cgoodman381
New member
Sounds good. I'm a bit confused on the aquablue though. Which bulb do you mean?
54W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent
54W 11000K Aquablue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
54W 75/25 14000K AquaBlue T5 HO Fluorescent
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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Sounds good. I'm a bit confused on the aquablue though. Which bulb do you mean?
54W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent
54W 11000K Aquablue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
54W 75/25 14000K AquaBlue T5 HO Fluorescent
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
ATI Brand is best, Followed by the Gieseman. The UVL 75/25 "Aquablue" Is a completely different animal.
Raoul5Duke
Active member
I have 2 four bulb T5 fixtures and the following bulbs available 3 Geisemann Actinic +, 1 Geisemann Midday 6000k, 2 Current 10K and 2 Current 460 NM. I was wondering what you thought would be the best bulb combination using what I have available and if you would strongly suggest I buy different bulbs?? One fixture will be over a frag tank where I am more interested in growth and the other over my display where I like a bluish tint. Thanks for your help.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Use 2 Actinic Plus, Midday and a current 460 over the display and the rest over the frag tank. The current 460 lamps look nice but are weak PAR wise compared to the Actinic Plus which is about the same color, I would replace the 460's withing 6 months or so. The 10K's are decent enough but when its time to relamp the frag tank I would use 1 UVL Aquasun and 3 ATI Blue Plus which have a ton of PAR and look cool. They are a little better than the Actinic Plus
Grim,
I was considering using a UVL 75/25 instead of a UVL actinic white in my 4 light system (including 2 blue+ and an aquablue special). In your lighting tests you say "75/25 "Aquablue" 254 vs 300 for an Aquasun in a later test." I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. I basically want to know if the 75/25 bulb has much less par than the actinic white.
I was considering using a UVL 75/25 instead of a UVL actinic white in my 4 light system (including 2 blue+ and an aquablue special). In your lighting tests you say "75/25 "Aquablue" 254 vs 300 for an Aquasun in a later test." I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. I basically want to know if the 75/25 bulb has much less par than the actinic white.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
It was less but not a huge amount less. In a 4 lamp setup the 75/25 would probably be a better choice.
Far from expert little ditty on T5 lighting in our aquariums:
After having T5 for almost a year, I do love them and would only change to LEDs ...never go back to MH. However, the only thing I don’t like is the washed out/hazy look that some people (including me) complain of. This is where MH really stands out with its crisp/clear look. But we all know of the downside of MH, that why we went with T5 to begin with...right? After trying a small fortune in bulbs it seems to me that the mid-range T5's are not very good at color rendering. It’s not the popular ATI aquablues alone, it’s the other brands as well. Just browse the photos here of tanks with mainly 12K-14K bulbs and you can see (even in the photos) what I am trying to describe…..the blue haze. So far the only thing I have found that improves this problem is using Blue+ and their equivalent with the GE6500 or equivalent in a ratio that gets you the color temp you are looking for. Two blues and one 6500 looks 14-15 K’ish to me. Throw in a red bulb of your choice (Fiji,Procolor,UVL75/25) if you want that and .....there ya go.
Money is so hard to come by now, but I think it’s worth the 20 bucks to get one GE and try it out. There are dozens of SPS keepers here that will give you a few bucks for it if you find it’s not for you.
This is what’s working for me and might be something that could help with your tank.
Mark
p.s. The red bulbs are less important when using a 6500 lamp as they do help SOME with pulling out the reds/purples. It really helps with greens/yellows...the lamp alone has a somewhat yellowish look as you would expect with anything in the lower Kelvin ranges
After having T5 for almost a year, I do love them and would only change to LEDs ...never go back to MH. However, the only thing I don’t like is the washed out/hazy look that some people (including me) complain of. This is where MH really stands out with its crisp/clear look. But we all know of the downside of MH, that why we went with T5 to begin with...right? After trying a small fortune in bulbs it seems to me that the mid-range T5's are not very good at color rendering. It’s not the popular ATI aquablues alone, it’s the other brands as well. Just browse the photos here of tanks with mainly 12K-14K bulbs and you can see (even in the photos) what I am trying to describe…..the blue haze. So far the only thing I have found that improves this problem is using Blue+ and their equivalent with the GE6500 or equivalent in a ratio that gets you the color temp you are looking for. Two blues and one 6500 looks 14-15 K’ish to me. Throw in a red bulb of your choice (Fiji,Procolor,UVL75/25) if you want that and .....there ya go.
Money is so hard to come by now, but I think it’s worth the 20 bucks to get one GE and try it out. There are dozens of SPS keepers here that will give you a few bucks for it if you find it’s not for you.
This is what’s working for me and might be something that could help with your tank.
Mark
p.s. The red bulbs are less important when using a 6500 lamp as they do help SOME with pulling out the reds/purples. It really helps with greens/yellows...the lamp alone has a somewhat yellowish look as you would expect with anything in the lower Kelvin ranges
Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
Hey Grim,
Setting up a new 75 Gal SPS tank in the Near Future, this will be my first go at a T-5 Tank.
Can I keep SPS in a 75 with a Ice Cap 4 Bulb T-5 Retro? Or do I have to run 6? I like a Blue look ( Running Radiums now).
Steven Pro in the Ice Cap Forum suggests that using a Ice Cap retro system, only 4 Bulbs are required to achive the same results as 6 that are not Overdriven.
Opinions? Thoughts?
TIA!!!!!
-Wolfgang
Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
Hey Grim,
Setting up a new 75 Gal SPS tank in the Near Future, this will be my first go at a T-5 Tank.
Can I keep SPS in a 75 with a Ice Cap 4 Bulb T-5 Retro? Or do I have to run 6? I like a Blue look ( Running Radiums now).
Steven Pro in the Ice Cap Forum suggests that using a Ice Cap retro system, only 4 Bulbs are required to achive the same results as 6 that are not Overdriven.
Opinions? Thoughts?
TIA!!!!!
-Wolfgang
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
What I find is running like 4 blues with one GE and one red lamp looks better than going with 2 GE's. Of course most of that is personal opinion but I think it gives a look few people would object to. I also like the look of 4 blues and two reds but that does have a purple tone not everyone would like so I usually don't reco it.
Sounds like you have done your season in hell playing with lamps.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Re: Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
Re: Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
It is really hard to get the same output from retros as the high end fixtures but if you are running a canopy the retro's are really the way to go. The fixture's precise cooling if lost when mounted in a canopy.
The 4 lamp Ice Cap unit will work fine for a 75. You could add a cheap 2 lamp retro to it if you want duck/dawn but as far as keeping your corals happy I wouldn't worry about it. I would run 3 Blue lamps and one "red". If you are going to try the Ice Cap lamps I would use their version of the Actinic White, dont remember what they are calling it but it's the 50/50 lamp. The blues would be their version of the 454. It isn't going to look as blue as you might think because when overdriven the blue lamps are so bright they just dont give you as blue a look.
Re: Grim: 75gal T-5 Questions
It is really hard to get the same output from retros as the high end fixtures but if you are running a canopy the retro's are really the way to go. The fixture's precise cooling if lost when mounted in a canopy.
The 4 lamp Ice Cap unit will work fine for a 75. You could add a cheap 2 lamp retro to it if you want duck/dawn but as far as keeping your corals happy I wouldn't worry about it. I would run 3 Blue lamps and one "red". If you are going to try the Ice Cap lamps I would use their version of the Actinic White, dont remember what they are calling it but it's the 50/50 lamp. The blues would be their version of the 454. It isn't going to look as blue as you might think because when overdriven the blue lamps are so bright they just dont give you as blue a look.
I have a question about bulb height over the water. How high can 8x54w on Icecap 660s be hung over a 48"x24"x20" tank? It going to be in a floating canopy built into the wall so I will not be able to move it once it's in place and I have to choose the the height correctly from the start.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
4" is best for getting max performance but if you need to go higher I think 8" is more than safe on your setup. Just keep it as low as you can.
Thanks Grim!
I was going to go with ATI brand Bulbs, But doesn't really matter as long as it works
As far as Cooling goes, I would add a few fans and a dIgital Themometer to the hood, with a Target temp of 85?
Steve Pro's bulb Recomendation for a 4 bulb using URI bulbs is:
High light, shallow water reef display
1 â€"œ Reef Crest 10,000 K
1 â€"œ Twilight 460 nm
1 â€"œ Midwater 12,000 K
1 â€"œ Actinic 420 nm
Methinks, that would be two White for me.
Thanks again!
-Wolfgang
I was going to go with ATI brand Bulbs, But doesn't really matter as long as it works
As far as Cooling goes, I would add a few fans and a dIgital Themometer to the hood, with a Target temp of 85?
Steve Pro's bulb Recomendation for a 4 bulb using URI bulbs is:
High light, shallow water reef display
1 â€"œ Reef Crest 10,000 K
1 â€"œ Twilight 460 nm
1 â€"œ Midwater 12,000 K
1 â€"œ Actinic 420 nm
Methinks, that would be two White for me.
Thanks again!
-Wolfgang
Timing and bulb grouping
Timing and bulb grouping
Hi Grim,
You've been remarkably helpful in the bulb selection for my 12 x 54W configuration over a 36" deep x 25.5" tall tank.
Here is the final selection:
FRONT
Row 1 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 2 - UVL 75-25
Row 3 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 4 - GE 6500K
Row 5 - KZ Fiji Purple
Row 6 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 7 - GE 6500K
Row 8 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 9 - UVL Actinic White
Row 10 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 11 - UVL 75-25
Row 12 - ATI Blue Plus
BACK
I have the capability for (4) timing slections on my lighting controller.
I will alternate moonlight LEDs with a dawn / dusk bulb selection. When the dawn/dusk turn on, the moonlights will turn off. Then on separate timers, I can select a mid-morning / late afternoon group. Finally, I can select the peak lighting group for midday period which presumably would include all twelve bulbs.
With those options in mind, which Rows of bulbs would you consign to each group:
1. Dawn/Dusk -
2. Mid morning / late afternoon -
3. High noon (peak) - all 12 rows lighted.
Since I will have a lot of SPS in the upper half of the tank, I was thinking about a 10 hour light cycle, in this approximate sequence:
1 hour dawn/dusk
2 hours mid morning
4 hours high noon
2 hours late afternoon
1 hour dawn dusk
Will that be sufficient?
Thanks again.
LL
Timing and bulb grouping
Hi Grim,
You've been remarkably helpful in the bulb selection for my 12 x 54W configuration over a 36" deep x 25.5" tall tank.
Here is the final selection:
FRONT
Row 1 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 2 - UVL 75-25
Row 3 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 4 - GE 6500K
Row 5 - KZ Fiji Purple
Row 6 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 7 - GE 6500K
Row 8 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 9 - UVL Actinic White
Row 10 - ATI Blue Plus
Row 11 - UVL 75-25
Row 12 - ATI Blue Plus
BACK
I have the capability for (4) timing slections on my lighting controller.
I will alternate moonlight LEDs with a dawn / dusk bulb selection. When the dawn/dusk turn on, the moonlights will turn off. Then on separate timers, I can select a mid-morning / late afternoon group. Finally, I can select the peak lighting group for midday period which presumably would include all twelve bulbs.
With those options in mind, which Rows of bulbs would you consign to each group:
1. Dawn/Dusk -
2. Mid morning / late afternoon -
3. High noon (peak) - all 12 rows lighted.
Since I will have a lot of SPS in the upper half of the tank, I was thinking about a 10 hour light cycle, in this approximate sequence:
1 hour dawn/dusk
2 hours mid morning
4 hours high noon
2 hours late afternoon
1 hour dawn dusk
Will that be sufficient?
Thanks again.
LL
Grim need your advice about my new T5's. I just connected my new FM 10 bulb Starfire to my tank. I had 2 400w reeflux 12k's and 2 110w VHO's before. They were on from 5pm - 10pm MH and 4pm - 11pm VHO. Both the MH and VHO bulbs were 8 months old. I have the new T5 fixture 9 inches from the top of the water and having them go on from 3pm - 7pm for now. I plan on every week adding a hour until the go on from 3pm - 10pm. Is this good for acclimating my tank to the new fixture/bulbs or lower the hours ?
TIA
TIA
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15108161#post15108161 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wolfgang
Thanks Grim!
I was going to go with ATI brand Bulbs, But doesn't really matter as long as it works
As far as Cooling goes, I would add a few fans and a dIgital Themometer to the hood, with a Target temp of 85?
Steve Pro's bulb Recomendation for a 4 bulb using URI bulbs is:
High light, shallow water reef display
1 â€"œ Reef Crest 10,000 K
1 â€"œ Twilight 460 nm
1 â€"œ Midwater 12,000 K
1 â€"œ Actinic 420 nm
Methinks, that would be two White for me.
Thanks again!
-Wolfgang
95 if you have the temp sensor next to a lamp.
I really don't see a need for a Actinic T5 if you are running blues and don't have a dusk/dawn pair. The only time you really see the effect of the actinic is during Dusk/dawn.
As far as lamps I would use 2 Twilights and the other 2 lamps Steve recoed without seeing them. I am supposed to have lamps in my hot little hands tomorrow. Honestly shooting from the hip I would go 3 Twilight and one reefcrest. I might have a different opinion in a few days but I am sure that is a safe guess.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Re: Timing and bulb grouping
Re: Timing and bulb grouping
Id try just blue plus for dusk/dawn, then add in more blue plus and the 75/25 for the next stage then finish up with all on.
Re: Timing and bulb grouping
Id try just blue plus for dusk/dawn, then add in more blue plus and the 75/25 for the next stage then finish up with all on.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Don't know how well the new FM stuff performs but even if it matched a Powermodule having it 9 inches above I would say all on at least 4 hours. Dusk/dawn 10 hours or so. Just watch your critters. You should be able to tell if it's too much.
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