The T5 Q&a Thread - split

The pics...the more I look the less happy I am with them. Too large a size & way too cropped & colors are hard to dial in.
Like my normal 4 bulb combo of 2 blue, 1 purple, 1 actinic looks off, the coralline alage is too blue & the purple montis are way too blue & dull looking as well.

I redid a few pics on my Mac but now it looks more blue on my iPad. This was closer to what I see but it looked better on my Mac, the purple monti I can never get it to look like the true deep purple it really is, sad.

I have a Nikon and believe me taking pictures of different lighting of Aquariums realy is almost impossible to get the true color effect. If you can find a photosensative and opiticialsensative spectrum of a light source and compare the difference you can understand why this is happening. There is a big difference between what the human eye sees and what photography sees.

The best pictures though even not exact to what the eye sees are the ones that I run through photoshop. The prcess is very simple hust find a rock that naturaly appears grey and use that for the gery balance correction in phoroshop. The pictures come out fantastic showing all the colors but not always exactly as the eye sees them.
 
The pics...the more I look the less happy I am with them. Too large a size & way too cropped & colors are hard to dial in.
Like my normal 4 bulb combo of 2 blue, 1 purple, 1 actinic looks off, the coralline alage is too blue & the purple montis are way too blue & dull looking as well.

I redid a few pics on my Mac but now it looks more blue on my iPad. This was closer to what I see but it looked better on my Mac, the purple monti I can never get it to look like the true deep purple it really is, sad.

img10582blue1purp1actco.jpg

Does this look closer Ryan?

2 blue, 1 purple, 1 actinic?

Looks like the purple is right over the Orange monti? A little pink on my screen but pretty good representation
 
I've read almost the whole thread. And grime webpage.. I have an ATI sunpower 36" 6 bulb and am about to pull the trigger on bulbs. I got to the reefgeek page and now I'm back. Please let me know which combo you think would be the best.. I have now on my tank 4x blue+ and a 14k Phoenix 250 watt.. I like the color but would like a little more blue..

I'm thinking

Front
Blue+
Blue+
Purple+ or figi pink? (unsure)
Ge 6500k or coral + (unsure)
Blue+
Blue+

1) I haven't played with the light at all so I don't know which ones are the sunrise/sunset ones and where they are in placement wise.. Is my orientation right for that?

2) Will one 6500k make the tank too white or will the blue + even it out?

3) is there a major difference (to the eye) from the purple + and figi pink?

4) would you change anything? What other colors should I get to play with?

Sorry for the long post just wanted to get my order ASaP and thought I could just get it all out of the way at once..I'm not afraid to order some extra color bulbs to play with but am I on the right track with my order and choice.I'm hoping the resident experts can chime in on what they think of my choice and if it will be a good balance of growth and pop..


Thanks Daniel
 
I've read almost the whole thread. And grime webpage.. I have an ATI sunpower 36" 6 bulb and am about to pull the trigger on bulbs. I got to the reefgeek page and now I'm back. Please let me know which combo you think would be the best.. I have now on my tank 4x blue+ and a 14k Phoenix 250 watt.. I like the color but would like a little more blue..

I'm thinking

Front
Blue+
Blue+
Purple+ or figi pink? (unsure)
Ge 6500k or coral + (unsure)
Blue+
Blue+

1) I haven't played with the light at all so I don't know which ones are the sunrise/sunset ones and where they are in placement wise.. Is my orientation right for that?

2) Will one 6500k make the tank too white or will the blue + even it out?

3) is there a major difference (to the eye) from the purple + and figi pink?

4) would you change anything? What other colors should I get to play with?

Sorry for the long post just wanted to get my order ASaP and thought I could just get it all out of the way at once..I'm not afraid to order some extra color bulbs to play with but am I on the right track with my order and choice.I'm hoping the resident experts can chime in on what they think of my choice and if it will be a good balance of growth and pop..


Thanks Daniel

Check this out.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZvif6APEiU

I would not use any low K bulbs if you want a lot of blue. 1 or 2 other bulbs like 1 purple or 1 coral plus maybe, maybe 1 purple & 1 coral.

2 pages back I posted some 4 & 6 bulb pics.
 
Check this out.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZvif6APEiU

I would not use any low K bulbs if you want a lot of blue. 1 or 2 other bulbs like 1 purple or 1 coral plus maybe, maybe 1 purple & 1 coral.

2 pages back I posted some 4 & 6 bulb pics.

Thanks for the response I have seen those pics and they did help a lot. I think I will just order an extra blue+ and botandem coral +and GE to check it out. I don't think I would be happy looking now at 100% blue+ on my current tank so I def need to experiment.

What about trying to mimic My 14k and blue+ now. A coral + in the mix with all the other? Is the coral plus pretty much a 50/50 bulb?

Again thanks for the input I really appreciate your time.
 
Can someone point me in the direction of a cooling mod for my aquaticlife 6 tube. I want to get the best value I can while I have this unit until I get an ati.

Sent from my SCH-I605
 
Thanks for the response I have seen those pics and they did help a lot. I think I will just order an extra blue+ and botandem coral +and GE to check it out. I don't think I would be happy looking now at 100% blue+ on my current tank so I def need to experiment.

What about trying to mimic My 14k and blue+ now. A coral + in the mix with all the other? Is the coral plus pretty much a 50/50 bulb?

Again thanks for the input I really appreciate your time.

The Coral Pluys will brighten up the blues but it is far from a 50/50 bulb. White is really 33% blue, 33% green and 33% red. Which would be very close to a 10,000K bulb.

Think of it this way

GE would be 30% Blue 35% green 35% Red
Aqua Blue Special 45% Blue 45% Green 10% red
Purple Plus or Fugi Purple is 50% blue 50% red
Coral Plus is 70% blue 5% Green 25% red
Blue Plus is 80% blue 20% Green
KZ Blue is 85% blue 15% green

So if you want a 10 K look you would want to balance the red blue and green
For a 20 K look you would want something like 60% blue 25% green 15% Red
So for 14,000K your looking at 50% Blue 30% green and 20% red

In reality most Aquarium lighting that is claimed to be 20,000K lighting is a lot bluer than a true 20,000K. If you just ran aquablue specials by themselves you would be bluer than a true 20,000K.

What it is in reaity is determining how much white and how much you want blue to dominate to make your personal color choice. For the white end of the spectrum I like the GE 6500 Paired with 2 Purple Plus bulbs. This combination gives you roughly 43% blue, 12 % green 45% red. Then when you add 3 more Blue Plus bulbs it increases your blue lighting considerable so you end with roughly 62% Blue 16% Green 22% Red. Since most people eye are most sensative to green light it will appear fairly blanced as blue to most but to others they will pick up the red and blue enough for them to call it a pink tint. If it looks to pinkl for you you can always drop one of the purple plus bulbs for another Blue Plus.

Looking at the Cloral plus this bulb was originaly designed as a stand alone bulb for people with single or double tube fixtures. It is claimed to a 15,000K light source just by itself. So if your ran 6 Coral plus bulbs you would have a 15,000% result. Most people like a bluer look and would recommend that you rean 3 or more blue bulbs in combination with these. But even running 4 Coral plus and 2 Blue Plus would push your true K rating well over 20,000K.
 
Thanks for the response I have seen those pics and they did help a lot. I think I will just order an extra blue+ and botandem coral +and GE to check it out. I don't think I would be happy looking now at 100% blue+ on my current tank so I def need to experiment.

What about trying to mimic My 14k and blue+ now. A coral + in the mix with all the other? Is the coral plus pretty much a 50/50 bulb?

Again thanks for the input I really appreciate your time.

ATI says the coral plus is 50% blue plus, 40% aquablue special & 10% purple bulbs combined.http://atinorthamerica.com/bulbs.php?tabbedtabs=0

I would start with 4 blue a GE6500 & a purple bulb and go from there, I actually like this 6 bulb combo. If you want more blue try a coral plus instead of the ge6500.
 
Last edited:
Can someone point me in the direction of a cooling mod for my aquaticlife 6 tube. I want to get the best value I can while I have this unit until I get an ati.

Sent from my SCH-I605

Grim was working on one but never seen the completed product, you can start by taking the splash shield off and check your PAR, should get 15% increase just from that alone.
 
Last edited:
The Coral Pluys will brighten up the blues but it is far from a 50/50 bulb. White is really 33% blue, 33% green and 33% red. Which would be very close to a 10,000K bulb.

Think of it this way

GE would be 30% Blue 35% green 35% Red
Aqua Blue Special 45% Blue 45% Green 10% red
Purple Plus or Fugi Purple is 50% blue 50% red
Coral Plus is 70% blue 5% Green 25% red
Blue Plus is 80% blue 20% Green
KZ Blue is 85% blue 15% green

So if you want a 10 K look you would want to balance the red blue and green
For a 20 K look you would want something like 60% blue 25% green 15% Red
So for 14,000K your looking at 50% Blue 30% green and 20% red

In reality most Aquarium lighting that is claimed to be 20,000K lighting is a lot bluer than a true 20,000K. If you just ran aquablue specials by themselves you would be bluer than a true 20,000K.

What it is in reaity is determining how much white and how much you want blue to dominate to make your personal color choice. For the white end of the spectrum I like the GE 6500 Paired with 2 Purple Plus bulbs. This combination gives you roughly 43% blue, 12 % green 45% red. Then when you add 3 more Blue Plus bulbs it increases your blue lighting considerable so you end with roughly 62% Blue 16% Green 22% Red. Since most people eye are most sensative to green light it will appear fairly blanced as blue to most but to others they will pick up the red and blue enough for them to call it a pink tint. If it looks to pinkl for you you can always drop one of the purple plus bulbs for another Blue Plus.

Looking at the Cloral plus this bulb was originaly designed as a stand alone bulb for people with single or double tube fixtures. It is claimed to a 15,000K light source just by itself. So if your ran 6 Coral plus bulbs you would have a 15,000% result. Most people like a bluer look and would recommend that you rean 3 or more blue bulbs in combination with these. But even running 4 Coral plus and 2 Blue Plus would push your true K rating well over 20,000K.



That's a great response to a guy who has just spent a day or two trying to figure out what combo to get. I've read so much it's all mashed into the back only to come back out after I hit the pay now button and regret it. That's a perfect way to point me in the right direction. Thank you.
 
ATI says the coral plus is 50% blue plus, 40% aquablue special & 10% purple bulbs combined.http://atinorthamerica.com/bulbs.php?tabbedtabs=0

I would start with 4 blue a GE6500 & a purple bulb and go from there, I actually like this 6 bulb combo. If you want more blue try a coral plus instead of the ge6500.


Cool I'm gonna order three extra bulbs along with the combo abOve to play with.. A purple, a GE6500k, and a coral plus, to see what's the best for my eye. I figure I could always use them later anyways. I figure also having an extra blue plus around I won't really have to worry about it being too white and with the others I can experiment with growth rates adding more daylight spectrum at the peak of the day.

Do most people order the bulbs online? I have a few places that are local but one closest being a store I vowed to never give buisness to again and seems most order on reefgeek.The others are a good distance away and will most likely be the same price as reefgeek but will give me the temptation to buy some SPS ( my recent kryptonite LOL) and I will have to take a decent drive to get there including bridge toll and a 470 HP car equals more than the online store shipped to my door. And I won't have an opportunity to get a speeding ticket LOL... .

Is reefgeek the best/cheapest/common place to get the ATI bulbs? Marine depot is closest to me as an online vendor but ends up costing more.. The other stores local only have other brands like zoomed and wavepoint and from the par studies I'm not gonna even try them , even though a local store sells the wave points for $10 each ;(


Thanks again to the both of you I'm glad I posted this and I'll let you guys know how it goes and maybe update with a color pic once I swap over tanks.
 
Grim was working on one but never seen the completed product, you can start by taking the splash shield off and check your PAR, should get 15% increase just from that alone.

Wish that was an option but I have a Hob skimmer. I have to wipe off the glass enough now. Its a RO bh2000. If anyone has any ideas it would be of much help.

Sent from my SCH-I605
 
I have had it 7 months. No I can't turn into away it's got a chamber which is apparently new design. I guess I could take the chamber off and get a 90 and put on it. Right?
This chamber or outlets is slotted woth holes in the top. I'm guessing the bubbles supposed to stay in and pop inside the chamber but I'm not for sure.

Sent from my SCH-I605
 
It's been a few days since I got my 4x54 Sunpower, so I thought I'd post up some thoughts. I haven't been able to experiment with it quite as much as I'd like, unfortunately. The day I put it up, I noticed a few slimy strands of dinos on the sand. The next day, the sand bed was brown, and there were slimy strands coming off several of the rocks. I turned all the lights off yesterday, and they'll be staying off for a few days (along with dosing H2O2, and some Kalk to maintain pH of ~8.55).

I did however have some time to play around, and I'm very impressed. I'm definitely glad that I invested in this fixture. It's obviously very well made, and I love the hanging system. Aesthetically, the lighting is worlds better than LEDs alone. I can see why ATI is charging an arm and a left kidney for the LED+T5 powermodule, it's a fantastic combination. With the T5s added in, my green hitchhiking Palys have gone from being pretty little green buttons, to glowing green with red bodies. The colors generally look more defined throughout the tank, and the final color is more to my liking than LEDs alone.

I was surprised by how much more blue the KZ Superblue bulbs where than the ATI Blue + bulbs. The ATI bulbs definitely have a good bit more green in them. They're also appear a bit brighter to my eyes. I like the way the ATI purple bulb makes reds pop out, but it makes everything else look a bit too warm also. I'm currently using:
Front
ATI Actinic
KZ Superblue
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue +
Back

Still not completely sold that I've found the best combination. but I'm getting there.

I ordered a few LPS from DD (Green Galaxea, "Green Eye" Favites, Red and Green Fiva) which should be arriving Tuesday. I'll be turning the lights back on Wednesday (hopefully the Dinos will be all but toast by then, still have no idea why they showed up, I don't have any other problem algae in the tank), so I figure that'll give me some more chances to experiment.
 
It's been a few days since I got my 4x54 Sunpower, so I thought I'd post up some thoughts. I haven't been able to experiment with it quite as much as I'd like, unfortunately. The day I put it up, I noticed a few slimy strands of dinos on the sand. The next day, the sand bed was brown, and there were slimy strands coming off several of the rocks. I turned all the lights off yesterday, and they'll be staying off for a few days (along with dosing H2O2, and some Kalk to maintain pH of ~8.55).

I did however have some time to play around, and I'm very impressed. I'm definitely glad that I invested in this fixture. It's obviously very well made, and I love the hanging system. Aesthetically, the lighting is worlds better than LEDs alone. I can see why ATI is charging an arm and a left kidney for the LED+T5 powermodule, it's a fantastic combination. With the T5s added in, my green hitchhiking Palys have gone from being pretty little green buttons, to glowing green with red bodies. The colors generally look more defined throughout the tank, and the final color is more to my liking than LEDs alone.

I was surprised by how much more blue the KZ Superblue bulbs where than the ATI Blue + bulbs. The ATI bulbs definitely have a good bit more green in them. They're also appear a bit brighter to my eyes. I like the way the ATI purple bulb makes reds pop out, but it makes everything else look a bit too warm also. I'm currently using:
Front
ATI Actinic
KZ Superblue
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue +
Back

Still not completely sold that I've found the best combination. but I'm getting there.

I ordered a few LPS from DD (Green Galaxea, "Green Eye" Favites, Red and Green Fiva) which should be arriving Tuesday. I'll be turning the lights back on Wednesday (hopefully the Dinos will be all but toast by then, still have no idea why they showed up, I don't have any other problem algae in the tank), so I figure that'll give me some more chances to experiment.

When I put high power lighting on my tank I got algae @ first too. GFO,carbon, & water changes.
Is your tank still pretty new? Diatoms are normal in a new tank.
8.5 PH? I wouldn't bother unless it dropped way more than that, but that's me & mine.:jester:

What are you thinking? Maybe a coral plus instead of the purple or another blue instead of the actinic?
 
The tank is only a couple months old, but these are definitely dinos and not diatoms. Long brown snots filled with lotsa bubbles. Inorganic nutrients have been undetectable for some time, and other than one or two small patches of turf, and coralline, I haven't had any major algae after the initial diatom bloom died off. I'm not too worried about it, I'm sure it'll fix itself, I've just read enough horror stories about dinos that I'd rather not chance it :-p.

I may try a coral plus in place of ones of the blues, or I may shuffle around blue + bulbs and KZ superblue bulbs some more. When the LEDs are at 60%+, the colors are absolutely perfect with two actinics, a superblue, and a blue+ (with the blue+ in the back, next to the 90* optic LEDs). When they're under 40% certain colors (especially deep reds and light purples, it seems) are a little washed out. Adding the purple bulb gets the contrast back, but also tends to make everything a little bit too warm, especially very light colors. That may not be the case as coralline coverage improves over time.

The fixture has still dramatically improved color rendition all around, and I'm quite happy with how it looks. I'll just have to experiment a bit to see if I can find a combination that's not blue enough that it starts to wash things out while the LEDs are dim, but still blue enough that it gives me the look and color I want when the LEDs are bright. I think a coral plus bulb might be the ticket, as it looks like it has enough in the green and red wavelengths to even the color out a little bit before the LEDs ramp up, but is still dominantly blue.
 
Brown snot with bubbles does not necessarily mean dinos. I had what I thought to be a dino outbreak (still don't know for sure, no microscope) years ago. After rounds of Ultra Algae X and blackouts and other remedies I managed to defeat the outbreak. Nowadays I notice very similar looking gunk in my refugium, but with slightly more experience I have come to believe it is cyano, not dinos. In the end, don't make any rash decisions, just keep up your husbandry and wait it out to see what happens. Worst case scenario you could probably find a phytologist at a local university's marine biology department to analyze a sample for you to determine what you really have.
 
Interesting. I had all but ruled out cyano due to the extremely rapid growth, very low DOC/nutrient content of the water, and high flow (~7500 GPH in a 120). The good news is that whatever it is doesn't harm any hermits or snails that much on it. I'm not going to go too crazy over it, but I figure blacking out the tank for a few days, raising the pH by .2, and adding a small amount of peroxide is very unlikely to hurt anything that I want in the tank.

Sorry for the derail, I appreciate your input :-). I may look at it under a microscope if it isn't gone when I light the tank up again.
 
A few years ago I was pulling out my hair over cyno bacteria. Many people said I had something else since it was not the deep blue green color that is most common. But I found an article on line about it and there was the picture of exactly what I had.

Interestingly they listed three things that I needed to check.
1. Phosphates level mine were not readable on the test kit I had but after changing test kits I read about 0.7 ppm.
2. Nitrates, and Nitrites which were not a problem for me.
3. Excessive red light especialy in wave lenght over 660nm.

Wow that pinned it for me. MY GE 6,500K bulb was almost 2 years old. From my past experience with that bulb there is gradual increase in the longer wave lenght red part of the spectrum with age and a decrease in the green and blue part of the spectrum. After replacing the GE 6,500K with a new bulb it took about a month for the cyno bacteria to clear up.
 
Back
Top