The T5 Q&a Thread - split

So I just wanted to post some recent observations I have made with my own tank. What I am about to say isn't anything special or unknown. It isn't groundbreaking by any means either. Just different then what we/I repeat day in and day out.

I'm currently running my Sunpower over a 24g tank and it is total overkill. Like I'm bleaching sps on the bottom and have cut my photo period way down. I added an actinic a few weeks ago to help lower PAR but it hasn't helped a ton even. It is helping but not quite enough.

So I decided to only run all 6 bulbs for two hours and then run a two bulb dusk/ dawn for eight hours total. I went with my standard blue and purple plus combo but didn't love it. So I tried two blue plus (haven't run this in years) and hated it. Like I truly hated it. I lost colors in almost everything. I had some good fluorescence but not great. This is when it all hit me!

I put the actinic on with a blue and found it to be awesome. But I noticed the lack of color in everything under the blue. Switch bulbs around and put the actinic in back and same story. The back corals came to life while the front looked bad. Do I have a bad blue bulb maybe? It looks very green to me overall. Like in all honesty the peak is around 480nm not 454nm. I have three other blues to try so I try them all, same results. When did the blue plus become so green??? My old blue plus bulbs were always much deeper blue overall.

So here are my thoughts overall. I may get flamed as some of them are a total 180 from my old thinking.

1) blue light is amazing but we are over emphasizing it. I want more violet-blue light in my tanks.

2) the aquablue bulb isn't nearly as bad as I once thought. I actually enjoy it in my daylight hours to see some true color in my sps.

3) those of us with good T5 fixtures can sacrifice some PAR and run actinics. On my 6 bulb fixture I plan to run at least 2 pure actinic bulbs and then 4 high PAR bulbs. I hope to upgrade to an 8 bulb fixture actually for my new 60g cube. I will run 3 at that point.

Fluorescence is great and all but I find myself enjoying the true colors in my corals and then letting them fluoresce later in the day with a couple actinics. I have an sps colony in my tank that has gorgeous purple tips in the sun but when my lighting comes on, I see baby blue tips and a purplish body. During the day I like to see that purple stand out.

Again, nothing here is new or unprecedented. Just my new opinion. I like pastel colors as well, as my new tank will be all zeovit. I feel I will have better coloring by using more violet light. I'm also on the quest to find a better blue bulb. I want a deeper blue but not violet bulb. I doubt it is available but I will look.

Ryan

I do see your point however with my experimenting I aproached it differently. The Blue plus bulbs suposedly have a peak at 420nm and another peak between 454 and 460 nm. But it is also a wide spectrumed bulb that produces light as low as 400nm and as high as 520 nm. Given the normal sensativity of the human eye we see green light much more readily than we see blue or near violet light. So it is understandable that the Blue Plus will look more green to us an 420nm atinic bulb.

For me when I switched to 6 blue plus bulbs, with one purple and one ge 6500 my first impression was it was way to blue. After getting used to the color I lost that feeling. Personlay I believe it was my eye getting adjusted to seeing the bluer color.

About a year ago I added a strip of 6 LED's 456nm royal blues as moon lights. These were 3 watt LED's that I was running at roughly about 1/2 watt each. When I ran them alone at night it was wow only the florescene was visable. But now remember LED's cover specific wavelenghts and there is basicly 0 light below 439nm or above 469nm. So I upped the wattage to 3 watts per LED and use them as pre-dawn and post dusk now. They still produce fantastic florescense even more so than before.

In my playing with this I tried some so called 420 nm LED's and they produced less florescence than the 454's did and also gave the tank a pink look. They did however bring out a little yellow florescense that I had not seen before on some LPS corals. My next try was the atinics as they are suposed to be strong at 420 nm and still give a range of some blues. They did give some florescense but not nearly what the 454 nm LED's did.

As comparison the 18 watts of 454 nm LED's gave much more florescense than 108 watts of 420nm T-5 Atinics. But the Atinic T-5's did give more florescense than the Blue plus bulbs did.

I have also experimented on another tank with LED's. I have found that 454 Royal Blue LED's bring out some florescent patterns and that 460 nm LED's bring out other floresecent paterns. Yes some patterns are the same with either but others corals look different mainly chifting from a yellow green color to a blue green color of florescense. With both on they produce a green closer to but more intense than what I see with T-5 Blue Plus bulbs.

I'm starting to think that the ideal lighting fixture is a combination of T-5's and LED's. The LED's targeting the 454 to 460 nm range and the T-5's filling in the gaps between 420nm and 500 nm. The full spectrum mid day range can be covered with either the T-5's or the LED's.
 
ok thanks sounds good...ill order one...they have multiple variations of actinic? a pref as to any particular one?

My current actinic bulb is a Geisemann because that is what my lfs had on hand. I've never tried an ATI actinic but have heard good things about that as well.

Sent from my Galaxy S3
 
I have to say for a 2 bulb dawn/dusk combo the ATI BLUE PLUS & ATI ACTINIC are hard to beat together. I only have it on a 4 bulb Sunpower so the bulbs are close enough to blend well.

I do think if you have a SPS tank its not gonna help much as the PAR is more important. But or zoas and LPS actinics bring out some nice colors in the fleshy corals.

My tank almost looks unnaturally artificial with all the blue/purple but its a great contrast having freshwater tanks in the same room.(back) 2 blue,1 Fiji purple,1 actinic.(front)
29rftscropped.jpg
 
I have to say for a 2 bulb dawn/dusk combo the ATI BLUE PLUS & ATI ACTINIC are hard to beat together. I only have it on a 4 bulb Sunpower so the bulbs are close enough to blend well.

The ATI True Atinic has a peak at 420 and a primary range of 410 to 445. While the Blue Plus peak at 460 (True Blue) and range primarly from 440 to 480. So the result is a good amount of light from roughly 410 to 480 nm. The overlaping frequencies of the two bulbs also give you a peak in the 435 to to 450 area.

My experimention with LEDs that are very narrow spectrumed gave the most florescense at 454 nm. A LED at 460 nm floresce slightly less but interestingly the colors floresced differently. And with sole 420 and or 430 nm leds the florescense was much less visable but again the colors were different. I think with your combination you are coveing the entire basic florescense range.

A few years ago I found a chart of over 100 different florescent pigments found in corals. This chart gave the frequencies that excited the corals and the frequency that the corals radiated light. about 60% of these pigments were excited at wavelenghts between 440nm and 460 nm. about 85% were excited at wavelenghts between 420 nm and 520 nm. and 98% of them were excited with wavelenghts between 400nm and 620 nm.

My big difference with yours is that now I'm suplementing the Blue Plus bulbs with 454 nm LED's rather than a 420nm Atinic bulb. And yes I will definatly say that when just these two light sources are on the tank it almost looks a black light painting that moves.
 
I could a bit of advice from the lighting experts. I have a 48" 6 bulb ATI Sunpower hanging 7" off the water (acrylic tank) with the following bulbs:

Blue Plus
Blue Plus
Coral Plus
GE 6500K
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

I changed the bulbs on 12/3/12 (about 10 months use on the old bulbs) and raised the light to about 4" to it's current position (was running the light about 3" off the water). I had been running a Purple Plus instead of the Coral Plus. I have a mixed reef with the typical SPS, LPS, zoas/palys, couple softies and a Derasa clam. The whole time the tank's been up (before and after changing the bulbs) some of the zoas/palys wouldn't open fully and some of the softies didn't seem as full as I'd expect but I'd still get good polyp extension. Color on the SPS was OK but growth was pretty good. I was, however, getting some nuisance algae.

My dusk/dawn bulbs (2 Blue Plus) were on 12 hours (10a-10p) and the day time bulbs were on 8 hours (noon-8p). I decided to do an experiment and drastically reduced the lighting period to see if the algae would go away. I switched to only using the two Blue Plus bulbs with a 3:00p - 10p lighting schedule. The algae did pretty much clear up but, to my surprise, the corals appear to be thriving! My zoas/palys have never been more full and open. My purple gorgonian has so much poly extension it looks like a bottle brush. The softies are very full with great PE and the SPS are starting to color up more and growing (also with great PE).

My only conclusion is that I must have been frying my corals with too much par and too long a photo period (other tank params have stayed level & fine). So should I change the bulb combo to something with less par (drop the 6500K, add an actinic, etc.), raise the light, decrease the photo period or a combination? With the current bulb combo I'd say I'm more in the 12K range with all the lights on and wouldn't mind getting closer to the 15K range. I'd also like to enhance the color & pop of the corals (like my Aussie gold torch).

Let me know what you think. Thanks!
 
75 Gallon mixed reef 6 bulb tek fixture looking for the bulb combo that will provide best growth that makes my corals pop as well, and looking to be around a 14-16k spectrum. Which bulbs make the best dusk/dawn combo?
 
I could a bit of advice from the lighting experts. I have a 48" 6 bulb ATI Sunpower hanging 7" off the water (acrylic tank) with the following bulbs:

Blue Plus
Blue Plus
Coral Plus
GE 6500K
Blue Plus
Blue Plus


My dusk/dawn bulbs (2 Blue Plus) were on 12 hours (10a-10p) and the day time bulbs were on 8 hours (noon-8p). I decided to do an experiment and drastically reduced the lighting period to see if the algae would go away. I switched to only using the two Blue Plus bulbs with a 3:00p - 10p lighting schedule. The algae did pretty much clear up but, to my surprise, the corals appear to be thriving! My zoas/palys have never been more full and open. My purple gorgonian has so much poly extension it looks like a bottle brush. The softies are very full with great PE and the SPS are starting to color up more and growing (also with great PE).

My only conclusion is that I must have been frying my corals with too much par and too long a photo period (other tank params have stayed level & fine). So should I change the bulb combo to something with less par (drop the 6500K, add an actinic, etc.), raise the light, decrease the photo period or a combination? With the current bulb combo I'd say I'm more in the 12K range with all the lights on and wouldn't mind getting closer to the 15K range. I'd also like to enhance the color & pop of the corals (like my Aussie gold torch).

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Yes it is pussoble to get a negative effect from access lighting. This is especialy true for light in the 620nm to 680nm range. This range has been broven to bleach out some varieties of corals when in excess.

Sounds like you want a bluer look yet. Some options would be changing your coral plus to a blue plus, Other options could be changing the GE 6,500 to either an Aquable special, a coral plus or a another blue plus. And a third option would be replacing the coral plus with a Geis. Atinic Plus.
 
75 Gallon mixed reef 6 bulb tek fixture looking for the bulb combo that will provide best growth that makes my corals pop as well, and looking to be around a 14-16k spectrum. Which bulbs make the best dusk/dawn combo?

3 blue plus, 1 actinic, 1 purple plus and 1 aquablue. Use a blue and actinic for dusk dawn.

Sent from my Galaxy S3
 
I could a bit of advice from the lighting experts. I have a 48" 6 bulb ATI Sunpower hanging 7" off the water (acrylic tank) with the following bulbs:

Blue Plus
Blue Plus
Coral Plus
GE 6500K
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

I changed the bulbs on 12/3/12 (about 10 months use on the old bulbs) and raised the light to about 4" to it's current position (was running the light about 3" off the water). I had been running a Purple Plus instead of the Coral Plus. I have a mixed reef with the typical SPS, LPS, zoas/palys, couple softies and a Derasa clam. The whole time the tank's been up (before and after changing the bulbs) some of the zoas/palys wouldn't open fully and some of the softies didn't seem as full as I'd expect but I'd still get good polyp extension. Color on the SPS was OK but growth was pretty good. I was, however, getting some nuisance algae.

My dusk/dawn bulbs (2 Blue Plus) were on 12 hours (10a-10p) and the day time bulbs were on 8 hours (noon-8p). I decided to do an experiment and drastically reduced the lighting period to see if the algae would go away. I switched to only using the two Blue Plus bulbs with a 3:00p - 10p lighting schedule. The algae did pretty much clear up but, to my surprise, the corals appear to be thriving! My zoas/palys have never been more full and open. My purple gorgonian has so much poly extension it looks like a bottle brush. The softies are very full with great PE and the SPS are starting to color up more and growing (also with great PE).

My only conclusion is that I must have been frying my corals with too much par and too long a photo period (other tank params have stayed level & fine). So should I change the bulb combo to something with less par (drop the 6500K, add an actinic, etc.), raise the light, decrease the photo period or a combination? With the current bulb combo I'd say I'm more in the 12K range with all the lights on and wouldn't mind getting closer to the 15K range. I'd also like to enhance the color & pop of the corals (like my Aussie gold torch).

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Too much light is definitely possible. This is why I've stated that those of us with top end fixtures can use an actinic bulb with little to no consequence.

I believe I'm going on a month now with mine and love it. My lps are all coloring up nicely and all my sps are doing just fine.

For the 15k range I like 3 blue, 1 actinic, 1 purple and 1 aquablue. Using the ge in place of the aquablue gets you around 12k and a coral plus gets you around 17k or so.


Sent from my Galaxy S3
 
I have nova extreme pro fixture 12x39 watts that I just picked up used. Would this fixture work for a mixed reef with sps towards the top. I also would like to keep some zoas/palys, sps and a few lps. Also been looking at different t5 lamps and thinking about going with Ati. What would be a good combo of lamps for what I'm wanting. I would like my zoas/palys to pop in color and get the best growth for my sps. Thanks for any help given.
 
I have nova extreme pro fixture 12x39 watts that I just picked up used. Would this fixture work for a mixed reef with sps towards the top. I also would like to keep some zoas/palys, sps and a few lps. Also been looking at different t5 lamps and thinking about going with Ati. What would be a good combo of lamps for what I'm wanting. I would like my zoas/palys to pop in color and get the best growth for my sps. Thanks for any help given.

For maximum PAR and decent color go with 3 blue plus, 2 coral plus and 1 purple plus. It may be a little white for some but not too bad.

If you are willing to keep sps at the top go with 3 blue plus, 1 actinic, 1 aquablue and 1 purple plus.

Sent from my Galaxy S3
 
Too much light is definitely possible. This is why I've stated that those of us with top end fixtures can use an actinic bulb with little to no consequence.

I believe I'm going on a month now with mine and love it. My lps are all coloring up nicely and all my sps are doing just fine.

For the 15k range I like 3 blue, 1 actinic, 1 purple and 1 aquablue. Using the ge in place of the aquablue gets you around 12k and a coral plus gets you around 17k or so.


Sent from my Galaxy S3

So, considering your feelings on the higher end fixtures being able to run actinic with little consequence, what do you think about the following as it relates to color and growth? I've just changed (today) to this combo.

Blue +
ATI Actinic
Blue +
Coral +
Blue +
Blue +

I'm running the above in a 6 x 39W ATI sunpower over a 40B-ish size tank heading in the SPS dominant direction. Previously, I was running the following combination with new lamps (under 2 months old) and started to see some nuisance algae.


Blue +
Purple+
Blue +
DD Giesmann Mid-Day
Blue +
Blue +

Color was decent and growth was good under this combination but I can't help to think that the amount of red in this combination was a contributing factor to the minor, and it is minimal, nuisance algae.

Thoughts?
 
I posted this to the general forum but perhaps not asking exactly the right question. I have a Tek Elite. I bought it set up to have air drawn out of the fixture. I recently got the "fix the noise/fan failure" kit from Sunlight Supply. All the fans I was provided are pre-mounted to the covers and are configured to blow into the fixture.

My question is a) does anyone know why this is the case and b) which way do the fans blow on competing fixtures (e.g. ATI).
 
I posted this to the general forum but perhaps not asking exactly the right question. I have a Tek Elite. I bought it set up to have air drawn out of the fixture. I recently got the "fix the noise/fan failure" kit from Sunlight Supply. All the fans I was provided are pre-mounted to the covers and are configured to blow into the fixture.

My question is a) does anyone know why this is the case and b) which way do the fans blow on competing fixtures (e.g. ATI).

Because "active cooling" (cooling the lamp's "cold spot" is required to get more PAR & lamp life (longevity). So air must be blown onto the bulbs and vented out the fixture to get this, otherwise it wouldn't cool the lamps it would just remove the excess heat faster.
T5HO lamps are around 120*f (too hot)without cooling but if air is blown on them correctly it will bring the operating temp to the optimal temp and increase performance.
 
So, considering your feelings on the higher end fixtures being able to run actinic with little consequence, what do you think about the following as it relates to color and growth? I've just changed (today) to this combo.

Blue +
ATI Actinic
Blue +
Coral +
Blue +
Blue +

I'm running the above in a 6 x 39W ATI sunpower over a 40B-ish size tank heading in the SPS dominant direction. Previously, I was running the following combination with new lamps (under 2 months old) and started to see some nuisance algae.


Blue +
Purple+
Blue +
DD Giesmann Mid-Day
Blue +
Blue +

Color was decent and growth was good under this combination but I can't help to think that the amount of red in this combination was a contributing factor to the minor, and it is minimal, nuisance algae.

Thoughts?

I think dropping the GMAN midday will help reduce algae a little, it has alot of red spectrum.
GFO will help alot more on the algae tip.
 
For maximum PAR and decent color go with 3 blue plus, 2 coral plus and 1 purple plus. It may be a little white for some but not too bad.

If you are willing to keep sps at the top go with 3 blue plus, 1 actinic, 1 aquablue and 1 purple plus.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

You need to be careful with Blue Plus and Atinic bulbs. While they do not increase the PAR reading as much as full spectrum bulbs do on most Par meters that does not necessarly mean they are not putting out a lot of light in the short wavelenghts. The sensativity of most PAR meters drops off considerably on the edges of the PAR range. This drop off is close to the decrease in sensativity to the human eye in those ranges.

When your balancing light it is true that Blue light is the most important light for most corals. However people forget that you can have an excessive amount of blue light and still have your tank look dim. This is bacause your only seeing part of the blue in comparison to the other colors your used to seeing.

Once you have the proper level of blue light the next step is to brighten up the tank to meet your viewing preference. Look at the fuller spectrum bulb like this.

GE 65000 = 100% full spectrum
Aqua Blue Special = 50% full spectrum 50% Blue
Coral Plus = 25% full spectrum 75% Blue
Purple Plus = 25% red 75% Blue

How many and which full spectrumed bulbs you use is realy up to personal preference. People tell me my tanks are too blue. However mine are not nearly as Blue as rtparty recommends. I'm running 1 GE6,500, 1 Purple Plus, and 6 Blue Plus. Besides that I have a pre-dawn to post dusk kicker with 454nm LED's roughly 24 Watts.

When you selecting Blue Bulbs the thing to keep in mind is that corals prefer a spectrum between 410 nm and 480 nm. Simply saying Atinic or blue can be very deceiving. Because of the variety of bulbs out there. Some examples
Atinic that peak at 420 nm
Atinic that peak at 445 nm
Older Blue Plus that peaked at 454nm
Newer Blue Plus that peak at 460 nm.

T-5 bulbs do not have a very narow spectrum of 5 to 10 nm like LED's. Usualy there spectrum width is closer to 50 nm or more. Therefore you do not need 3 or 4 different blue bulbs to cover the needed of the corals. The 454 blues historicaly were all you neded but since the blue plus bulbs are now peaking at 460 it is not a bad idea to provide a shorter wave lenght atinic bulb to boast the shorter wavelenghts. But keep in mind that 420nm atinics have shorter life spans than 445 Atinics. And 445nm atinics do cover the wavelengts easily as low as 420nm and as high as 470 nm.

Remember end results should be something that you yourself like not what someone elses likes.
 
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