The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
As I remember Ice Cap could only get the power down like 10% before the evil spirits came out. I am going to try dimming VHO T6's on a 660.
The T5 Q&a Thread
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SaltyClone
New member
I am now leaning towards getting 2 x 250w MH with 14k bulbs. But I want to supplement this lighting with 2 54w T5ho actinic bulbs. Of the ones offered from reefgeek, which provide the best actinic lighting.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
UVL Super Actinics.
But what 14,000Ks are you going to get? If Ushios, I would suggest not actinics, but blue+ bulbs, since Ushio 14,000Ks already have loads of actinic, but unlike alot of other 14,000Ks, lack the huge blue spike.
If you were to go with the pheonix 14,000Ks, they do have the huge blue spike, so the UVL Auper Actinics would be a better combo.
OF course, my favorite is to just run 2x250wattDE halides with 10,000K bulbs for the best coral pigmentation and growth, and then have 4x54wattT5s running 2x blue+ and 2x actinic03 bulbs to make a very nice 'day-blue' look. I have friends that run this 2:1 ratio of halide to T5 wattage and bulb color, and their results are by far the best I have seen anywhere.
Thats enough light for a 120g though... a bit too much for a 55g. FWIW, I would do a 75g over a 55g tank, but if I had to do a 55g, I would just go 100% T5. the halides are a waste on a 55g, and FWIW, you can get more light out of a 4-6 x54wattT5 setup than you can with dual halides. A 55g is just too tall for 150wattDE bulbs, so you go with 250s, but dual 250s can run a 75g or even a 120. Besides, most of the light output simply spills out the front and back of the tank because its sooo narrow with a 55g.
I have a good buddy (ex-coworker too) who used to run his 55g with dual 250wattSEs because his tank is about 8 years old. I convinced him to ditch the halides, and go with a 6x54wattT5 setup. Hes very glad he did. He says he has more light, less watts, and everything just looks better. For a long narrow tank like a 55g... T5s are just the natural best match.
Dont get me wrong though... if it were a 60g/24" cube, Id be pushing the 400watt halide pendant in a lumenarc3 (I have that setup).
But what 14,000Ks are you going to get? If Ushios, I would suggest not actinics, but blue+ bulbs, since Ushio 14,000Ks already have loads of actinic, but unlike alot of other 14,000Ks, lack the huge blue spike.
If you were to go with the pheonix 14,000Ks, they do have the huge blue spike, so the UVL Auper Actinics would be a better combo.
OF course, my favorite is to just run 2x250wattDE halides with 10,000K bulbs for the best coral pigmentation and growth, and then have 4x54wattT5s running 2x blue+ and 2x actinic03 bulbs to make a very nice 'day-blue' look. I have friends that run this 2:1 ratio of halide to T5 wattage and bulb color, and their results are by far the best I have seen anywhere.
Thats enough light for a 120g though... a bit too much for a 55g. FWIW, I would do a 75g over a 55g tank, but if I had to do a 55g, I would just go 100% T5. the halides are a waste on a 55g, and FWIW, you can get more light out of a 4-6 x54wattT5 setup than you can with dual halides. A 55g is just too tall for 150wattDE bulbs, so you go with 250s, but dual 250s can run a 75g or even a 120. Besides, most of the light output simply spills out the front and back of the tank because its sooo narrow with a 55g.
I have a good buddy (ex-coworker too) who used to run his 55g with dual 250wattSEs because his tank is about 8 years old. I convinced him to ditch the halides, and go with a 6x54wattT5 setup. Hes very glad he did. He says he has more light, less watts, and everything just looks better. For a long narrow tank like a 55g... T5s are just the natural best match.
Dont get me wrong though... if it were a 60g/24" cube, Id be pushing the 400watt halide pendant in a lumenarc3 (I have that setup).
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Up to you, from what I have seen, the Iwasaki 15,000Ks have a good amount of both blue and actinic. I suppose I would lean more towards actinic, but its a bulb that doesnt really need supplimentation in the first place... kinda like adding actinics to a 20,000K bulb... theres already plenty to begin with.
When in doubt, buy both/all you are considering and then go from there. I think you buying one of everything is the best way to go... you can mix and match, and figure out what you really like.
FWIW, if you are going with the 15,000K, the Aquablues are pretty similar... redundant in a way... but maybe thats part of your plan I take it. I would consider swapping one of the Aquablues for a blue+, and maybe even the actinic for a daylight bulb... like a 6500K or sun to warm up the overall look a little... all that blue and no reds or yellows might be a bit much.
front to back;
Blue+
sun/6500K, maybe even 3000K
2x175watt 15,000K saki
UVL SA
Aquablue
Thats a little bit of everything... the blue+ is a much more intense bulb, and so is the sun bulb... they will end up complimenting each other and give a 12,000K look, but between the two of them, they could prolly match the output of one of your sakis. Then the super actinic (the actinic many people prefer over any other, so why bother with any other) and aquablue just bump up the purple/white colors to compliment the sakis and such. Either that, or what you had in the first place. I would just be tempted myself to have some supplimental 'warmth' of a sun bulb, and the output of the blue+ bulbs (blue rather than purple like an actinic) are 4x as bright, competing with many daylight bulbs, so I dont see many T5 setups with a good reason for not using at least one or two. Its strong enough to cover the sun bulb as well so it doesnt 'orange up' the tank. But the use of the sun and blue+ bulbs will really raise the level of lighting in the tank, an help red/orange/yellow corals color in better.
When in doubt, buy both/all you are considering and then go from there. I think you buying one of everything is the best way to go... you can mix and match, and figure out what you really like.
FWIW, if you are going with the 15,000K, the Aquablues are pretty similar... redundant in a way... but maybe thats part of your plan I take it. I would consider swapping one of the Aquablues for a blue+, and maybe even the actinic for a daylight bulb... like a 6500K or sun to warm up the overall look a little... all that blue and no reds or yellows might be a bit much.
front to back;
Blue+
sun/6500K, maybe even 3000K
2x175watt 15,000K saki
UVL SA
Aquablue
Thats a little bit of everything... the blue+ is a much more intense bulb, and so is the sun bulb... they will end up complimenting each other and give a 12,000K look, but between the two of them, they could prolly match the output of one of your sakis. Then the super actinic (the actinic many people prefer over any other, so why bother with any other) and aquablue just bump up the purple/white colors to compliment the sakis and such. Either that, or what you had in the first place. I would just be tempted myself to have some supplimental 'warmth' of a sun bulb, and the output of the blue+ bulbs (blue rather than purple like an actinic) are 4x as bright, competing with many daylight bulbs, so I dont see many T5 setups with a good reason for not using at least one or two. Its strong enough to cover the sun bulb as well so it doesnt 'orange up' the tank. But the use of the sun and blue+ bulbs will really raise the level of lighting in the tank, an help red/orange/yellow corals color in better.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I've heard the Iwasaki is a true 15K lamp which means it is very white. Has Sanjay done a test on those yet? If they are like the other "14K" lamps they are actually low on actinic but have a good blue output around 450nm.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I think that they are a little less on the blue, and more with the actinic... this is less common, but the ushio 14,000K is a good example. There seem to be two camps of 14,000K... some like the pheonix, aquaconnects, hamiltons, and EVC's where there really is alot of blue... more like a 20,000K with some of the actinic removed. Then there are the others, like the Geisemann, ushio, etc 14,000Ks that are more like 10,000Ks with just a little less yellow. I think the Saki 15,000K is a bit of both from when I remember seeing it. It has decent amounts of blue and actinic, but no large spikes from what I remember. Its a pretty cool bulb. I think it looks very similar to the 150watt 50,000K bulbs FWIW.
azlivingreef
New member
Yo Grim,
Question oh great T5 man. I have a question for you. I have a new oceanic tech series 120 gallon tank 48wide 24 deep and 251/2 high. What lighting system would you choose. I cannot run a hood it will be an open hood. I plan to keep acro's and some if little lps and 3 clams should i get the Solar Flare, tek light or a aquatincs system. I wanted an 8 bulb system but looks like no one makes one. And what bulbs should I choose?
Question oh great T5 man. I have a question for you. I have a new oceanic tech series 120 gallon tank 48wide 24 deep and 251/2 high. What lighting system would you choose. I cannot run a hood it will be an open hood. I plan to keep acro's and some if little lps and 3 clams should i get the Solar Flare, tek light or a aquatincs system. I wanted an 8 bulb system but looks like no one makes one. And what bulbs should I choose?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Solar Flare, hands down.
azlivingreef
New member
Grim,
Why is your opinion so strong on this unit? And what bulb choices should I buy with this lamp?
Why is your opinion so strong on this unit? And what bulb choices should I buy with this lamp?
azlivingreef
New member
Grim,
Sorry i do see that tek makes an 8 bulb lamp set for 1/2 the cost/ Do you see and 8 bulb tek giving as much par as an overdriven solr flare 6 bulb light? Anyone selling these new ATI fixtures in the states yet?
Sorry i do see that tek makes an 8 bulb lamp set for 1/2 the cost/ Do you see and 8 bulb tek giving as much par as an overdriven solr flare 6 bulb light? Anyone selling these new ATI fixtures in the states yet?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
No on the ATI's here yet. The Solar Flare uses fans for active cooling which increases the output. It uses Ice Cap reflectors which are about 20% more effectiv that the Tek. It uses Ice Cap ballasts which overdrive the lamps to about 35% better output than the standard T5 ballasts.
I would use 1 UVL Aquasun, 1 UVL Super Actinic, 2 ATI BLue Plus and 2 ATI Aquablues to start and see what you think.
I would use 1 UVL Aquasun, 1 UVL Super Actinic, 2 ATI BLue Plus and 2 ATI Aquablues to start and see what you think.
doodoobrown
New member
hey grim. im setting up a 300 72x32x32. i have very limited cleareance with my canopy (tenecor acrylic). i want to load it down with t5s. i will be keeping mostly zoas and rics but i do have a squamosa and couple of gigas clams too. any suggestions? i do already have one 660 and 4 slr reflectors just not sure how many i should have for such a large tank. thanks in advance
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I would probably go 8 rows of lamps with the 4 center rows overdriven.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Grim, so you have any comparison numbers for the Solar Flare yet?
I had bought a fulham ballast the WH7-120P and then was reding about that it doesn't have any protection on it other than a fuse and it is also and instant start which some say is hard on the bulbs, well today i bought a Osram Sylvania QTP4X54T5HOUNVPSNHT ballast and tried that along side the fulham the fulham was getting warm in the 5-10 mins it was on and the sylvania was still cold, and the sylvania has a few other nice features like soft start, quicksense which is it can tell when the bulb is almost dead and insted of wrecking the ballast it just won't light, and it has two seperate outputs so you can choose to light only 2 bulbs instead of 4 which would be great for simulating dusk/dawn. it was a bit more that the fulham but i think is is worth it the fulham i paid was about $63 cdn and that sylvania was $79 cdn
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
What would you all consider to be the best ballasts for T5s... Sylvania? Advance? Im in the market for some more... Im thinking soft start, electronic, etc...
What would you get? I dont want to overdrive them though... I have a couple IC660s already.
What would you get? I dont want to overdrive them though... I have a couple IC660s already.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Not yet, the guy who is getting the unit has been out of the country
ABCRinaldo
New member
Grim, Wow you've answered a lot of questions.
Unfortunately I do not understand them all, so I need to ask my own.
I was originally going to buy a 75 gallon, then I went into the store and the difference between a 75 and a 90 is $20. So I will get the 90.
Now the guy in the LFS says to get Metal Hallides costing $900. I'd rather go diving 20 times this year and see more reef than I would get in a 90 gallon, than spend that on a lighting system.
I see you recommend T5 lights, can you make a financially conscious recommendation for a 90 gallon 48" tank Please. I'd like to have enough lighting to successfully keep one anemone and some soft corals.
Thank you,
Rinaldo
Unfortunately I do not understand them all, so I need to ask my own.
I was originally going to buy a 75 gallon, then I went into the store and the difference between a 75 and a 90 is $20. So I will get the 90.
Now the guy in the LFS says to get Metal Hallides costing $900. I'd rather go diving 20 times this year and see more reef than I would get in a 90 gallon, than spend that on a lighting system.
I see you recommend T5 lights, can you make a financially conscious recommendation for a 90 gallon 48" tank Please. I'd like to have enough lighting to successfully keep one anemone and some soft corals.
Thank you,
Rinaldo
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
www.reefgeek.com
6 lamp Tek retro upgraded to Ice Cap reflectors, 2 bux each. Stick with a Bulb Tipped Anemone and you will be fine.
6 lamp Tek retro upgraded to Ice Cap reflectors, 2 bux each. Stick with a Bulb Tipped Anemone and you will be fine.
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