The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13617273#post13617273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazzy
Two questions.
I understood that Corals utilize more of the blue area spectrum than what terrestial plants do, please explain more clearly "This is also the peak of the photosynthethis." as it pertains to corals?

Also "6500K bulbs have as much blue as 20K bulbs" I would assume that a bulb puts out a total of "X" light of different spectrums. If a 20K bulb puts out a preponderance of blue and little yellow red, how could a 6,500 bulb put out as much "blue" quantity wise?

I started a new thread and asked a similar question. Very good read regarding lighting wavelengths

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13616735#post13616735
 
Hi Grim,
Awesome thread!!!

I am starting a SPS ,LPS frag tank , it is a standard truvu 125 6 foot tank.
I will be putting a frag rack 6 inches off the bottom for all corals to sit on.

I will be starting out with 4 4 foot T5's ran on a icecap 66 and the slr reflectors, what bulbs would you recommend for this type frag tank?


Thanks for the info and keep up the awesome work!!!!

Chris
 
Grim, if i wanted to get the same performance of my current aquactinics mh/t5, which is the 3x 250 watt MH's and 4x 39w T5's from just T5's whats the formula for determining that? Or is there one? Or can you use your genius and advise?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13620019#post13620019 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Just curious, at what point does one need to think about overdriving bulbs? How does one determine if they are OK using a regular ballast vs ones that would overdrive bulbs?

I found the below info on your red house link:
At least one manufacture lists their T5 lamps as VHO. All this really means is the lamp was designed to better withstand being overdriven on Ice Cap ballasts. Most all brands of lamps have proven to withstand overdriving as long as fans are used to prevent overheating. Overdriving will cause a little more heat, slightly decrease lamp life and make things a whole lot brighter. Generally speaking a tank less than 20” tall shouldn’t need overdriven lamps. There are also NO T5 units that seem to work fine of short tanks.

However, I still have questions. 1st, my tank is a 55g with a height of 20". I plan to use a 6 bulb retro. Live stock being SPS. Your site said that tank less than 20” tall *shouldn’t* need overdriven lamps. Is this statement dependent on type of live stock? If so, should I then overdrive my lamps? (all 6, or just 4, or none)?
 
quote:Originally posted by Lowredranger I first have to say sorry that i am going to ask questions before going through over 200 pages which is awesome. I am looking at one of these two retrofit kits for my 72x24x24 up and coming mixed reef tank. 60" 8x80W SLR T5 Very High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs so 800watts or 60" 8x80W SLR T5 High-Output Retrofit Kit w/ Bulbs so 640watts First which fixture do i need i want to be able to keep everything but i am trying to be as eco friendly to my pocket book on the power end of it. Secondly what should my bulb layout be. Thanks for answering what i am sure is becoming a redundant question.

Jason I assume you are looking at Aquarium specialy for the kits? If not do so and make sure you get the RG reflector rather than the Tek. I'd do the 640 watt version if you arent doing a bunch of clams and SPS.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
Gmann Midday
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
Midday
Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
Blue Plus

I was wondering out of these bulbs that you suggested what lighting schedule i should run them on. I was going to run 2 bulbs for 15hrs a day, 3 bulbs for 8hrs a day and 3 bulbs for 6hrs a day.

Can you tell me which bulbs i should have on which schedule for the health of the corals and looks.

Thanks
Jason
 
YET ANOTHER combination question.

I see a lot of 6 and 8 lamp combinations, but I'll be purchasing a 7 lamp constellation very soon. What combination would you recommend for a 24" deep mixed tank. It is 48" long if it matters. I like things to pop just like everyone else, but would love good growing capacity too.

Thanks in advance
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13619824#post13619824 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chad508
grim i read earlier someone asking about how to tell a good reflector. do you consider the reflectors that come with the icecap retro to be any good? if not is there anything better?

Ice Caps were the best. Aquactinics are slightly better, Reefgeek brand are a little better than those (Aquarium specialties form the sponsors page sells them not reefgeek) and the new style ATI are a little better then those.

I wouldn't lose any sleep trying to decide one over another, they are all good.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13620019#post13620019 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Just curious, at what point does one need to think about overdriving bulbs? How does one determine if they are OK using a regular ballast vs ones that would overdrive bulbs?

When I tell you too

I just kill me:lol:

If you are not raising softies it is never a bad idea because the Ice Cap ballast is going to last 10 years, at least where the others will start sucking wind at 5 years.

If the tank is over 24" tall you should at least think about it no matter what your are raising.

Even with good equipment you would be pushing your luck going beyond 24" tall without overdriving.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13620222#post13620222 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer334
Hi Grim,
Awesome thread!!!

I am starting a SPS ,LPS frag tank , it is a standard truvu 125 6 foot tank.
I will be putting a frag rack 6 inches off the bottom for all corals to sit on.

I will be starting out with 4 4 foot T5's ran on a icecap 66 and the slr reflectors, what bulbs would you recommend for this type frag tank?


Thanks for the info and keep up the awesome work!!!!

Chris

Half ATI Blue Plus and Half UVL Aquasun
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13621443#post13621443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by urville
Grim, if i wanted to get the same performance of my current aquactinics mh/t5, which is the 3x 250 watt MH's and 4x 39w T5's from just T5's whats the formula for determining that? Or is there one? Or can you use your genius and advise?

The Aquactinics constellation T5 is going to be pretty close.

If you could do a retrofit the Ice Cap 6x80 retro using Reefgeek Brand reflectors would likely beat it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13621779#post13621779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I found the below info on your red house link:
At least one manufacture lists their T5 lamps as VHO. All this really means is the lamp was designed to better withstand being overdriven on Ice Cap ballasts. Most all brands of lamps have proven to withstand overdriving as long as fans are used to prevent overheating. Overdriving will cause a little more heat, slightly decrease lamp life and make things a whole lot brighter. Generally speaking a tank less than 20” tall shouldn’t need overdriven lamps. There are also NO T5 units that seem to work fine of short tanks.

However, I still have questions. 1st, my tank is a 55g with a height of 20". I plan to use a 6 bulb retro. Live stock being SPS. Your site said that tank less than 20” tall *shouldn’t* need overdriven lamps. Is this statement dependent on type of live stock? If so, should I then overdrive my lamps? (all 6, or just 4, or none)?

First off you can't fit 6 lamps with reflectors over a 55. Use a Ice Cap retro with 4 lamps or an Aquactinics TX5 fixture. If you only want to raise critters like Clams and SPS overdriving wouldn't be a bad idea but you will be fine without it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13622327#post13622327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lowredranger
I was wondering out of these bulbs that you suggested what lighting schedule i should run them on. I was going to run 2 bulbs for 15hrs a day, 3 bulbs for 8hrs a day and 3 bulbs for 6hrs a day.

Can you tell me which bulbs i should have on which schedule for the health of the corals and looks.

Thanks
Jason

I wouldn't run any lamps 15 hours a day, too long. Maybe 13, your critters need their rest too.

Blue Plus and actinic 13 hours

3 Blue Plus 8~10

22 Midday and Aquablue 4~6
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13624039#post13624039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
First off you can't fit 6 lamps with reflectors over a 55. Use a Ice Cap retro with 4 lamps or an Aquactinics TX5 fixture. If you only want to raise critters like Clams and SPS overdriving wouldn't be a bad idea but you will be fine without it.

Sure, I could. The Aquatinics reflectors are 2" each. I have 11 3/4" ID front to back of my hood. I can get the extra 1/4" by angling the front and rear reflector a bit. I really want the extra bulbs for color control

Kind of like so /-------------\
However the angle wont be so steep
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13624162#post13624162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Sure, I could. The Aquatinics reflectors are 2" each. I have 11 3/4" ID front to back of my hood. I can get the extra 1/4" by angling the front and rear reflector a bit. I really want the extra bulbs for color control

Kind of like so /-------------\
However the angle wont be so steep

Then you will have to cut down the standoffs as well, they are 2 1/2 inches wide. Not sure you can remove that much marerial from them

Another option to consider would be 4 T5's and 1 VHO Actinic.
 
what would you compare 2 of the 48" icecap retros to in mh output. 250's are 400's. i was previously running 2 400 watt 12k reeflux on coralvue ballast. am i close to that. i ask to see if what i am keeping coral wise will be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13624398#post13624398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Then you will have to cut down the standoffs as well, they are 2 1/2 inches wide. Not sure you can remove that much marerial from them

Another option to consider would be 4 T5's and 1 VHO Actinic.

At last, I might know something about t-5's that the Great Grim Reefer might not know: Aquatinics also sells 2" standoffs:smokin:


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12777839#post12777839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aquactinics
We offer 2" wide standoffs. You can purchase them from any of our dealers. If they do not have it listed, just give them a call and you'll be all set.

Thank you,

Tom
Aquactinics
 
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Hi Grim... couple of questions... I am still waiting to order new bulbs until hearing how the new UVL bulbs with the internal reflectors weigh in...do you think they will be worth waiting for...I have 14 bulbs to purchase so I don't want to miss out on great bulbs if they turn out to be much better... at the same time, my bulbs really need replacing so if I don't hear some feedback soon, I may have to order anyway...

what do you think of this combo? What will it look like? nIs there a better order for the bulbs?

Blue plus
Super actinic
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
Aqua Sun (or Pro color... which do you think?)
75/25
Blue Plus

14 bulb Constellation...

Thanks!

Jenni
 
Grim,
What is the advantages or disadvantages of mounting my T5's perpendicular to the tank? Is this a good idea or not? I have a 6' tank that I want to mount 24" T5's all the way across the tank.

Steve
 
hey grim...you seem to be a very popular guy around here...and i have another question for you....

i have a 30G (30"L x 12"W x 18"H) and am running a nova extreme pro with current stock bulbs (3 x 460nm, 3 x 10000K). I haven't had the fixture long and i am going to buy new bulbs for it very soon. I know this is alot of light for a 30G but since the nova doesnt have as great of a reflecting capability, it should hopefully be fine. I have mostly SPS and a few zoos/xenia.

Would you keep the current setup or would you upgrade to better PAR bulbs as you recommend on your site.....3 Blue Plus, 1 super actinic, Pro Color and UVL 75/25?? I hope that wouldn't be too much light for the zoos!

Thanks a million!
 
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