Just noticed this posting and was wondering if it would work in my case where I too want colors to pop. I'm not too picky about being to blue or white however I do not use dust/dawn with my tank and have my lights on for about 8hrs
The T5 Q&a Thread - split
- Thread starter eagle9252
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Just noticed this posting and was wondering if it would work in my case where I too want colors to pop. I'm not too picky about being to blue or white however I do not use dust/dawn with my tank and have my lights on for about 8hrs
Michigan Mike
Freedom costs a buckofive
Ya you should try it.
I dint use dawn/dusk either but the way it is configured (if you have a ATI or similar dawn/dusk setup) is a good combo IMO.
Lots of blue with a little purple, enough bulbs to use if you don't like a whiter look for us who use the white bulbs when we are not at home etc..
Its better than what you are running now IMO. You can move the bulbs around to however you see fit if you don't like the configuration.
DragonWarriorPo
New member
Does the dimmable ATI models make a difference on how lifespan of bulbs?
If I only run my bulbs at 50% power how long should my bulbs be good for with an SPS dominated tank?
If I only run my bulbs at 50% power how long should my bulbs be good for with an SPS dominated tank?
Dapg8gt
New member
I've thought about this as well.. Thinking of upgrading from the sunpower to the dimmable 10 bulb
TropTrea
New member
Wow I'm not in favor of dimmable by any means. Changing the power level on tubes creates changes in there spectrum noticable with even 10% power changes. Yes you will get a little longer life span on your bulbs at lower power but any savings in replacement will be offset bt needing more bulbs to maintain the same light levels.
Keep in mind the bulb manufacturers spent millions of dollars to tune there bulbs to work under a set standard of parameters. Now your changing those parameters so you might gain in one area but will have two or more times the loss in another.
Michigan Mike
Freedom costs a buckofive
Why do you run them @ 50% ?
Force4000
Member
Hello all, I am semi new to lighting in saltwater tanks (was running a biocube for last few years with standard T5 bulbs). I recently upgraded to a 29G 30 inch long tank. I am having a hard time finding good T5 fixtures to use. I currently have a modified one from a friends 24" fixture which seems to be working great so id def like to stick to T5. Its only a 2 bulb fixture though and is very bulky. I saw Corallife has a nice fixture at a fair price but its also only a 2 bulb fixture. Any input would be appreciated.
DragonWarriorPo
New member
Because I have a shallow reef. Maybe run full power and just raise the fixture?
Dapg8gt
New member
There's quite a few used ATI sunpower 24" on here those are great fixtures I have a 36" and love it.. I will be moving to a 48" though for my 48 long tank..
tmantaylor18
Active member
Im running a 24"6 bulb powermodule over my 24x24x14 high aquarium. I took some par readings yesterday. At 6 inches from the surface of the water Im averaging about 250-300 par where my sps are. I tested it at 4 inches and it's at about 500 par. Should I try to slowly move my lights down to 4 inches?
Hello everyone. I need some advice on which light would be right for my next build. My tank will be 48x24x18. I'm not sure if I should go with a 36" or 48" ATI sunpower fixture and if I should go with 6 or 8 bulbs. I will most likely add a reefbrite or buildmyled strip to my fixture as well. I plan to keep a mixxed reef but with a lot of sps. Thanks for any help.
Michigan Mike
Freedom costs a buckofive
Sure, why not. A lot of high light SPS can handle the increase in PAR. Often they welcome it...at leat mine do, mine have way better encrusting growth and tighter growing corals.
Michigan Mike
Freedom costs a buckofive
48L x 24w x 18H ?
I would get the 8 bulb myself, just for the 24" width you will want 8 bulbs, or possibly 6 bulbs with 2 led strips attached, but I don't use them so I can't say how well they, or it would work.
I'm a fan of the 48" fixtures on 48-60" long tanks.
DiscusHeckel
Acropora Gardener
I would advice caution because Dana Riddle demonstrated that too much PAR can cause photo inhibition. I can dig out references to his work if people want me to.
TropTrea
New member
If the last number 18" is the height I think you would better off with a less effecient 8 bulb fixture as you need the spread more than the penetration. If the 24" is the height then the 6 Bulb Sunpower should be nice match.
On a 48" long tank use a 48" long fixture. If you add LEd's go with a royal blue and for eather dawn or predawn to dusk or post dusk it will give you unbelievabble florescense from your coral.
TropTrea
New member
I remember years ago reading an article on some corals where at the times of peak par they actualy shut down. Also in other articles I remeber someone connecting this to specific wave lenghts. If you read any good literature on specific corals you will find a minimium and max reference to the light they require. Often by picking the wrong corals you or placing them incorrectly you can have a situation of one coral getting insufficient light while another might be getting excessive light.
tmantaylor18
Active member
500-600 par wouldn't be too much as long as I lower the lights slowly over a period of time though right?
DiscusHeckel
Acropora Gardener
I am sure your corals will adapt in time. We need to bare in mind that wild
corals live at all sorts of depths, and are subjected to varying light intensity levels. Your corals will tell you if they are happy with the light intensity you provide for them. My experience suggests that at very high PAR levels (e.g. 400+), most of my corals start to exhibit pastel colours. In my tank, my corals exhibit fairly deep colouration when they receive between 250-350 mmol PAR. To achieve this, my ATI unit (6 X 39W) is suspended 7" over the water surface and most SPS corals are placed just under 10" below the water surface. I have a shallow tank (18" high).
By the way, here are the two articles I mentioned in my previous post written by Dana Riddle, which I hope you will find interesting:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/7/aafeature
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