The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12031619#post12031619 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skerz
Mr. Grim,

Would an IceCap retro 660 SLR 4x24w (with the right bulb config.) be enough to penetrate and cover a 36"x14"x24"tall tank. Would like to keep a mixed reef w/ sps elevated in tank.

I could make the 36" 4x39w work but, aesthetically the 24w would fit better within the eurobracing.

thanks for any advice.

If you stick with the Ice Cap reflectors and can live with high PAR lamps you might just be better off not using the ice cap ballast on that setup if you want to keep lower light corals. If you do overdrive I would go with the 36" lamps, the 24's are pushed a lot harder and would probably make some things not too happy.

I'd try this for a normal Ice Cap HO system with regular ballasts

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/27
UVL Aquasun
ATI Aquablue

SHould have plenty of PAR for SPS in the upper half of the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12031862#post12031862 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sbcaes
hey guys does anyone know of any other manufacturers of 18" t5 bulbs besides current usa? how do those bulbs compare to say ati or geismann bulbs? and what have you?

Not sure anyone else is making that size T5's. Currents 48" 10K's are OK and the blue looks good but the PAR is pathetic
 
So I can find a good spot to buy the Giesemann bulbs, but what are the acceptable alternatives to the ATI Procolor and the UV Lighting Aquasun bulbs if I cant track those down? And I assume that this combo is also good for growth?...with the 6500K ATI bulb in there.

Oh and btw I'm going with the 8 bulb tek light fixture for my 90gal (which is in the planning pahse).

Thanks for all of the help Grim.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12029004#post12029004 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PCIALF
This is the perfect bulb combo for appearance!!! Thanks

I also found out my LFS reads this forum I was told that i should have bought a 250w MH and that my coral will be dead in 6 months and I should sell it all to him, Amazing closed minded

Thanks


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12013776#post12013776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
ATI Procolor
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic +
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aquablue
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
 
I am going to use the tek 8x54,and would like somone's opinion on my lighting configuration.This tank is a 75G ,I am going to upgrade to a 120G in the future, that is why I'm going to with the 8x54
Will this work for sps&lps
1)54W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent
(3)54W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W Pro Color T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W 75/25 14000K AquaBlue T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W 6500K Daylight T5 HO Fluorescent

Thank you..
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12034949#post12034949 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishdisease
So I can find a good spot to buy the Giesemann bulbs, but what are the acceptable alternatives to the ATI Procolor and the UV Lighting Aquasun bulbs if I cant track those down? And I assume that this combo is also good for growth?...with the 6500K ATI bulb in there.

Oh and btw I'm going with the 8 bulb tek light fixture for my 90gal (which is in the planning pahse).

Thanks for all of the help Grim.

[/QUOTE]

You can use a GE 3000K in place of the Pro Color and a Guisemann Midday instead of the Aquasun
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12035241#post12035241 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ihopss
I am going to use the tek 8x54,and would like somone's opinion on my lighting configuration.This tank is a 75G ,I am going to upgrade to a 120G in the future, that is why I'm going to with the 8x54
Will this work for sps&lps
1)54W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent
(3)54W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W Pro Color T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W 75/25 14000K AquaBlue T5 HO Fluorescent
(1)54W 6500K Daylight T5 HO Fluorescent

Thank you..

Should be fine except I would add another blue plus instead of the GE lamp. You are gonna have a ton of PAR on a 75, go for the extra blue.
 
Thank you for your help Grim.

I just talked to the aquarium division at Sunlight Supply (the dudes who make the Tek Light) and I asked what the difference was between the Horticultural Model and the Aquarium Model.

The only differences I was told was that the horticultural model has only 1 switch for all 8 lamps while the aquarium model has 2, and that the reflective material was slightly different on the aquarium model making it easier to clean up.

So knowing that I can get the horticultural model for $50 less is having the capability to run dusk/dawn cycles important to the health of the reef? Do those of you with Tek Lights run the dusk/dawn cycle?

Thanks once again!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12034889#post12034889 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you stick with the Ice Cap reflectors and can live with high PAR lamps you might just be better off not using the ice cap ballast on that setup if you want to keep lower light corals. If you do overdrive I would go with the 36" lamps, the 24's are pushed a lot harder and would probably make some things not too happy.

I'd try this for a normal Ice Cap HO system with regular ballasts

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/27
UVL Aquasun
ATI Aquablue

SHould have plenty of PAR for SPS in the upper half of the tank.

when you say ''normal Ice Cap HO system with regular ballasts'' does that mean slr set up with a non icecap 660 ballast or use the the icecap 430 ballast.

do all icecap ballasts overdrive bulbs making them ''very high-output'' or just the 660.

thanks, i appreciate the help.
 
Alright Grim
Got a question for ya. I am running a pair of 250 watt retros, with Reeflux 12k bulbs. I want to supplement with a pair of some really bright BLUE actinic T5's. Which bulb would be a great match for this scenario. I have bulbs now that say "Tru" on them, and they don't seem very bright.
Thaks for all your help with this thread.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12034889#post12034889 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you stick with the Ice Cap reflectors and can live with high PAR lamps you might just be better off not using the ice cap ballast on that setup if you want to keep lower light corals. If you do overdrive I would go with the 36" lamps, the 24's are pushed a lot harder and would probably make some things not too happy.

I'd try this for a normal Ice Cap HO system with regular ballasts

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/27
UVL Aquasun
ATI Aquablue

SHould have plenty of PAR for SPS in the upper half of the tank.

what would be the optimal bulb config. for setup w/ ic 660...
4x24w t5v-ho
3x39w t5v-ho


also could anyone point me to any links/sites with info/testing results regarding the
24" 4x24W or 36" 4x39W Powermodule T5 High-Output Fixtures by ATI.


thanks again
 
Last edited:
hey Grim,

you still good with this combo for 6x39 tek for sps, clam, softies on the bottom of 65gal 24 deep?

thanks

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
 
just bought an entire set up with a custom 60x18x18 tank(84 gallons) with a 3" sand bed lighted by 2 65w pc.
it came with a frog spawn, leather and some shrooms, would like to get the reef geek slr 4x54 retro HO

1. what bulbs would you recommend on this set up?
2. what range of coral could i keep with this set up?
3. what set up would you use if you had this tank







:eek2: first post!!! :eek2:
 
75 T5 fixture recom.

75 T5 fixture recom.

Grim, I currently have a mixed reef 75 with a no name brand ebay special Odesey PC 4 blub 65 watts and a 2 bulb hagen glow t5 over it now. We love the color and growth. But the pc's burn out all the time. We want to up grade to an all t5 fixture. We really want to make sure our corals don't get bleached mostly our acans. We don't really have any softies. Mostly LPS, SPS, and a lot of zoas.

So here is the question, I have read this entire tread all the way back to 2006 and am still not 100% sure which way to go.

4x54W Powermodule
6x54W Powermodule
TX5 5-Lamp T5
Solar Flare 6 Lamp

and what bulb selection

I don't want to hurt any thing by over doing it, or spendng any unnesscary money. But at the same time I want to improve our growth and coral colors with out over doing it. I was thinking the 4x54w powermodule would be good but doesn't seem like I will have as big of light color control with only 4 bulb selection. Also doesn't seem like it will be as much light as I have now. Remember my PC's really stink.

So really the bottom line is, are 4 blubs better that what I have now, and is 6 going to be an over kill.

Maybe 5 is the best to split the diff. If I fry all my corals my wife will kill me.
 
I have read through most of the thread, but perhaps I missed it

Does anyone know whether the ATI powermodule also overdrives it's tubes?
 
Grim,

I currently have a 215 gallon (72x24x29) tank with (3) 250 Phoenix 14k bulbs, LAIII reflectors, and M80 ballasts.

I have but currently not using (4) 39w Ice Cap Retro T5's.

I was thinking of adding some supplemental lighting to my tank, but am undecided to go with T5 or VHO.

I could even change to a 10k bulb and add some type of supplemental lighting.

I am trying to get good growth and good colors on a mixed reef including sps and clams.

What do you recommend? Bulb combonations and setup would be greatly appericated.
 
Grim,

I have a 33 gallon (36"x12.5"x17" LxWxH). I have plumbing and some egg crate which will provide some shade at both ends and I have a black center brace in the middle of my tank. I was considering the T5 IceCap HO retrofit at ReefGeeks. As I have some plumbing above my tank, I can't place the lights within 5 or so inches of the water. The top of my canopy is about 12 inches from the water. If I wanted to be able to keep everything from mushrooms up through some SPS would this light fixture be a good one? Also, would I need to build something so that I can mount it 5 or 6 inches off the water or could I just mount it at the top of my canopy (12 inches)? Would I lose too much light to support the diversity corals I want to keep? Finally, from reading a lot of this thread, I believe you would recommend the following bulbs:

Front
Blue +
Actinic
Aquasun
Blue+

Is this correct? About what K would this give (10,000, 14,000, etc.)?

Thanks for all the help.
 
posting this for a fellow reefer

posting this for a fellow reefer

a question he asked I thought he could use your thoughts

Current T5 lighting comparison
I'm putting together plans for a 60H Great Lakes tank which is 36x18. As much as I know the Tek lights and Aquatronics (sp?) are really good T5 systems, they are out of my budget right now. I've narrowed myself down to two different options from Current and would like to know which would be better.

Sundial T5 HO - 4x39w (156w) with Lunar lights
http://www.aquaticmountain.com/produ...m-actinic.html
-Individually contoured reflectors for maximum light intensity
-Dual integrated timers and automatic photocell for dawn/dusk and lunar lighting control
-Cool running, performance-driven electronic ballasts
-European style high output T5 lamps
-Rear-mounted fans designed for standard aquarium canopy installations

Nova Extreme Pro T5 HO - 6x39w (234w), no lunar lights
http://www.aquaticmountain.com/produ...-actinics.html
-Individually contoured reflectors for maximum light intensity
-Cool running, performance-driven electronic ballasts
-Fan cooled for superior color spectrum, output and lifespan
-Independent controls for dawn/dusk applications

What I like about the Sundial fixture is the integrated timers (I haven't read any complaints about them breaking but I guess that could be a problem) and the fact that the fans are on the back which would work better under a canopy.

But, on the other hand, the Nova fixture is higher wattage. But, do I need the extra wattage if I don't plan on getting seriously into SPS? I could always add LEDs myself if I want lunar lights so that's not much of a concern.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12039884#post12039884 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SAreefer
I have read through most of the thread, but perhaps I missed it

Does anyone know whether the ATI powermodule also overdrives it's tubes?

No it doesn't.

James
 
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