The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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ninjafish
New member
I did it. In the last two days I read through every single post in this thread. There were some changes along the way, most notably Grim leaving and then returning. Also, it seems like a couple of the brands have changed from when the thread started, and super actinics have gained in popularity.
I feel like I have paid my dues and wanted to ask a couple questions
I would like to set up a 20L nano tank with mushrooms, zoos, and open brain on the bottom and maybe some simple sps on top. The tank would be viewable from three sides and I would like to use mountaing legs rather than hanging.
Grim can you give some T5 advice for us guys in the nano forum?
My options (from everything I have learned in the thread):
#1
24" Tek fixture run with only two bulbs - this would probably save me some electricity and replacement costs but might show too much banding when viewed from the side. It would allow me to easily move up to a brighter system if I ever went to SPS and clams (I probably won't though but...
).
#2
cheaper 24" fixture with four bulbs (no individual reflectors) like Finnex or Aquauniverse - this would be cheaper startup than the Tek but use twice the power. It would give better blending and mixing of the light though.
Which system would you recommend for my needs? What combination of bulbs would you use for each?
Let me know if you need any more info. Thank you very much for your help! You guys have been great in this thread!!!
Respect,
- Chad
I feel like I have paid my dues and wanted to ask a couple questions
I would like to set up a 20L nano tank with mushrooms, zoos, and open brain on the bottom and maybe some simple sps on top. The tank would be viewable from three sides and I would like to use mountaing legs rather than hanging.
Grim can you give some T5 advice for us guys in the nano forum?
My options (from everything I have learned in the thread):
#1
24" Tek fixture run with only two bulbs - this would probably save me some electricity and replacement costs but might show too much banding when viewed from the side. It would allow me to easily move up to a brighter system if I ever went to SPS and clams (I probably won't though but...
).#2
cheaper 24" fixture with four bulbs (no individual reflectors) like Finnex or Aquauniverse - this would be cheaper startup than the Tek but use twice the power. It would give better blending and mixing of the light though.
Which system would you recommend for my needs? What combination of bulbs would you use for each?
Let me know if you need any more info. Thank you very much for your help! You guys have been great in this thread!!!
Respect,
- Chad
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you got a 4 lamp Tek and ran just the 2 center lamps you would be good for now and could run 4 lamps later if you decided to step up to SPS and a Clam. I would probably try 1 UVL Actinic white and a UVL Super Actinic.
ninjafish
New member
Cool, thanks for the reply Grim.
Would that look better than having 4 bulbs without reflectors?
What would be your recommendation for a 4 bulb setup?
actinic+
aquablue
aquablue
actinic+
?? Or throw in some of those UVLs instead?
I realize that these cheaper lights aren't nearly as efficient as the Tek lights, but it was brought up in an earlier post that this might actually be an advantage for smaller tanks that would otherwise get cooked by too much radiation. The cheap fixtures come with the bulbs and fans and are still almost $80 cheaper than the Tek fixtures. If the added intensity of the Tek reflectors is unnecessary (or even detrimental) on a small tank, is it worth the extra cost? I'm just trying to make sense of it - so far the thread has dealt with trying to get the most out of lighting for larger tanks...
Cheers,
- Chad
edit: If you think that the two bulbs in the Tek fixture will be enough light for the tank and cause the corals to fluoresc nicely, than that's good enough for me...
Would that look better than having 4 bulbs without reflectors?
What would be your recommendation for a 4 bulb setup?
actinic+
aquablue
aquablue
actinic+
?? Or throw in some of those UVLs instead?
I realize that these cheaper lights aren't nearly as efficient as the Tek lights, but it was brought up in an earlier post that this might actually be an advantage for smaller tanks that would otherwise get cooked by too much radiation. The cheap fixtures come with the bulbs and fans and are still almost $80 cheaper than the Tek fixtures. If the added intensity of the Tek reflectors is unnecessary (or even detrimental) on a small tank, is it worth the extra cost? I'm just trying to make sense of it - so far the thread has dealt with trying to get the most out of lighting for larger tanks...
Cheers,
- Chad
edit: If you think that the two bulbs in the Tek fixture will be enough light for the tank and cause the corals to fluoresc nicely, than that's good enough for me...
sarduci
Premium Member
Just got my 3000k bulbs..... Now, I just need to get the fixture in. Got a hold of reefgeek today to find out my credit card company still had my old address... *whoops*
Fixture will probably be here Monday! Hopefully I'll have pics of the 3k bulb with others in a week or so.
Fixture will probably be here Monday! Hopefully I'll have pics of the 3k bulb with others in a week or so.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Using 4 lamps will definatly get a better look. I would run
Super Actinic
Aquablue
Midday
Blueplus
Super Actinic
Aquablue
Midday
Blueplus
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Now he knows more than we do
ninjafish
New member
LOL :lol: . Each time I got to a new split, I considered skipping to the end - but I figure it was a pretty good education. Before I started, I knew absolutely nothing about T5HO. I still don't know much but at least now I'm current.
Thanks to you guys, I'm at least ready to make a purchase. It would be nice if I could figure out how to get some shimmer lines though...
- Chad
I still don't know much but at least now I'm current.Thanks to you guys, I'm at least ready to make a purchase. It would be nice if I could figure out how to get some shimmer lines though...
- Chad
ninjafish
New member
I may as well post the idea here first, so someone can tell me if I overlooked something...
Fish's T5 retrofit for Shimmer
I intend to add one or two halogen bulbs to the inside of my fixture in hopes of casting shimmer lines in the tank.
I first came across these little guys when I used them to illuminate the inside a cannister filter in order to turn it into a chaeto fuge. I am pretty sure that they are a point source of light which is all we need right? We don't need enough point light to feed our tank inhabitants (like with a halide). We only need enough to cast shadows in the surface turbulance. I know that I can do it on a 20gal with a household lightbulb but I hope to find something small enough to add right inside the hood. If the tiny halogen doesn't work, I might try a Christmas light-style incandescent bulb or one of the larger T3 halogens....
Cheers,
- Chad
Fish's T5 retrofit for Shimmer
I intend to add one or two halogen bulbs to the inside of my fixture in hopes of casting shimmer lines in the tank.
I first came across these little guys when I used them to illuminate the inside a cannister filter in order to turn it into a chaeto fuge. I am pretty sure that they are a point source of light which is all we need right? We don't need enough point light to feed our tank inhabitants (like with a halide). We only need enough to cast shadows in the surface turbulance. I know that I can do it on a 20gal with a household lightbulb but I hope to find something small enough to add right inside the hood. If the tiny halogen doesn't work, I might try a Christmas light-style incandescent bulb or one of the larger T3 halogens....
Cheers,
- Chad
Last edited:
nautilus808
New member
I just set up my 36" retro for my 30 gallon from Reefgeek. I got 4 sunlight supply with the icecap reflectors like grim suggested. Its extremely bright. I think I could have gotten away with only 2 bulbs cos I wasnt planning on havin any sps. Well now maybe I will!! For the time being, running 1 super atinic and one blue plus is plenty of light for my zooas , lps and shrooms. No need in creating light hungry corals. I have some glitter lines going also so I m very pleased.
Customer service from the Geek was very helpful and i was pleased that everything arrrived in good condition. I dont live on mainland usa. I live in a very remote place and am used to things arriving broken and having to do the insurance thing but the Geek got it all the way here with out a scratch.
Where do u guys mount your ballasts? For me, the most conveniant place would be in the canopy for an easy removal of the canopy but I really dont want to intoduce any more heat.. It would be great if ppl could post pics of how they managed all the wires and the ballast.
Thanks for all your help Grim!
Customer service from the Geek was very helpful and i was pleased that everything arrrived in good condition. I dont live on mainland usa. I live in a very remote place and am used to things arriving broken and having to do the insurance thing but the Geek got it all the way here with out a scratch.
Where do u guys mount your ballasts? For me, the most conveniant place would be in the canopy for an easy removal of the canopy but I really dont want to intoduce any more heat.. It would be great if ppl could post pics of how they managed all the wires and the ballast.
Thanks for all your help Grim!
horkn
New member
yes, but they are all the stucci branded, sold by everyone, bulky ones.
see, the problem most run into with the non waterproof endcaps is that these people are looking to upgrade their tek lights (or other brands that come with the non waterproof ones) but there simply is not room in the fixture, unless you take one bulb out.
now ati has a lot slimmer design in europre now. it sounds like we will get more ati products here shortly, and hopefully these new smaller waterproof endcaps.
see, the problem most run into with the non waterproof endcaps is that these people are looking to upgrade their tek lights (or other brands that come with the non waterproof ones) but there simply is not room in the fixture, unless you take one bulb out.
now ati has a lot slimmer design in europre now. it sounds like we will get more ati products here shortly, and hopefully these new smaller waterproof endcaps.
lessthanlights
New member
Looking for a suggestion please.
I need two more 39w t5s for my 36x24x24 this is what I have.
4x39w tek t5 retro with IC reflectors
2 Triad t5 ballasts
UVL SA
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 10k Aqua Sun
Can anyone suggest two more bulbs and what order for a crips clean white look. I'll have three ballast and would like to time them for dawn/dusk, midday, and full daylight. This is for softies, lps, fish, and clams- in that order.
Thanks
I need two more 39w t5s for my 36x24x24 this is what I have.
4x39w tek t5 retro with IC reflectors
2 Triad t5 ballasts
UVL SA
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 10k Aqua Sun
Can anyone suggest two more bulbs and what order for a crips clean white look. I'll have three ballast and would like to time them for dawn/dusk, midday, and full daylight. This is for softies, lps, fish, and clams- in that order.
Thanks
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
And in the end, the shimmer you make, is equal to the light, point source can fake....
OK, enough haking on Beatles lyrics.
You probably wont get enough additional shimmer with the halogen lamps to make it worth it. Each fluorescent tube eliminates some shimmer. Think football stadium lighting. You have light comming from every direction so there are no shadows. If you have a light that is brighter it will give you subdued shimmers. If you have a halogen light there give it a shot but I wouldn't go crazy to make it fit until you test drive it to see how it looks.
OK, enough haking on Beatles lyrics.
You probably wont get enough additional shimmer with the halogen lamps to make it worth it. Each fluorescent tube eliminates some shimmer. Think football stadium lighting. You have light comming from every direction so there are no shadows. If you have a light that is brighter it will give you subdued shimmers. If you have a halogen light there give it a shot but I wouldn't go crazy to make it fit until you test drive it to see how it looks.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Where do you think you are now as far as light color?
If you need to Whiten things up try a D&D/Geisemann Midday and a ATI Aquablue. That would make things look more white but still have a noticable blue hue. Adding 2 middays would make your overall look very white.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Endcap options
Helios make a hard rubber endcap that is moisture resistant. They push on the ends and are easily going to prevent as much moisture as the stucci's.
www.commodityaxis.com is the company's website. You can e-mail them about the endcaps (they aren't listed on the website) through the "contact us" tab.
Helios make a hard rubber endcap that is moisture resistant. They push on the ends and are easily going to prevent as much moisture as the stucci's.
www.commodityaxis.com is the company's website. You can e-mail them about the endcaps (they aren't listed on the website) through the "contact us" tab.
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