The T5 Q&a Thread

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Well I picked up 1 Hagen PowerGlo and 1 Hagen MarineGlo in a 48" size on my PowerModul.

Very nice lamps! The MarineGlo is like a BluePlus with a little white thrown in and replaced a GMan actinic plus and is significantly brighter.

The PowerGlo replaced a KZ CoralLight and looks similar and as bright with a slightly yellowish tint.

I hope someone with a PAR meter tests these soon and gives us some hard numbers.

James
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10765844#post10765844 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Try swapping the position of the aquablue and Blue Plus and see what that does for you. If that doesn't work then change out the aquablue for another blue plus. The actinic white is a bit pinkish, they have a 75/25 actinic/daylight lamp that is also a little pink looking too.

But that wont make my actinics more actinic. THe problem I'm having is when I have just my actinics on I find it to be a bit too white for my tastes, and I think that is because the UVL actinic white is too white, even with the geissmann true actinic, the tank is not very blue and the corals don't really glow under it. I like how all 6 bulbs look when they're on together, but when just the two actinic bulbs are on I'd like for more actinic and florescing corals. Should I just get a different bulb all together to replace the UVL Actinic white? Or could I switch it with like the ATI Aquablue or blue plus and have that running with the geissmann to get more actinic during just the actinic cycle?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10766947#post10766947 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SlavicSavage
But that wont make my actinics more actinic. THe problem I'm having is when I have just my actinics on I find it to be a bit too white for my tastes, and I think that is because the UVL actinic white is too white, even with the geissmann true actinic, the tank is not very blue and the corals don't really glow under it. I like how all 6 bulbs look when they're on together, but when just the two actinic bulbs are on I'd like for more actinic and florescing corals. Should I just get a different bulb all together to replace the UVL Actinic white? Or could I switch it with like the ATI Aquablue or blue plus and have that running with the geissmann to get more actinic during just the actinic cycle?

Your Actinic White is overwhelming your GMan True actinic. You might want to replace the AW with a BluePlus, GMan Actinic Plus or possibly a Hagen MarineGlo if still want some white in there. I wouldn't replace the AW with another true actinic bulb as only 2 T-5 true actinics is not very bright IME.

Good luck,

James
 
Thats what I figured. Could I just switch where I have the blue plus now with where the Actinic White is and have good results do you think? Or would I be better off keeping the rest of my bulbs how I have them now and just replacing the AW with a different second actinic white?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10767254#post10767254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SlavicSavage
Thats what I figured. Could I just switch where I have the blue plus now with where the Actinic White is and have good results do you think? Or would I be better off keeping the rest of my bulbs how I have them now and just replacing the AW with a different second actinic white?

If I was you I would do the switch first and hopefully thats what it takes (should look pretty good). Another AW is really only going to look like same unless the one you have now is defective.

Good luck,

James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10766947#post10766947 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SlavicSavage
But that wont make my actinics more actinic. THe problem I'm having is when I have just my actinics on I find it to be a bit too white for my tastes, and I think that is because the UVL actinic white is too white, even with the geissmann true actinic, the tank is not very blue and the corals don't really glow under it. I like how all 6 bulbs look when they're on together, but when just the two actinic bulbs are on I'd like for more actinic and florescing corals. Should I just get a different bulb all together to replace the UVL Actinic white? Or could I switch it with like the ATI Aquablue or blue plus and have that running with the geissmann to get more actinic during just the actinic cycle?

Try running a Blue Plus with each of your actinics for dusk dawn. I think that may give you what you are looking for.
 
OK I see a lot of great reports of good PAR from 48" bulbs, how big a hit do you take going down to the little 24" bulbs ?
 
Okay, I'll try making it so my geissman comes on with my blue plus and i'll stick the actinic white somewhere else in my lineup to come on with the 4 daylights. I didnt mean, by the way, that i'd be replacing the actinic white with another one of the same lamp. I meant like just getting rid of the actinic white and having the geissmann and some other brand of actinic bulb which i dont currently own as my actinics.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10768401#post10768401 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kysard1
OK I see a lot of great reports of good PAR from 48" bulbs, how big a hit do you take going down to the little 24" bulbs ?

Some but i don't know how much, I wouldn't think it would be too bad.
 
Hey Grim,

I have a 72g bowfront that I am setting up as a mixed reef. I have a ATI Tx5 setup with the following bulbs:

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Aquiablue
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus

Now, I am not really digging the blue cast that it has and would like to get to a more daylight-ish/white configuration, if anything I would like to have just a small blue cast. Do you have any recommendations on different bulbs? Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10770221#post10770221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tom Foolery
Hey Grim,

I have a 72g bowfront that I am setting up as a mixed reef. I have a ATI Tx5 setup with the following bulbs:

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Aquiablue
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus

Now, I am not really digging the blue cast that it has and would like to get to a more daylight-ish/white configuration, if anything I would like to have just a small blue cast. Do you have any recommendations on different bulbs? Thanks.

Put your Aquablue in the first position and see what that does. If you still want it brighter try getting a second Aquablue in place of one of the blue pluses
 
You would have to check on the ballast. I've heard PFO uses workhorse ballasts which aren't great but will drive T5's. If the ballast is over a few years old I wouldn't bother with it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10761212#post10761212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
That would be good too.

Still trying to figure this out.

What about power consumption? I need to try and watch the electric bill as much as possible.

Does T5 give you more bang for your buck.

Thanks,
Jason
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10759705#post10759705 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MstgKillr
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Originally posted by MstgKillr
Mr. Grim,

Please help me decide on lights for my new 215 (72 x 24 x 29).

I would like to keep a mixed reef including clams and sps while using a 15" canopy. I don't want to be limited due to lighting.

I am going back and forth between MH, T5, MH & T5, light movers, etc... There is just so many choices I can't decide and its driving me nuts. So if this was your tank what type of lighting would you go with.

Could you be specific with bulb selection, fixture choices, etc...

I just want to say thanks in advance for your help.
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As long as we are spending YOUR money I would do T5's and a halide on a light mover. I would do 39 watt T5's side by side to cover the length of the tank. I would do 5 rows of lamps, 3 in front of the halide and 2 behind it. I would make mounts so the lamps are at least within 6" of the tank. You can use hinges or something if you need to have the front bank of lamps swing up so you can access the tank. I would use Ice Cap reflectors but normally driven lamps.

For the halide I would use a Reefoptix pendant with a 400 watt 20K lamp like a radium.

For all the lamps I would do this

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
UVL Super Actinic
Radium Halide
Aquablue
Blue Plus

You could set the halide so it was fairly close to the tank, like 6 or 8" above and have it cover the tank over 4 or 5 hours. The intense 20K blue should blend in pretty good with the T5's. I think it will give you a kinda bluish 14K halide look overall.

Or you could just get a 72" maristar halide/T5 fixture and call it good


What about 8 x 80w Ice Cap Retro overdriven to 100w?


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An 8x80 watt overdriven T5 setup is going to draw less than 800 watts. 3 250 watt HQI halides are going to draw over 900 watts without supplimental lighting. 4 39 watt T5's will add maybe a couple hundred more watts at most.
 
It would depend on the halide lamps and reflectors you use. Something like a Maristar with 10K XM's is going to be a little better than the T5's PAR wise. If you want a more blue look then the T5's will have more PAR
 
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