The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13843082#post13843082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by roushracer
Grim -

I can only afford to replace 3 lights on the new 36" Nova Extreme Pro for now. Which would be worth keeping and which should I replace? Keep the Current 10k's?

I was thinking of going with this for now (I want something with the 14k-20k look)

Front
Gmann Actinic Plus
Current 10k
Gmann Actinic Plus
Current 10k
Current 460nm Actinic
Gmann Aquablue

Replace all three blues with Actinic Plus. The current blues suck.
 
You could always snag a Workhorse 7 ballast and run one VHO with it.

How about picking up an extra HO ballast for a 5th T5? Any problem running just one bulb off an HO T5 ballast?

What bulb combo would you recommend if I go with a 5 bulb setup?

Thanks again!
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13843942#post13843942 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Get a good 2 lamp retrofit from reefgeek.com with ATI Blue Plus lamps. You wont regret spending the extra 59 bux.

grim

which is a better kit, the Icecap SLR kit for $143 -or- the Sunlight Supply Tek 2 kit for $159

thanks
 
I'm t5 Newbie here,

Question for your t5 Pros - I have a workhorse ballast 7 laying around, and I thought I'd put it to good use by installing some T5s in my canopy to supplement my MH, but I'm a very inept electrician.

What do I need to get started (from a wiring/electrical perspective), and what do you recommend I buy?

I know that I'll need to get a hold off some reflectors, end caps, standoffs, but I'm not sure if they are all created the same. I'm trying to keep this project under $50 (not including the bulbs).

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13836436#post13836436 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
For pure T5's your talking 12 rows of 2 x 36" lamps.

You could string 3 10K halides in PFO Mini pendants using HQI ballasts as your main source for the clams and such but you have to remember your getting about 20"x20" per lamp of light that's going to keep clams going. SPS probably anywhere within a foot any direction from the lamp which shouldn't be an issue, you don't really want Stonies out on the sand anyway.

If you did the halides and 6 rows of overdriven 2 x 39 watt lamps you could run the halides like 4 hours a day and the T5's 10 to 12 hours and be good.

I'd do this

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
10K halides
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

Just the T5's running will be enough light to keep the polyps out and the clams open.

For major Halide with T5 suppliments do 3 400 watt 14Ks in Lumenarcs and 4 rows of 2 x 36" T5's normally driven halides on like 8 hours.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
Halide
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Blue Plus

Grim,

When you stated the the first set up, 6 overdriven 39w bulbs, are you suggesting 3 250W MH with the 6 pairs of T-5 or 3 400 plus the overdriven bulbs? What about 6 - 4 fts and 6 3ft or 2fts?
Another thing I'm struggling with here is that I am looking at using either the lumenarc or the lumen bright reflectors which would have to be positioned further off the surface than the T-5's? meaning the MH would be hitting the backside of the T-5's when they were on. (With a traditional placement of the bulbs in the canopy., there will be no canopy per se in this set up... everything will be hung pendant style or in a sealed and in-line fanned canopy) Any suggestions on how to overcome this while getting the best bang out of the lights?

Obi
 
Grimm,

I have been running a tx5 fixture for just about a year now. I guess its time to change the bulbs. Do i change all 5 at once or do i do it over time? What 5 bulb set up would you recommend? I have been keeping rbta, yellow figi leathers, monti caps, and zoos.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13845153#post13845153 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobertK
How about picking up an extra HO ballast for a 5th T5? Any problem running just one bulb off an HO T5 ballast?

What bulb combo would you recommend if I go with a 5 bulb setup?

Thanks again!

You would have to check as far as a single T5 on a ballast. Not sure which ones will run 1 lamp. VS (Vosslo Schwabbe) I think will. If not one of the workhorses will.

Front
ATI Blue Plus (Single ballast)
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13845457#post13845457 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pelochas
grim

which is a better kit, the Icecap SLR kit for $143 -or- the Sunlight Supply Tek 2 kit for $159

thanks

Ice Cap.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846405#post13846405 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
You would have to check as far as a single T5 on a ballast. Not sure which ones will run 1 lamp. VS (Vosslo Schwabbe) I think will. If not one of the workhorses will.

What would be the downside of using workhorse ballasts for all of the bulbs?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13845565#post13845565 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fernandokng
I'm t5 Newbie here,

Question for your t5 Pros - I have a workhorse ballast 7 laying around, and I thought I'd put it to good use by installing some T5s in my canopy to supplement my MH, but I'm a very inept electrician.

What do I need to get started (from a wiring/electrical perspective), and what do you recommend I buy?

I know that I'll need to get a hold off some reflectors, end caps, standoffs, but I'm not sure if they are all created the same. I'm trying to keep this project under $50 (not including the bulbs).

Thanks in advance for your help.

As long as the lead wires on the ballast are still full length end caps standoffs and reflectors are all you need. You will need some 18 gauge wire for jumpers.

www.fulham.com has wiring diagrams for your particular application that shows how to use jumpers.
 
Workhorses are not as sophisticated of a ballast and do not have any protection from shorts or burnt out lamps. It is a good idea to place a fuse in-line with them. I run Tyco breakers in in-line with them because your GFCI will NOT trip if there is a short between the ballast and the lamp because it is isolated.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=HcGz4gPrtoX5W7J9dJVv0w==

Of course you want to buy one that is slightly higher than the rating of your ballast. Two reasons, One these breakers are only rated for non-continuous use so their continuous usage rating is 80%. So a 1 amp breaker is rated for .80 amps. Oops I forgot reason two. Reason two is that the breakers are derated for ambient temperature and if you put these inside your canopy it will have to be derated.
 
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When you overdrive T5's different length lamps have different intensities so it's better to use lamps that are the same length is possible.

As far as lamp placement look at the halide reflector like a shower head but using light instead of water. The light from the halide will spead in a cone shape. With the T5's a few inches below the bottom of the halide reflectors and a couple inches away from the edge you are not going block any signifigant amount of light. Also keep in mind the T5 retro reflectors clamp on to the lamp its self so they can be angled to direct the light. You can mount the T5's close the the front and rear edges of the tank and turn the reflectors a bit to direct the light back towards the center of the tank if you need to.

You could pretty much make whatever kind of a hanging fizture you want and wrap it with wood so the top and bottom are open. Basically build a rectangle around the frame holding the lamps.
 
When you overdrive T5's different length lamps have different intensities so it's better to use lamps that are the same length is possible.

As far as lamp placement look at the halide reflector like a shower head but using light instead of water. The light from the halide will spead in a cone shape. With the T5's a few inches below the bottom of the halide reflectors and a couple inches away from the edge you are not going block any signifigant amount of light. Also keep in mind the T5 retro reflectors clamp on to the lamp its self so they can be angled to direct the light. You can mount the T5's close the the front and rear edges of the tank and turn the reflectors a bit to direct the light back towards the center of the tank if you need to.

You could pretty much make whatever kind of a hanging fizture you want and wrap it with wood so the top and bottom are open. Basically build a rectangle around the frame holding the lamps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846331#post13846331 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wegotcrabs
Grimm,

I have been running a tx5 fixture for just about a year now. I guess its time to change the bulbs. Do i change all 5 at once or do i do it over time? What 5 bulb set up would you recommend? I have been keeping rbta, yellow figi leathers, monti caps, and zoos.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
GE6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

You could change a lamp every few days just to lessen the impact of the higher intensity your critters will see with new lamps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846453#post13846453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobertK
What would be the downside of using workhorse ballasts for all of the bulbs?

Less output and lamp life.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846569#post13846569 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hpglow
Workhorses are not as sophisticated of a ballast and do not have any protection from shorts or burnt out lamps. It is a good idea to place a fuse in-line with them. I run Tyco breakers in in-line with them because your GFCI will NOT trip if there is a short between the ballast and the lamp because it is isolated.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=HcGz4gPrtoX5W7J9dJVv0w==

Of course you want to buy one that is slightly higher than the rating of your ballast. Two reasons, One these breakers are only rated for non-continuous use so their continuous usage rating is 80%. So a 1 amp breaker is rated for .80 amps. Oops I forgot reason two. Reason two is that the breakers are derated for ambient temperature and if you put these inside your canopy it will have to be derated.

If you have a lamp side issue that doesn't otherwise affect the ballast there is nothing to trip an external braker.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846594#post13846594 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hpglow
Here is a question for you grim. How wide are those Coralvue two lamp retros?

Dunno, e-mail coral vue.
 
Grim, I purchased the 72" Constellation and the bulbs you recommended. I really like the colors. The only problem I have is that my tank is 24" wide, I have been playing the front to back placement, and having some dead areas. The light is flush on the tank, would raising the fixture help or should I be looking for maybe 2 bulb strips for added light.

Thanks,
Steelhant
 
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