The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
OK, for all you people who thought I was wacked when I said halides were better for a mixed reef read the difference in them numbers and weep:lol2:
The T5 Q&a Thread
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7thheaven
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8788415#post8788415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 7thheaven
Dear Experts~!!
I can not find the thread about TEK par level with/without fan...
I have questions about cooling..
1. I read thread about TEK cooling and the par level is decreased
after time goes on without cooling fixture. That is because the heat is caused the problme in Bulb or Ballast in fixture?
2. If Ballast is away from fixture, Heat problem is not existed?
3. If I use icecap 660 ballast in TEK 6bul fixture, and the 660ballast is far from fixture, it is ok not to install fan in fixture?
Thanks...
Dear The Grim Reefer~
Could you tell me about my questions?
Thanks in advance~!!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You still have to cool the lamps if you overdrive. The IC ballasts run pretty cool, don't need to cool them. IME cooling the ballast didn't make a difference. Might give you a little extra in a fixture,
7thheaven
Premium Member
Thanks The Grim Reefer...
You mean the heat has a bad effect to lamp itself?
so I should remove the hot air in fixture...
Is it correct what I thought?
I think the par decreasing of lamp is because the heat has a bad effect to
ballast
your reply means it is not true..right?
You mean the heat has a bad effect to lamp itself?
so I should remove the hot air in fixture...
Is it correct what I thought?
I think the par decreasing of lamp is because the heat has a bad effect to
ballast
your reply means it is not true..right?
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Many of the units coming from overseas have active cooling for the ballasts and the bulbs. Of the two, the bulbs are more important, but not always as easy to cool. This is why those clamp-on 120mm fans are so popular... its sometimes easier to have the fans seperate from the fixture to get the right angle to cool everything.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
if the lamps get too hot or cool output decreases. If you are running the Tek fixture it is best to hit it with air from behind the tank so it doesn't blow directly on the lamps. That will cool the lamps and ballast. You just need to create air movement around the fixture.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8789325#post8789325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
OK, for all you people who thought I was wacked when I said halides were better for a mixed reef read the difference in them numbers and weep:lol2:
I dont know Grim... while you are correct, those readings are pretty similar overall. In this case, the halide has a slightly higher peak in the center, under the bulb, but is very weak at the edges. The T5s just spread out that intensity across the whole top. But the readings at the bottom of the tank are nearly identical (note that this just happens to be the case here, but usually isnt the case when comparing halides and T5s). So the only real advantage I can see is the dark areas at the upper corners where the halide doesnt reach... but what are you going to do... put shrooms in your upper corners? To me, the T5s seem more functional. I constantly juggle SPS colonies with the halides to try to get a layout where one SPS doesnt shadow another in the small area they have in the center. With the T5s... the whole top is my high-light area... and I still have all the low-light zones at the bottom that are in this case the same as the halide.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Id say going from 350 dead center to 220 what, 10"away horizontaly is a pretty good drop. Its enough to be able to keep SPS and higher light softies happy at the same level in the tank.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
that last pic? That was a halide pendant using a M80/HQI ballast and a 250wattDE 20,000K EVC bulb.
lvreefer
New member
Stager the five footers or if your tank and pockets are deep enough. mount 24" bulbs front to back.
Sorry for chiming in late. I am currently running a 6 bulb TEK fixture over a 120g (4’x2’x2’) mixed reef. I agree with both The Grim Reefer and hahnmeister. I’m having a crazy time acclimating low light corals because the coverage is so good. I have Maxima’s growing on the sand, and at the same time, have a hard time placing shrooms and zoos. When I had halides (smaller, different tank) I could easily place corals. So back to the same old question, what type of corals will you keep?
With that said, I could not be happier with T5’s and I love my TEK. I’ll have to post pics of my fan set up. Its really easy and customizable, if that’s a word.
michaeltwana
New member
65 show and 210 need ideas?
65 show and 210 need ideas?
what units should i buy for both the 65 is 36x18x24 and the 210 is 72x24x30(i think--have to measure). want to grow everything sps,lps, and soft...ideas????
65 show and 210 need ideas?
what units should i buy for both the 65 is 36x18x24 and the 210 is 72x24x30(i think--have to measure). want to grow everything sps,lps, and soft...ideas????
michaeltwana
New member
has anyone heard of....
has anyone heard of....
has anyone heard of aquarium lights on e bay...is it crap???
has anyone heard of....
has anyone heard of aquarium lights on e bay...is it crap???
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
You can do twin banks of 3' bulbs... many do. Even the Tek light fixtures are really less than 3' long, as T5 bulbs are really about 1-1/2" shorter than their listed length.
Ecomomics-wise, I think that for a 6' tank, 5' bulbs are just fine though. That 6" at each end is no more than if you were placing halides (you dont place your halides at the very ends), and even without staggering, they still cover the ends very well. The reason I say 'economics wise' is because its cheaper to have to buy 6 rows of 5' bulbs than 12 rows of 3' bulbs... as the bulbs all cost about the same.
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