The T5 Q&a Thread

[Robert Patterso]

switch to t5hos

switch to t5hos

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8020055#post8020055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Mission man:

You want a blue lamp at the front and then just spread things out so you get an even distribution of the light.

Robert Patterso

The Actinic is a pure actinic lamp, the aquablue is is 50/50 Daylight actinic style lamp. Mi9xing up lamps is a good thing IMO, it will give you a wider spectrum.

Abendex, THANKS

You got it about right. Zoo's really depend, some like lotsa light an others dont. You can keep shrooms onthe sand and lower light softies too.

Sorry, I am on the road and don't have a lot of time. Just waiting for Rod Serling to end the episode here. Have fun guys.

Hey grim, I'm really bouncing back forth here. I want to be able to keep an sps tank, they will be some zoos and some high end lps and a clam or two. With a 6 bulb 39w overdrive set up in a 24" deep tank can it be done. I want to be able to keep acro's of just anything I want without having to worry about not having enough. I'm going to upgrade my lights here in the next week or so from 1 150hqi with vho super actinics. So when i do this i don't want to have any regrets.
I need input please.

Thanks grim and be careful out there on the road.

Robert

 

[mission man]

Tank dimensions 72x24x24

 

[johnfaas]

Re: Re: ?

Re: Re: ?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8020005#post8020005 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
From the road so limited net access:

If you can change your lamp order do it now. You need more like 4 actinic plus and 2 of each of ther others. Make sure you have a blue lamp at the front and then just mix things up for an even distribution.

Reason ? To bright ?

 

[coraladdict]

This is the way i got my 8 lamp Tek set up .

1 pure actinic
1 pure actinic
2 aquablue
2 daylight
2 aquablue
2 daylight
1 pure actinic
1 pure actinic
This set up give me the dawn to dusk effect.

 

[johnfaas]

?

?

The rep at Sunlight Supply said to install like this:

ab/ab/md/ap/ap/md/ab/ab


What do you think it will look like ?

 

[surgeonboy]

.

 

[surgeonboy]

Sounds good.

 

[coraladdict]

Re: ?

Re: ?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8023076#post8023076 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by johnfaas
The rep at Sunlight Supply said to install like this:

ab/ab/md/ap/ap/md/ab/ab




What do you think it will look like ?

You won't get the dawn to dusk effect though.

 

[juststartingout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7795017#post7795017 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
T5 isn't better than halide. Properly set up they will deliver similar results using less power and creating less heat.

Grim, most of the peeps here are running a 18-24" deep tank, what is your feeling on t-5 lighing on a 30" deep tank. Currently I have been using 400 wt MH (10kUshio's) tank has sps clams and anenomies. Would a t-5 lighting system be as good, just with less heat and power useage? The sps are mid tank and the clams are on the bottom.
BTW, thanks for all your time answering questions on this thread!

 

[kmacartney]

Where is the best place to get 12" T5 setups?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: switch to t5hos

Re: switch to t5hos

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8020278#post8020278 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
Hey grim, I'm really bouncing back forth here. I want to be able to keep an sps tank, they will be some zoos and some high end lps and a clam or two. With a 6 bulb 39w overdrive set up in a 24" deep tank can it be done. I want to be able to keep acro's of just anything I want without having to worry about not having enough. I'm going to upgrade my lights here in the next week or so from 1 150hqi with vho super actinics. So when i do this i don't want to have any regrets.
I need input please.

Thanks grim and be careful out there on the road.

Robert

6x39 overdriven will cream a 150 watt HQI so you will have plenty of light. I think the Zoos will adapt and most LPS seem to handle the T5's except for open brains.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8025344#post8025344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juststartingout
Grim, most of the peeps here are running a 18-24" deep tank, what is your feeling on t-5 lighing on a 30" deep tank. Currently I have been using 400 wt MH (10kUshio's) tank has sps clams and anenomies. Would a t-5 lighting system be as good, just with less heat and power useage? The sps are mid tank and the clams are on the bottom.
BTW, thanks for all your time answering questions on this thread!

Not sure if I'd say even overdriven T5's are as good as 400 watt halides. I guess it depends on the particular set up. I'd definatly go with 6 or 8 overdriven T5's on a 30" tall tank if I were going to try T5's.

 

[Robert Patterso]

Re: Re: switch to t5hos

Re: Re: switch to t5hos

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8026408#post8026408 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
6x39 overdriven will cream a 150 watt HQI so you will have plenty of light. I think the Zoos will adapt and most LPS seem to handle the T5's except for open brains.

Hey Grim, What is the wattage of 39w on overdrive, do know?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I think Ice Cap claimed 60 watts.

 

[Robert Patterso]

39w ho

39w ho

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8026629#post8026629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I think Ice Cap claimed 60 watts.

Is the Par output that we should be concerned with, no necesarily the wattage. Correct?

 

[sarduci]

Re: 39w ho

Re: 39w ho

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8026958#post8026958 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert Patterso
Is the Par output that we should be concerned with, no necesarily the wattage. Correct?

Correct. PAR is the amount of light that a source gives off that the corals can actually use to produce food for themselves. Brighter is not always better, but it really shouldn't hurt any unless it's way overkill.

 

[Robert Patterso]

Re: Re: 39w ho

Re: Re: 39w ho

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8028051#post8028051 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sarduci
Correct. PAR is the amount of light that a source gives off that the corals can actually use to produce food for themselves. Brighter is not always better, but it really shouldn't hurt any unless it's way overkill.

Thanks sarduci, I'm thinking then if I go with 4 39who's and the one 150w hqi 10k I should be in pretty good shape to keep just about anything I want, such as acros. That's what I'm trying to accomplish here is an sps dominated tank with out investing a ton of money and adding more heat w/ 2 250mh on 70g tank, 36Lx24dp.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

If you are going to run T5's and the halide I would choose lamps carefully. I would stick with a 10K halide for sure. For T5's I would run 2 ati blue plus, 1 UVL actinic white and 1 ATI Aquablue.

 

[Robert Patterso]

mh & t5s

mh & t5s

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8028826#post8028826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you are going to run T5's and the halide I would choose lamps carefully. I would stick with a 10K halide for sure. For T5's I would run 2 ati blue plus, 1 UVL actinic white and 1 ATI Aquablue.

What I would really like to do is loose the mh altogether and run the t5s only. My only concern is I want to be able to keep acros and not have to worry about enough light. So to do so should I run 6 lights overdriven. If i could do this I'm sure there wouldn't be as much of a heat issue nor the electric bill. What ya think?

 

[JC VT]

Hi Grim. I have 2 vho's (actinic and 50/50) and will soon be getting a 2 bulb 24' icecap retrofit. What 2 bulbs do you recommend for the icecap? I wish to get a 10k halide + actinic look. This goes on a 20L.