The T5 Q&a Thread

[goofball310]

I just purchased a 20" Nova Extreme Pro and was wondering if there are any other manufacturers that offer a 20" lamp. I feel kinda cheated now cause all I can find are Current 10k & 460nm.

 

[bluetang_2000]

what is the average life span for overdriven T5 bulbs on icecap 660 or 430 assuming that active/adequate cooling is provided? Thanks

 

[ataller]

Absolutely amazing info Grim. I honestly appreciate not only the answer but the explanation of what is going on.

I will attach my temp sensors to the metal ends of the bulbs and keep them at 115 exactly! Ill make sure there is no air being blown at the centers of the bulbs.

Next on my christmas list is one of the new apogee par meters so I can actually figure out what is going on without bugging you !

Thanks agian

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15008398#post15008398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
What happens is the electrons are forced through the gas in the lamp. The electrons colliding with mercury particles creates UV light which excites the phosphors blah blah blah

Once the electrodes warm up the resistance drops and more electrons are passed through the lamp. Also the mercury particales become more excited as the gas warms which also leads to more light being created. When the lamp gets too hot the gas pressure increases and that increases the internal resistance of the lamp. More resistance = fewer electrons and less light. If the gas is over cooled it is just like when the lamp is first turned on, the mercury becomes less excited (not moving as much within the gas mixture) so you lose light.

The heat is generated at the lamp ends. Some lamps have what is called a cold shoe (Giesemann lamps have these) which is placed on the label end of the lamp. Other's don't so you dont have to worry about which end is cooled but it is a good practice to assume all lamps have a dedicated cold spot because you never know when a manufacturer might change the product.

The cold spot temp is what will determine the internal lamp pressure. By keeping that area at or below 115 degrees or so the gases are hot enough to get the mercury boogieing but not so hot that the pressure rises.

If you cool the center of the lamp you are so far from the heat source it takes very little to get the gas in that area below its optimum temp.

You want the ambient air temp to be around 95 or the metal endcap on the lamp about 115

AMEN!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15010528#post15010528 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmsalt1
Providing clearance above the fixture shouldn't be a problem. I was not aware of the fact that the Constellation draws air from the sides as mine would be a bit tight. I could have vents cut in the side of the canopy the length of the fixture supplemented by the fans in the back as you suggested.

BTW, I'm sure you're aware of the likely introduction of a newer version of the Constellation later in the year (maybe the Fall) that would be a T5 & LED combination. I ran across this in another thread and the post was made by the owner of Aquactinics about the likely release of this new fixture they are working toward. I just might need to put that last set of PC bulbs I bought into action so I can get through to the release of this new product.

Thanks Grim.

If you cut side vents I would do a vent fan in the top instead of blowing air in

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15010736#post15010736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by goofball310
I just purchased a 20" Nova Extreme Pro and was wondering if there are any other manufacturers that offer a 20" lamp. I feel kinda cheated now cause all I can find are Current 10k & 460nm.

For now you are pretty much hosed.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15010925#post15010925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bluetang_2000
what is the average life span for overdriven T5 bulbs on icecap 660 or 430 assuming that active/adequate cooling is provided? Thanks

I think 10 to 14 months depending on how light demanding your particular reef is. Your Mileage may vary .

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15011720#post15011720 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ataller
Absolutely amazing info Grim. I honestly appreciate not only the answer but the explanation of what is going on.

I will attach my temp sensors to the metal ends of the bulbs and keep them at 115 exactly! Ill make sure there is no air being blown at the centers of the bulbs.

Next on my christmas list is one of the new apogee par meters so I can actually figure out what is going on without bugging you !

Thanks agian

PAR meter is a great tool but a cheap LUX meter can be used to tweak your cooling. You just shouldn't depend on it to make comparisons between lamps because it measures to narrow a range of light.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

OK Kiddies, I have to make an emergency run to Phoenix Saturday so I will be out of the office from Friday night Until Probably Wednesday. Dunno if I will have a lap top with me or not so if you want me specifically to answer a question get it in early tomorrow (Friday) or hold it until then. Hey, whats more important, T5's or rescuing some guns from the clutches of someone who doesn't love them any more

 

[goofball310]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15012397#post15012397 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Hey, whats more important, T5's or rescuing some guns from the clutches of someone who doesn't love them any more

Depends on what guns. I'd definitely go and rescue a H&K SP89.

 

[Tank2379]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15010044#post15010044 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tank2379
Hi, Grim

I want to get some good bulb combination's for my Nova Extreme Pro this is the 6 x 54W each- 324watts total. My tank will be mostly mixed with LPS, SPS some Softies and Polyps. I would like to know what a Good bulb mixture would be good for coloration and good growth. Right now I have an idea of which to go with but I am kind of wondering if it's a good fit for my type of reef. This is what I was thinking of going with.

2 UV 454 Bulbs
2 ATI Blue + Bulbs
1 UV 75.25 Bulb
1 Either a 10K or 20K White bulb

Let me know if this combo would be OK to use or if anyone else has a decent combination that would great let me know. Thanks for your Suggestions in advance.

Thanks

Any Advance would be appreciated...
Thanks again....

 

[iFisch]

GR, is 80w of HOT5 good enough for SPS and possibly a very small clam or two in a 14 gal BioCube? The main tank part is about 12 gallons.

From the top of my sandbed to the top of the tank is 10".

Was thinking of 2x 18" 40w T5HO fixtures, giving me 80 total watts of T5HO.

 

[ataller]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15011828#post15011828 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
PAR meter is a great tool but a cheap LUX meter can be used to tweak your cooling. You just shouldn't depend on it to make comparisons between lamps because it measures to narrow a range of light.

Fantastic idea, it seems I can get these relatively cheap on ebay.

Would a 100,000 max unit fit my needs? 50,000 ? 200,000?

Once I get some fans hooked up I'll make sure I post maybe it will be on use to someone !

Adam

 

[murraycamp]

Hi Grim. I just got an Outer Orbit running an EVC 20 K 250w mh plus the following as supplements:

(front)

Aquablue Special
Fiji Purple
mh
Actinic+
Blue+

I tried this per your previous recommendation for this same system (except for the fiji purple), but it really washed out the blues. Nice pop all around, but any suggestions to make it more blue? I was thinking swapping the actinic+ for another blue +, as it seems to me that he actinic doesn't add that much anyway - but it's hard to tell.

Thanks!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15012894#post15012894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tank2379
Any Advance would be appreciated...
Thanks again....

The 454 lamps and Blue Plus are essentially the same color so.......

What you have listed is good except I would go with the UVL Actinic White instead of the 75/25, better PAR. I would use a GE 6500K or Giesemann Midday lamp as the 10K.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15012989#post15012989 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iFisch
GR, is 80w of HOT5 good enough for SPS and possibly a very small clam or two in a 14 gal BioCube? The main tank part is about 12 gallons.

From the top of my sandbed to the top of the tank is 10".

Was thinking of 2x 18" 40w T5HO fixtures, giving me 80 total watts of T5HO.

I can't say for absolute sure because I haven't tested PAR on the 18" rigs but I think it will be OK. If you notice poor growth you might have to add a second fixture.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15013434#post15013434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ataller
Fantastic idea, it seems I can get these relatively cheap on ebay.

Would a 100,000 max unit fit my needs? 50,000 ? 200,000?

Once I get some fans hooked up I'll make sure I post maybe it will be on use to someone !

Adam

You can make it work by placing the meter further away from the lights if you max it. Better output at 20" away is just as noticeable as it would be 10" away.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15014219#post15014219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murraycamp
Hi Grim. I just got an Outer Orbit running an EVC 20 K 250w mh plus the following as supplements:

(front)

Aquablue Special
Fiji Purple
mh
Actinic+
Blue+

I tried this per your previous recommendation for this same system (except for the fiji purple), but it really washed out the blues. Nice pop all around, but any suggestions to make it more blue? I was thinking swapping the actinic+ for another blue +, as it seems to me that he actinic doesn't add that much anyway - but it's hard to tell.

Thanks!

Pull the Aquablue for another blue plus or swap the position of it with the blue or actinic plus.

 

[murraycamp]

Thanks Grim and have a safe trip.

 

[iFisch]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15014411#post15014411 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I can't say for absolute sure because I haven't tested PAR on the 18" rigs but I think it will be OK. If you notice poor growth you might have to add a second fixture.

Thanks GR. I would it assume it's close to the 24w bulbs standard on 24" fixtures.

I have space to fit one more if necessary.



But it seems many happy SPS keepers are running 96w total T5HO. But they also have close to double the size of the tank. So I'm thinking I'll be safe.

 

[fishyheaven]

hello guys,

so i went with the aquactinics 72 instead of the ati due to the waiting time but so far so good. hopefully i can still maintain solid coral growth.

thanks to rt and grim i went with the following bulbs:
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus

any idea on how i should set up my lighting schedule? i am currently using a profilux to control the times so any time order will work.


the constellation have bulbs 1,4,7 on one plug, 3,5 on another and 2,6 on the last plug.

any suggestions will be great!

Thanks guys!!