The T5 Q&a Thread

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Picasso. That just lets you know you're still alive. Start calling yourself Crank.

Grim. Hey bro, check these out and let me know your thoughts please. Ebay Item number: 350195433653. Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937487#post14937487 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by picassotrigger1
I've contacted hellolights a while back since it first happened. They told me since this was a black friday sale fixture, that they really couldn't do anything and that they never heard of that before. They told me to check the ballast. That's about it.

And it's when I touch the fixture itself without touching anything else. Don't know if this helps or not but I got a volt meter (screwdriver type) and touched the fixture at various places and got readings. So....? I'm gonna try to get a friend to check the outlets and such

You don't by chance still have that e-mail do you?

That is the type of response that will lead to an active campaign by myself and I am sure a lot of others to boycott that vendor. Just because it was a sale item doesn't void the warranty and their responsibility to make sure the product they market is safe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937507#post14937507 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmsalt1
Grim,

What do these numbers represent? What about the Giesemann retrofit package? I couldn't find the specs., but their reflectors look a bit wider than 2".

I have never use the Giesemann stuff.

Those numbers are the PAR being produced by the same lamp with a different reflector on it.

The readings were taken a set distance from the lamp with the sensor directly under the lamp, offset 3, 6 and 9 inches away from the lamp (to the side of it) and then moved to get the peak output. I dont bother taking readings along the length other than to make sure there isn't a hot or cold spot along the length.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937547#post14937547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ddinox64
Picasso. That just lets you know you're still alive. Start calling yourself Crank.

Grim. Hey bro, check these out and let me know your thoughts please. Ebay Item number: 350195433653. Thanks

I don't use e-bay and generally don't recommend buying anything they sell. Is there a brand name and description associated with that number?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14934734#post14934734 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you are just supplementing the halides 4 80 watt 60" T5's would be fine. Use the Reefgeek brand reflectors (only 2.5 inches wide). I would use 3 ATI Blue Plus and 1 KZ Fiji Purple lamp.

thanks for the fast reply. which ballast would you recommend to drive the 4 80w bulbs? also, i can't seem to find the 2.5" reflectors on reefgeeks website, only 3" ones.

thanks again.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937582#post14937582 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
You don't by chance still have that e-mail do you?

That is the type of response that will lead to an active campaign by myself and I am sure a lot of others to boycott that vendor. Just because it was a sale item doesn't void the warranty and their responsibility to make sure the product they market is safe.

Grim, it was a phone call. But was told 'since you got such a great deal on the fixture already, there's nothing we can do'

I sent an email and hope it gets resolved
 
Hi All,

I've got all sorts of parts coming to me and getting ready to put it all together, it will be an 8 bulb retrofit with 1 ballast controlling 4 bulbs as simple on/off switching and 2 dimmable ballasts controlling 2 bulbs each.

So I'm looking for suggestions as to how to wire it up in terms of which ballast to control which position and which bulbs to place where. For the diagram below: DB1=dimmable ballast 1; DB2=Dimmable Ballast 2; NB = Normal Ballast

Switching order would be DB1 ramps up, DB2 Ramps up NB turns on

My original thought was
FRONT
NB Giesemann Aquablue Plus
DB1 Giesemann Pure Actinic
NB Giesemann Midday
DB2 KZ Fiji Purple
DB1 Giesemann Actinic Plus
NB Giesemann Aqua Blue Plus
DB2 KZ Fiji Purple
NB Giesemann Midday

Any thoughts on how to improve bulb selection or placement?

Thanks
 
I am setting up my 155 gallon bow-front tank and was going to go with MH but wanted to check out some other options.

want to know what i should go with a fixture or go with retros. If a fixture what brand.How many bulbs should i go with to get good coverage of my tank?

Is the bow part of me tank going to be had to cover but i dont think i will have to worry about it because i wont be placeing anything there.

Tank will be mainly SPS up at the top a few lps down at the bottom and maybe a clam or 2
 
hey Im setting up a 50 gallon display/frag tank. I have a 660 ballest and a work horse laying around. I like zoas mostly but also like a few simple sps and lps. Color is very important to me but Id also like to maximize growth also. I need new reflectors for this tank. also Im not sure I could use the workhorse or need to use it. how would you set up the lighting for the tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937618#post14937618 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by launchnukes
thanks for the fast reply. which ballast would you recommend to drive the 4 80w bulbs? also, i can't seem to find the 2.5" reflectors on reefgeeks website, only 3" ones.

thanks again.

I'd use 2 Icve Cap 660's so if you decide you want more T5's later on you can add a couple more. Each 660 can run up to 3 of the 80 watt lamps. You have to call for the reefgeek reflector, they aren't on the website yet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937664#post14937664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by picassotrigger1
Grim, it was a phone call. But was told 'since you got such a great deal on the fixture already, there's nothing we can do'

I sent an email and hope it gets resolved

Make sure you do those checks I mentioned.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14937763#post14937763 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Slick Fork
Hi All,

I've got all sorts of parts coming to me and getting ready to put it all together, it will be an 8 bulb retrofit with 1 ballast controlling 4 bulbs as simple on/off switching and 2 dimmable ballasts controlling 2 bulbs each.

So I'm looking for suggestions as to how to wire it up in terms of which ballast to control which position and which bulbs to place where. For the diagram below: DB1=dimmable ballast 1; DB2=Dimmable Ballast 2; NB = Normal Ballast

Switching order would be DB1 ramps up, DB2 Ramps up NB turns on

My original thought was
FRONT
NB Giesemann Aquablue Plus
DB1 Giesemann Pure Actinic
NB Giesemann Midday
DB2 KZ Fiji Purple
DB1 Giesemann Actinic Plus
NB Giesemann Aqua Blue Plus
DB2 KZ Fiji Purple
NB Giesemann Midday

Any thoughts on how to improve bulb selection or placement?

Thanks

*NB Giesemann Actinic Plus
DB1 Giesemann Pure Actinic
NB Giesemann Midday
DB2 KZ Fiji Purple
DB1 Giesemann Actinic Plus
NB Giesemann Aqua Blue Plus
*NB KZ Fiji Purple
*DB2 Giesemann Actinic Plus

Did 2 lamp changes, Actinic Plus over Aquablue and 1 Midday and then position change in the rear as far as which ballast fires lamps 7 and 8. Keep more blue in the dimming lamps. If you decide 2 purple lamps would look nicer in the dimming ballasts just swap the positions.
 
Anybody knowcan the workhorse 5 run a 80watt t-5 Im wondering cause I have 2 cf retrofits on a planted tank and would like to run 2 80watt t5s instead of the 96 watt pc's
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14938397#post14938397 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatboyt123
I am setting up my 155 gallon bow-front tank and was going to go with MH but wanted to check out some other options.

want to know what i should go with a fixture or go with retros. If a fixture what brand.How many bulbs should i go with to get good coverage of my tank?

Is the bow part of me tank going to be had to cover but i dont think i will have to worry about it because i wont be placeing anything there.

Tank will be mainly SPS up at the top a few lps down at the bottom and maybe a clam or 2

You could use the ATI Fixture with 80 watt lamps, probably the 8 lamp fixture. Either that or the Aquactinics constellation 6 foot fixture. With the Constellation you could keep the tank stocked end to end because it uses 2 rows of 36" lamps to cover the 6 feet. The ATI would be more intense but only over 5 feet of length.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14938887#post14938887 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rarelyseriousb
hey Im setting up a 50 gallon display/frag tank. I have a 660 ballest and a work horse laying around. I like zoas mostly but also like a few simple sps and lps. Color is very important to me but Id also like to maximize growth also. I need new reflectors for this tank. also Im not sure I could use the workhorse or need to use it. how would you set up the lighting for the tank?

Isn't the footprint of the 50 36x18 and 24 tall? If I am right I'd try to sell the IC ballast and grab a 6 lamp Ice Cap retrofit that uses the standard T5 ballasts. You really don't need to overdrive the lamps. If you are on a budget and have to the workhorse will fire T5's but not as well as a real T5 ballast.

If you use the Ice Cap you could run 4 lamps on it and 2 on the WH. Thats going to be pretty intense light.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14938991#post14938991 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dan223
Anybody knowcan the workhorse 5 run a 80watt t-5 Im wondering cause I have 2 cf retrofits on a planted tank and would like to run 2 80watt t5s instead of the 96 watt pc's

I think the WH 7 will run 2 80 watt T5's. The 5 might run one. www.fulham.com has a ballast finder
 
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