NorthernCF
Premium Member
You can't in the fixture. The wiring of the ballasts is different for single or paired. It is already wired to be run in pairs.
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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NorthernCF
Premium Member
No. You can not run one bulb with one switch. Each switch runs two bulbs, or none.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Run 4 and put a couple layers of fiberglass window screen over the tank. Pull a layer every week to 10 days and your critters should acclimate OK
davejnz
In Memoriam
I dont know what reflectors they use in that fixture,I do know that the IC-SLR's measure 2.75" and that the tek's reflectors are 2.5".From the tests done on these,it makes sense to me that they are a superior reflector to the smaller ones used in the aquactinics fixture.I dont like the fact they use the cheap endcaps and workhorse ballasts in there T5 fixture as well.IMO,I would choose the Tek fixture anyday over the aquactinics.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I second that^^^.
davejnz
In Memoriam
Thats what i do too,I take some eggcrate though first and place inside the tanks frame.Then just cut 3 sheets of screen over the eggcrate removing 1 sheet per week.
Thats why i suggested a 4bulb retro or fixture.I just built/installed a 4x24wT5/IC660 for a friends canopy.She also only has 12.5"W on her tank.
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My main concern is actually algae growth.
The tank is still young (a few months) and I'm currently going through a diatom bloom, with a little bit of hair algae popping up here and there.
I don't have much in the tank yet, apart from a small clean up crew and a few frags from my 20H.
I'm afraid the hair algae will really take off, especially if I have a daylight bulb in the mix.
Should I only run two bulbs (1 Aquablue, 1 Actinic or Blue+) until things settle down?
davejnz
In Memoriam
IMO/IME,you need to start adding corals.They do a wonderful job of competing with algae for nutrients.MY 75 is also young(barely over 4 months).It is already about 80% stocked.Although i waited until it was 4 months old before i added fish,I was adding corals after 1wk.If the nutrients are in the tank,you will have algae regardless of what spectrum bulbs you use.
Aquactinics
Registered Member
Aquactinics T5 fixture and reflectors
Aquactinics T5 fixture and reflectors
Hello. I noticed there was some confusion about Aquactinics T5 fixtures and reflectors. I just wanted to set some facts straight. Our reflectors are of our own design and manufactured by us. The width of each parabolic reflector is 2" wide. The 5 reflectors together in the fixture are setup in an overall parabolic shape. This is done for a few reasons. First, it allows for the fixture to not be as wide. Second is allows for a more uniform spread and mixing of the T5 lamps and this 9.5" wide fixture can light up a 24" wide tank with the fixture sitting directly on top. Our fixtures designed to be directly on top of a tank to maximize the mount of light into the water, although they can be hung too. I hope this clarifies some of the confusion about the fixtures.
Thank you,
Tom
Aquactinics
Aquactinics T5 fixture and reflectors
Hello. I noticed there was some confusion about Aquactinics T5 fixtures and reflectors. I just wanted to set some facts straight. Our reflectors are of our own design and manufactured by us. The width of each parabolic reflector is 2" wide. The 5 reflectors together in the fixture are setup in an overall parabolic shape. This is done for a few reasons. First, it allows for the fixture to not be as wide. Second is allows for a more uniform spread and mixing of the T5 lamps and this 9.5" wide fixture can light up a 24" wide tank with the fixture sitting directly on top. Our fixtures designed to be directly on top of a tank to maximize the mount of light into the water, although they can be hung too. I hope this clarifies some of the confusion about the fixtures.
Thank you,
Tom
Aquactinics
davejnz
In Memoriam
I agree that your fixtures reflector design would be great at spreading the light as you say.Its just that in order to get maximum penetration from a light source,the light needs to strike the waters surface as close to perpindicular as posible to avoid reflection.This is why the slightly wider(2.5",the size i mentioned above is wrong) SLR's are superior to the other T5 reflectors that have been tested.I would assume that restrike would also play a role with the arrangement/size of the reflectors in your fixture.
MJAnderson
Premium Member
If you look at the Aquactinics site they have a pic of the underside of their lights. The reflectors are set up to be pyramid shaped with the middle bulb higher then the next outer two which are higher than the bottom 2. a fan in the side of the hood cools all 5 bulbs since they are in this pyramid pattern.
Not sure if this is good or bad. The hood is taller than most but narrower, 9.5 x 4.25. I'm guessing the middle bulb is 3" higher than the outer 2. But the whole unit can be placed directly on the top of the tank...no risers.
Not sure if this is good or bad. The hood is taller than most but narrower, 9.5 x 4.25. I'm guessing the middle bulb is 3" higher than the outer 2. But the whole unit can be placed directly on the top of the tank...no risers.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
That reminds me of the reflectors that Aqualine-Buschke has for their T5s. They use a single large reflector that is parabolic, where the front and back bulbs are 2" lower than the middle two, all about 2" apart. Reflector design isnt too complicated really...you can do it on paper if you know your angle geometry...its just that I suppose even when you use single large reflectors like that then the the bulbs can intersect each other's light paths and you lose some efficiency compared to individual reflectors...but having that parabolic reflector still adds alot. Also, there is no way that the single large parabolic can be optimized in every facet for the light angles coming from every bulb...maybe 2 at best.
As far as aquatinics, their design might be an advantage to the usual flat arrangement of individual reflectors. There is a local reflector designer in Milwaukee here that has mentioned to me the benefits of taking those parabolics and adding a slight tilt to the reflectors for more output. That 15degrees is supposed to add up to 15% output going straight downward...if you do the angle geometry, you will see how a majority of the light from many parabolic reflectors is not perpendicular to the orientation of the fixture, but with a split peak at two slight angles to the fixture...like a fork around the bulb...so the slight tilt could be an advantage.
As far as aquatinics, their design might be an advantage to the usual flat arrangement of individual reflectors. There is a local reflector designer in Milwaukee here that has mentioned to me the benefits of taking those parabolics and adding a slight tilt to the reflectors for more output. That 15degrees is supposed to add up to 15% output going straight downward...if you do the angle geometry, you will see how a majority of the light from many parabolic reflectors is not perpendicular to the orientation of the fixture, but with a split peak at two slight angles to the fixture...like a fork around the bulb...so the slight tilt could be an advantage.
da6d2003
New member
t5 switch and not happy
t5 switch and not happy
I just switched from
2x 150w 14k metal halide
2x 96w 50/50 (coralife pro fixture)
2x 55w pc actinics
to
48" tec fixture 6 bulb running
3x Blueplus
2x Aquablue
1x GE Daylight
I'm not happy with the color of the tank and need options before bailing out of t5. Everything seems washed out and white. I have pulled out the daylight and replaced it with an actinic and the colors still don't "pop".
Any help would be appreciated.
David
t5 switch and not happy
I just switched from
2x 150w 14k metal halide
2x 96w 50/50 (coralife pro fixture)
2x 55w pc actinics
to
48" tec fixture 6 bulb running
3x Blueplus
2x Aquablue
1x GE Daylight
I'm not happy with the color of the tank and need options before bailing out of t5. Everything seems washed out and white. I have pulled out the daylight and replaced it with an actinic and the colors still don't "pop".
Any help would be appreciated.
David
David, I love the color of my display 3-Blue+ and 2 aquablue. It depends on what you want as far as color. If you want things to pop better I would go 4Blue+ and 2 aquablues. It will still be bright and the pop will be better. The Pure actinics are OK but just have no PAR so stay with Blue+. The combination I gave you will be on the bluer side and should look real nice. I am experimenting with the bluer spectrum to see how my SPS will react (Color and Growth)
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
What I run to match my pheonix 14,000K is 2xblue+, 2xactinic+, 2xaquablue. Your tank was most likely more like a 20,000K though, with all the actinics you were running with 14,000K halides. For even more blue than my setup, I would only use one aquablue, and then 3xblue+, and 2x UVL superactinics
The top is pheonix 14,000K halide, the bottom is 3x39wattT5. I dont know if you can tell from the photo, but the T5 tank is brighter to the human eye by about 2x.
The top is pheonix 14,000K halide, the bottom is 3x39wattT5. I dont know if you can tell from the photo, but the T5 tank is brighter to the human eye by about 2x.
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