The T5 Q&a Thread

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Hey there TGR, I'm gonna do some searches but to your knowledge is there anyone who has been running the 660 more than six months? I'm at a few now and I'm wondering about spectral shift and/or lower overall output. I plan on changing my tubes every 6 months, just hoping they can make it that long (54W being run at 85W per K-A-W). I run them about 12 hours/day.

Thanks for all your hard work!
 
fliger, a while back there has been at least one guy who ran 660's on t5ho and he noted that even when properly fanned, the bulbs did not hold up very long, less than year was what i rememebr. this guy works at an aquarium as well. IIRC, it was the monterey aquarium.


i wish i would have bookmarked that link
 
Thanks man, I did a quick search and it looks like wonrib00 worked there, and sold some T5's so I'll look further. I'm hoping that since TGR has the tools he can test. The controller I'm waiting for has a light meter but I won't have it for a few months yet. ;-(

FWIW, my SPS are doing great under the T5. I only run my MH 4 hours/day and when I travel I keep them off entirely. My tank has been relatively neglected but I'm still holding on to color pretty well. Currently I'm running -

2x Giesemann Blue+
1x UVL SA
1x Giesemann Aquablue

That combo off the 660 reminds me a lot of the 250W Phoenix on e-ballast. Those four bulbs are adequately covering a 48L x 32W x 20T tank. There are some corals that need more light - my pokerstar monti comes to mind. But my supermans (real and fake) are doing great.
 
I ran 80 watt lamps on 660's 14 months and they still had better than 80% of the PAR new lamps had despite the fact I didnt run fans at first. 2 of the lamps that were at the front were pretty hammered at a year but I am sure they got good and cooked when I wasn't running fans.

Check Dhock and Obi-Dad for their lamp life. I think Dhock is tracking PAR monthly now.
 
hey Grim Reefer it looks like your the guy to ask about t5's
i have a 60x24x18 tank i was thinking in to buying t5's due to the low heat but i was going to go with the 6 bulbs 80w each n ice cap ballast and sls reflectors will it be enough for sps n clams

thanks
 
Thanks TGR, I will look for that info. Sounds like 6-8 months shouldn't be an issue.

ever818 - that is definitely more than enough, especially if your tank is 18" tall. In fact you'll have to make sure you have some shaded areas in your rockwork. Take a look at www.reefgeek.com for their retros. They are in LA.
 
Grim,

Have you tested the PAR of a 48" T12 VHO UVL Actinic, run on a IC660 or other ballast, for comparison to the 54W 48" UVL T5 Super Actinic?

Dan
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8044478#post8044478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stereomandan
Grim,

Have you tested the PAR of a 48" T12 VHO UVL Actinic, run on a IC660 or other ballast, for comparison to the 54W 48" UVL T5 Super Actinic?

Dan

Haven't. I am not sure PAR would be the best way to judge an actinic lamp anyway.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8044167#post8044167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fliger
Thanks TGR, I will look for that info. Sounds like 6-8 months shouldn't be an issue.

ever818 - that is definitely more than enough, especially if your tank is 18" tall. In fact you'll have to make sure you have some shaded areas in your rockwork. Take a look at www.reefgeek.com for their retros. They are in LA.


i am sorry my tank is 24 tall will it be enough still???

thanks
 
IME, yes. I've run Tek-Lights over a 150 (5x2x2) and it was fine. I think you'd be pushing it with standard ballasts but with the 660 you'll be fine. Since your tank only 18" wide though, you might even be fine with 6x80W. Maybe even run 4x80W off the 660 and two more on standard ballast for sunlight/sunset.

I have to admit though I'm making the assumption that 80W overdriven will have the same impact of 54W overdriven. Also IIRC you can't run 4x80W off of one 660 so you'll have to figure out the right combo of bulbs ballasts. I've never used 80W, so someone feel free to correct me. ;-)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8044641#post8044641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Haven't. I am not sure PAR would be the best way to judge an actinic lamp anyway.

O.k., how about a UVL 48" T12 VHO Aquasun or Actinic White 50/50 vs the equivalent UVL 48" T5 Aquasun or Actinic White 50/50 with the IC reflector? Seems odd with all the tests done on T5 bulbs and ballasts, that no one would have thought to do this.

They are supposed to use the same phosphors right?

To me, this would answer some of the questions that many are still asking... "Prove to me that T5 has more light output than a comparable length VHO on the same ballast" Forget about efficiency comparisons for this exercise. I can fit about the same amount of VHO's in my canopy as T5's with the IC reflectors since the reflectors are so wide. Whether I use T5's on my IC660 ballast @ 85W/bulb or VHO's @ 110W/bulb, I really don't care.

I hope someone has done this test already and can provide a link. :)

Dan
 
I think I can get a reading, need to check to see if he is running an IC ballast. I know reading on the surface of the lamp a new 36" 95 watt URI 50/50 with a internal reflector was lower than a 80 watt T5 Aquablue with no reflector. That is pretty impressive considering the T5 covered 2 more feet of length and used about the same amount of power. The UVL actinic white doesn't have quite the output the Aquablue does.
 
Question.

I just got my 6 light T5 fixture at a great price with individual reflectors. i dont want to say the name because they are not a sponser.

I asked for 2 daylight 10k and 4 actinics.

I got the two daylights, but they gave me 4 of the 450nm.
What rating is the 450nm. IS that just another name for actinics.

It looks a little to blue. What should I add to cut some of the blue.
 
The 450's will be close to a blue plus. You could add a couple of UVL super actinics which will pop the colors way better if your 450's are cheap lamps like catalina or coralvue.
 
The super actinics will take some of the blue out?

Otherwise how would you suggest I set up my lights.

6 light T5
90 gallon 48X24X18.

I want to eventually due clams, but for now softies and other beginner corals.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8046251#post8046251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I think I can get a reading, need to check to see if he is running an IC ballast. I know reading on the surface of the lamp a new 36" 95 watt URI 50/50 with a internal reflector was lower than a 80 watt T5 Aquablue with no reflector. That is pretty impressive considering the T5 covered 2 more feet of length and used about the same amount of power. The UVL actinic white doesn't have quite the output the Aquablue does.

I know I'm being greedy asking for the comparison, but I think it's a very good question to answer for a lot of people. I think the 48" bulb is the most common length, and the UVL Actinic White 50/50 or Aquasun are very popular bulbs. Looking at the same color and length bulb in the T5 and VHO option would be great data.

Thanks for all the work you've already done. It's a huge benefit to many.

Dan
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8046634#post8046634 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Alque01
The super actinics will take some of the blue out?

Otherwise how would you suggest I set up my lights.

6 light T5
90 gallon 48X24X18.

I want to eventually due clams, but for now softies and other beginner corals.

The super actinics don't put out as much visible light as the blue lamps so running a couplemof those in place of the 450 lamps should give you a whiter look.
 
I'm buying a 4x39 IC retro from reefgeek for my 40 breeder but I plan on downgrading the ballast so I don't blind my corals. I did the math and it's cheaper to buy the IC retro and sell the ballast then getting the 4x39 Tek and parting out the IC reflectors. Anyways who makes the better ballast. Workhorse or Triad?

Thanks
 
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