The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9066286#post9066286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by casingbill
Grim, I know you said the coralvue for cheap and the icecap for quality, but do you have an opinion on the tek retros? They are on special at hellolights. They come with bulbs. Also I plan on going with 6 bulbs. What bulb colors would you recommend? Here is a link....


hellolights

Compare the kit you are looking at with the Tek retros from reefgeek.com... you might find a better price at geek even with the sale, and FWIW, geek is known for matching otherwise.

Beyond that, the geek advantage is that they will allow you to swap out the Tek reflectors for the nicer Icecap SLR reflectors for a few bucks per bulb. That makes for a much nicer retrofit.
 
what ^^^ Said



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9066286#post9066286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by casingbill
Grim, I know you said the coralvue for cheap and the icecap for quality, but do you have an opinion on the tek retros? They are on special at hellolights. They come with bulbs. Also I plan on going with 6 bulbs. What bulb colors would you recommend? Here is a link....


hellolights
 
1 Aquablue, 2 Blue Plus 1 UVL Super Actinic

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9067393#post9067393 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishkeeper00
Hey Grimm

I'm running a 4x54 current fixture over my 75 and getting ready to replace the bulbs soon. I would like a 20k look without losing any growth of my sps corals.What bulb set up could I use?
 
I was thinking oh using 1 aquasun 1 aquablue plus and 2 super actinics. Would this give me a 14kk look? I don't want 20kk but 14kk(like the EVC 14kk) I like.
 
I think I would do this, aquasun, aquablue blue plus super actinic. Not sure the SA and 2 Aquablues would wash out the tint of the Aquasun.
 
I've been reading a number of these posts. Holy smokes - this is a whole new world. It's possible I should stay in "New to the hobby" with this.

Our LFS set up our 72 bow with 4x65 Current USA pc lighting - 260 total watts or ~3.6 watts per gallon, unless I missed something really fundamental.

We have SPS (Orange, Green, Purple Monti's), LPS (Pineapple, Wellsophyllia, Trumpet/Candy Cane, Bubble, softies (Pom-Pom and Pulsating Xenia, Alveopora), Torch, green, blue, and red shrooms, orange and blue ricordea, zoo (Button Polyp), and a Toadstool Mushroom Leather.

A Current USA Nova T5 fixture would fit in the ventiliation holes I'd already cut in my canopy. I can get a 2x54 with bulbs for $250. Including the white lights, I understand this to be 216 total watts, or 3 watts per gallon.

Is this a good idea, i.e. it would allow for a clam or higher-light demand coral - wouldn't be too much for the corals that we have?

Would it likely improve coral coloration or overall health (not an issue at this time, just looking down the road)?

Sorry if a similar question has been asked - I've read quite a bit and didn't see it. And thanks for any insight you can share.
 
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Maybe this was asked/answered before, if so I appologize for cluttering the thread. But I was wondering, when overdriving 54W T5 with 80W ballast what does it do to spectrum of the bulb? In theory, the higher energy - the higher frequency (lower wavelength). Or am I on drugs again? :)
TIA
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9072524#post9072524 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SpankinNew
Sorry for my ignorance - what's a "retrofit"?

A retrofit is all the seperate parts you need to mount the lights in an existing canopy... ballast, wire, endcaps, reflectors...

'Some assembly required'

The results are often better with a retro than a fixture though, unless you are willing to spend some $$$ on a fixture, not a cheapo Current USA unit that wastes 60% of its output by not having individual parabolic reflectors.
 
FYI for all about the TEK retro. the kits apparently come with new reflectors that appear to be identical to the icecap SLRs.

TEK II REFLECTORS

i stumbled across this when i found out the kit i ordered would be the new revision. the kits come with a workhorse ballast now but their site states that it operates at t5 spec so i'm assuming it has soft start.

REV II KIT
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9072548#post9072548 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
Maybe this was asked/answered before, if so I appologize for cluttering the thread. But I was wondering, when overdriving 54W T5 with 80W ballast what does it do to spectrum of the bulb? In theory, the higher energy - the higher frequency (lower wavelength). Or am I on drugs again? :)
TIA

Yes and no. If you were to look at a graph of the different outputs, the line that represents the different spectrums is the same. If you look at Sanjay's reeflightinginfoarchive.com graphs, its a bit like comparing the same bulb that runs on a Icecap ballast to one on a M80 ballast. The line's curvature stays the same, but with the M80 ballast, the line is a little bit higher.

Technically, that means its the same spectrum then, no?

Well, not really. If you compare the %'ges of different wavelengths, you might find that even though everything was boosted by the same numerical value, adding a PAR value of 5 to 90 isnt as significant as adding that 5 to 5. This is often how it is when you overdrive a bulb. The red spectrum might be non-existant, but you boost its output that little bit and all of a sudden you have a 100% increase in red wavelengths, and only a 5% increase in the blue. Being that with some bulbs like the blue and actinic bulbs, this means that the look can change quite a bit, since if you boost all spectrums in ROY G BIV, and the bulb
normally only makes blue and purple... raising all those other wavelengths, even if they still pale in comparison the the huge blue spike: all together they add up, and in a big way because there will be 100% more red, orange, yellow, and green than there was before, and only 5% more blue, and 10% more purple say.

Its like when you go diving. As you go deeper in the water, the light field graph doesnt change much after 5m...
figure-4.gif

But as you go deeper, the color changes, right? It gets bluer, no? Well, how could this be? If you look at the red spectrum at 5m, its still barely there, and even though the graph doesnt change much if any, at 10m of depth, that value goes to nil. So even though the graph is the same, the overall appearance is much different... while the blue levels might have decreased by 20-25%, the red was reduced by 100%. This applies much in the same way to overdriving a bulb... except you are raising all values. With some bulbs you luck out, as even with the raised output and line graph, there may still be no values for warmer spectrums with a blue bulb, but this is not the norm. Most bulbs that have a narrow spectrum (which happen to be blue and actinic in this case) end up looking 'whiter' when overdriven. The same would be true if we had a narrow output bulb that made red light... raising its output would increase its bluer spectrums more than red.
 
Thanks, hahnmeister. That's a whole new dimension. My sense was that Current USA were low-end. For me, it means I need to replace my canopy as well (or accept the now-unsightly holes in it).

I have quite a bit of research to do, including mounting options. I see that there are a number of different bulbs, and associated specifications to consider.

I'd rather not detract from this thread any more than I already have. I'm not informed enough to participate (yet).

Again, thank you.
 
hey guys, if I currently have:

GE 6500K
2x Blue+
Aquablue

and I switch to:
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

Will that give me a tad more blue? I skimmed thru some posts here and that seemed to be the recommended 4 bulb combo.

Thanks!
Aaron
 
hahnmeister, thanks for explanation. So, basically it all depends on what type of bulb gets overdriven. Is there an illustration of some sort what happens to different bulbs "on steroids"? (Like: Blue+ gets whiter, etc...)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9072589#post9072589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by revclyburn
Hey Grim


what was the nicest mixture of bulbs you've seen on a 6x54?

edwin

There really is no one nicest mix. You want a regular actinic lamp in the mix, one daylight or sun which could be anything from the GE3000K to a genaric 10000K lamp, and some blues.

The nicest 6 lamp mix I ever used was 1 actinic, 1 sun 2 blueplus and 2 aquablues.
 
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