The T5 Q&a Thread

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Well, I finally make my post to grim and he is banned, Mr Murphy hard at work again...

Justin, thanks for your response, I guess you are going to have to pick up the torch for Grim on T5s.

I think you may have misread my question, I was thinking of putting the T5s in the back, where the coral is highest, to sustain a couple of SPS there in the future. The PCs would be at the front (greatest water depth) to allow shrooms and such to grow under less intense light in the front.

I will probably try the mixed PC/T5 setup and I will post pics once I get everything going, probably a couple of weeks. It can't hurt since the PC's are already there anyways.

For the first two T5s should I go with normal or overdriven T5s?

Dave
 
Well typically if there being overdriven, we'd be talking about IC ballasts.If thats the case, youd have more open options down the road either to replace the PC for all T5,or VHO.With a normal driven ballast you can get over driven results if you use a ballast rated for up to 4 lamps but use just 2 and connect all reds to two leads for ea. lamp. But the difference between those is with 4 lamps they wont be overdriven anymore, as opposed to an IC where it will be overdriven for up to four lamps.Depends on what direction you want your tank to go in.

I still think you should put your PC above the shallowest part of your tank and the T5's over your deepest to acheive the most even blanket of light across your tank. Contrary to popular belief PC can grow some beautifull SPS with rich colors,and yes even acros. People get to lost in the concerns with good lighting but lose there zeal for upgrades when it comes to flow in ones tank.IMHO one is just as important as the other. For example Ive seen 250w MH tanks that just looked dismal(barely any flow),and lowly lit PC tanks with eye popping sps(high flow). But seeing is believing.

And as for picking up the reigns,dont think I have as much time on my hands as Grim these days:rolleyes: But like always I periodically chime in;)

-Justin
 
Dave,

Just to add to what Justin said, I would go with all T5 and put lower PAR bulbs such as Blue+ over the part of your tank that you want less PAR. Most people put the blues towards the front to get a bluer look anyway.

Brent
 
When they say aquablue do they mean this bulb 80W Actinic/Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
and when they say blue plus do they mean this one 11000K Aquablue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
Just don't want to order the wrong one's.

Thanks,
Vic
 
aqua blue is 11k(60%blue40%day), actinic plus or blue plus is a mix of actinic and blue spectrum, just the opposite of what was said.

-Justin
 
OK lets try this,

ATI Bulb = ATI Blue. Giesemann Bulb =Actinic/Blue Plus same spectrum
75993Blueplus-thumb.jpg


And

ATI bulb = ATI Aquablue. Giesemann bulb = Aquablue Plus same spectrum
75993Aquablue-thumb.jpg


apologeticus wrote,
Grim's advice was about the only reason I ever come to RC anymore. very sad
You are right about that he is missed.
 
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I have a question. Would 2x54 T5 be okay to start a FOWLR 75g tank. I am looking to have a enough light for the LR for now and add more lighting and corals later. If this is not enough lighting what would be for a 75g w/LR.
 
Pete1399:That would be just fine to support your FOWLR,even a few polyps and shrooms in the upper to mid range.

-Justin
 
Pete,

You could always build a canopy (very easy) and put in the lighting as your budget allows. Unless you need a glass cover for jumpers. That would also save you money on your lighting.
 
REMF has good points.

If you are going to have a glass under the light,of course getting it as close to the glass will be ideal for penetration.But,leave enough room for ventilation,being that close will cause more radiant heat from ballast and bulb to the glass and back to the bulb.So ya,get it as close as you can,but if you do; use a fan.Or, get one ASAP.Not doing so increases the chances of shorter bulb life,and less output.HTH.

-Justin
 
Hey Grim, you are a great reef citizen, your advise is always right on, and you are very patient. This is currently what I am running my 30 gallon:

Back = D&D Pure Actinic
Mid Back = CA 10000K
Mid Front = ATI Blue Plus
Front = D&D Aquablue+

my tank is rock-in! I had to sell all of my softies (just too much light for them IMO) but my LPS's and SPS's are thriving and so is everything else. I am using a workhorse 5 ballast and I just turn my lights on and off (with a timer) so I have no sunrise sunset thing but all looks great. I am going to upgrade (not for awhile) to a 36x18x24 65gallon and I was going to use 1 250 MH (14K, with a Lumenarc III reflector) with 4 T5's, but now I am thinking of just 6 T5's, I use the TEK individual reflectors. What do you think? I will keep LPS and SPS, but more dominated by SPS. Again thanks for all of your input, you rock!

Taylor
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6453744#post6453744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pete1399
Typically, how high are T5s from the glass or water.

3-5 inches with a happy medium being 4 inches from waters surface :) This is more so to avoid damaging the reflectors from salt splash,seeing the importance of the reflector.Lower to one inch with glass,IME watch out on acrylic as the heat will make it bow and warp.

-Justin
 
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