The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7594261#post7594261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Justin74
Must depend on the morph on its individual tolerance to intense light? My teal w/ purple centers were on the brink of extinction as well till I got them out from under the T5's. My zombie eyes seem indifferent and spread well regardless of what light there under, so it definately depends on something. But still feel that saying zoos and T5's = caution.

-Justin

i have 7 varieties of zoos, and all do fine under t5ho.

also, a local in my reef club has a nice hobbyist coral propogation setup, and will agree that t5ho and zoos do well together. i know he has at least 4 times more (i bet a lot more) types of zoos than i have.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7594798#post7594798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
i have 7 varieties of zoos, and all do fine under t5ho.

also, a local in my reef club has a nice hobbyist coral propogation setup, and will agree that t5ho and zoos do well together. i know he has at least 4 times more (i bet a lot more) types of zoos than i have.

Then it's officiall! Zoos love T5's! :D

I guess our collective experiences were just figmants of our imagination...:rolleyes:


-Justin
 
My tank is absolutely overrun with Zoas under T5 lighting. They have spread like the plague and it is a real problem since they have taken over much of my LR. I may be setting up a new tank and will never put Zoas where they can spread like that again. I'll keep them isolated to a small island.
 
Btw, I have 8 morphs 3 of which were affected negatively, the rest either showed mild or no signs. The fact that theyre were a few though, and shared experiences made it worthy of me mentioning.

-Justin
 
Dont get me wrong, when I had a a T5 fixture w/ out individual reflectors ALL my softies and zoanthids grew exceptionally well. But, when I upgraded my bulbs and reflectors thats when some of my stuff burnt up, and ended up moving the majority of my zoos to the sandbed.

-Justin
 
There have a lot of reports of people having issues with softies under T5's as well as a lot of tanks without problems. There is a whole thread somewhere about T5's vaporizing softies. Like many things in this hobby there is no set formula for when problems/success might occur.

I'm sure it comes down to many variables.
Bulbs
Reflectors
Ballast
Depth of tank
How high are the lights over the tank?
Species/Morph
Coral placement
Etc, etc, etc...
 
<<< I'm sure it comes down to many variables.
Bulbs
Reflectors
Ballast
Depth of tank
How high are the lights over the tank?
Species/Morph
Coral placement
Etc, etc, etc... >>>


Exactly! In addition:

Water clarity

Acrylic shield or no

Salt spray on acrylic shield and/or reflectors


I expect there could be a significant difference (assuming the same fixture and bulbs) if one person has them mounted 8-10" off the water with an acrylic shield and some salt spray on the shield, and another has them only 2-3" off the water with no shield and perfectly clean reflectors and bulbs. I think the water clarity makes a big difference too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7595206#post7595206 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brentp
Like many things in this hobby there is no set formula for when problems/success might occur.

I'm sure it comes down to many variables.
Bulbs
Reflectors
Ballast
Depth of tank
How high are the lights over the tank?
Species/Morph
Coral placement
Etc, etc, etc...

Very eloquently put, couldnt've said it better, although I was trying ,thnks;)

-Justin
 
For a 90G, 24" deep tank would a 4x54 icecap overdriven or 4x54 tek retro be appropriate, i'm thinking the normally driven 4x54 tek and then add 2 more bulbs if i want sps,clams? which is better?
 
IME, there is one thing about T5s a few of us in WRS say all the time...zoas will grow like weeds. For some reason, they seem to really grow better under T5s for some people than they ever did under halides. As far as rics, well, yeah...Bill (gopack) had to remove all his rics from his 120g (2x250wattDE + 4x54wattT5) and put them in his 6'x3'x14"h acrylic frag vat. Problem was, the vat is lit at one end by a 8x54wattT5, and the other end by a 250wattDE halide...so he had to put them under the halide end or they continued to wither.

I think that the few corals that dont like T5s would be fine if the tank they were in was simply taller (24" tall tank or more), or had less T5s.
 
Justin, I assume you aclimated the softies to the new light's? I ask because I was told that it might be a good thing for me to do when my light get's here. I am always parnoid of getting the wrong thing, and after reading this little two page debate, I am wondering If this 8X39w tek light that is on it's way to me is too much for my 50 Gallon w/a maximum depth of 12" from water line to sandbed. I would be highly ticked if I couldn't use it.
 
GFCI issues

GFCI issues

I bought a 4-bulb 48'' retrofit kit from Reefgeek. It contains 4 Sunlight reflectors, and 2 Universal Triad ballasts.

Wired & installed per instructions. Lights look great. I've got the actinics on the outside, the daylight bulbs on the inside.

I can run either set (2 bulbs in any combination) alone without any issues. As soon as I turn on both sets at the same time, my GFCI outlet trips. Sometimes within seconds, sometimes it takes 10-15 minutes.

I am running a dedicated 20 amp circuit. I've also tested it on 2 other GFCI circuits. Same issue. I've tested the 2 lights on separate circuits. The ones on GFCI circuit trip it, no matter which lights/ballast I plug in.

If I run the lights without the GFCI outlet everything seems to be fine - lights are good and I don't blow any breakers.

I tried changing the ballasts for new ones, changing out the bulbs, rotating bulbs, etc. Confirmed my wiring, ensured I have no shorts.

I've talked with Greg at ReefGeek. He's been helpful to suggest many alternatives that I tried. Still tripping the GFCI. Would anyone have a suggestion as to what to try next or why I'm having this issue?

Peter...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7596123#post7596123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wagnertim
Justin, I assume you aclimated the softies to the new light's? I ask because I was told that it might be a good thing for me to do when my light get's here. I am always parnoid of getting the wrong thing, and after reading this little two page debate, I am wondering If this 8X39w tek light that is on it's way to me is too much for my 50 Gallon w/a maximum depth of 12" from water line to sandbed. I would be highly ticked if I couldn't use it.

Wow! 12" depth w/ 8 bulbs is ALOT of light my friend:eek: I highly recommend a lotion of at least 30SPF for your softies :cool:

Just to give you an idea, I have a few SPS on my sand bed w/ great color and growth and have a 6X39w retro, and Ive only been using 5 of the 6 bulbs for the past 4 months!

BTW, ya I did acclimate them, but only by one bulb at a time so it wasnt the best method because I didnt have access to eggcrate,nor could I adjust the heigth. Some would react differently but recieve similar conditions and be within 2 inches of eachother, so go figure.



-Justin
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7594671#post7594671 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106
What would give a 15Kelvin ISH look

2 Gmann Blue+
1 GE65K
1 UVL(URI) 50/50 T5

or

2 Gmann Blue+
1 GE6500K
1 UVL(URI) T5 Actinic

or

2 Gmann Blue+
2 UVL(URI) T5 50/50


All bulbs in INDVIS REFLECTORS

I'd do

1 Gmann Actinic Plus
2 Gmann Aquablue
1 UVL Super Actinic
 
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