The T5 Q&a Thread

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I have a 96" and I have been going round and round on what lighting to get. The only thing I want to keep is an anemone. I know there arent t5 that long. I want to use Icecap reflectors and ballests, what would be the best lenghts to get? 2 48" or 1 60" staggered and a 36" staggered? Would it just be better to use 3 or 4 250w MH?

Chris
 
I have a 96" and I have been going round and round on what lighting to get. The only thing I want to keep is an anemone. I know there arent t5 that long. I want to use Icecap reflectors and ballests, what would be the best lenghts to get? 2 48" or 1 60" staggered and a 36" staggered ( I want to use the 6 bulb set ups)? Would it just be better to use 3 or 4 250w MH?

Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7904480#post7904480 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
yamaha, add 2 ati actinic +, and 2 UV super actinics. i would think that would work quite well, but if its too blue, substitute a aquablue for one of the super actinics or Actinic+

what about if i go with giesemann 2 actinic+, 1 aquablue+, and 1 midday 6k. also is the 6k around the same par as GE 65K
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7909429#post7909429 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yamaha racer
what about if i go with giesemann 2 actinic+, 1 aquablue+, and 1 midday 6k. also is the 6k around the same par as GE 65K

ne body i need to know.....grim, horkin anybody? help me out
 
hey guys, i hate to be the bearer of an already exausted question but i just cant bring my self to read the 100+ pages of this thread.......

i will be getting a 120 gal (4x2x2) tank soon and im looking around for my best lighting options.
i currently have a 65 gal (3Lx1.5dx2h) with a 400 watt retro-fit on it and would like to use it on my new tank if possible. (i just bought a new blue line ballast 2 months ago)
i was considering using this set-up mounted in the center with a large reflector to spread out the light more evenly than my current spider reflector and supplementing it with T5's.
the bulb im thinking of using for the MH would be an XM 6500 or 10K for par (growth) and either 2x54w (ice cap 430) or 3x54w (ice cap 660) with blue bulbs to add wattage (more par) and blue color spectrum to acheive an approx 20K color temp.
im not sure yet what type of aquascaping ill be doing but an island seems to be best suited to this set-up. ill also be attempting to get a tank with out a center brace because after the 65 ive quite enough of that @#*%!!!

what i have learned from the first 20 pages of this post is that Grim is the man with the t5s!! and that this is the best thread to ask in.
also, has anyone else tried this type of set up and had good results?

thanks for all the help so far guys and i hope this will work out.

p.s. congrats on your 7,777 posts grim :D

-nick
 
oh man, almost forgot....
i am planning on a SPS dominated tank with some LPS and zoos mixed in (mostly on the sand or close to the bottom), i also have a crocea clam up on the rocks and will get a couple more in the future im sure which may need to be on the sand. im sure ill have plenty of relatively dim areas towards the edges of the tank so im not too worried about the low light demands, mostly the effective area in which i can grow high light sps corals. i have also been considering the 2 x 250 watt MH lighting but would like to avaiod a whole new lighting set-up.
thanks again guys.
-nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7910235#post7910235 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yamaha racer
ne body i need to know.....grim, horkin anybody? help me out

yep, sounds like a good combo.

the old ge 6500k daybulb used to be the par king. but they changed the bulb, and now the new ati sun pro has more par. i see grim likes the new sun pro more than the new GE 6500k. so i would do the same
 
Anyone have experience with the T5HO bulbs by odyssea 54watt (12k)?

I have the PC version & it looks ok (BRIGHT WHITE & SLIGHT TINT OF BLUE), was wondering if the t5 bulbs are anygood.

LFS is selling them for $15
 
dunno, but at least your LFS carries t5ho products. everywhere around here they still dont even understand what a good t5ho system can do. "mh and vho and PC are the only types of light" cough bs
 
I agree. I work part time at a local LFS for fun. Before I started working there, I told them what I had. Some of the guys told me my SPS and clams would never survive in a 90 with T5s. Its now 2 years later, some of the employees have been to my house and now the store owner sells TEK fixtures. He even replaced 2, 400w MHs over one of his tanks with 6x54w T5s.

One guys still tells me its all going to die as he takes an acro frag from my T5 prop tank :)
 
anyone???

I have the opportunity to get in on a Sunlight Supply powerbuy. I am going to get a 48'' 6 bulb tek light hood for my 95 gallon tank. I currently have zoanthids, mushrooms, xenia, and kenya trees in my tank. With the powerbuy I can get a discount also on Sunlight Supply bulbs. Originally I was planning on buying 2 Aquablue, 2 blueplus, 1 GE? daylight, and 1 UVL super acitnic. However now I am considering changing my choices to all Sunlight Supply bulbs, on average abou $5 less a bulb. What is everyones opinon? Should I just get the hood and shell out the extra $ for my original bulb choices?
 
Help with a ballast

Help with a ballast

I just turned on the 6 bulb 39" Tek 5 light that I bought used here on RC a year ago and...the front and back light will not fire. :( The front light briefly flickers but will not fire, the back one does nothing. Bulbs are good, I swapped around to make sure. So, it looks like I need to replace a ballast or possibly repair wiring. Anyone know what kind of ballast the Tek5 uses? TIA

Bryan
 
My lights did the same thing but I am using a retro with icecap ballast. I found where 1 on my two bulbs wasnt installed properly in the end cap. Ice caps web site states that if the bulbs will flicker on then off right away you have a wiring problem or bad bulb.
Jeff
 
grim could you post a list of the PAR readings you have for the all different T5s. especially the new ati bulbs.

thanks
 
I too would like to see them again. I'm also interesed in seeing PAR readings from the 15k Aqua Science bulb and the 12k UVL. The TOTM uses the 15k bulbs, and it may be an interesting adition to a lighting scheme. I wonder big of a PAR drop you get from 11k>12k>15k.

Grim?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7927587#post7927587 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mattliu
grim could you post a list of the PAR readings you have for the all different T5s. especially the new ati bulbs.

thanks
i would also like to see a list esp. to see where the ge 6500K lands with its new formula
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7927201#post7927201 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjoos99
My lights did the same thing but I am using a retro with icecap ballast. I found where 1 on my two bulbs wasnt installed properly in the end cap. Ice caps web site states that if the bulbs will flicker on then off right away you have a wiring problem or bad bulb.
Jeff

Thanks Jeff. After some more troubleshooting today I discovered I have a bad bulb and a bad socket. I just happened to put the bad bulb opposite the bad socket, both of which are off the two bulb ballast. Lucky me. Ballast is fine and the socket is repaired. But I would love to know how a brand new ATI bulb fails to light in all 6 sockets.:confused:

Bryan
 
I'm not Grim (thank goodness!) but is this what you're looking for:

For just the 54 watt lamps

ATI Brand

Aquablue 322
Blue Plus 311
Actinic 142
Sun 340

UVL

Actinic White 294
Super Actinic 212

Aquaz

Ocean Pro 329
Blue Pro 249
Sun Pro 306

D&D Guisemann

Aquablue 302
Actinic Plus 248

Helios

Daylight 10K 325
Super Blue 245

Current Sun Paq

10K daylight 301
Blue actinic 252

GE Daylight 319
 
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