The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10823665#post10823665 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SPACEMANS2
in 36 inch system you couldn't fit a 60 inch tube. I agree with you that you probably can't think of anyone who has said they got better growth with the VHOs because there arnt many who have had VHOs as there sole lighting source. I make my claims from EXPERIENCE with a SOLE four bulb T-12 URI with internal reflector system ran off an Icecap ballast and a SOLE four bulb T-5HO ice cap SLR reflectors and ballast system .

Are you kidding me? There are plenty of people who were VHO only and switched.

Like I said, If a T5 with no reflector had higher PAR than a VHO with an internal reflector it kinda hard to argure the VHO somehow puts more PAR in the tank. Remember No Reflector on the T5. With a gloss white background a T5 put about half the PAR to the sandbed (18" below water surface) as it did with the parabolic reflector installed. If you got better growth with VHO's great, use them.

 

[InsaneClownFish]

Grim, that's what I was thinking...a lil more pink. I have 2 39w Giesemann Aquablues and 4 Giesemann Actinic Plus in a Tek on my 40 Breeder. To me the tones look washed out. I liked my old ATI Blue + bulbs and Aquablues better. However, I could never get the right combo. I kept removing GE6500s and ATI aquablues in favor of ATI Blue +.

While this gave the corals a nice florescence, it definately didn't make the colors pop. I really want pinks to pop...hence the idea of the UVL in there.

Do you have a suggestion for a different bulb besides the ATI aquablue?

Also, the Aquactinics uses the workehorse ballasts. Without an EOL safety feature, isn't there a chance of a fire if it tries to ignite a bad bulb.

While I hate the design of the Tek light having no fans, I distinctly remember talking with Greg at ReefGeek(where I purchased my Tek) when the middle section of my Tek fixture would not light. He guided me in the right direction as it was a bad bulb in the mix. He told me the fixtures were designed to not light at all(or at least that section) if there was a bad bulb as a safety feature.

Any thoughts?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

The Aquactinics are all metal, no worries there. You could try the mix you listed and see what you think. Grab a spare GE 6500 and if things look too red just swap out the 3000 or the UVL.

 

[InsaneClownFish]

I like the look of the light on this tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1182514

It's a 16gBB with an Iwaski 175w SE 15k bulb and 2 28wPC actinics for sup.

The light seems clean and clear for a setup that has a faint hints of blue.

Notice how the colors look crisp and destinguished. Pinks look pink...reds look red...blues and greens look sharp...not dull at all.

Is there a bulb combo you would recommend in T5s to closely imitate this look?

I've noticed that everytime I've tried to get that subtle blue ting I lose sharpness, clarity, and it looks a bit dim with T5s- and anything in the pink range ends up washed out or pastel. In the past I've tried throwing more aquablues in the mix with ge 6500k and that makes it worse....yellowish ting.

 

[dphins]

Most people don't have 10 foot corals. We are more concerned with what is going to give my corals more par. With your line of thinking, a 10 foot vho will give you more light then a 250 watt mh.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10823607#post10823607 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SPACEMANS2
again not true. from what you are saying in your case a single 3 foot flourecent bulb would produce the same amount of PAR as 2 or more 3 foot bulbs stacked next to each other. have still not bought my my thoughts? think of this. If you are in a room that is 50 sq feet. and you wanted to getthe highest par reading from a flourecent lamp. your optoins are a 1 foot tube vs a 10 foot tube both with the same diameter. which one would give you the most light ? better yet which would give you the most par? It would be the 10 foot tube because it has a 9 foot advantage of "extra light" on either side of the 1 foot being measured therefore supporting the par readings of the 1 foot being measured.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10824188#post10824188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InsaneClownFish
I like the look of the light on this tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1182514

It's a 16gBB with an Iwaski 175w SE 15k bulb and 2 28wPC actinics for sup.

The light seems clean and clear for a setup that has a faint hints of blue.

Notice how the colors look crisp and destinguished. Pinks look pink...reds look red...blues and greens look sharp...not dull at all.

Is there a bulb combo you would recommend in T5s to closely imitate this look?



I've noticed that everytime I've tried to get that subtle blue ting I lose sharpness, clarity, and it looks a bit dim with T5s- and anything in the pink range ends up washed out or pastel. In the past I've tried throwing more aquablues in the mix with ge 6500k and that makes it worse....yellowish ting.

The Aquasun and Fiji Purple are going to bring in pink and purple colors. I'd do an actinic, Blue Plus and Aquablue. Will be blue but not BLUE!!!!

 

[SPACEMANS2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10824195#post10824195 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dphinsx2
Most people don't have 10 foot corals. We are more concerned with what is going to give my corals more par. With your line of thinking, a 10 foot vho will give you more light then a 250 watt mh.

I'm talking about flourecents
if you read further up he measured a 60 inches against a 36 inches. I was using the room as an example to help you understand. I guess it didn't work so i'll try again. a longer bulb will put out more light because .... there is more surface of to bulb to give off light that would be read by a meter. do you think that 2 inch florecent would give as much par as a 60 inch one if a meter takes a reading in the center of bulbs about 1.5 feet below them? from what you are saying it sounds like you would. if you do then I don't know how else to explain it to you bro. i used the extreams of 60 inches to 2 inches to help clear up the picture.

 

[Antman]

Hello all I just changed my 175W MH from a blueline 14 K to a XM 20 K and my tank is much brighter and not as blue now
I now use one Blue + and one super actinic T5
Its just about time for 2 new t5s also so what would you suggest I do like a bluer tank ,should I do 2 Blue+
any thoughts ?

 

[kysard1]

flourescent bulb comparison article

Here we have a 4000k T5HO vs a 4000 VHO, same length bulbs.

Pentron41 T5HO PAR 69.5

VHO Cool White PAR 105

 

[SPACEMANS2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10824776#post10824776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kysard1
flourescent bulb comparison article

Here we have a 4000k T5HO vs a 4000 VHO, same length bulbs.

Pentron41 T5HO PAR 69.5

VHO Cool White PAR 105

kysard1 I hope this chart will be enough for people to understand.
One could probably say "well they didn't use IC reflectors on the t5hos. " But on the same token you can say they didnt use T-12 VHOs with internal reflectors. I'm not shooting down t5. i'm just saying from my experience t-5hos," BULB FOR BULB" they DON"T produce as much light as T-12 VHOS let alone halides. Maybe one day T-5ho setup could produce as much. but because of the T-5s size of it individual reflectors and standoffs which are the same as a T-12 standoffs you can only mount as many t-5 in a canopy as you could with t-12s. Maybe URI could make t-5s with Internal reflectors and standoffs that arn't as wide that so one could pack twice as many in a canopy. food for thought.

spaceman

 

[The Grim Reefer]

How many people are using 4000K lamps for aquariums?

A GE 6500K has very good output. A phillips 5000K has pathetic output and a GE 3000K has good output, a bit beter than the 6500K.

In the case of widely used aquarium lamps, URI actinic white 50/50 and a ATI Aquablue which is a 60/40 lamp measuring output at the surface of the lamp the T5 had higher output, period. Length of the lamp has nothing to do with it other than the T5 is providing higher output across a longer distance. Once you add the reflector to the T5 it's no contest. Like I said before, if the T5 technology was not better why would the leaders of the VHO lamp, URI/UVL put all their R&D into the T5 line?

 

[The Beaut]

Quick question, Anyone heard or used GLO T5 lighting by Hagen i believe. Saw a whole line of their products from ballasts, bulbs to whole fixtures. Bulbs were not cheap, but the rest was quite affordable.
I saw they had an 18000K bulb, what does that look like and is it any good.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10824639#post10824639 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Antman
Hello all I just changed my 175W MH from a blueline 14 K to a XM 20 K and my tank is much brighter and not as blue now
I now use one Blue + and one super actinic T5
Its just about time for 2 new t5s also so what would you suggest I do like a bluer tank ,should I do 2 Blue+
any thoughts ?

I would personally stick with the Blue Plus/Actinic combo but either will look nice

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10825131#post10825131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Beaut
Quick question, Anyone heard or used GLO T5 lighting by Hagen i believe. Saw a whole line of their products from ballasts, bulbs to whole fixtures. Bulbs were not cheap, but the rest was quite affordable.
I saw they had an 18000K bulb, what does that look like and is it any good.

Those are pretty new. They are probably just a rebranded lamp that is currently on the market. The manufacturers play such a game with K ratings it's hard to say what a 18000K lamp will look like. My guess is either like an Aquablue which is white with a blue tint or a Blue Plus which is like a 20K halide blue.

 

[The Beaut]

thanks for the quick response. I will go get a couple and give them a test. Let you know what they look like.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10824776#post10824776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kysard1
flourescent bulb comparison article

Here we have a 4000k T5HO vs a 4000 VHO, same length bulbs.

Pentron41 T5HO PAR 69.5

VHO Cool White PAR 105

One interesting thing shown on that chart is the difference in lumens vs' PAR. There are a few instances of like style lamps (150 watt halides for example) where the lamp with more lumens had lower PAR than one with less lumens. Just shows the importance of using a PAR meter when comparing lamps. It would be sweet to have the equipment to get the PUR readings as well. Gotta keep buying those lottery tickets I guess.

 

[SPACEMANS2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10825114#post10825114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
How many people are using 4000K lamps for aquariums?

A GE 6500K has very good output. A phillips 5000K has pathetic output and a GE 3000K has good output, a bit beter than the 6500K.

In the case of widely used aquarium lamps, URI actinic white 50/50 and a ATI Aquablue which is a 60/40 lamp measuring output at the surface of the lamp the T5 had higher output, period. Length of the lamp has nothing to do with it other than the T5 is providing higher output across a longer distance. Once you add the reflector to the T5 it's no contest. Like I said before, if the T5 technology was not better why would the leaders of the VHO lamp, URI/UVL put all their R&D into the T5 line?

Were both lamps new? I would put MY ENTIRE R&D in whatever sells too. Wouldn’t you? the fact is the world demands efficiency, and t-5s are more efficient. That’s not saying they put out more. If you do a search in old reef forums about PCs for aquarium use you will find that many people jumped on the PC wagon. and I bet some companies put a lot of R&D into pcs for the aquarium. Again I currently run a T-5HO IC system and have experience PC's and VHO sole systems

 

[kysard1]

[i. It would be sweet to have the equipment to get the PUR readings as well. Gotta keep buying those lottery tickets I guess. [/B]

PUR measuring is killer, damn plated tank keepers have better equipment than reefers, what's up with that?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

The Aquablue I was checking was maybe 3 weeks old at the time. The VHO's were brand new. The guy measured a super actinic which was really low but not having a T5 actinic at the time I couldn't compare that. We dont really depend on actinics for PAR anyway.

Did you see URI jump on the PC bandwagon? They held back a long time and finally worked with Ice Cap (who also moved slow) to develop their T5 line.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10825318#post10825318 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kysard1
PUR measuring is killer, damn plated tank keepers have better equipment than reefers, what's up with that?

Think those are horticulture numbers so that is why. Reefkeeping makes up such a small segment of the market we kinda get treated like the redheaded step children.