The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770099#post14770099 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
What you have isn't bad except I would take out an aquablue and replace it with either a KZ Fiji Purple or UVL Actinic White. That will bring in pink and purple colors better. Yellow too.

In what order?

Also my LFS only has ATI so will Pro Color be just as good then KZ Fiji Purple?

thx
 
Grim,
Thanks for this thread.
My tank new Oceanic 120g standard 48x24x24 tank will be setup within the next few days. Tank will be mixed with about 1/3-1/2 SPS. Rest being stuff like frogspawn, elegance, gsp, acans and a few other LPS.

Few questions.
A. The tank has a brace of glass across the middle top of the tank that is about 1' long. Will this interfere with any of the light? I realize now that I'll have to continually wipe it clean from salt creep.

B. I'll be using a canopy with the tank. The ATI pm gets such great reviews here. Does it make sense to spend the extra $ and go with the ATI 8x54 instead of a retro kit?

C. What would the ideal bulb setup be including mfgs please.

One minor suggestion (if I may be so bold), maybe someone could create a matrix (wish I could help but don't know how) of common tank sizes where you could post your recommendations as part of a FAQ? (maybe it's a dumb idea but figured I'd post it anyway).

Thank you.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770495#post14770495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PermaNoob
Grim,
Thanks for this thread.
My tank new Oceanic 120g standard 48x24x24 tank will be setup within the next few days. Tank will be mixed with about 1/3-1/2 SPS. Rest being stuff like frogspawn, elegance, gsp, acans and a few other LPS.

Few questions.
A. The tank has a brace of glass across the middle top of the tank that is about 1' long. Will this interfere with any of the light? I realize now that I'll have to continually wipe it clean from salt creep.

B. I'll be using a canopy with the tank. The ATI pm gets such great reviews here. Does it make sense to spend the extra $ and go with the ATI 8x54 instead of a retro kit?

C. What would the ideal bulb setup be including mfgs please.

One minor suggestion (if I may be so bold), maybe someone could create a matrix (wish I could help but don't know how) of common tank sizes where you could post your recommendations as part of a FAQ? (maybe it's a dumb idea but figured I'd post it anyway).

Thank you.

Go to this site and it will give you a lot of info about T5.

http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com/

That is a good place to start.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770278#post14770278 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BaNDiTo_RoX
In what order?

Also my LFS only has ATI so will Pro Color be just as good then KZ Fiji Purple?

thx

The Pro Color will add red as well. It is lower PAR than the KZ Fiji Purple.

Actinic Plus
Pro Color
Aquablue
Actinic Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14771683#post14771683 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by solareclisped
rtparty what light do you plan on running on your 90 gallon you are doing.

The 90 got sold. No job and no money for it. I was gonna run a retro kit for it however. 6 bulb with reefgeek reflectors.

If I had to do it again I would get the ATI Sunpower
 
no red's ?

no red's ?

I have a 75 with 2 aquablue + and 2 actinic + with individual reflectors on a 660 ballast. I'm happy with the overall color except the red's do not show up at all. I have a red millie frag that was very red in the tank it came out of. That tank had 20K metal halide lighting.
I tried a 6000 midday sun bulb that I had laying around but the red is no better and the bulb gives off too much of a yellow look.
Is a fiji purple the way to go?
Where can I find a spectrum graph for the fiji?

thanks
 
Re: no red's ?

Re: no red's ?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14771794#post14771794 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr Reefer 1690
I have a 75 with 2 aquablue + and 2 actinic + with individual reflectors on a 660 ballast. I'm happy with the overall color except the red's do not show up at all. I have a red millie frag that was very red in the tank it came out of. That tank had 20K metal halide lighting.
I tried a 6000 midday sun bulb that I had laying around but the red is no better and the bulb gives off too much of a yellow look.
Is a fiji purple the way to go?
Where can I find a spectrum graph for the fiji?

thanks

I don't think there is a spectral graph for the fiji purple officially but people have tried. Try this thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1496092

I would do the fiji
 
grim,

thanks for the info, I will get three icecap 660 then. before I wire them I will make sure the harness is long enough.
 
Thanks for the suggestion on the fans! I will pick up one of those Azoo's and see how I can get it on the endcaps and tips of the bulbs. I appreciate the help! The color combination of the bulbs is going to be awesome.

-zach
 
Going straight to the point
I have an 8x54 Liteco with ATI bulbs(of course Grim's suggestion) over my 80 gallons SPS tank
What is the "correct" distance from the water so that i don't have any losses in performance ?????
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14772225#post14772225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by geomanolo
Going straight to the point
I have an 8x54 Liteco with ATI bulbs(of course Grim's suggestion) over my 80 gallons SPS tank
What is the "correct" distance from the water so that i don't have any losses in performance ?????


Does it have a splash shield? If so then as close as you want.

No splash shield then at least 4" off the water.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14772401#post14772401 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
Does it have a splash shield? If so then as close as you want.

No splash shield then at least 4" off the water.

No splash guard But extremely powerful reflectors
I have it now at 8" ... from water, do you think it is too High?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14764470#post14764470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Taqpol
I was just wondering, what is wrong with the Tek fixture? I know it has no integrated cooling, but since I plan on putting it inside a canopy I could add my own fan cooling, correct?

Yes, point a few fans directed to the back side of the unit on an angle.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14772471#post14772471 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by geomanolo
No splash guard But extremely powerful reflectors
I have it now at 8" ... from water, do you think it is too High?


Do whatever your corals tell you. I would personally move it to 5 or 6 inches but I would do it very slowly so the corals acclimate to the new light. Maybe move it 1/2" a week.

If your corals are all happy and colorful then I would just leave it. If it ain't broke...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770153#post14770153 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CRASHJT
You dont think it will be to much for the softies? I guess what that other guy said kind of confused me what is the difference between the sunpower and the power module I thought more cooling was a good thing :confused:

Well, yeah with better cooling comes better power. I am not sure exactly how much better a PM does than the Sunpower. I would be shocked if the difference was over 5 or 10%.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770162#post14770162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
thanks for the tip... I guess I could just keep the icecap temp probes mounted outside the canopy..

in terms of the side fans I have two of these Noctua 120mm 48cfm fans and they put out a very wide flow pattern compared to the icecaps, but it doesn't push the air quite as far....
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5379/fan-268/Noctua_NF-S12-1200_120mm_Fan_48_CFM.html

so maybe I should instead go with several smaller fans???

You could also reverse the IC's so they pull air out of the canopy.

You need to make sure the fans on the end will hit all the lamps. With them that close to the lamps I am not sure the air will have a chance to spread all that much. Experiment but if you don't have at least 4 inches between the fans and lamps I don't see how you will get enough spread to cover all those lamps.

If you really want to get slick you could make PVC ducts to cool the lamps. Mount a fan on the end of a 3" pvc pipe with the end capped. Tap in some1/2" T's run between the endcaps, one tap would cool 2 lamps. Not sure if you have room to pull that off but it would be the ultimate cooling.

As far as the Ice Cap fans go I think I would reverse them and mount them up high so they pull out the hot air. In theory cool air will be drawn in the lower parts of the slots you cut.
 
Grim Reefer and rtparty.

Thank You,

Another question if you don't mind, I read in one of the post that the Tek5 Ballast are not that great, Is there a better ballast that can be swap out?

I have Tek5 24" 4 Bulb and a 36" 6 Bulb.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14770278#post14770278 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BaNDiTo_RoX
In what order?

Also my LFS only has ATI so will Pro Color be just as good then KZ Fiji Purple?

thx

The ATI should be fine. With the pro color you will have a purplish look to the light, not gross or anything but some like it and some don't

front
Blue Plus
Pro Color or actinic
Aquablue
Blue Plus

If you do the pro color you could swap it's position with the Aquablue to decrease the amount of purple you see.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14773371#post14773371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The ATI should be fine. With the pro color you will have a purplish look to the light, not gross or anything but some like it and some don't

front
Blue Plus
Pro Color or actinic
Aquablue
Blue Plus

If you do the pro color you could swap it's position with the Aquablue to decrease the amount of purple you see.

I only purchase the Pro Color since the other bulb are only 2-3 month old.

Aqua Blue+
Actinic+
Actinic+
Aqua Blue+

So what combo you think?
 
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