The T5 Q&a Thread

[horkn]

the 6000k day bulb would be the ati day bulb.

sunlight supply doesn't make bulbs...and many places sell the ati gieseman or whatever they are this week bulbs...but i cant imagine many people buy the ati 6000k bulb when the GE is better all around, and less money in addition than the ati day bulb

 

[Justin74]

Your absolutely right, was recalling from memory and the "sun" through me off.Thanks for the correction.

-Justin

 

[horkn]

i knew what you meant, and you knew what you meant as well. i just wanted others to know what you meant

know what i mean?:rollface:

 

[BigOrangeDog]

Well after reading a lot of pages of the thread, I have become extremely knowledgeable in the world of T5's.

However, I wish to go over my setup with someone. I got this setup from an earlier post somewhere in the first 10 or so pages.

Or for a slightly more blue look

Front

Blueplus
Blueplus
Aquablue
GE
GE
Aquablue
Blueplus
Blueplus

This is going into a 120 Gal. (48L x 24W x 24H) tank. Basically going to eventually keep Hard Corals, Anemones, Urchans, Mushrooms, and Feather Dusters...oh and of coarse fish.

Will this setup work for me? Should I run different lights on different schedules (like 4 on and 4 off)? And about how far away from the water should the light be?

Thank you for all the assistance.

 

[horkn]

it will probably work just fine.

run the lights anywhere form 2-6" off the water.

 

[Justin74]

Hey nice set up dog, with care to certain light tolerances of certain coral youll be able to house all those things. With my 6 bulb combo I still just run 2 for dawn/dusk and is plenty of light with the blue+ bulbs and I get all the neat flourescing that youd anticipate. You may be happy with just runnin 3 bulbs instead of 4. Youll find out when you try

Another thing to consider is blocks of spectrum differences. I remember one guy complaining how he could see the rows of color difference, with your setup you would easily alleviate this with blending the colors to every other one rather than 2 of each before the next. But then again you never know till you try

Heres some eye candy of just 2 bulbs runnin

Regardless, you definately got the light covered, best of luck

-Justin

 

[Ashman1]

I'm ordering an 8 bulb T-5 Retro next week and plan almost the same lights over my 120. I think I'm going to go with just 1 GE though instead of 2 (I can always change it if i don't like the look. I think that's what appeals to me most about a T-5 Set-up. If change your mind just keep the swapped out bulb till next time to replace)

 

[dc_909]

bump

 

[Fishy1]

I just finished reading through this entire thread, whew! I have two questions I hope someone can answer for me.......I have just purchased a 120 gallon tank (4'x2'x2') and hope to use T5 lighting. My intention is to combine two smaller tanks and their occupants into the new tank. My 55 gallon has a Tek light 4 bulb unit and my 29 has a 150 watt DE MH tank mount fixture. I have mushrooms, zoos, LPS, and a few SPS in the tanks. I also have a carpet and bubble tip anemone......My question is this, would I need an 8 bulb Tek, or a 6? Has anyone successfully kept a carpet under T5 lighting? If not, would I be better off using a Coralife or Current USA MH/PC unit? Thanks for your help......

fishy1

 

[maynor]

Hello every one,

HELP PLEASE!!

After reading all this thread and all the different stories, results and opinions, I would like to ask you if you could please correct me if I am wrong and also give me your opinion on the choices I am looking at. I thank you in advance for your help!

1. Watt per Watt do T5s produce as much PAR as Metal Halides (asuming same K bulb rating to make it easier, like say an XM10k and the equivalent in a T5 bulb like Aquablue plus)?

For what I have understood, T5s produce more PAR watt per watt then what metal halides do.



2. An XM10k bulb can do fine for 18months on an IC ballast. Can T5 bulbs also last that long? (I do understand that color and PAR output will decrease with usage).

For what I have understood, T5s can only be used for 12 months if that, and then they need to be replaced.



The reason I ask is because I am trying to decide between to set ups.

Set up A: 2x250w XM 10k SE bulbs in Luminarc3 reflectos ran by 2 250w IceCap ballasts. Total Price for unit $650 (bulbs included)

Set up B: 6x80W Aquablue plus SLS-Tek retro ran by 2 IceCap 660 ballasts. Total price for unit $650 (bulbs included)


3. In setup B, will the two 660 ballasts be overdriving those bulbs for a total of 880 watts of power? I see that the 660 IceCap ballast can produce or should I say can suck up as much as 440 watts each for a total of 880 watts. I hope this is making sense.
I am asking this because out of setup A (the metal halide set up) I can expect to pay MR/MRS Electric company 500 watts when the set up is on, but how about this T5 set up. Can I expect to pay MR/MRS Electric company 480 watts for the 6-80watt bulbs or will the 2-660 ballast automatically overdrive/sucking-up a total of 880 watts when the set up is on?

This will be for a 90% sps, 5% zoanthids, 5% LPS tank.
Dimensions will be 60"Lx24"Wx24"T or 60"Lx18"Wx24"T


I plan to have this set up for at least 3 years because after spending this money I may not be able to even buy socks. LOL
In a 3yr period I can expect to replace the 2MH bulbs twice for a total of $780 (setup plus 2 extra/replacement bulbs at MD). But how often should I change the bulbs on the T5s, so I can have my bottom line for the 3yr period (setup plus extra/replacement bulbs from RG)?

I really value your opinion and greatly appreciate your time and help, so I can get this thing done right from the beginning.

Thank you!!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7263266#post7263266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishy1
I just finished reading through this entire thread, whew! I have two questions I hope someone can answer for me.......I have just purchased a 120 gallon tank (4'x2'x2') and hope to use T5 lighting. My intention is to combine two smaller tanks and their occupants into the new tank. My 55 gallon has a Tek light 4 bulb unit and my 29 has a 150 watt DE MH tank mount fixture. I have mushrooms, zoos, LPS, and a few SPS in the tanks. I also have a carpet and bubble tip anemone......My question is this, would I need an 8 bulb Tek, or a 6? Has anyone successfully kept a carpet under T5 lighting? If not, would I be better off using a Coralife or Current USA MH/PC unit? Thanks for your help......

fishy1

With 2 Anemones I think I would go halides. The higher intensity light is more focused so it might discourage the anemones from moving around too much. I'd stick with 250 watt lamps. With T5's once you have enough light for the anemones it will be even across the tank so they would be more apt to move around.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7263493#post7263493 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maynor
Hello every one,

HELP PLEASE!!

After reading all this thread and all the different stories, results and opinions, I would like to ask you if you could please correct me if I am wrong and also give me your opinion on the choices I am looking at. I thank you in advance for your help!

1. Watt per Watt do T5s produce as much PAR as Metal Halides (asuming same K bulb rating to make it easier, like say an XM10k and the equivalent in a T5 bulb like Aquablue plus)?

For what I have understood, T5s produce more PAR watt per watt then what metal halides do.



2. An XM10k bulb can do fine for 18months on an IC ballast. Can T5 bulbs also last that long? (I do understand that color and PAR output will decrease with usage).

For what I have understood, T5s can only be used for 12 months if that, and then they need to be replaced.



The reason I ask is because I am trying to decide between to set ups.

Set up A: 2x250w XM 10k SE bulbs in Luminarc3 reflectos ran by 2 250w IceCap ballasts. Total Price for unit $650 (bulbs included)

Set up B: 6x80W Aquablue plus SLS-Tek retro ran by 2 IceCap 660 ballasts. Total price for unit $650 (bulbs included)


3. In setup B, will the two 660 ballasts be overdriving those bulbs for a total of 880 watts of power? I see that the 660 IceCap ballast can produce or should I say can suck up as much as 440 watts each for a total of 880 watts. I hope this is making sense.
I am asking this because out of setup A (the metal halide set up) I can expect to pay MR/MRS Electric company 500 watts when the set up is on, but how about this T5 set up. Can I expect to pay MR/MRS Electric company 480 watts for the 6-80watt bulbs or will the 2-660 ballast automatically overdrive/sucking-up a total of 880 watts when the set up is on?

This will be for a 90% sps, 5% zoanthids, 5% LPS tank.
Dimensions will be 60"Lx24"Wx24"T or 60"Lx18"Wx24"T


I plan to have this set up for at least 3 years because after spending this money I may not be able to even buy socks. LOL
In a 3yr period I can expect to replace the 2MH bulbs twice for a total of $780 (setup plus 2 extra/replacement bulbs at MD). But how often should I change the bulbs on the T5s, so I can have my bottom line for the 3yr period (setup plus extra/replacement bulbs from RG)?

I really value your opinion and greatly appreciate your time and help, so I can get this thing done right from the beginning.

Thank you!!

If you run the T5's you need to run 2 or 3 fans blowing across the lamps to keep them from getting too hot. For a 90% SPS tank I would change lamps at a year or so but I think you could get 18 months out of either. One thing about the T5's is that you could change out a lamp a month after a year so you don't hit your corals with a sudden increase in intensity or change of spectrum all at once. By the 18th month you would have all your lamps changed and then start again after the 24th month.

 

[Fishy1]

Thanks for the reply, Grimm........Would the Coralife 250 watt DE MH unit be okay? It comes with 2 96 watt actinics. Or, Seedsetc. has this unit:

MARISTAR HIGH OUTPUT HQI T5 COMBO 4 FT KIT COMPLETE SYSTEM
Maristar Features:

New combination fixture HQI + T5 High Output Fluorescents
Rust proof aluminum body
Reef Optix Design Reflectors fo highest output in its class (Joshi et al, 2003)
Exclusive Tek Reflector for T5 Lights increase output by over 300%
Reflectors utilize 95% reflective German aluminum
Major brand electronic ballast for the T5 lamps & magnetic MH ballasts
Lamp and power cords separate for maximum controllability
Sleek profile only 4.25 inches high by 13.75 inches wide


80mm fans are quiet and cool fixture through unique design
Inlcudes tempered UV protected glass shield
Utilizes Remote Blue Wave 7 HQI Ballast for low weight and reduced heat
Powder coated finish and stainless fasteners for long life
Comes with German made lamps
2 year warranty on Maristar System, 2 year on Blue Wave Ballasts


The 4 ft Maristar Complete kit comes with the complete light fixture and:

Blue Wave 7 Dual MH 250 Watt HQI
2 each 48 inch True Actinic 54 watt T5 Actinic lamps
2 each 10K Double Ended MH 250 watt HQI

 

[maynor]

Mr Grim,

First of all, thank you for your opinion!

So when you say to "run 2 or 3 fans blowing across the lamps to keep them from getting too hot" is this because they are in fact being over driven by the IceCaps and the set up is actually using 880 watts of electricity?

Thank you!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

The coral life would work but the Maristar is one of the best. If it is in the budget I'd spend the dough for it.

 

[Justin74]

Good job maynor, youve definately done your homework I would suspect your electric bill would be in favor of the halide setup though. And if your trying to pack a punch with lights you'll get that with both setups. When Grimreefer did his comparisons they were definately not with the luminarcs. The luminarcs do for MH what IC reflectors' do for T5 and create an excellent footprint perfect for aquaria use as it encompasses a nice 2X2ft sqare area. There be several differences though. You wont have an even spread of intensity like the T5's and youll have high points of intensity with the MH and a beautifull shimmer to boot. The drawback with the luminarcs is they also ecompass your entire canopy making it hard to put any supplement lighting. So, theres a few things to weigh out, regardless both will be very bright with those two setups I cant really favor one over the other though. If you chose to go with the Luminarc you may want to consider a more higher kelvin rating if you dont have the room to add supplements.

As far as the life of the bulbs, 18 months on an XM is news to me. I was under the general assumption that MH bulbs were good for no more than a year at best, usually being swapped out every 9months or so. With the T5 theres no reason you shouldnt get at least a year (provided you do have a fan on the bulbs) The manufacture will rate these good for between 18-24 months, but should be replaced to sustain good par ratings between 12-18.

I hope that helps a lil bit,call on me anytime maynor

-Justin

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7263979#post7263979 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maynor
Mr Grim,

First of all, thank you for your opinion!

So when you say to "run 2 or 3 fans blowing across the lamps to keep them from getting too hot" is this because they are in fact being over driven by the IceCaps and the set up is actually using 880 watts of electricity?

Thank you!

First off my Daddy wasn't even Mr. Grim

The lamps are overdriven to about 100 watts each. the ballasts will use 305 watts each or close to that. The lamps get hotter when overdriven.

 

[Justin74]

Wow! Exhiled into purgitory and back to tell the tale! Right on grim!Welcome back

-Justin

 

[Fishy1]

Is the "Seeds" complete unit a good one? I'm not up on choosing my own ballasts and bulbs like on some sites that offer this fixture, so if I order theirs would I be happy and most of all "safe"?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

The Maristar is made by Sunlight Supply, very good stuff. The only thing I would suggest is ordering an actinic plus lamp to use in the front T5 slot on the fixture. The Actinic T5 is a purplish light that fluoresces green pretty good but not much else. The actinic plus is a very cool blue that fluoresces red and blues pretty good but not greens, the combo looks nicer.

If I had an unlimited budget for halides I would go for the 2400.00 halide system Geismann has (computer controled lunar phase moon lights and such), the Maristar would be second on my list.