The T5 Q&a Thread

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6976754#post6976754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joeyf
OK, one more question...

I'm thinking I want to go with the Ice Cap 4x54w retro, since it is by far my least expensive option, but if I run 2 blue+ and 2 aquablues what do you think it will look like? A crisp white, or even a slight purple doesn't bother me, cause thats what I'm getting off of my 4x65w PC's. I suppose if I absolutely hate it, I could get a 2x54w tek retro later down the road to add to that.

have you priced a DIY (not tek)retro from aqualuxlighting.com?


i guarantee its cheaper than the icecap, and you cant beat the quality as long as you dont need to overdrive the t5hos. and i really dont see a need ever to overdrive them now. well, unless you want sps all the way at the bottom of your tank. and then you would more than likely have lps/shroom keeping problems then

 

[joeyf]

Thanks for the answers

For my tank, here's what I gather-

4x54 NOT overdriven won't be enough for what I want.

4x54w overdriven or 6x54w NOT overdriven will be enough, but the 4x will be whiter.

I priced a 6x on aqualux, and it came to $286+ shipping. I would then need about another $20 in wiring parts that they don't carry, plus bulbs from reefgeek come out to be an additional $120+ shipping. For a total of $426+ shipping.

Reefgeek has a 6x tek setup for $461 shipped with bulbs. I would prefer to use the triad ballasts that this uses vs. the WH that the aqualux uses, for bulb longevity reasons.

The 4x ice cap setup with bulbs is $367 shipped from reefgeek.

 

[Toledofishguy]

My brain hurts from thumbing thru this thread.

I have a 120 (48X24X24) I am setting up next month. Based on my reading, I thinking I am going to go with the TEK Light fixture. Would the 6X54 watt fixture be enough light to grow softies and some misc others light frogspawn, torch.....? I was thinking of going with the 48" Tek Light: 6-54W T5 from Reefgeek using the mounting legs.

 

[BigEasy]

Joey,
If you go with Icecap ballast, you may be able to save money buying the Aqualux reflectors. The reflectors are about equal in PAR measurements using same set ups, and aqualux is about $3 cheaper per reflector. Not much, but would save you $12-$18.

If you go with the Tek, I would definitely look into going with the aqualux reflectors. I have both Tek and aqualux, and aqualux wins hands down for reflectors.

I would still go with a 6 bulb set up. If you really want to do this up right, do a 6 bulb set up with the middle 4 bulbs of Aquable and GE sun on a Icecap 660 and the outer 2 bulbs as Actinic + on an Icecap 430 (or another normal driven ballast). If I were just starting with a retro, that is how I would do it. Looking back, that is exactly what I wish I would have done on my 90 instead of the Tek.

Best of luck.
Steve

 

[BigEasy]

Toledofishguy
It would work, but just know you would have a fixture that has a lighting area of about 11.5 inches across. Meaning you would have a fairly low light area in the front and back (or one versus other depending on how you center the fixture). It would allow you to grow alot of lower light stuff in the uncovered areas as they would get indirect light and allow for things like Euphyllia and others under the covered area.

Depending on where you want to end up with this 120, you may want to consider the 8x54w fixture. Would give you better coverage, and with proper photoacclimation you can still grow all of the same things and more.

Hope that helps
Steve

 

[joeyf]

Thanks

I think that for now I'm going to get the icecap 660 retro with 4x54w. Its a kit that reefgeek sells. I'm going to use the icecap reflectors that it comes with.

Later down the road, once I have some more cash to spare for my tank, I will get another 2x54w run on triad ballasts, and probably icecap reflectors (for uniformity). The reason I can't go 6x now is cause I still have to do my canopy, and that is going to cost the same amount as going to the 6x vs the Icecap 4x now.

I will most likely do this config for now on the icecap:

blue+
aquablue
aquablue
blue+

then once I add the triad, I will run that with the blue+ on the outsides like this:

blue+
aquablue
GE daylight
aquablue
aquablue
blue+

 

[Giray GÃœN]

Hi everbody,
I have got aquamedic 4*39w t5 lights my tank is 100cm*45cm*60cm(h) i want to montipora, bubbelcoral and hammercoral the light system is enough??

 

[emoore]

I want to get a T5 retro kit for my 29 gallon. I was thinking of the Sunlight supply 4 x 24W. I am mainly interested in keeping LPS. Should I go with the normal sunlight supply ballast or the Icecap? Also what bulbs should I get? Reefgeek recommends 1 sun, 1 aquablue and 2 blue+. Is that good or should I get 2 aquablues instead? Thanks.

 

[Toledofishguy]

BigEasy,

Thanks for your advice. I'll probably spend the extra 100 bucks and get the 8X54 fixture.

 

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6981849#post6981849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Giray GÃÅ"œN
Hi everbody,
I have got aquamedic 4*39w t5 lights my tank is 100cm*45cm*60cm(h) i want to montipora, bubbelcoral and hammercoral the light system is enough??

i am not too familiar with aquamedic t5s, but i doubt they ahve individual parabolic reflectors. thats fine though, the montipora is the most light demanding of the corals you listed, and they really dont need that much light. you should be fine

 

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6984940#post6984940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by emoore
I want to get a T5 retro kit for my 29 gallon. I was thinking of the Sunlight supply 4 x 24W. I am mainly interested in keeping LPS. Should I go with the normal sunlight supply ballast or the Icecap? Also what bulbs should I get? Reefgeek recommends 1 sun, 1 aquablue and 2 blue+. Is that good or should I get 2 aquablues instead? Thanks.

4x24 is probably too much light, really for a 29 with lps in it. you definitely could easily get away with 3x24, or maybe 2x24 for lps. definitely do not get the icecap ballast for that tank in either case, it will be too much light, esp running 4 bulbs.

i have 3x39 non overdriven on my 35g tank, and its really too much for lps. i have to keep mine down low....

 

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6977070#post6977070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joeyf
Thanks for the answers

For my tank, here's what I gather-

4x54 NOT overdriven won't be enough for what I want.

4x54w overdriven or 6x54w NOT overdriven will be enough, but the 4x will be whiter.

I priced a 6x on aqualux, and it came to $286+ shipping. I would then need about another $20 in wiring parts that they don't carry, plus bulbs from reefgeek come out to be an additional $120+ shipping. For a total of $426+ shipping.

Reefgeek has a 6x tek setup for $461 shipped with bulbs. I would prefer to use the triad ballasts that this uses vs. the WH that the aqualux uses, for bulb longevity reasons.

The 4x ice cap setup with bulbs is $367 shipped from reefgeek.

aqualux has everything you need, and if you dont want to use the workhorse ballasts, they carry advance program start ballasts. aqualux will price match reefgeek, so why bother going to 2 different vendors, and paying 2x for shipping?

btw, the workhorse ballast will not reduce the lifespan of t5ho in aquarium use- i have a 3x39 retro run on one w5 ballast, and the bulbs have 15 months of trouble free lighting on them.....the icecap ballast, yeah it will reduce lifespan of the bulbs. theres a guy here on RC that has a PAR meter and an icecap driven t5 setup, and it does reduce the life of the bulbs.

 

[joeyf]

But have you checked the par levels on your 15 month old T5s?

Also, from what I understand, the icecap adjusts the output based age or something like that... I don't know the specifics, but I have read that it adjusts things so that the bulb life is not sacrificed by overdriving it.

 

[Justin74]

reefgeek.com should be first mentioned due to a history of primo customer service,low prices, and first and foremost there a sponsor to RC.Actively contributing to our hobby.

Dont get me wrong, Im a bargain shopper if there ever was one (ya to a fault too )but its just good etiquette to put them first on the RC boards opposed to a company that doesnt sponsor RC for a comparible priced item.

-Justin

 

[horkn]

i hear you justin. but aqualux has everything and more than reefgeek does as far as what they sell.. product, price, and customer service.
aqualux only sells t5ho stuff. they specialize in it.

maybe when aqualux gets bigger, they will become a sponsor.

as far as par levels, well, i dont worry about that. my corals grow as fast as they did when the lights were new.

i know of someone with a PAR meter, i may have to do readings now and after i get new bulbs for grins...

 

[joeyf]

Now, I thought of another question (as I duck for cover from objects being thrown at me )

Being that the IceCap overdrives the bulbs, does that mean that it is using more wattage? If so, anyone know how much?

 

[horkn]

yep it uses more wattage, and apparently shortens the lifespan of the bulbs compared to regularly driving them. this is according to guys here on RC that have tested their light setups with PAR meters to determine how much if any decrease in PAR is over the months..


since you have a 90g tank, i can assume you would be wondering about how much the 54w t5ho are overdriven to with an icecap..

that would be right around 80w per 54w bulb...

 

[Squiddy]

I've been running a Sunlight 6x54W T5 retro kit from ReefGeek with 1 Sun, 2 AquaBlue+ and 3 Actinic+ bulbs since the end of January, and my mushrooms and zoos haven't been all that happy (shriveled and curled aroud the edges). I've got my mushrooms right down at the bottom of the tank and I have tried my zoos mid-top and neither the zoos nor the mushrooms look anywhere near as good as they did with my 260W of 2 year old PCs.

My question is with regard to the Actinic+ bulbs and the neccessity of having proper actinic bulbs for the corals. I noticed that the Actinic+ bulbs are very blue, and not the typical actinic colour that I am used to. Should I have chosen the Pure Actinic bulbs instead of the Actinic+ bulbs?

Btw... I'm 99% it is my lights causing the problem with my zoos and mushrooms. My tank parameters are happy and as soon as I put the zoos in my gf's nano with PC lighting, they come out in full force.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[joeyf]

Hmm, I read that the IceCap does something to maintain bulb life. WOW! 80w, if thats accurate (which it is probably close) is a lot.

Squiddy or anyone else, would you suggest that I start off with a 4x54w tek retro then (vs. the IceCap)? Then if thats not enough, go with an additional 2x54 later? I know someone is still going to reccomend aqualux, but I would prefer to support a company that supports us (through RC sponsorship), and they also have great reviews. Not saying aqualux doesn't, but I haven't seen a lot on them.

It sounds like a 4x54w not overdriven setup would be fine for what I want now that a few people with similar setups to mine are chiming in.

 

[Justin74]

Squiddy I know what your goin through. Most of my zoos are now on the bottom cept for a few up top but the ones that are happiest are partly shaded. Mushrooms seem happiest on the bottom as well or under the canopy of something else.Although my true blue shrooms just really pop and have shown the least of any contempt for the brightness.

I think swapping a actinic+ for a true actinic wouldnt be a bad idea since you have 3 already. Youll see a subtle purple hue amongst all the blue and youll notice it flouresce the greens like you may be use to.The blues are nice for making the reds pop out though .Although I have no measurements to back it up, Ive convinced myself that more spectrum specific bulbs is a good thing.Seems like it would provide a more rich overall spectrum. For example if I had a choice between 1 actinic and a 6500k or just one 10k, Id go with the actinic and 6500k,call me wierd.

-Justin