The T5 Q&a Thread

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Re: T5s on IceCap 660

Re: T5s on IceCap 660

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8764404#post8764404 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by funnyguyMI
Hey all.

I have a quick question about running T5s on an IceCap 660 ballast. I've heard that this ballast will overdrive the 4' bulbs to 80W. Does anyone know what it overdrives the 3' and 2' bulbs to? Also, does this shorten the life of the T5 bulbs?


Thanks,
-Mike
Click to expand...

Lamp life is an ongoing debate. As long as you use fans the lamps wont die early but likely wont last quite as long as normally driven lamps.

The 39 watters are drivn to around 60 watts and the 24 watt runs around 50 according to IC.
 
Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8764482#post8764482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Lamp life is an ongoing debate. As long as you use fans the lamps wont die early but likely wont last quite as long as normally driven lamps.

The 39 watters are drivn to around 60 watts and the 24 watt runs around 50 according to IC.
Click to expand...

do you know if the lumen output is linear in relation to the watts applied?

if so, then I would only need 2 t5 lamps (~8000 lumens) with an icecap 430 ballast... i could afford that. Do you guys think this is enough light?

-latches109
 
Does any company make a 60" fixture? I can't find one on the net anywhere. Do you have to retro it? What ballast should be used that way?
 
Re: Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

Re: Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8765639#post8765639 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latches109
do you know if the lumen output is linear in relation to the watts applied?

if so, then I would only need 2 t5 lamps (~8000 lumens) with an icecap 430 ballast... i could afford that. Do you guys think this is enough light?

-latches109
Click to expand...

The 54 watt lamps are brighter than the 80 watt lamps when they are overdriven. I assume the 39 and 24 watt lamps are going to be even brighter than the 54's but without trowing a PAR meter on a system it is really just a guess. The 54 watt lamps pick up about 35% output overdriven.
 
I am considering either the Solar Flare 48" 6 bulb fixture or possibly the 60" 6 bulb 80 watt Ultra Solaris fixture made by Fauna Marin which comes with Aquascience bulbs Does anyone have experience with either of these units? Aquascience bulbs?
Noise level of Solar Flare? and cooling abilities of Fuana Marin? concern me, appreciate everyones help
 
The Flare is overdriven with Ice Cap internals so it is going to b intense. Just a matter of if you need the intensity. The Aquascience lamps seem to be the same or at least made from the same manufacturer as the Giesemanns. Not as good as ATI but pretty close.
 
I have the Solar Flare and it is absolutely great, for some reason though the Ice Cap fans are louder than most, it is not the air movement noise that is loud it is more of a whining motor noise, not too loud but more so than the fans that are generally on the Aquactinics 5 lamp fixtures. The fixture itself is really bright, I love it, and the customer service from Aquactinics is extremly good.
 
I have a question about a workhorse 7 ballast can it fire the following configurations of bulbs not sure if
I just want to use it for supplemental or full blown light.
2x24
4x24
6x24
8x24
Now I know that 8 may not fit on my tank but I just want to know if it would be possible to light that many or that few.
 
Could I put a T5 fixture not retro in a canopy if it is tall and well ventelated without heat being an issue?
 
For the pheonix 14,000K, the UVL super actinic or the G-man super actinic would be the best suppliments, as the only thing the pheoix lacks is actinic, or it would be a 20,000K. Another great combo is the Ushio 14,000Ks and ATI blue+ bulbs. Its a slightly less blue combo (more range in the daylight spectrum), but very crisp and blue like the pheonix (and the Ushio has a good amount of actinic already).
 
RDMPE,

What ^^^ Said

I'd say depending on your taste the UVL SA is the best option for a stand alone actinic. I personally think the combination of a Blue Plus and either ATI Actinic or Giesemann Pure Actinic is a nicer look than just the UVL lamp which is a little more blue than the straight Actinic lamps sold by other manufacturers. In your case, supplimenting 14K halides you want plenty of actinic. I would probably try a Super Actinic and either the Pure Actinic or ATI Actinic Blue. The dusk/dawn look wont be quite as good as it would with a combination of blue plus and actinic but the look with the halides should be better.
 
Does anyone have experience with the Ultra Solaris T5 fixtures made by Fuana Marin that Aquarium Obsessed is selling
Price looks good but I am wondering about cooling mechanism
 
Help!

I'm starting a new 120g AG (48x24x24) and would like to use T5'S. My choice is the Nova Extreme 8 bulb or the Tek 8 bulb. Mostly LPS and clams. Need best bulb combo and brand recomendation. Also, if you all have any other recommendations that won’t cause me to have to eat Mac and Cheese for an extended period I am open to suggestion. I have toyed with MH t5 combo but I don't think I need that much light for what I'm interested in.

Thank You for any help!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8772658#post8772658 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Scott Holman
Does anyone have experience with the Ultra Solaris T5 fixtures made by Fuana Marin that Aquarium Obsessed is selling
Price looks good but I am wondering about cooling mechanism
Click to expand...

No, not yet. I am a fan though already. I simply like the modular design and future-proof upgradability of it. Want new reflectors? Simply snap the old ones off, and place the new ones on. The waterproof endcaps, active cooling, and open design are sure Im great. I have caught reviews in the German forums for them, and they appear to be very good. ATI makes their clone of it (sunpower) as well as Aquaconnect (lumimaster)... as they are all pretty much a box to mount a retrofit ballast inside and waterproof endcaps to. As for the cooling, I dont think the fan cools much beyond the ballast, but these designs are open at the ends with the intention that you can use one of those clip-on fan-banks (that every T5 selling company also makes) at the ends to blow over the bulbs... prolly a better solution than most of the built in fan solutions out there.

The price is hard to complain about as well. They are a little bit more than the Tek, but they are of course built better (the Tek doesnt have active cooling, laquer coated reflectors, or waterproof endcaps), and they do come with a full set of Aquascience bulbs... a bulb said to be better than the ATI's by the lighting testers in Germany (sorry, I know I am referring to the Germans alot here which doesnt help because all of the posts I would link would be in German anyways, but they are the only ones who have had access to these products and done the testing so far... for every Sanjay here, they have 10 over there).

I plan on ordering one next month when I get back from the UK for my new tank... I hope to test one then... time allowing (and depending on if Aquarium Obsessed has the model I want).
 
Tank Photos After Switching to T5's

Tank Photos After Switching to T5's

Grim, thanks for all the help. Here are a few pics of my tank with the T5's. There are still 3 layers of window screening between the tank and the lights, but it seems very bright already. The only thing that is a little odd is watching the chromis change from green to blue as they swim forward and back in the tank.

150 gallon tank with 5 ft T5s with Icecap reflectors:

Front
Giesemann Pure Actinic 03
ATI Blue Plus
Giesemann Midday Sun
Giesemann 11000K Aquablue Plus
Giesemann Midday Sun
ATI Blue Plus
Back

PanOfTankUnderT57.JPG


BrainUnderT53.JPG


LeftSideUnderT5Actinic8.JPG
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

Re: Re: Re: Re: T5s on IceCap 660

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8766157#post8766157 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The 54 watt lamps are brighter than the 80 watt lamps when they are overdriven.
Click to expand...

Of course theyre brighter Grimm, its the same amount of electricity over a 20% shorter tube.
 
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