The T5 Q&a Thread

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well I received my 72" 14 bulb aquactinic fixture a couple of weeks ago...and last night I ordered my bulbs...I went with the ones that you suggested Grim...

FRONT

ATI Blue plus
UVL Super actinic
GE daylight
ATI Blue plus
GE Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

Considering that the 1, 4, and 7 bulb are on one switch and the 3, 5 are on another and then the 2, 6 on one also...are they in the order that I will want them for these switches the way they are so that I can have the dusk/dawn/dusk ??

Also, thanks so much for all the good advice on this thread.. I don't know how you keep up with it, Grim and everyone else that contributes to it...

Jenni
 
Very often sudden changes in the lighting can cause changes in color as well as the growth rate of corals. Each coral has multiple chemicals that absord particular frequencies of light and atribute to the growth and coloration of the coral. The corals are very adaptive and will adjust the ratio of these chemicals to make the best use of available light. When the peak frequencies change it causes that balance to to shift and the corals need to go through a readjustment period.

Now you noted your prior lighting was 3 250 Watt MH units plus 2 VHO bulbs. What were the brands and the color temps of these bulbs. You now have 6-T5's and idealy you should match them to initially give you as simular light as possible to your old lighting set up. Since you cannot duplicate it there will be an adaptive period for your corals. Once this adaptive period is over than you slowly change out one bulb at a time to change the spectrum to where you like it visually with waiting a few weeks between each change giving your corals a chance to adjust to these more conservative changes.

It sould also be noted that you can frag out a specific coral into 6 different frags.
Put each frag into a tank with slightly different lighting. Then compare them a year later it it is not unusual to see drastic color differences between the corals coleration.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9489381#post9489381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr D smack
I have six T-5 54W icecap retro kit on my 120 long. I love the appearance of the lights. My ? is some of the corals are loosing their color and they have stopped growing. I have 3 blue bulbs and three white. I belive the blue are pure antics and the white are anic, 50/50 looking. What can I do to get the color back and growing. I had these corals in a 225 gal with three 250W MH and 2 VHO's. Before I changed tanks the corals had great color and growth.
Click to expand...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9490416#post9490416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stixjew


Have emailed reefgeek to see if the ice cap ballasts will work off our different (240 volt, active- netrual and earth 3 pin system over here) house wiring.I hope they do! Also our bulb range is a little limited with the best brands like geisman, uvl, ati being either non existent or very expensive. Others such as Aqua v, sylvania and hagen are much cheaper tho it may be worth ordering overseas if the bulbs survive the journey.Cheers
Click to expand...

One option I had found when working between Erope and the US for several year is that there are power adaptors available. These adaptors will take your 240 Volt house power and correctly convert it to 120 volts so you can use the American fixtures.

Simularly individuals looking at eropean fixtures can get addaptors to convert there 120V house current to 220 or 240 volts.

The only remaining issue is the difference is cycles with the US on 60 Hz, Western Europe on 50 hx, and some other contries on even lower hertz. For lighting this should make a huge difference if any.

Dennis
 
Can someone recommend (a plug and play) fan for the tek fixtures. I'm changing the lamps on my unit and would like to run a fan to help with heat, lamp efficiency, etc.
I'm using the SLS legs, and not suspending the unit.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9483090#post9483090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you were an idiot you wouldn't be asking questions:D

I think the aquactinics would be a great fit in your situation.

I'd try this for lamps (reefgeek has the lamps if the Aquactinics dealer doesn't)

Front

Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
Aquablue

The 2nd and 4th lamps are on a seperate circuit so that gives you the Super Actinic and a Blue Plus for dusk/dawn.
Click to expand...

GRIM - Aquarium Specialty does not carry the ATI line. At Reefgeek, the Blue Plus and Aquablue are on backorder for up to 6 weeks. If I can replace the ATI Aquablue Special with the Aquablue Plus by Giesemann, is there a Giesemann or UVL bulb I could use instead of the ATI Blue Plus? Then, I could order everything from Aquarium Specialty right away. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9490416#post9490416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stixjew
A word of thanks to Grim and co for a sustained very informative and relentless effort to all us newbies out there there with persistent bombardment of questions regarding T-5.Without doubt the most in depth information i have come across, ive' absorbed every page and have learn't a bloody swag, well done fella's.

Since i live in Australia and have a slightly limited choice of solid brand names recomended here, i will definately go with the Ice cap reflectors (available here but not ballasts?)and maybe pair them with the Osram e- ballast since that is readily available over here - not too sure if that is the best option available?. Have emailed reefgeek to see if the ice cap ballasts will work off our different (240 volt, active- netrual and earth 3 pin system over here) house wiring.I hope they do! Also our bulb range is a little limited with the best brands like geisman, uvl, ati being either non existent or very expensive. Others such as Aqua v, sylvania and hagen are much cheaper tho it may be worth ordering overseas if the bulbs survive the journey.Cheers
Click to expand...

Go with sylvania if they have the right colors available. They are the OEM for ATI's lamps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9490633#post9490633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by charlesjordanjr
How deep in the tank were these PAR levels measured? Do you have a link to MH Par levels at a similar depth?
Thanks!
-Chuck
Click to expand...

These were not taken in a tank. The numbers are only good for comparison of the lamps measured in that thread.

Hahnmeister has some T5/Halide PAR readings with pictures. He has numerous posts in this thread, PM him and I am sure he can give you a link.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9490640#post9490640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by charlesjordanjr
I have a 7" Walmart clip on fan. Would that be too much air for the bulbs? (I have a 6 bulb Tek Fixture)
-Chuck
Click to expand...

I would want a fan at each end blowing near the end caps. Not sure if your single fan is cooling enough but I bet its close.
 
Start with 2&6, then add in 1,3&5 and 2&4 last.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9490778#post9490778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jennmac415
well I received my 72" 14 bulb aquactinic fixture a couple of weeks ago...and last night I ordered my bulbs...I went with the ones that you suggested Grim...

FRONT

ATI Blue plus
UVL Super actinic
GE daylight
ATI Blue plus
GE Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

Considering that the 1, 4, and 7 bulb are on one switch and the 3, 5 are on another and then the 2, 6 on one also...are they in the order that I will want them for these switches the way they are so that I can have the dusk/dawn/dusk ??

Also, thanks so much for all the good advice on this thread.. I don't know how you keep up with it, Grim and everyone else that contributes to it...

Jenni
Click to expand...
 
Grim - not sure if this last post made on it here - it's not showing up on my screen?? Thanks for your help!!


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
If you were an idiot you wouldn't be asking questions

I think the aquactinics would be a great fit in your situation.

I'd try this for lamps (reefgeek has the lamps if the Aquactinics dealer doesn't)

Front

Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
Aquablue

The 2nd and 4th lamps are on a seperate circuit so that gives you the Super Actinic and a Blue Plus for dusk/dawn.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



GRIM - Aquarium Specialty does not carry the ATI line. At Reefgeek, the Blue Plus and Aquablue are on backorder for up to 6 weeks. If I can replace the ATI Aquablue Special with the Aquablue Plus by Giesemann, is there a Giesemann or UVL bulb I could use instead of the ATI Blue Plus? Then, I could order everything from Aquarium Specialty right away. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493411#post9493411 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
The Grim Reefer- what do you think about this one on a 72 bf? Or even a 90? I would like to have clams, sps, lps, and a mixture of softies. http://www.hellolights.com/488lateklit5.html Also what lights should I get and in what order where bulb 1 is the front??? Could I get 8?
Click to expand...

I am definately not The Grim Reefer but that lighting Tek T5 fixture with the individual reflectors would imo be great for a 90 and even better for a 72.
 
Grim or whoever,

My buddy has a 110 TALL and is about to replace his lighting. He has a 2 x 250 10k MH, and two acticnic t12(vhos). He wants to replace it with a 2x400 MH plus some t-5s. Could he go all t-5s and still do hard corals or does he need MH to get to the bottom.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9494391#post9494391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
Grim or whoever,

My buddy has a 110 TALL and is about to replace his lighting. He has a 2 x 250 10k MH, and two acticnic t12(vhos). He wants to replace it with a 2x400 MH plus some t-5s. Could he go all t-5s and still do hard corals or does he need MH to get to the bottom.
Click to expand...
I would have some MH just because you can fit a lot more watts in that amount of space. With T5s you will be cramming for space with your refroits.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9492149#post9492149 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
What kind of difference will that make?
Click to expand...

The blue plus will rock your world. It is a 20K blue color that gives a different look than a actinic. LPS look really cool under them.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493411#post9493411 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
The Grim Reefer- what do you think about this one on a 72 bf? Or even a 90? I would like to have clams, sps, lps, and a mixture of softies. http://www.hellolights.com/488lateklit5.html Also what lights should I get and in what order where bulb 1 is the front??? Could I get 8?
Click to expand...

Get this instead

http://www.reefgeek.com/product/48_inch__Tek_Light:_6-54W_T5_HO_Fluorescents_(Blue)_-_LIMITED_EDITION_by_Sunlight_Supply

Link is funky, look for the Tek 6 lamp limited edition fixture

It has newer betterer:D reflectors and will fit better over the tank
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9494391#post9494391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
Grim or whoever,

My buddy has a 110 TALL and is about to replace his lighting. He has a 2 x 250 10k MH, and two acticnic t12(vhos). He wants to replace it with a 2x400 MH plus some t-5s. Could he go all t-5s and still do hard corals or does he need MH to get to the bottom.
Click to expand...

Why the 400 watt halides? How tall is the tank? What does he have for ballasts and reflectors?

I would look at upgrading to the Lumenmax reflectors sunlight supply has. A couple of those with good 250 watt lamps is plenty of PAR.
 
Ok so I have my Solar Flare up and running.

Bulbs are as so:
Front
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Actinic White
UVL Aquasun
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Actinic White
UVL Aquasun

I wish it had a bit of a bluer hue to it. Any Suggestions for bulbs that one can usually find locally?
 
I wonder how long that blue limited edition will stay out for?

Grim, should I get the Aquablue plus made by ATI or GE? I heard ATI has a little bit better PAR and lasts just as long as GE.
 
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