The T5 Q&a Thread

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Hello,

Hopefully this issue has not already been addressed. I have scanned back several pages and have not seen this question posed... I apologize in advance if it has.

I, like many NEP 20" owners, have been stuck with the limited 2 bulb choices from Current. Nano Tuners announced presale of new UVL bulbs that will work in this fixture. I have confirmed this via email and another owner had a chat with them. In anticipation of this wonderful new option, I am trying to figure out which bulbs to choose now that I have more than 2 choices. I would like something like the standard 6 bulb choices often repeated on this thread. I like a more blue look in the 14K-20k range. My tank is quickly becoming a SPS dominant tank, but of course want to balance color with growth. (In reality my SPS is doing pretty well on the stock bulbs"¦ but think I can do better and get a nicer color balance from new.) Probably more emphasis on color than growth if forced to choose.<o>></o>>
<o></o>
The new bulbs are 30w as seen below. This is compared to the Current bulbs which are 20w. Nano Tuners has stated there should be no issue in this difference running with the Current NEP original ballast. If anyone feels this is incorrect, please let me know.<o></o>
<o></o>
Below are the new UVL choices. In theory if deemed preferable, the Current 10K and Actinic bulbs could be in the mix as well. I am assuming the Current Actinic would not as I recall it tested very poorly in Par readings.
<o></o><o></o>
030w T5-R VHO - UVL 454 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Actinic White 18"(12000K)
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Aquasun 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Indigo Sun 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Super Actinic 18"


Additional question while I am at it. :) What height would be recommended for this fixture.
<o></o>
Please let me know your recommendations. They are greatly appreciated! In thanks for this assistance and guidance I promise to post par reading of before and after if I can get hold of my club's meter.

I believe the other NEP 20" owners will benefit from this greatly as well. :)<o></o>

Front
454
Actinic white
454
Indigo Sun or current 10K
454
454

I would keep the fixture as close to the top of the tank as possible.
 
Front
454
Actinic white
454
Indigo Sun or current 10K
454
454

I would keep the fixture as close to the top of the tank as possible.

Great! I do not think it has been said recent enough. Even if it has... Your dedication and assistance is truly awesome! Thank you.
 
Hey grim setting up a 48x36x24 190 gallon sps system with the 10 bulb powermodule. Any suggestions on bulb combinations?

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
 
Grim, I have a Aquatincs Solar Flare and replacing the lights. Going with the standard
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
Now I want to play wth the color. I was thinking on buying two more lamps. An Aquablue and a Figi purple. I would not use both lamps but replace one of the blue pluses with either one. So I would get a little more or less blue. Your thoughts and ideas please

Marty
 
Hello,
I, like many NEP 20" owners, have been stuck with the limited 2 bulb choices from Current. Nano Tuners announced presale of new UVL bulbs that will work in this fixture. I have confirmed this via email and another owner had a chat with them. In anticipation of this wonderful new option, I am trying to figure out which bulbs to choose now that I have more than 2 choices. I would like something like the standard 6 bulb choices often repeated on this thread. I like a more blue look in the 14K-20k range. My tank is quickly becoming a SPS dominant tank, but of course want to balance color with growth. (In reality my SPS is doing pretty well on the stock bulbs"¦ but think I can do better and get a nicer color balance from new.) Probably more emphasis on color than growth if forced to choose.<o>></o>>

...

<o></o>
Below are the new UVL choices. In theory if deemed preferable, the Current 10K and Actinic bulbs could be in the mix as well. I am assuming the Current Actinic would not as I recall it tested very poorly in Par readings.
<o></o><o></o>
030w T5-R VHO - UVL 454 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Actinic White 18"(12000K)
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Aquasun 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Indigo Sun 18"
030w T5-R VHO - UVL Super Actinic 18"


Additional question while I am at it. :) What height would be recommended for this fixture.
<o></o>
Please let me know your recommendations. They are greatly appreciated! In thanks for this assistance and guidance I promise to post par reading of before and after if I can get hold of my club's meter.

I believe the other NEP 20" owners will benefit from this greatly as well. :)<o></o>

Front
454
Actinic white
454
Indigo Sun or current 10K
454
454

I would keep the fixture as close to the top of the tank as possible.

Thanks Grim.
Like Michael I also have a NEP-20 over a Solana. I recently started mine as a mixed reef tank. I'll have some SPS and an anemone. Also like Michael my concern for color slightly outweighs growth. I have the stock mix of bulbs, 3 actinic, 3 white. I'm not satisfied with the color and feel that it's two white.
Since my bulbs are fairly new I would like to only replace some of them with UVL bulbs, later cycling back the ones I take out. If I were to start with just 2 UVL bulbs what would you recommend? UVL is also offering a 3x30W ballast to drive the bulbs at 30W instead of 18W. If you think this would make a big difference I'll make the switch.
Thanks.
I'll post before and after pictures.
 
Grim,

First great new web site you set up and sorry to hear about your car accident several years ago. Two weeks ago had some &^%$#&* plow into my wife sitting at a red light and she hit her going 50+ mph while on her blackberry. Luckily my wife was in a Volvo, but she is going to have several years of therapy.

Well, onto the subject matter, I have a 180 gl. 100% sps dominate tank that is 60" x 24" 29". I have three LumenBright MH right now and I want to jump the fence and go T5's.

First, what are the two or three best fixtures on the market? Next do I go 48" or 60" fixture? 8 or 10 bulb setup? I am looking primary for super good growth with a close second being obviously good sps color.

So what do you think. Jumping over from MH this has to be a homerun if I am going to sink the $$$ in to make the switch. Talk to me straight:-).

BTW: what type of heat savings do you think I can experience? That is one of the reasons why I may make the switch. My MH setup is simply making my chiller work too hard, etc.

I know you have answered similar questions as mine many times over, but could not locate them all without perusing 100's of pages.......SORRY.

Many thanks and keep up the good work on this site.
 
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Grim, I have a Aquatincs Solar Flare and replacing the lights. Going with the standard
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
Now I want to play wth the color. I was thinking on buying two more lamps. An Aquablue and a Figi purple. I would not use both lamps but replace one of the blue pluses with either one. So I would get a little more or less blue. Your thoughts and ideas please

Marty

Replacing a blue plus with either of those will make it less blue.
 
Thanks Grim.
Like Michael I also have a NEP-20 over a Solana. I recently started mine as a mixed reef tank. I'll have some SPS and an anemone. Also like Michael my concern for color slightly outweighs growth. I have the stock mix of bulbs, 3 actinic, 3 white. I'm not satisfied with the color and feel that it's two white.
Since my bulbs are fairly new I would like to only replace some of them with UVL bulbs, later cycling back the ones I take out. If I were to start with just 2 UVL bulbs what would you recommend? UVL is also offering a 3x30W ballast to drive the bulbs at 30W instead of 18W. If you think this would make a big difference I'll make the switch.
Thanks.
I'll post before and after pictures.

I'd be worried about cooling if you changed out the ballast.

As far as the lamps add 2 454's in place of one Blue and 1 10 K.
 
Grim,

First great new web site you set up and sorry to hear about your car accident several years ago. Two weeks ago had some &^%$#&* plow into my wife sitting at a red light and she hit her going 50+ mph while on her blackberry. Luckily my wife was in a Volvo, but she is going to have several years of therapy.

Well, onto the subject matter, I have a 180 gl. 100% sps dominate tank that is 60" x 24" 29". I have three LumenBright MH right now and I want to jump the fence and go T5's.

First, what are the two or three best fixtures on the market? Next do I go 48" or 60" fixture? 8 or 10 bulb setup? I am looking primary for super good growth with a close second being obviously good sps color.

So what do you think. Jumping over from MH this has to be a homerun if I am going to sink the $$$ in to make the switch. Talk to me straight:-).

BTW: what type of heat savings do you think I can experience? That is one of the reasons why I may make the switch. My MH setup is simply making my chiller work too hard, etc.

I know you have answered similar questions as mine many times over, but could not locate them all without perusing 100's of pages.......SORRY.

Many thanks and keep up the good work on this site.

You should sue the maker of Blackberry and use the money to add solar tubes to feed light to the tank :hmm4:


I like the 48" fixtures because you have a better selection of lamps and the light will cover the lenght of the tank pretty well as far as appearance but you can place high light critters in the last 6 inches or so of the tank at each end.

At 29" tall I would use an 8 or 10 lamp ATI Powermodule. If you want a tank full of SPS keep the fixture right on top of the tank and go with 10 lamps. For mixed use 8 lamps and keep the fixture about 4" above the tank. Really can't say for positive on the chiller but I would be amazed if you still had to run it unless your room is very hot.
 
I like the 48" fixtures because you have a better selection of lamps and the light will cover the lenght of the tank pretty well as far as appearance but you can place high light critters in the last 6 inches or so of the tank at each end.

At 29" tall I would use an 8 or 10 lamp ATI Powermodule. If you want a tank full of SPS keep the fixture right on top of the tank and go with 10 lamps. For mixed use 8 lamps and keep the fixture about 4" above the tank. Really can't say for positive on the chiller but I would be amazed if you still had to run it unless your room is very hot.


GREAT info GR and thanks for the fast reply. Looks like I will go with the 48" w/ 10 x 54W and keep close to the tank so I can feed my sps's for good growth.

The 60" fixture is that challenging for bulb selection?

Once I determine the setup I will hit you up for bulb selection, etc.

Many thanks again.........
 
Hi Grim;

You skipped me. Here is my question again:

I could use your opinion. I have a 48" - 55G tank and the 4 bulb T5 light (no name brand) on it is subpar. Corals are mainly SPS with a handful of LPS (Acans mostly). I'd like to add a clam to the bottom as well.

Question 1: Should I pick up a 4 bulb or 6 bulb Tek light hood?

I'm kind of leaning towards the 6 bulb myself.

Question 2: Assuming 6 bulb, how about this combo for looks and growth:

**Front**
Blue +
KZ Coral Light II (14K)
Blue + (or Actinic?)
KZ Fiji Purple
KZ Coral Light (10K)
Blue +

Thanks;
Kelly Grimm (another Grimm reefer!)
 
hello, i guess i address the question to grim?

well im looking for some retro fits for my pico tank and i was thinking about trying T5s.

i was looking at nanotuners and they seem to lack a little in the T5 department and i cant figure out what is a good t5 ballast

i was looking at the T5VHO - Fulham Workhorse 5 and it has very very little info on it (http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=663). could you tell me how many bulbs this can fire and of what length? i would like to use the 12 inch 20 watt bulbs that nano tuners sells, but are these ok bulbs? http://www.nanotuners.com/index.php?cPath=77 also would these endcaps be fine?
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=664
i have only ever bought retrokits which usually come with wiring, so would i have to buy wiring separate as well?

feel kinda slow asking all this stuff, but im most familiar with pc retros and i have only bought T5 fixtures, never DIY retros.

also is this a t5 ballast? http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=445 im not quite sure how to interpret all that mess. if so how many bulbs (20w) can it fire?
 
whatsup Grim? hope your weekend is going well

i was reading your homepage (now on my bookmarks **very informative). i noticed that you recommend placing the lights (t5) on top of the tank as well as removing the acrylic splashguards.

My question is: which one provides more of an improvement? running the lights directly on top of the aquarium, or w/o splashguards?

My lighting is 2 current 2x24 completely stock but with ATI blue +, aquablue special in both. tank is a 28 bowfront mixed reef but am compiling quite a bit more sps than expected.
thanks in advance brother, you kick @$$ on this thread and the lighting subject in general.
-hunter
 
Need help choosing bulbs

Need help choosing bulbs

Grim, could you suggest a good bulb combo for a 72" Aquactinics Constellation? Fixture holds 14-39 watt T5's. I will be keeping mostly SPS. Thanks.
 
6022351_orig.jpg


Grim I'm currently running the Aquatinics Constellation 14 bulb fixture as you know. I'm probably a Pain in your butt at this point. I took your suggestion and Now I'm running

ATI Blue +
GE 6500k
ATI Blue +
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue +
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue +

When I turn off the GE 6500K and the ATI AquaBlue I get the color I want only its darker Because of the loss of 4 lights that are white.

What bulbs to replace to bring out the Actinic PoP. SunnyX's Reef is a prime examble of what I'm trying to do. I don't like the tank white I want it Actinic like. Thanks again.

I have the following Bulbs at my disposal

Aquascience 22K's X 4

And I can buy any bulb you suggest.


(what does the GE bulb do again?) I know the UVL 75/25 brings out the reds but the GE is a mystery to me. My tank is only 23" High and all my SPS are in the Top Half of my tank. If I place the fixture ON the tank I get a darkspot in the middle. Is 5 or 6 Inches from the water line ok? Only LPS and Softies/Zoo Gardens are on the sand Bed.

This is my ideal Look
sideshot.jpg


3617556_orig.jpg
 
GREAT info GR and thanks for the fast reply. Looks like I will go with the 48" w/ 10 x 54W and keep close to the tank so I can feed my sps's for good growth.

The 60" fixture is that challenging for bulb selection?

Once I determine the setup I will hit you up for bulb selection, etc.

Many thanks again.........

You can't get UVL lamps in the 60" length. Other than that... It is something you can get around, especially if you get your lamps local but shipping the longer lamps is expensive.
 
Hey Grim. It's time to change the bulbs in my 8 lamp PM. I have a 120 standard dimensions and I'm thinking:

Blue+
KZ fiji
Blue+
Some type actinic to deepen the colors? Maybe new KZ actinic? If not, another UVL A.W.?
Blue +
UVL Actinic white
Blue+
KZ fiji


Going for the 20k look. Should I do a GE 6500 since I'm only going with one white to keep from washing the tank out with blue? I'm not familiar with the UVL AW, I've always used the ATI aquablue special. Does it have better par?
 
Last edited:
Hi Grim;

You skipped me. Here is my question again:

I could use your opinion. I have a 48" - 55G tank and the 4 bulb T5 light (no name brand) on it is subpar. Corals are mainly SPS with a handful of LPS (Acans mostly). I'd like to add a clam to the bottom as well.

Question 1: Should I pick up a 4 bulb or 6 bulb Tek light hood?

I'm kind of leaning towards the 6 bulb myself.

Question 2: Assuming 6 bulb, how about this combo for looks and growth:

**Front**
Blue +
KZ Coral Light II (14K)
Blue + (or Actinic?)
KZ Fiji Purple
KZ Coral Light (10K)
Blue +

Thanks;
Kelly Grimm (another Grimm reefer!)

I'm Grim not Grimm :dance:

4 lamps will do fine over the 55 but 6 would be nice. Your mix using the actinic would be nice but I would probably use the actinic in slot one so it's part of your dusk/dawn
 
hello, i guess i address the question to grim?

well im looking for some retro fits for my pico tank and i was thinking about trying T5s.

i was looking at nanotuners and they seem to lack a little in the T5 department and i cant figure out what is a good t5 ballast

i was looking at the T5VHO - Fulham Workhorse 5 and it has very very little info on it (http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=663). could you tell me how many bulbs this can fire and of what length? i would like to use the 12 inch 20 watt bulbs that nano tuners sells, but are these ok bulbs? http://www.nanotuners.com/index.php?cPath=77 also would these endcaps be fine?
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=74&products_id=664
i have only ever bought retrokits which usually come with wiring, so would i have to buy wiring separate as well?

feel kinda slow asking all this stuff, but im most familiar with pc retros and i have only bought T5 fixtures, never DIY retros.

also is this a t5 ballast? http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=445 im not quite sure how to interpret all that mess. if so how many bulbs (20w) can it fire?

Workhorse would probably be your only ballast choice on the odd size lamps. The 5 should drive 4 lamps easy. I would strongly recommend using a fan to cool one end of the lamps so you know they aren't getting too hot. Also make sure you wire it right

Wiring

The workhorse will have 1 yellow lead and 4 red leads. You might need some 18 gauge solid core wire to hook this up but the leads on the workhorse are pretty long. What you need to do is run the yellow lead to each lamp. You need to run the wire to each pin of the endcaps using jumpers so basically you run the lead from the ballast to the first lamp. You stab the wire into the first hole on end cap 1, then use a short jumper wire from the first pin (Just shove one end of the wire into the hole with the wire from the ballast unless your end cap has 4 holes) to the second pin of the first end cap. Then you use another jumper wire from the second pin of the first end cap to feed the second end cap, then do the same with the second endcap to feed the third and so on. You just want to make sure you are connecting both pins on all the endcaps to a wire.

For the red leads you do the same thing, ONLY ONE RED LEAD PER LAMP!!!! Run the read lead to the first pin on an end cap and use a jumper to connect the second pin. If there are more than 4 red leads just cap the extras.

Hope that isn't too confusing.
 
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