics seem to really shine with deeper water corals such as chalices and even certain SPS. They bring out colors you won't get with any other bulb. They appear dimmer but they add significant energy that's low in a general purpose blue bulb.
I replaced my 6500k bulb with a purple plus and noticed 0 change in growth rates or calcium/alk demands. The tank though in general looks nicer because of the added focused spectrum. It is remarkable how much better the UVL actinic bulb is in PAR if it is in fact truly actinic.
This is taken from Manhattan Reefs:
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/equipment/89249-t5-bulb-pars.html
I replaced my 6500k bulb with a purple plus and noticed 0 change in growth rates or calcium/alk demands. The tank though in general looks nicer because of the added focused spectrum. It is remarkable how much better the UVL actinic bulb is in PAR if it is in fact truly actinic.
This is taken from Manhattan Reefs:
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/equipment/89249-t5-bulb-pars.html
TropTrea
New member
I'm running the GE 6,500K with a Purple plus on each side of it and the rest of the bulbs Blue Plus.
If it is too bright for you replace the GE with an Aqua Blue Special and one of the Purple Plus with a Blue Plus. Note two purple plus is too red for the Aqua Blue Special in my eye.
If you still want something with less blue then replace the none blue plus bulbs with coral plus bulbs.
As far as the whiteness is concerned consider the following.
1 GE 6500 +2 Purple Plus = 2 Aqua Blue Special + 1 purple Plus
1 Aqua Blue Special+1 Purple Plus + 2 Blue Plus= 4 Coral Plus
As far as Atinic bulbs are concerned they are mostly fillers when you have too many bulbs for your tank. They do make the florescens in the corals pop when there is no other light source on. But there lighting level is so low that any one other bulb will wash them out to the point of being unnoticable.
TropTrea
New member
Do not put all your marbles in the PAR nuumbers. The Par readings take a wide band width into consideration while only about half of those frequencies are used for photosybthesis in corals. The Greens and Yellows especialy are not used by corals yet will give higher meter readings.
As faras simular growth when swapping the GE for the Purple Plus it is understandable. The 6,500K produces limited light in the entire spectrum but the midle of that spectrum is only used for reflective color and some florescense rather than growth. The purple plus is strong in red and blue so it is boosting the blue part of the spectrum corals love.
Personaly I would not enjoy viewing a tank with out some broad spectrum lighting in it. The reflective colors would be extremly washed out.
FlyPenFly
SPS Killer
Yeah, I run
Blue+
Coral+
Blue+
Purple+
ATI Actinic
Blue+
Coral+
Blue+
On my setup.
I've been thinking about getting the Hagen GLO single T5HO fixtures with swivel tank mounts to mount perpendicular at the long edges of my tank running some actinic bulbs. I want to prevent some of the shading polyp death I'm getting on some SPS where the branches have really grown out.
Blue+
Coral+
Blue+
Purple+
ATI Actinic
Blue+
Coral+
Blue+
On my setup.
I've been thinking about getting the Hagen GLO single T5HO fixtures with swivel tank mounts to mount perpendicular at the long edges of my tank running some actinic bulbs. I want to prevent some of the shading polyp death I'm getting on some SPS where the branches have really grown out.
HurricaneSystem
Member
Fly,
I believe you change lighting about as much as I do. Well, almost, lol.
I believe you change lighting about as much as I do. Well, almost, lol.
FlyPenFly
SPS Killer
I have more than 1 tank
Last edited:
I am going back from LEDs to t5 ..... Need a little help got a ati sun power ati 6 bulb fixture
My is a 60 gallon with a 30 gal sump
Tank is 36x24x16
Predominantly sps and 15% LPS hammers , acans and brains. A few chalices.
What would've the best configuration from best colors and good growth? I'm thinking :
Blue plus
Aqua blue special
Blue plus
Kz purple
Blue plus
Blue plus
Or maybe an ati coral + in the mix
Can u guys advise me please I have always been halide tried radion gen 1 and the upgraded to the pro
Not getting results like you guys with t5 tanks.... So I'm throwing in the towel
Thank u
My is a 60 gallon with a 30 gal sump
Tank is 36x24x16
Predominantly sps and 15% LPS hammers , acans and brains. A few chalices.
What would've the best configuration from best colors and good growth? I'm thinking :
Blue plus
Aqua blue special
Blue plus
Kz purple
Blue plus
Blue plus
Or maybe an ati coral + in the mix
Can u guys advise me please I have always been halide tried radion gen 1 and the upgraded to the pro
Not getting results like you guys with t5 tanks.... So I'm throwing in the towel
Thank u
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
For high PAR I would go with 4 Blue and 2 Coral Plus.
For a little more pop but less PAR, try something like 3 Blue, 1 Actinic, 1 Purple and 1 Coral Plus. Again, you could use 2 Coral Plus here if wanted.
Michigan Mike
Freedom costs a buckofive
sounds like a good bulb lineup to me... coral plus if you want a bluer look, but using the ABS bulb will give you a broader spectrum (added 550nm) and a bit more of a natural appearance.
TropTrea
New member
Dependent on the particular corals your keeping and how much of there color is reflective bases florescent the combo you isted should be good with your SPS corals. If you want to boast your florescent color on the LPS corals at the expense of the reflective colors then swap out the Aqua Blue Special and the Purple for 2 Coral Plus bulbs.
YoungREEFA
New member
We need a sticky that suggests the most used and "best" over all configuration for all fixtures. A 4,6,8,10,and 12 combination.
We could do a 18-20K look
and a 10-15K look
Even though these are commonly found on the internet, it would be useful to be posted on the forum no?
We could do a 18-20K look
and a 10-15K look
Even though these are commonly found on the internet, it would be useful to be posted on the forum no?
Two questions
1) i want to upgrade my 48" retro t5 reflectors. I dont know the current reflectors(bought used) but know they are far from the best. Any suggestion on new reflectors?
2)I have been using 4-48" ati bulbs on a icecapp 660 ballast for two years(B+,P+,C+,B+).
Im tossing the idea of using 2-B+ and 2-C+ but think that might be too white.
I wouldnt mind a little bluer look. Should i go 3-B+ 1-C+? or should i keep the P+ and lose the C+?
Any suggestions on bulb combo?
1) i want to upgrade my 48" retro t5 reflectors. I dont know the current reflectors(bought used) but know they are far from the best. Any suggestion on new reflectors?
2)I have been using 4-48" ati bulbs on a icecapp 660 ballast for two years(B+,P+,C+,B+).
Im tossing the idea of using 2-B+ and 2-C+ but think that might be too white.
I wouldnt mind a little bluer look. Should i go 3-B+ 1-C+? or should i keep the P+ and lose the C+?
Any suggestions on bulb combo?
Bpb
New member
I run my bulbs for 12 months at a time before I think about changing. Some people will recommend changing them every 6 months. Some manufacturer say they're good for 18+ months. I think every 6 months is excessive though. Yearly is fine for me! Just change them one at a time and space the changes out by a week or so
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