The T5 Q&a Thread

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ok but how then does the Ice Cap ballasts or even WH series get away with running the lamps for long periods? They are both "overdriving" the bulbs, and not even to the same extent of the 660/430's...

I dont understand.... or it just doesnt make sense.........
 
Ok, I just went downstairs to play a bit. I dont have a par meter or anything.

WH 3 firing an old 39w bulb compared to the ballastwise I link before.

The ballastwise is maybe, just maybe a tad brighter. Both start the bulbs just fine. I did notice the ballastwise is a bit more slow, like a program start, where the WH3 was instant on.

I dont think running 4X39w would be a problem. So I still do not see what you were talking about Grim.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11933424#post11933424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by black9ice
ok but how then does the Ice Cap ballasts or even WH series get away with running the lamps for long periods? They are both "overdriving" the bulbs, and not even to the same extent of the 660/430's...

I dont understand.... or it just doesnt make sense.........

The workhorse doesn't "Overdrive" the lamps unless wired in a specific way and I am not aware of anyone that has done it long term. The Ice Cap has a lot of circuitry other ballasts don't they wont push more wattage through than the lamp can handle.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11933460#post11933460 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sublime250
and four t5s on a ice cap ballast vs 250w halide in terms of par or lumens?

The Ice Cap is going to pull around 200 watts and I would suspect they would provide as much or more par than 90 percent of the 250 watt halide setups out there.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11933770#post11933770 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by black9ice
Ok, I just went downstairs to play a bit. I dont have a par meter or anything.

WH 3 firing an old 39w bulb compared to the ballastwise I link before.

The ballastwise is maybe, just maybe a tad brighter. Both start the bulbs just fine. I did notice the ballastwise is a bit more slow, like a program start, where the WH3 was instant on.

I dont think running 4X39w would be a problem. So I still do not see what you were talking about Grim.

I am going on the experience of someone who has tried to run the 39 watt lamps on a 54 watt ballast. The working amperage and voltage are not the same for a 54 watt lamp as it is for the 24 and 39 watt lamps.
 
Hmmm, well to add to confusion. I just tried firing one of my old, old AB Specials in 80w form and it fires and looks great.

Seeing I have the ballasts (which seem to work) 3 end cap sets and one reflector, oh and 5 stand off pairs. I guess I will try 4 80w bulbs.

It will be the cheapest route to take, I only need 3 reflectors, 1 end cap pair and then the bulbs.

Since I think I have that straight, any rec's on bulbs? Like I said I am looking for a nice white/blue light. Just seeing this AB special seems good, but if I remember right from my old reef I will need a bit more blue to make the colors pop.

Is a 50/50 mix good then with the AB special and the blue plus?
 
for 4 lamps do 2 Blue Plus 1 Aquablue and 1 GE daylight/

Be real carefule how you set that up. Give it a good test run to make sure the ballast doesn't get hot.
 
Odd tank size

Odd tank size

Hey,
I'm going for a really wide shallow tank and am having a hell of a time picking a fixture.

48x30x16" That's 16" tall. 100% SPS.
I'm comming from a 15,000k iwasaki (which is really white)+ some actinics look and i'd like to keep it.

Could I get away with the 4 bulb ATI power module or will this not be wide enough?

How about the aquatinics tx5?

or maybe I need an 8 bulb Tek light to cover the width?

or I'm completely lost and need something all together different? (good possibiility)

Thanks for the read. I really am scratching my head hard on this one. :\
 
Last edited:
Here's one for you --

If I could only pick a single type of bulb to light your tank, what bulb would that be? It seems to me that I'd be forced to pick from the following bulbs (of course there could be other, better choices out there too ... these are just the ones I've come across ...)
  • 12K ATI Aquablue
  • 11K Geisemann Aquablue
  • 12K UVL Actinic White (50/50)
  • 14K UVL Aquablue (75/25)
 
this might have been discussed before, i am starting a 120g with 40 breeder tank, the dimension of the tank will be 48x24x24, i will have a dsb w plenum in the main tank, i was wondering, would t5 be a good selection, im thinking about getting ice cap 660 overdriven retro kit w 8 bulbs, or a 2x250mh with t5? which one will be more suitable for me, i am not extremely care about all sps or lps, i just want to have a good growing tank. pros and cons with these two set up?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11922749#post11922749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PCIALF
I just got my light installed I have the 8 bulb TEK on a 120

it is bright!!

IMG_1021websun.jpg


:)

My questions are

1) Grim you said to get the clamp on fans what to they actually do? Are they cooling the bulbs?

2} You said

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue
Pro Color
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

My ATI order has not arrived yet I have the Procolor coming

To get it going I am running (what I could get the soonest)

front
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
Giesemann: PowerChrome Midday
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus

When my ATI order comes I will be swapping the Giesemann: PowerChrome Midday with the Procolor

my question is are the rest of the bulbs similar to the spec's or should I swap the rest out when the order gets here

thanks again I am very happy!

NOW THAT'S A COOL PICTURE!!!!:dance: :dance: :dance:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11922749#post11922749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PCIALF
I just got my light installed I have the 8 bulb TEK on a 120

it is bright!!

IMG_1021websun.jpg


:)

My questions are

1) Grim you said to get the clamp on fans what to they actually do? Are they cooling the bulbs?

2} You said

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue
Pro Color
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

My ATI order has not arrived yet I have the Procolor coming

To get it going I am running (what I could get the soonest)

front
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
Giesemann: PowerChrome Midday
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus

When my ATI order comes I will be swapping the Giesemann: PowerChrome Midday with the Procolor

my question is are the rest of the bulbs similar to the spec's or should I swap the rest out when the order gets here

thanks again I am very happy!

NOW THAT'S A COOL PICTURE!!!!:dance: :dance: :dance:
 
I'm thinking of doing T-5s for a sps mixed reef on my 240. 8' x 2 ' x 2'. How many 4ft 54w bulbs and ballasts would you recommend Grim?
 
Re: Odd tank size

Re: Odd tank size

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11934922#post11934922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Maeda
Hey,
I'm going for a really wide shallow tank and am having a hell of a time picking a fixture.

48x30x16" That's 16" tall. 100% SPS.
I'm comming from a 15,000k iwasaki (which is really white)+ some actinics look and i'd like to keep it.

Could I get away with the 4 bulb ATI power module or will this not be wide enough?

How about the aquatinics tx5?

or maybe I need an 8 bulb Tek light to cover the width?

or I'm completely lost and need something all together different? (good possibiility)

Thanks for the read. I really am scratching my head hard on this one. :\

Maybe do 2 of the 4 lamp Teks so you can space them out a bit/
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11935282#post11935282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by xchrisjb
Here's one for you --

If I could only pick a single type of bulb to light your tank, what bulb would that be? It seems to me that I'd be forced to pick from the following bulbs (of course there could be other, better choices out there too ... these are just the ones I've come across ...)
  • 12K ATI Aquablue
  • 11K Geisemann Aquablue
  • 12K UVL Actinic White (50/50)
  • 14K UVL Aquablue (75/25)



ATI or Geisemann Aquablue
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11936740#post11936740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tinnghe
this might have been discussed before, i am starting a 120g with 40 breeder tank, the dimension of the tank will be 48x24x24, i will have a dsb w plenum in the main tank, i was wondering, would t5 be a good selection, im thinking about getting ice cap 660 overdriven retro kit w 8 bulbs, or a 2x250mh with t5? which one will be more suitable for me, i am not extremely care about all sps or lps, i just want to have a good growing tank. pros and cons with these two set up?

If your tank is going to be a mixed reef and heat isn't an issue go for a halide/T5 fixture. 8 overdriven T5's are going to make some LPS unhappy campers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11941972#post11941972 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sublime250
I'm thinking of doing T-5s for a sps mixed reef on my 240. 8' x 2 ' x 2'. How many 4ft 54w bulbs and ballasts would you recommend Grim?

It would take 16 lamps to do it right. I'd probably use halides in Lumenarcs over that beast.
 
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