The T5 Q&a Thread

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LOL

Well we'll give you two choices, see choices are good, is either Mr. Grim sir or Grim dude. LOL
Just kidding, but I do thank you for your help.

So now that I am clear on the 660's specifics (the set up will consume 610 watts when is on), Would a Tek 6x54 or 8x54 hood that doesn't OD its bulbs because it uses Triad ballasts be strong enough for my tank and inhabitants?

Thank you!
 
Justing,

I see you here, nice to have you on the table. We are abusing Grim right now in case you would like to help him. LOL
 
Thanks again for the help:) Do you think heat will be an issue? I was planning on using the mounting legs over glass tops. If so, I could find a home for the anemones and use a 150 watt DE MH fixture.......or would that make much difference. I don't want to invest in a chiller!

Janey
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264071#post7264071 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishy1
Thanks again for the help:) Do you think heat will be an issue? I was planning on using the mounting legs over glass tops. If so, I could find a home for the anemones and use a 150 watt DE MH fixture.......or would that make much difference. I don't want to invest in a chiller!

Janey

As long as your house doesn't get too hot you should be OK. You plan on a sump? A fan running acrossed the top of the sump will help cool things down. Running the glass tops on the tank will increase the tempature.
 
Yes, I'll have a sump and I can use a fan too.......should I ditch the glass lids? Thought they would be good to protect the fixture from salt spray......maybe I don't need them if I use the mounting legs......what would you do? We run the air conditioning at 74 degrees.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264057#post7264057 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maynor
LOL

Well we'll give you two choices, see choices are good, is either Mr. Grim sir or Grim dude. LOL
Just kidding, but I do thank you for your help.

So now that I am clear on the 660's specifics (the set up will consume 610 watts when is on), Would a Tek 6x54 or 8x54 hood that doesn't OD its bulbs because it uses Triad ballasts be strong enough for my tank and inhabitants?

Thank you!

for SPS........ You could order an 8 lamp tek system from reefgeek but upgrade to Ice Cap reflectors for 5 bucks a peice. I would run 3 GE daylights and what ever other lamps gets you the look you want. I would try to keep the SPS in the upper 2/3rds or so of the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264115#post7264115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishy1
Yes, I'll have a sump and I can use a fan too.......should I ditch the glass lids? Thought they would be good to protect the fixture from salt spray......maybe I don't need them if I use the mounting legs......what would you do? We run the air conditioning at 74 degrees.

Loose the lids, even when clean they will cut out 18 to 22% of the light getting to the tank. The fixture will have a glass UV sheild that will protect the halides from spray. I wouldn't expect you to have that issue with the fixture on legs.
 
Do you think I will have trouble with fish jumping? I could probably use eggcrate or would MH melt it? You mentioned getting an actinic plus for the front of the fixture.....is that the actinic/blue plus bulb? Sorry for all the questions....think I'm about doneLOL!!
 
Wowww, you got me here Grim!

OK, I am clear that the choice would be the 8x54w hood, but are you saying that Reefgeek will remove the SLS reflectors and will put in IC in there intead for an extra $5 a piece?

I hope I didn't make this too confusing. I am talking about the hood and no longer the retrofit kit. RG will swap reflectors in a Tek light? If I got it right, that's really cool!

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104194.html

Sorry I wasn't able to post a picture, but the link should give it.

And just to show you that I have been paying attention when you write, the GE are the ones that produce the most PAR and that is why you are suggesting them. Ha!

Again, thank you for every thing!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264144#post7264144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishy1
Do you think I will have trouble with fish jumping? I could probably use eggcrate or would MH melt it? You mentioned getting an actinic plus for the front of the fixture.....is that the actinic/blue plus bulb? Sorry for all the questions....think I'm about doneLOL!!

Depends on the fish you plan, there are known jumpers. Eggcrate should be fine as long as the fixture is far enough away but that is one of those things you have to actually check once things are up and running. I would think if the fixture is at least 5" away the eggcreate should be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264204#post7264204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maynor
Wowww, you got me here Grim!

OK, I am clear that the choice would be the 8x54w hood, but are you saying that Reefgeek will remove the SLS reflectors and will put in IC in there intead for an extra $5 a piece?

I hope I didn't make this too confusing. I am talking about the hood and no longer the retrofit kit. RG will swap reflectors in a Tek light? If I got it right, that's really cool!

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/lighting/104194.html

Sorry I wasn't able to post a picture, but the link should give it.

And just to show you that I have been paying attention when you write, the GE are the ones that produce the most PAR and that is why you are suggesting them. Ha!

Again, thank you for every thing!

Opps, no he doesn't do reflectors in the hoods. With a Tek light I would be a little careful about how low in the tank you put the high light SPS if you want good growth but you should still be fine.
 
Last question, I promise:) If I should decide to not have anemones in the tank would the T5 8 bulb Tek light be your choice for my system? Thanks so much for your help!!!

Janey
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7265077#post7265077 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishy1
Last question, I promise:) If I should decide to not have anemones in the tank would the T5 8 bulb Tek light be your choice for my system? Thanks so much for your help!!!

Janey

It depends, (You had to know I was going to say that:D)

If you are doing a mixed reef, lower light softies, Shrooms, LPS, High light acros, halides are better because you get varied light intensities across the tank. That allows you to place a high light coral on the rocks near the top but if you move between the lamps where there is less intensity you can keep a less light hungry critter happy at the same level in the tank. With T5's you have to keep all the lower light critters towards the bottom and the high light stuff above. If you are concerned about heat and power usage T5's are the way to go. If those are not a consideration then it comes down to which lighting you like best.
 
I'm switching from 250w halides. What's ideal for a 75 gallon SPS tank? I was thinking TEK 6x54. Should I do an IC ballast and IC reflectors? Will the stock retro be fine? I want to do it right the first time. Heat is a major issue for me. Thanks!!!
 
6x54 will work great, and you dont need to overdrive them on a tank like a 75, well, unless you want sps all the way to the bottom of the tank. i would get the IC reflectors over the tek reflectors for 2 reasons.
1) the teks stain too easily from salt spray/ creep,
2) the IC are much better for PAR than the Teks


the aqualux CDRs are just as good as the IC, and cost less, , but are wider, so i dont think you could fit 6 of them on a 75. You could mix and match reflectors if you want to.
 
I'd do the Ice Cap reflector upgrade on a standard TEK retro from reefgeek. I dont think you would have a problem keeping SPS on the sand with 6 lamps with IC reflectors. I don't think you could squeeze 6 CD reflectors over that tank.
 
The Ice Cap reflectors start gaining an advantage over the Aqualux ones after about 16". At about 21" (sensor 18" under water, lamps 3" above) Ice Cap beat them 31 to 29 or something like that. I would assume the advantage will grow as you move further away due to the tighter focus of the IC.
 
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