The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I'd run a sun or midday lamp, aquablue and 2 blue plus. If you want a more blue look swap the aquablue for a UVL Super Actinic.
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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I'd run a sun or midday lamp, aquablue and 2 blue plus. If you want a more blue look swap the aquablue for a UVL Super Actinic.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The Aquactinics T5 hood has great reflectors (At least equal to Ice Cap) but uses Workhorse ballasts which I personally don't care for. The hood is designed to sit right on top of the tank which is the most efficient way to place it but not always practical. They use a carbon fiber shield which is supposedly much better at transfering light than regular acrylic which drops abut 10%.
If you are going to run the Tek lower than 4" above the water the sheild is a must have, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
If you are going to run the Tek lower than 4" above the water the sheild is a must have, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Or just run four of the GE 6500K bulbs if you really like that 'daylight' look...and want to really fry the corals....BUHWA! BUWA! HE HE HE HA HOO HOO HOO!!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The ATI Sun Pro is brighter than the GE. GE whitened up or at least looks like they whitened up their lamp so it doesn't produce the big PAR numbers any more.
snookface1
New member
I would like to tack on this thread. Grim on my 55gal I have three T-5 over driven with a 660 ice cap. Currently I have 10k, actinic, 10k (I don't remember the brands). I don't like the color, and when I got it about 8 months ago I wanted all the light I could. Thats why I went with two 10k. Because of my current hood, I can't add the fouth T-5 (I have a five-inch opening in the front for feeding). My tank is full of LPS and two Acropora and dont see as much growth as I did with VHO's.
I would like to change the bulbs any suggestions? I was thinging about the New URI T-5, two actinic, and one 10K.
I would like to change the bulbs any suggestions? I was thinging about the New URI T-5, two actinic, and one 10K.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I would go with 1 UVL Super Actinic, 1 ATI Blue Plus and Aquablue.
Wow, what a great thread on t5's..
Being new to this, I have read a lot of the posts, but am still in need of advice.
I have a 75G that is 48"L x 18"W x 22"H, I also have a Catfish 48" Fixture that is 2 x 54w T5 HO and I just bought a used Icecap 660 ballast with 8 waterproof T5 endcaps and standoffs, but no reflectors (got a deal on it).
Being new to this I would like to keep low-medium light corals and not get into SPS.
What would be advised with the lighting parts/equipment I have. I also do not have a canopy and am just debating if I should build one or just stick with a fixture.
Also what bulbs would be recommended.
Thanks!!
Being new to this, I have read a lot of the posts, but am still in need of advice.
I have a 75G that is 48"L x 18"W x 22"H, I also have a Catfish 48" Fixture that is 2 x 54w T5 HO and I just bought a used Icecap 660 ballast with 8 waterproof T5 endcaps and standoffs, but no reflectors (got a deal on it).
Being new to this I would like to keep low-medium light corals and not get into SPS.
What would be advised with the lighting parts/equipment I have. I also do not have a canopy and am just debating if I should build one or just stick with a fixture.
Also what bulbs would be recommended.
Thanks!!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I would probably sell off the Ice Cap stuff and get a fixture. At 22" tall the IC T5 setup is overkill unless you want anemones, clams and SPS.
Aquactinics has a nice 5 lamp T5 fixture that would be pretty good. They are listed on the sponsors page.
Aquactinics has a nice 5 lamp T5 fixture that would be pretty good. They are listed on the sponsors page.
I am curious if there is a t5 hood that will fit on a 30"L tank.
Specifically the 29g high aquarium whose measurements are 30l x 20w x 18h
I like everything i hear about the t5, except for lack of shimmer, and they would allow for the possibility of sps more readily than with pc's.
I understand the bulb lengths may make this a problem, but i just figured there may be some remote hood with splayed 24" t5's for a 30"L tank...very wishful thinking on my part probably!
Specifically the 29g high aquarium whose measurements are 30l x 20w x 18h
I like everything i hear about the t5, except for lack of shimmer, and they would allow for the possibility of sps more readily than with pc's.
I understand the bulb lengths may make this a problem, but i just figured there may be some remote hood with splayed 24" t5's for a 30"L tank...very wishful thinking on my part probably!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You could probably make some legs for a Tek or just get the hanging kit for it.
The hanging part would be ideal, however i rent and really dont want to drill the ceiling.
I definitely want the legs, i guess i should have been more clear with my original post.
When i mentioned wanting a hood i really just wanted a ready to plug in setup like the tek that will sit on legs on the edges of a 30"L tank, without any canopy over it.
I guess a follow up question is if i were to use a canopy or make custom legs, i would probably have to raise a 24" t5 light to get full coverage in a 30"L tank, would that significantly lower the light penetrance to the point where stocking options would be an issue?
I definitely want the legs, i guess i should have been more clear with my original post.
When i mentioned wanting a hood i really just wanted a ready to plug in setup like the tek that will sit on legs on the edges of a 30"L tank, without any canopy over it.
I guess a follow up question is if i were to use a canopy or make custom legs, i would probably have to raise a 24" t5 light to get full coverage in a 30"L tank, would that significantly lower the light penetrance to the point where stocking options would be an issue?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You would get pretty good coverage and intensity with the light about 6" above the tank.
JohnyBravo
New member
What's a good light configuration for a 4x54w icecap? I have a 75 gal (48x18x20)...
snookface1
New member
Grin, with the sugestion you gave for the bulbs, arent they all in the 450 specturm range? Should one be a 10k, or full specturm bulb?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The UVL Super Actinic is about 430nm or so (looks that way to me anyway), a little more blue than a 420 actinic. The blueplus is 450nm blue and puts out quite a bit of usable PAR. The aquablue is a 60/40 actinic/daylight mix that is listed as 11000K, It is a very crisp white color.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You want at least 2 'blue" Lamps. Depends on personal taste. I think I would try 2 Blueplus, 1 UVL Actinic White and a UVL Super Actinic. The Actinic White has a pink cast to it but when mixed with blue lamps you dont see it. The Super Actinic pops green colors really well and the Blue Plus pops red and blues pretty well.
With overdriving the lamps on a 20" tall you can get away with a lot of blue and still have plenty of PAR for your critters.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you are talking SPS, LPS and Softies in the same tank halides are a better choice because you get more varied lighting intensity.
I am assuming the 120 is 48x24x24.
If I am right I would try 6 lamps for T5. Throw a Blue Plus then UVL Super Actinic in front which should allow you to keep lower light critters on the sand. Leave a gap between the first 2 lamps then do another blueplus, a Midday or Sun, Aquablue and another blueplus at the back. I think that would allow you to segregate the corals better so you can keep everybody happy. I am still trying to figure this stuff out myself.
JohnyBravo
New member
Thanks Grim....
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