The T5 Q&a Thread

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What a bulb the great GrimReefer hasn't tried,

that's impossible, lol. I will have to try them and let you know I guess. Can't find much info on them on the net.

edwin
 
Hey grimm

I have an 8X54w T5-ho retro over a 90gal mixed reef.
it's an ebay special (crappy reflectors, workhorse ballasts)
after bulbs im going to IC660 ballasts
going for that 12k-14k reeflux color
what do you recommend
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10323168#post10323168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HELIREEFER
Hey grimm

I have an 8X54w T5-ho retro over a 90gal mixed reef.
it's an ebay special (crappy reflectors, workhorse ballasts)
after bulbs im going to IC660 ballasts
going for that 12k-14k reeflux color
what do you recommend

I would look at reflectors before a ballast if you can. Using an Ice Cap with no reflectors is kinda like putting bike tires on a vette.

For 8 I would try

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Aquablue
Super Actinic
GE 6500K
Aquablue
Blue Plus
 
If I make a canopy for a 18" wide tank that will be using 4x54, would you recommend to make the canopy 18" wide so that it exactly fits the tank, less wide, or it doesn't matter? The all 4 bulbs in the retro will be in the rear 9" of the tank, cause that's where the SPS are. If I run the 4 54 watt bulbs with a IC660 ballast for 12 hours a day, in how long should I replace them?
Thanks!
Steven
 
Catalina T5s

Catalina T5s

I'm interested in upgrading my simple Dual-strip lighting to a new t5 unit.

As I don't have an amazing amount to blow right now, I've dropped the idea of going with Aquactinic or Tek lighting system and am looking for a more value brand of t5.

I have a 55 gal, FOWLR at the moment but looking to upgrade into some beginner corals and possibly an anemone.

I was leaning towards the Nova extreme, but have been turned off when seeing there are no individual reflectors, as I've heard it would be a waste without.

But the meat of my post, has anyone tried this. <a href="http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/product_info.php?cPath=71_136&products_id=1423&osCsid=12b3f9884984f25b5463f42a3b7dbc7d">Catalina T5 Ind Reflector System</a>

It sounds too good to be true for me. If anyone knows anything about it, I'd love a response.

Thanks
 
I have a Nova Extreme, actually returning it and purchasing an Aquactinic. With the nova, the actinics would work one day, then not the next. It's like a bad ballast. I'm not too impressed now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325584#post10325584 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by darkcirca
I have a Nova Extreme, actually returning it and purchasing an Aquactinic. With the nova, the actinics would work one day, then not the next. It's like a bad ballast. I'm not too impressed now.

Thanks for the info about that. I'm worried about that sort of problem when trying something under $300.

Have you ever read any reviews of these Catalina Solar T5 lights? Even my google searching finds nothing but their own website.
 
Craig- fyi as for the anemone I wouldn't put that high on your list for your first few corals.

Alright anyways guys I have a 90 gallon and i am using 2-250 watt 12 K bulbs. I want to make it more real with T-5 lights. Should I add 2 or 4 bulbs and what different lights should i use.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325627#post10325627 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mushumatt
Craig- fyi as for the anemone I wouldn't put that high on your list for your first few corals.

Appreciate your concern, it would be the last on my list after I get the coral handling down. More of an end-goal unless I got bored and wanted to go out with an anemone implosion.
 
Thanks EAGLES. It's hard to make a straight up color comparison by looking at the pics in that thread, but to me, it looks like the GE 6500K is the closest to the XM10k halide.
 
Grim,

Which way would I get the most par out of my T5s...

1. Acrylic splash shield directly on the water
or
2. No shield 4-6 inches of the water.

Also, I am changing my PC fixture into a fixture with 2 overdriven T5s. The PC has an acrylic shield wich I would assume is for splash and to assist in cooling the bulb by forcing the air to travel the length of the tube. If the bottom was open the air would only cool part of the tube. Are my assumptions correct and if so would I need to keep the shield on once I go to over driven T5s to help with the cooling since there is only a fan on one side?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325808#post10325808 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by E-A-G-L-E-S
I'd say it's between that and the Current 10K(which is not a good lamp) in color.
-jmo

I agree, it is kind of between the two after looking at them again.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325598#post10325598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Craig731
Thanks for the info about that. I'm worried about that sort of problem when trying something under $300.

Have you ever read any reviews of these Catalina Solar T5 lights? Even my google searching finds nothing but their own website.

You can get a new normally driven Icecap retro or even an overdriven one used for sale here for ~$300.

Things to check for for quality sake:
-Individual reflectors(some are better than others)
-Quality name brand lamps(and those are all listed, tested and pictured on here by Grim) :)
-A Triad will normally drive lamps at their rated wattage.
-An Icecap ballast(430/660) will overdrive lamps by ~30/35%
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325809#post10325809 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DidYouSayReefer
Grim,

Which way would I get the most par out of my T5s...

1. Acrylic splash shield directly on the water
or
2. No shield 4-6 inches of the water.

Also, I am changing my PC fixture into a fixture with 2 overdriven T5s. The PC has an acrylic shield wich I would assume is for splash and to assist in cooling the bulb by forcing the air to travel the length of the tube. If the bottom was open the air would only cool part of the tube. Are my assumptions correct and if so would I need to keep the shield on once I go to over driven T5s to help with the cooling since there is only a fan on one side?


I'll throw my 02 cents in to lend Grim a hand hopefully.
1. As long as the shield is kept clean that would be higher.
--but will you get the spread you need then? Depends on reflectors and number of lamps to how wide your tank is.
2. If you overdrive your lamps, does that fixture have legs?
 
It is a 29 gal and I would have 3 lamps. My spread will be good. In fact I don't think I can put both fixutres (one with one lamp and one with 2 lamps) directly on the water because of my overflow. My PC lamp has legs and is slightly over top of the overflow. I will have individual reflectors for each lamp. I think I might be best leaving the single normal driven T5 in the front on the water with the shield. I will change the PC to 2 overdriven with individual reflectors and keep on the legs so it will be high enough and can set slightly over the overflow since I am out of room. I guess the question is do I need the shield to help the airflow??

Thank you for the help...
 
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