loweryster
Active member
Your right it was a 5000k bulb, same bulb Greg is testing over at RG. So is it better than the UVL.
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
No. Par was in the 250 range compared to around 300 for the UVL.
loweryster
Active member
Thanks
mrcrab
In Memoriam
Hey Grim,
I used you advice on the current tank, went with the Sunlight Supply Maristar unit and love it. I'm upgrading from my 120 to a 340 and want to use the same unit and add some suplimental actininc.
Old Tank Dimensions: 72" X 18" X 23"
New Tank Dimensions: 96" X 30" X 30" Starfire euro and cross bracing.
Maristar unit bulbs: 4 X 39 watt D&D pure Actinics AAA, 3 X Ushio 14k, 250 DE's
I realize that it may not be enough light on the ends and towards the bottom of the new tank, I'll just need to be careful where I place things.
Questions:
Which white lights would you suggest I change out the pure actinincs in the Maristar unit for?
Which actinics and how much would you suggest I add to suupliment the halides and additional white T5's?
I'm thinking 2 X 4' bulbs end to end on each side of the Maristar, front and back. Which bulbs & reflectors would you suggest and which ballasts to drive them?
Thanks for your help,
Barry
I used you advice on the current tank, went with the Sunlight Supply Maristar unit and love it. I'm upgrading from my 120 to a 340 and want to use the same unit and add some suplimental actininc.
Old Tank Dimensions: 72" X 18" X 23"
New Tank Dimensions: 96" X 30" X 30" Starfire euro and cross bracing.
Maristar unit bulbs: 4 X 39 watt D&D pure Actinics AAA, 3 X Ushio 14k, 250 DE's
I realize that it may not be enough light on the ends and towards the bottom of the new tank, I'll just need to be careful where I place things.
Questions:
Which white lights would you suggest I change out the pure actinincs in the Maristar unit for?
Which actinics and how much would you suggest I add to suupliment the halides and additional white T5's?
I'm thinking 2 X 4' bulbs end to end on each side of the Maristar, front and back. Which bulbs & reflectors would you suggest and which ballasts to drive them?
Thanks for your help,
Barry
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
coraladdict, I had considered a 72x24x20"H myself if my square tank (42x42x20) wasnt going to fit where I wanted it to. I was going to use 6x54wattT5s staggered across the tank, but only staggered to 6" from either end, and then two 250wattDE pendants in between. The ends might drop off a little in light (I used to have 125g planted tank with only 4' bulbs down the center and the coverage was fine), but the center would remain bright even though the MHs would be 2' apart, thanks to the T5s.
But then two things came up... Sure, I could fit 6 rows of T5s (2.5" reflectors) in with dual PFO HQI reflectors, but PFOs arent exactly the best reflectors out there. I would much rather have a Reef Optix3 or the new Lumenarc DE pendants... and they are much thicker. So T5s + halides werent going to work as easy. Then I saw tanks like this...
and realized that MH's might just be getting in the way (that tank above is 430g lit with about 1000watts of T5s only... good luck doing that with halide). I think that 8 rows of 4' or 5' T5s might be plenty. I was going to do 3 rows of 5' bulbs on an IC660 (I have it already), and then 6 rows of 4' bulbs on 3 regular T5 ballasts. That would be enough to light a 180 up pretty nicely (9 rows of bulbs for about 624 watts), and it would be more than enough for a 20" tall tank. I know not all bulbs are made in 5', so having both 5' and 4' keeps things open, but w/o using 2x as many bulbs like I would have to with two banks of 3' bulbs. Either that, or I get an 8' tank and just run two banks of 4' bulbs.
But then two things came up... Sure, I could fit 6 rows of T5s (2.5" reflectors) in with dual PFO HQI reflectors, but PFOs arent exactly the best reflectors out there. I would much rather have a Reef Optix3 or the new Lumenarc DE pendants... and they are much thicker. So T5s + halides werent going to work as easy. Then I saw tanks like this...
and realized that MH's might just be getting in the way (that tank above is 430g lit with about 1000watts of T5s only... good luck doing that with halide). I think that 8 rows of 4' or 5' T5s might be plenty. I was going to do 3 rows of 5' bulbs on an IC660 (I have it already), and then 6 rows of 4' bulbs on 3 regular T5 ballasts. That would be enough to light a 180 up pretty nicely (9 rows of bulbs for about 624 watts), and it would be more than enough for a 20" tall tank. I know not all bulbs are made in 5', so having both 5' and 4' keeps things open, but w/o using 2x as many bulbs like I would have to with two banks of 3' bulbs. Either that, or I get an 8' tank and just run two banks of 4' bulbs.
epicfish
New member
I'm thinking of a retrofit system but I had a question.
I'm a little tight on money right now, and don't need great amounts of light (FW planted tank). I plan to buy a pre-built retrofit kit with an Advance ICN-2S54-90C ballast. It's designed for 2x54w T5 bulbs.
Right now, I plan to get two kits, so 4 bulbs total run by two ballasts. There's T5 NO bulbs that are 28w, and T5 HO bulbs that are 54w. Can I put in a 28w bulb into the ballast and have it overdrive the bulb to 54w? Has anyone tried this?
I'm a little tight on money right now, and don't need great amounts of light (FW planted tank). I plan to buy a pre-built retrofit kit with an Advance ICN-2S54-90C ballast. It's designed for 2x54w T5 bulbs.
Right now, I plan to get two kits, so 4 bulbs total run by two ballasts. There's T5 NO bulbs that are 28w, and T5 HO bulbs that are 54w. Can I put in a 28w bulb into the ballast and have it overdrive the bulb to 54w? Has anyone tried this?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I would throw UVL Super actinics in the Maristar.
For the others get a 8x54 watt Ice Cap retrofit. Run 3 rows of Aquablues and 1 Rows of Blue Plus at the front.
You could use the SA's in the Maristar for dusk/dawn, then add a row of blue plus and Aquablues on the T5's, then add the 2 more rows of T5 Aquablues and finally the halides. Should me a nice scheme.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Lots of Blue Plus lamps. I would probably use 2 Aquablues 3 Blue Plus and one UVL Super Actinic. Maybe even go 1 Aquablue, 1 Actinic and 4 Blue Plus is you want a very blue look.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Haven't tried it.
coraladdict
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8399029#post8399029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
coraladdict, I had considered a 72x24x20"H myself if my square tank (42x42x20) wasnt going to fit where I wanted it to. I was going to use 6x54wattT5s staggered across the tank, but only staggered to 6" from either end, and then two 250wattDE pendants in between. The ends might drop off a little in light (I used to have 125g planted tank with only 4' bulbs down the center and the coverage was fine), but the center would remain bright even though the MHs would be 2' apart, thanks to the T5s.
But then two things came up... Sure, I could fit 6 rows of T5s (2.5" reflectors) in with dual PFO HQI reflectors, but PFOs arent exactly the best reflectors out there. I would much rather have a Reef Optix3 or the new Lumenarc DE pendants... and they are much thicker. So T5s + halides werent going to work as easy. Then I saw tanks like this...
and realized that MH's might just be getting in the way (that tank above is 430g lit with about 1000watts of T5s only... good luck doing that with halide). I think that 8 rows of 4' or 5' T5s might be plenty. I was going to do 3 rows of 5' bulbs on an IC660 (I have it already), and then 6 rows of 4' bulbs on 3 regular T5 ballasts. That would be enough to light a 180 up pretty nicely (9 rows of bulbs for about 624 watts), and it would be more than enough for a 20" tall tank. I know not all bulbs are made in 5', so having both 5' and 4' keeps things open, but w/o using 2x as many bulbs like I would have to with two banks of 3' bulbs. Either that, or I get an 8' tank and just run two banks of 4' bulbs.
How did you come up with 624 W ?
Fliger
New member
OK, I need advice! Currently I'm running -
2x250W Phoenix off HQI with a blue white hue
54W - 2xBlue+, 1xSA, 1xAquable - these 4 bulbs off the 660 run very very cool blue
I'm switching to a pendant with MUUCH less power -
2x150W off Icecap E-ballasts, bulb is VERY white, no blue or yellow tint
There are still 4x39W T5's built-in but they are driven by IC ballasts - not the 660. Apparently they run them to spec.
Can you recommend something that overall will give me a slightly blue hue when they're all on? I was thinking of going 2xAquablue, 1xSA, 1xActinic+ What do ya think? The MH is very cool white. Also what brand T5? I'd like to place an order with reefgeek tomorrow.
Kinda scared going from exactly 1,000W to about 480W.
TIA!
David
2x250W Phoenix off HQI with a blue white hue
54W - 2xBlue+, 1xSA, 1xAquable - these 4 bulbs off the 660 run very very cool blue
I'm switching to a pendant with MUUCH less power -
2x150W off Icecap E-ballasts, bulb is VERY white, no blue or yellow tint
There are still 4x39W T5's built-in but they are driven by IC ballasts - not the 660. Apparently they run them to spec.
Can you recommend something that overall will give me a slightly blue hue when they're all on? I was thinking of going 2xAquablue, 1xSA, 1xActinic+ What do ya think? The MH is very cool white. Also what brand T5? I'd like to place an order with reefgeek tomorrow.
Kinda scared going from exactly 1,000W to about 480W.
TIA!
David
loweryster
Active member
Your not getting cold feet are you fliger:lol: ?? That fixture is awesome.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I think that will give you what you want.
coraladdict
New member
Ok 
creep
New member
How high should i mount my T5's over my tank so it doesn't raise the temp of my water? I just got my tek light 4x39w fixture for my 40 breeder. And i put it on there with the optional legs. When i didn't raise it up at all my tank temp shot up to about 85. So I then raised it up as far as it can go and put a fan next to the tank to help cool it down. What is the best height to have them set at?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Yes, ATI if possible.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Around 4" is best.
- Status
