The T5 Q&a Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Does ATI make an eight globe module? I had a look on their website and it seems they only have a six. Will I have to modify the hood if fitting the eight globe unit? Thanks.

Steve

ATI Powermodule comes in 4, 6, 8 and 10 lamps units.

The sunpower is 4 or 6 lamps.
 
so im getting new bulbs for my nano and a 55g i'm building but i wanted to see what you guys think about this combo first. both are 4 bulb fixtures

ati blue+
uvl super actinic
kz fiji purp
ati blue+

think this will be too blue or should it be ok? and also is it sufficient for good sps growth?
 
On an odd shape tank I would think about working on the halide. If you change to a different reflector I bet you can solve the light spill.

For T5's I think maybe a retrofit would be a better option. You could use different lenght lamps to make things work

Front
36" ATI Blue Plus
36" KZ Fiji Purple
24" ATI Blue Plus
24" GE 6500K Daylight
24" ATI Aquablue
24" ATI Blue Plus

Thanks Grim for the advice. Light spill isn't my issue with the halide, actually I quite like the light so the spill is something we just deal with. My issue for maybe getting rid of it is the heat and power consumption. My electric bill is outrageous so trying to cut out a few things that suck up so much energy. That's my main reason for thinking about T5. Use possibly half the wattage and not have to worry about the heat it's releasing into the tank and the living room.

Is there a manufacturer that offers a 2 bulb 36" fixture? Maybe I could look into that and a 4 bulb 24" fixture.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks in advance for the help. I'm running 6X54 on IceCap with 4 small fans across the back of the canopy on a sps tank. What is the ideal temp under the bulbs? Just want to know if I have enough or too much cooling in there for good performance. Placed a digital thermometer on my center brace and it reads 110 degrees with all lamps on. Lamps are 3-4" off the top of the water. I could try stronger fans or add one on each side of the canopy or leave it be.
 
Hey Grim I really need help. I need new T5 bulbs. I bought the tank and the lights from a guy and Ive never used t5s before but the bulbs Ive been using since I got it are

2 Blue+, UVL Super Actinic, and GE 6500k

I have SPS, LPS, and zoas in my tank so I need something that will be right for them all. Could you help me? Im not 100% sure but Im pretty sure the bulbs are 39watt. My tank is a 40br.
 
Hey Grim I really need help. I need new T5 bulbs. I bought the tank and the lights from a guy and Ive never used t5s before but the bulbs Ive been using since I got it are

2 Blue+, UVL Super Actinic, and GE 6500k

I have SPS, LPS, and zoas in my tank so I need something that will be right for them all. Could you help me? Im not 100% sure but Im pretty sure the bulbs are 39watt. My tank is a 40br.

ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

They can all be found at Reefgeek and Premium Aquatics (I think)
 
Thanks Grim for the advice. Light spill isn't my issue with the halide, actually I quite like the light so the spill is something we just deal with. My issue for maybe getting rid of it is the heat and power consumption. My electric bill is outrageous so trying to cut out a few things that suck up so much energy. That's my main reason for thinking about T5. Use possibly half the wattage and not have to worry about the heat it's releasing into the tank and the living room.

Is there a manufacturer that offers a 2 bulb 36" fixture? Maybe I could look into that and a 4 bulb 24" fixture.

Thanks again!

I think Tek makes 2 lamp fixtures. If you have a canopy you could use their ready fix retrofits, they are plug 2 lamp units and play so you don't have to mess with any wiring.
 
Thanks in advance for the help. I'm running 6X54 on IceCap with 4 small fans across the back of the canopy on a sps tank. What is the ideal temp under the bulbs? Just want to know if I have enough or too much cooling in there for good performance. Placed a digital thermometer on my center brace and it reads 110 degrees with all lamps on. Lamps are 3-4" off the top of the water. I could try stronger fans or add one on each side of the canopy or leave it be.

You only want to cool the label ends of the lamps so place your fans blowing in at one end directed at the endcaps. You could use the other fans blowing out at the opposite end to set up a airflow across the canopy.

You want the tamp at the endcap to be around 114 degrees on a non overdriven lamp but for an overdriven one I don't know, you probably can't keep them that cool nor would want them to be that cool.
 
I have a 30" Sundial (24" lamps) with timers at 1/3 and 2/4. I am currently running Geismanns as follows:

front
Actinic Plus
Midday
Actinic Plus
Aquablue

When I'm due to replace them I'd like to try something new/different - maybe the Fiji purple and/or the ATI bulbs. I have zoas, rics, and plan on adding some softies, low light stuff, but I'd like to maximize the colors while still enjoying the overall color of the tank (ie not too blue). Is this even possible? :hmm3:
 
I have a 30" Sundial (24" lamps) with timers at 1/3 and 2/4. I am currently running Geismanns as follows:

front
Actinic Plus
Midday
Actinic Plus
Aquablue

When I'm due to replace them I'd like to try something new/different - maybe the Fiji purple and/or the ATI bulbs. I have zoas, rics, and plan on adding some softies, low light stuff, but I'd like to maximize the colors while still enjoying the overall color of the tank (ie not too blue). Is this even possible? :hmm3:


Your colors usually come from the blue light. Too white and you wash everything out and with too much yellow everything goes brown.

2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 KZ Fiji Purple, and 1 ATI Aquablue looks identical to a Phoenix 14k to my eyes. I was recently at a friend's house and he has two frag tanks. One is lit by 250W Phoenix bulbs and the other with the above T5 combo. The tanks looked identical in color to me and even his frags looked the same between the two tanks. The nice thing about the T5 frag tank was that the corals were more evenly colored if that makes sense.

The tanks are stacked so I was staring at both up close and from a distance.
 
Hello Grim, My new tank is 36"w x 24"d x 22"t. I want to keep a mix, I know alot of the sps would have to be up high in the tank with T5's, but would they be strong enough as a whole over halide's. I dont want to hope the light is strong enough, I want to know it is...
 
Hello Grim, My new tank is 36"w x 24"d x 22"t. I want to keep a mix, I know alot of the sps would have to be up high in the tank with T5's, but would they be strong enough as a whole over halide's. I dont want to hope the light is strong enough, I want to know it is...

With an 8 bulb ATI Powermodule you could keep SPS anywhere in that tank without an issue.

Even cheap T5 fixtures keep up with 150W halides. The good stuff like ATI put out some serious light. You will have no issue wondering if SPS can be kept. You will actually wonder how you can keep LPS alive without frying them. LOL I don't say that to show how big and bad ATI is but to let you know that T5's are serious and much stronger than people think.

Check out rimlessreef dot com. That will answer some questions.
 
I am purchasing a 48" 4x54w fixture to place over a frag tank. The tank is 48"x24"x12". I am not concerned about the color or look, I am more focused on the growth. What would you recommend for this fixture?

Ryan
 
I am purchasing a 48" 4x54w fixture to place over a frag tank. The tank is 48"x24"x12". I am not concerned about the color or look, I am more focused on the growth. What would you recommend for this fixture?

Ryan


2 ATI Blue Plus and 2 GE 6500K
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top