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The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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saltwater4life1
Member
I'm not an expert as you can see i just posted another question, But i like the idea of fans there even if you don't use them just in case you ever need them on a hot day. I would run a fan or two just to keep the bulbs in the ideal temp? and for fresh air inside the canopy.
Hopefully Grim can confirm with what i'm saying.
Good luck I'm going through the same problem.
Hopefully Grim can confirm with what i'm saying.
Good luck I'm going through the same problem.
Kenfuzed
New member
I picked up a used Tek 4x 24 fixture for my 54g corner bow front. Upon taking it all apart (to install a custom hanger I made) I noticed that it's powered by a Workhorse 5 mounted along the back side, while the opposite front side has a counterweight in the identical mount to balance the fixture. My question is, has anyone added a second ballast to this fixture? If so, is there something else other than a WH5 I can use in there?
Even though I have a separate Odyssea fixture just for actinics, I would like to separate bulb sets in the Tek to have a better dawn/dusk effect. If I add the second ballast would the remaining WH be too much for the other two bulbs? I also thought of adding an IC430 remotely running 2 of the bulbs but I'm concerned about heat issues.
Even though I have a separate Odyssea fixture just for actinics, I would like to separate bulb sets in the Tek to have a better dawn/dusk effect. If I add the second ballast would the remaining WH be too much for the other two bulbs? I also thought of adding an IC430 remotely running 2 of the bulbs but I'm concerned about heat issues.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Yeah, gotta do fans
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I didn't realize they were using WH's in the Tek fixture. You could use triads or Sylvanias in there
SlavicSavage
New member
Grim,
My current lighting setup is growing a lot of undesirable algae, and I think I would like for it to be a little bit more actinic when all the lights are on. My current bulb configuration is listed below. I think I should trade out the aquasun or the 6500k for something higher in spectrum. Do you have any recommendations?
FRONT
ATI Aquablue
Blue Plus(ballast 2)
UVL Aquasun
Geissmann True Actinic(ballast 2)
GE 6500K
UVL Super Actinic
My current lighting setup is growing a lot of undesirable algae, and I think I would like for it to be a little bit more actinic when all the lights are on. My current bulb configuration is listed below. I think I should trade out the aquasun or the 6500k for something higher in spectrum. Do you have any recommendations?
FRONT
ATI Aquablue
Blue Plus(ballast 2)
UVL Aquasun
Geissmann True Actinic(ballast 2)
GE 6500K
UVL Super Actinic
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If your lamps are over a year old its possible they could be causing algae.
You could either pull a 6500K and replace it with a blue Plus or pull the front aquablue and use the blue plus there.
You could either pull a 6500K and replace it with a blue Plus or pull the front aquablue and use the blue plus there.
lovetoreef
New member
I am putting together a new cube tank ... i plan on keeping a variety of corals from sps to clams to lps - only a few sps - perhaps some montis but pretty heavy on the clams... what is the best system to go with on this tank -
i plan on going with a retro setup with individual reflectors - the tank will be either 24" long or 36" long - 20" deep and most likely bare bottom (to give an idea of the penetration depth needed). I was leaning towards an icecap setup and overdriving them, but, i was hoping for some advice - thanks.
gm
i plan on going with a retro setup with individual reflectors - the tank will be either 24" long or 36" long - 20" deep and most likely bare bottom (to give an idea of the penetration depth needed). I was leaning towards an icecap setup and overdriving them, but, i was hoping for some advice - thanks.
gm
saltwater4life1
Member
i got skipped
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Overdriving a couple of lamps placed over the clam bed would be a good idea but you wouldn't want to overdrive the lamps over the LPS.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10838475#post10838475 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltwater4life1
i got skipped
If the reflectors are worth a damn 4 lamps is all you want or need over a 55. I would grab a Blue Plus and a Aquablue to replace one of the Blues and 10K that come with the units. If you like that look (1 blue plus, 1 aquablue, 10K and Blue) I would run the coral vue lamps you leave i the system 6 months and then change them out with the two you took out. At a year or so I would then go with all new lamps.
Then I would do this
Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Aquablue
lovetoreef
New member
thanks for the feedback - i am leaning towards going with 4 lamps, but, we shall see.
Since it seems this is the thread to post ?'s about T5's in, I'll give my scenario and see if anyone is interested in giving suggestions. I've ran T5 bulbs for the last few years in my 230 tall. I have 3 IceCap 660's, each running 3-46.5" URI 110W bulbs for a total of 9 (990 Watts).
It seems there have been many upgrades/changes to bulbs in the last few years. My tank is 30" deep so I need a lot of penetration. I've been very happy with the performance of my URI bulbs and would not have an issue with using them again. I just don't know what all the options are these days. The hood is custom made, so I can even adjust the length between the endcaps to hold a longer bulb, if they are available.
Any recommendations for this configuration? Basically looking for the best way to light a 30"deep tank using 3 IC-660's.
Thanks for considering this question.
Walter
It seems there have been many upgrades/changes to bulbs in the last few years. My tank is 30" deep so I need a lot of penetration. I've been very happy with the performance of my URI bulbs and would not have an issue with using them again. I just don't know what all the options are these days. The hood is custom made, so I can even adjust the length between the endcaps to hold a longer bulb, if they are available.
Any recommendations for this configuration? Basically looking for the best way to light a 30"deep tank using 3 IC-660's.
Thanks for considering this question.
Walter
saltwater4life1
Member
The reflectors not good?
So get a aquablue and a blue plus to replace one kits bulbs?
Thank you sounds good to me.
jayreef1213
New member
125 Lighting options?
125 Lighting options?
I want to switch over to all T-5's right now I have two 54w attinic with my 2x250w halide retro's. I picked up another salvania balast and an ice cap 660. So would 8 T-5's be enough and what bulbs should I run on what ballast? I know you can over drive with a 660 but which bulb should I? I have a fairly large assortment of SPS and LPS mostly towards the top. Also how high from the water should I hang my bulbs? Thanks for all the info.
125 Lighting options?
I want to switch over to all T-5's right now I have two 54w attinic with my 2x250w halide retro's. I picked up another salvania balast and an ice cap 660. So would 8 T-5's be enough and what bulbs should I run on what ballast? I know you can over drive with a 660 but which bulb should I? I have a fairly large assortment of SPS and LPS mostly towards the top. Also how high from the water should I hang my bulbs? Thanks for all the info.
jamesdawson
New member
Well, if your 220 is 60" long or longer I would have the hood rebuilt to fit 60" lamps. Your 660s will fire 3 each and there are plenty of 60" bulbs available now. I don't know if UVL has made 60" bulbs yet but I bet they will as this is a growing market. 60" bulbs are probably the best deal out there as far as Reef Lighting as they are only a couple more bucks then 4 footers and provide 20% more coverage due to the extra foot of length.
Good Luck,
James
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
They look like the ATI retro reflectors which are very good.
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