The T5 Q&a Thread - split

6 bulb with LED strips will work. 8 bulbs would cover the entire tank better so if you want to pack the tank with SPS then that's a good choice. Adding LED strips to the 8 bulb may not work as you'll run out of room at some point

So 8 bulbs doesn't necessarily mean more PAR just wider coverage?

This is a tank I'm sort of wanting to emulate, with respect to lighting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxZsHInV8Rw

I think this tank is done with 6T5s and 2Kessil 350s.

I'm planning my scape sort of low and broken into 2-3 smaller structures with a central spacing of 4-5" from the front and back glass. So my rock work would be island'esque and only 15-16" wide and maybe 10" tall.
 
I'm also running all ATi
front
B+
B+
B+
C+
P+
B+
B+
P+
Should I stick another C+ in there instead of a B+ or P+ ?

My current configuration:

front
B+
B+
C+
B+
C+
B+
C+
B+

I get really good growth, but feel that reflective colours, especially pinks and purples can be better.

I will try the following combination next time round, which may also answer your question:

front
B+
C+
B+
P+ (or KZ fiji purple)
C+
B+
C+
B+

I run dawn/dusk for 12 hours and the full combination for 8 hours. I usually start to change my tubes when they are 10 months old.
 
Very interesting @ adding 2 more coral+
and taking away 1 P+ & 1 B+
Any thought as if too many C+ and missing that 1 B+ and it's affect?
B+
C+
B+
P+
B+
C+
B+
It looks like the B+ would be spread out though.
 
3 C+ and 1 less B + will inevitably mean that your tank will look whiter and less blue. If this is not the effect you want, then you can try 2 X C+ 5 X B+ and 1 X P+.
 
So 8 bulbs doesn't necessarily mean more PAR just wider coverage?

Correct. The outside bulbs have very little, if any, effect on the middle of the tank when using 8 bulbs.

T5s act like a blanket. The bigger the blanket, the more coverage area you have but you won't necessarily have more "warmth" in the middle. Make sense?

It's a major advantage that T5s have over halides and especially LEDs. Point source lighting (halide and LED) acts like one of those space heaters shaped like a dish. It directs the heat where you want but the heat only radiates as wide as the dish allows and only keeps your one side warm.

Kind of a bad analogy overall but should paint a picture.
 
Correct. The outside bulbs have very little, if any, effect on the middle of the tank when using 8 bulbs.

T5s act like a blanket. The bigger the blanket, the more coverage area you have but you won't necessarily have more "warmth" in the middle. Make sense?

It's a major advantage that T5s have over halides and especially LEDs. Point source lighting (halide and LED) acts like one of those space heaters shaped like a dish. It directs the heat where you want but the heat only radiates as wide as the dish allows and only keeps your one side warm.

Kind of a bad analogy overall but should paint a picture.

Excellent analogy.

I have a slightly different experience though. When I upgraded from a 6 X 39W Sunpower unit to a 8 X 39W Powermodule, I expected PAR increase around the edges and just a little increase in the middle as you described. However, to my astonishment, I ended up getting a massive PAR increase overall. This must be because perhaps better quality of ballasts are used in powermodule and/or because of better active cooling. Reflectors seem to be longer in powermodule too though their shapes seem to be the same in both powermodule and sunpower. I run the fans at 9V.

MisterP, my observations are not based on a scientific controlled experiment, but it is worth considering Powermodule instead of Sunpower if your finances permit.
 
Excellent analogy.

I have a slightly different experience though. When I upgraded from a 6 X 39W Sunpower unit to a 8 X 39W Powermodule, I expected PAR increase around the edges and just a little increase in the middle as you described. However, to my astonishment, I ended up getting a massive PAR increase overall. This must be because perhaps better quality of ballasts are used in powermodule and/or because of better active cooling. Reflectors seem to be longer in powermodule too though their shapes seem to be the same in both powermodule and sunpower. I run the fans at 9V.

MisterP, my observations are not based on a scientific controlled experiment, but it is worth considering Powermodule instead of Sunpower if your finances permit.

Ballasts are identical in both fixtures. Cooling is slightly better on the PM and reflectors are usually longer like you said. The PM usually puts out about 10% more PAR than a similar SP.

The outside bulbs on an 8 bulb will definitely add PAR in some spots, at least from my experience. I wouldn't be surprised though to see a 20% or better increase from a 6 bulb SP to an 8 bulb PM. At some point you can have too much light though so it's a balancing act between not enough and overkill.
 
I like the power module I'm just affraid at 18" deep I will be cooking everything in the top 1/3rd of the tank. Even at 10" AWL the PAR would be ridiculous, like 300+ on the sandbed. I think the standard 8 bulb, as you said, will provide more than enough light at $800 less.

So, unless I have some revelation I'm going with a 8 bulb sunpower.

Scratch that....actually the PM is almost $1200 more than a SP.
 
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I like the power module I'm just affraid at 18" deep I will be cooking everything in the top 1/3rd of the tank. Even at 10" AWL the PAR would be ridiculous, like 300+ on the sandbed. I think the standard 8 bulb, as you said, will provide more than enough light at $800 less.

So, unless I have some revelation I'm going with a 8 bulb sunpower.

Scratch that....actually the PM is almost $1200 more than a SP.
Yeah imo there is no need for the powermodule on that shallow of a tank .. I went from a 6 bulb 6x39w sunpower to a 8x 54w powermodule and I'm getting a par reading of 320 dead center on the sand bed right now at 10"+ AWL and a 22' tall tank, so I'd say you will be more than adequate with the cheaper sunpower. They are great fixtures regardless so calling one cheaper is really only referring to the price =).
 
Yeah imo there is no need for the powermodule on that shallow of a tank .. I went from a 6 bulb 6x39w sunpower to a 8x 54w powermodule and I'm getting a par reading of 320 dead center on the sand bed right now at 10"+ AWL and a 22' tall tank, so I'd say you will be more than adequate with the cheaper sunpower. They are great fixtures regardless so calling one cheaper is really only referring to the price =).

I agree.

What bulb combo are you using?
 
I agree.

What bulb combo are you using?

Switched from ATI 6x B+ 2x C+ to the new geisemann line. I think right now I have 5x Actinic blue, 1 aqua coral, 1 aqua blue azure and trying out the purple bulb ( forgot the name it's more white than purple +, imo a positive on looks) I really like the Gman bulbs just hoping they last as long as the ATI' I've learned to love. I'm tracking it monthly with an apogee fwiw.
 
Switched from ATI 6x B+ 2x C+ to the new geisemann line. I think right now I have 5x Actinic blue, 1 aqua coral, 1 aqua blue azure and trying out the purple bulb ( forgot the name it's more white than purple +, imo a positive on looks) I really like the Gman bulbs just hoping they last as long as the ATI' I've learned to love. I'm tracking it monthly with an apogee fwiw.


Keep us posted on the G'mann bulbs.
 
Has anyone ever ran just straight ati B+? How was color and growth if you did? Wondering if I should keep all B+ or stick a C+ into the mix.
 
Has anyone ever ran just straight ati B+? How was color and growth if you did? Wondering if I should keep all B+ or stick a C+ into the mix.

Colors will eventually suffer as you'll have no reflective coloration and corals need a full spectrum for optimal growth and color.
 
Colors will eventually suffer as you'll have no reflective coloration and corals need a full spectrum for optimal growth and color.

ah i see, perhaps i should toss in a C+? (i have 4 bulbs of T5) or should i rely on the hydras in the middle for the missing spectrum?
 
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