The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10709288#post10709288 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mark75
Grim,
What are the 4 best bulbs for my Nova Extreme, and if it matters what order should I place them in my fixture? Thanks!

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714131#post10714131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mic209
hey grim,

First all let me introduce myself, my name is mike and i'm setting up a 40 gallon sps tank, tank dimensions are 36" long, 18" wide and 16" tall. I'm considering a t5 setup over halides, but don't know what fixture, bulbs to go with. Do you know anything about catalina fixtures? They have a new fixture with remote controll timer built in
http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/product_info.php?cPath=71_136&products_id=1503

Do you think this would be a good fixture if i change out the bulbs?

I'd buy a Nova before I would deal with that outfit. A 4 lamp Tek would be a good choice.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10711159#post10711159 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sweetpea355
hey Grim, Could I run 6-60" ho setup for clams and lps or would it need to be a vho setup?
Thanks
Joe

All the T5 VHO's are is overdriven HO lamps. If you are getting a 60" retro from reefgeek it comes with Ice Cap ballasts which will overdrive the 80 watt lamps to around 100. You would be fine with those over a 125
 
I tried reading through this thread and didn't come across this combo or answer.

I have a 54g corner bowfront tank that I want to do all T5. I currently have 2 Odyssea fixtures w/ 24w HO bulbs (1x 11k and 1x actinic each). I should have room on top for a third fixture. Right now I have the fixtures laying on the glass a couple inches from the glass with a couple of rods to create an air gap.

Question is should I opt for the third fixture or rewire the two I have to a IC ballast to achieve greater par. I would like to have some sps midway up in the tank. The other option I thought of was to run 2 off of a IC and the third stock. Also the tank doesn't have a canopy so I need to support these above the tank without a bunch of fans.

Any help with my options and bulb selection is greatly appreciated.

- Ken
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714160#post10714160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smokez01
Bump to that, was thinking same exact question

Grim, thank you so much for answering all these questions, seems like a chore at times LoL,..

What is the difference between the 6.5k, 6k and 3k bulbs?

I see you recommended doing

B+
AB
GE 3k
B+
AB
B+

how would that be over lets say 4B+ and 2GE 6.5k?

I want to try to get a nice bright white/blue look as I have now with my 3 B+ and 3 AB, but think my current set up is lacking in red spectrum.. I am aiming for growth and color but not a too nasty yellowish tank

THanks agian

Go with this
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue
GE 3000K
Aquablue
Blue Plus

I will PM you with another option

I don't know if the actinic really helps with growth but corals react to it so I assume they probably get some benefit from it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714363#post10714363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kenfuzed
I tried reading through this thread and didn't come across this combo or answer.

I have a 54g corner bowfront tank that I want to do all T5. I currently have 2 Odyssea fixtures w/ 24w HO bulbs (1x 11k and 1x actinic each). I should have room on top for a third fixture. Right now I have the fixtures laying on the glass a couple inches from the glass with a couple of rods to create an air gap.

Question is should I opt for the third fixture or rewire the two I have to a IC ballast to achieve greater par. I would like to have some sps midway up in the tank. The other option I thought of was to run 2 off of a IC and the third stock. Also the tank doesn't have a canopy so I need to support these above the tank without a bunch of fans.

Any help with my options and bulb selection is greatly appreciated.

- Ken

Best thing you could do is get a 4 lamp Ice Cap retro. A good reflector will make more difference than overdriving. I would way rather have even a good normally driven T5 retro with Ice Cap reflectors (2 bucks each for the upgrade from Tek reflectors) than an overdriven Odyssea fire trap,,,, errrr I mean fixtures:D
 
Can I replace the reflectors in my Tek?

Can I replace the reflectors in my Tek?

The problem with TekLights is they are poorly engineered. They have no active cooling and mediocre reflectors and as a result they put out 1/2 the Par of a quality fixture like ATI, Aquatinics, Fauna Marin, etc. You may very well be somewhat light limited because of this.

I just installed mine a couple of days ago and compared to what I had before it looks great! (NO Atinic and a 50/50 bulb).

The fan issue I can resolve without a problem. but can I replace the reflectors with better ones?

I would hate to think that I should get rid of the Tek and get another unit. I don't want to tak a hit on the cost getting rid of it and then getting another one.
 
Re: Can I replace the reflectors in my Tek?

Re: Can I replace the reflectors in my Tek?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714784#post10714784 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shackscs
I just installed mine a couple of days ago and compared to what I had before it looks great! (NO Atinic and a 50/50 bulb).

The fan issue I can resolve without a problem. but can I replace the reflectors with better ones?

I would hate to think that I should get rid of the Tek and get another unit. I don't want to tak a hit on the cost getting rid of it and then getting another one.

If this is going on your 65g your tek will be fine. Sure there not the best but they can keep sps just fine.
 
CoralVue Actinic Blue bulbs...

Anyone know if these are true actinic bulbs or are they something like the blue plus bulbs?
 
Tek on top of tank

Tek on top of tank

Does anyone have the Tec fixture resting on the tank or is everyone ponying up for the legs? ( I don't want to hang)

I have mine sitting on it but, I am not leaving it there. Too close to the tank for my comfort given that salt finds its way into anything. I am going to make a canopy to hold the light.

Which brings up a couple of questions:

How far above the tank should the light be if suspended?

Should I remove the glass and replace with egg crate?
 
I have a question about adding T5's for MH supplementation.

My 50G reef tank is 30"x18"x21". It is currently lit by a single 250W Ushio 10k. Color rendention is terrible, every coral takes a orangish hue.


The 250W MH is 10 inches above the water in a canopy. I would like to add 4 T5HO 24" bulbs. Probably two Blue+ and two Super Actinic.

However with these being short (24") T5's and 10 inches above the water surface will they be too far uaway to help with color "pop/flourescence" significantly?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714976#post10714976 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chirocato
CoralVue Actinic Blue bulbs...

Anyone know if these are true actinic bulbs or are they something like the blue plus bulbs?

The Coralvue Actinics T5 lamps are the 460nm (same as the Blue Plus) and not the true actinics.

Tom
Aquactinics
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10715246#post10715246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aquactinics
The Coralvue Actinics T5 lamps are the 460nm (same as the Blue Plus) and not the true actinics.

Tom
Aquactinics

Thanks Tom.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714388#post10714388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Best thing you could do is get a 4 lamp Ice Cap retro. A good reflector will make more difference than overdriving. I would way rather have even a good normally driven T5 retro with Ice Cap reflectors (2 bucks each for the upgrade from Tek reflectors) than an overdriven Odyssea fire trap,,,, errrr I mean fixtures:D
FIRE TRAP?! Oh Noooo. What part is at risk, the fixtures or the remote ballasts? I did alot of searching (other than RC whose search never works) and couldn't find any first hand experiences with fire dangers for T5's. Just a bunch of "my cousins friends sisters neighbor had a fire" and all of these tales were on MH/T5 combos, not the fixtures I have. :confused:

The fixtures appear to be all aluminum, but if there is a particular part at risk such as the endcaps I could change it out.

Doing a retro isn't an option for me since I don't have a canopy. I could however retro the original 30" PC fixture to hold a couple of T5's.

Given I solve all these other things, whats the best 6 bulb combo to support sps that will be approx 10-14" below the lights?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10715239#post10715239 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kysard1
I have a question about adding T5's for MH supplementation.

My 50G reef tank is 30"x18"x21". It is currently lit by a single 250W Ushio 10k. Color rendention is terrible, every coral takes a orangish hue.


The 250W MH is 10 inches above the water in a canopy. I would like to add 4 T5HO 24" bulbs. Probably two Blue+ and two Super Actinic.

However with these being short (24") T5's and 10 inches above the water surface will they be too far uaway to help with color "pop/flourescence" significantly?

Throw them in Ice Cap reflectors and they should work.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10716658#post10716658 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kenfuzed
FIRE TRAP?! Oh Noooo. What part is at risk, the fixtures or the remote ballasts? I did alot of searching (other than RC whose search never works) and couldn't find any first hand experiences with fire dangers for T5's. Just a bunch of "my cousins friends sisters neighbor had a fire" and all of these tales were on MH/T5 combos, not the fixtures I have. :confused:

The fixtures appear to be all aluminum, but if there is a particular part at risk such as the endcaps I could change it out.

Doing a retro isn't an option for me since I don't have a canopy. I could however retro the original 30" PC fixture to hold a couple of T5's.

Given I solve all these other things, whats the best 6 bulb combo to support sps that will be approx 10-14" below the lights?

Actually you will find several first hand experiences with "issues" with the Halide fixtures that include pictures but I was refering to trying to overdrive a cheap T5 fixture.

If you could get reflectors in the fixtures you'd be way ahead. If the fixture is all aluminum then changing the endcaps would be all you need to do BUT!!!! By the time you pay for the ballast/endcaps etc how much more would it cost you to just get a good fixture? Price it all out.
 
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