The T5 Q&a Thread

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14975314#post14975314 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdmcdowe
Grim,
Need your help. Tank setup 72x18x24 3in sand bed, 4x110 48in VHO lighting, mostly softies, polyps, zoo's, would like to move up to T5 lighting and start adding LPS, clams and few SPS. Looking at ATI 6x80 60in, 8x80 60in and constellation 72in. 8 bulbs may be to wide, the inside top of the tank is only 16.5 with the lip. Bulbs setup also is needed. thanks

Thanks Grim for the help. Ordered the 6 lamp Powermodule.
Lamp placement -
Front
Blue +
Blue +
GE
Fiji purple
Blue +
Blue +

You will like the PM. Make sure to acclimate your corals to the new lighting. They may be a little upset to begin with but will adapt rather quickly. Also change the bulb order:

ATI BP
Fiji Purple
ATI BP
GE 6500K
ATI BP
ATI BP

 

[ataller]

Planning on putting some fans in my Tek.

If I were to run a temp probe into the fixture, connected to a controller, I could turn said fans off and on to prevent overcooling (not sure if that is possible).

If I were to do that what would be the ideal temp to run the fixture at?

Thank!

Adam

 

[Taqpol]

Once you have all the wires shoved down in there, how do you keep the water proof end cap from popping out of the mounting bracket? I'm having a heck of a time getting them to stay in with lights/wires/reflectors and everything...

 

[jmsalt1]

Can anyone out there post some shots of their T5 set-ups under a canopy on a tank that is only 48" long (e.g. 75, 90 or 120 gallon). I have a 90 and am interested in switching to T5's from my current 4X96w PC's but am worried about squeezing the 48" bulbs in the canopy along with the fans at each end as well. I just can't see it all fitting with the overall length of the bulbs, stand-off, endcaps & wiring. I would like to see it in place before I start buying retro parts only to find out the overall design will not fit.

If I must design a new canopy I will but was hoping it could be avoided.

 

[serum153]

Here is some pics of a ic660 retro. Bulb fit is not problem what so ever, just be sure to get the icecap reflectors or reefgeeks. I remember reading that the tek reflectors are a little longer, but Grim or rt can confirm that. I have since moved my 2 fans behind the endcaps on each side blowing from back to front of canopy. The endcaps are noticeably cooler than before. I will be adding another 2 to my set up soon and I am concerned about space, but we will see.

 

[serum153]

Here is a new pic showing the fan behind the endcaps. I have one positioned on each side and the cooling is great.

 

[jmsalt1]

serum,

Thanks for posting those pics. They are helpful and from the looks of it, I may need to reconfigure my existing canopy a bit or I just might need to design a slightly different canopy to get everything in the proper positions.

 

[kretzkiller]

i want to put fans in a tek as well. how and where should i put them?!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14975188#post14975188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lyfey
Thanks grim, I plan on putting the 75.25 as the second to front bulb of the t5's. I will try the fiji purple at a later date if Im not astounded with the color that this new setup will provide. Is that a good place for the 75.25? I was reading the whole thread and you mentioned putting the bulbs that effect pinks or reds in the front because thats your viewing angle. Also I noticed on my fixture that I only have one switch for the T5's and that the fans for the Halides dont run unless the T5's are on.. Kinda sucky..

Do you think there is a way to modify the fans and the ballasts of the t5's to something better? And also possibly put them on different switches? So I can run 1 set of t'5s at a time? So I could have 5 different light settings?

current setup that I will be using once I acclimate:
from the morning to night

blue led nightlights on 10 am
white led nightlights on at 11 am
actinics all t5 on at 12 noon (6x blue + , 2x 75.25)
Halides on at 2pm (3 10k, 2x current, 1x XM) For now...
Halides off at 8pm
Actinics off at 10pm
White Leds off at 11pm
Blue leds off at 12midnight.

I think with the halides being 10k and the great combo of T5 bulbs that 6 hours halides will be enough along with the 8 hours of T5s

Whats the gallery say?

Placement is good for the 75/25. As far as the wiring it depends. If it uses 2 ballasts for the T5's then you could add a separate power cord for the 2nd ballast. I'd maybe rn the T5's for a little longer, 10 hours at least I think.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14975526#post14975526 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by benf
Has anyone made/designed a way to raise and lower the fixture?

I recently got a powermodule and when i do maintenance to the tank i find anything less than 8" above the tank to be in the way.

So, how to raise and lower easily?

I am not sure if it is Aqamedics or sunlight supply but one of them has a cable hanging system with retractable cable spools so you can release the break with your thimbs are raise or lower your fixture to the desired height.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14976801#post14976801 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ataller
Planning on putting some fans in my Tek.

If I were to run a temp probe into the fixture, connected to a controller, I could turn said fans off and on to prevent overcooling (not sure if that is possible).

If I were to do that what would be the ideal temp to run the fixture at?

Thank!

Adam

You want the metal caps at the end of the lamps to be 114 degrees or so or the ambient air temp around 95 degrees

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14977078#post14977078 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Taqpol
Once you have all the wires shoved down in there, how do you keep the water proof end cap from popping out of the mounting bracket? I'm having a heck of a time getting them to stay in with lights/wires/reflectors and everything...

WHat brand of reflectors/mounts are you using? I haven't heard of that problem. You could use a couple dabs of silicone to hold them in place

 

[Galantra]

Grim i have a couple of question, I am currently working on my new 300g wanted to know should i go for a 10 or 12 overdriven 80w bulb unit? I am actually going to try and create my own fixture as wanted to know can you make a overdriven fixture dimmable?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14982928#post14982928 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kretzkiller
i want to put fans in a tek as well. how and where should i put them?!

I have found using an external fan clamped on the rear of the tank fram so it blows across the center rear of the fixture does a great job of cooling them. You want the air blowing level or even from slightly above the fixture, NOT BLOWING ON THE LAMPS> The 2 fan AZOO clamp on array fosters and smith sells works fine.

 

[ataller]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14983455#post14983455 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I have found using an external fan clamped on the rear of the tank fram so it blows across the center rear of the fixture does a great job of cooling them. You want the air blowing level or even from slightly above the fixture, NOT BLOWING ON THE LAMPS> The 2 fan AZOO clamp on array fosters and smith sells works fine.

Grim, what I would like to do, is open the tek up, and place some fans in the space between the backs of the reflectors and the top of the fixture, there is about 30mm in there, should be plenty of room for 15mm fans). I figure If I have a fan or two in the middle pulling air in, and one at each end pushing air out, I will have a nice cycle bringing room temp air into the fixture, passing it over the ends of the fixture and then back out again. What do you think of that?

As well, I am hoping to pickup a computer fan controller with temp probes, where do you think I should affix them, if I am aiming to make the metal ends 114 degrees, would placing the sensors on the backside of the reflector right over the ends of the lamps work?

I wish I had a diagram to explain what I mean, if you are having trouble understanding I could draw something and scan it in.

Thank you

Adam

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14983453#post14983453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Galantra
Grim i have a couple of question, I am currently working on my new 300g wanted to know should i go for a 10 or 12 overdriven 80w bulb unit? I am actually going to try and create my own fixture as wanted to know can you make a overdriven fixture dimmable?

Don't know if there are 80 watt dimmable T5 ballasts. I would use as many lamps as you can fit over the tank. Using reefgeek brand reflector you need 2 1/2 inches of space.

 

[mray]

Why shouldn't air be blowing at the lamps? I believe that the ATI power module has the air directed at the ends of each lamp.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14983676#post14983676 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mray
Why shouldn't air be blowing at the lamps? I believe that the ATI power module has the air directed at the ends of each lamp.

Zactly, The air is directed at the end of the lamp. If the air is directed at the middle section of the lamps they are over cooled and it hurts the output.

Blowing the air across the middle of the fixture causes slight air movement along the lamps which is all that is needed and also cools the ballasts which are mounted in the center of the fixture.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14983644#post14983644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ataller
Grim, what I would like to do, is open the tek up, and place some fans in the space between the backs of the reflectors and the top of the fixture, there is about 30mm in there, should be plenty of room for 15mm fans). I figure If I have a fan or two in the middle pulling air in, and one at each end pushing air out, I will have a nice cycle bringing room temp air into the fixture, passing it over the ends of the fixture and then back out again. What do you think of that?

As well, I am hoping to pickup a computer fan controller with temp probes, where do you think I should affix them, if I am aiming to make the metal ends 114 degrees, would placing the sensors on the backside of the reflector right over the ends of the lamps work?

I wish I had a diagram to explain what I mean, if you are having trouble understanding I could draw something and scan it in.

Thank you

Adam

I know what you want to do, there is a thread floating around where someone did it. The problem is without testing it with a PAR meter it is impossible to know how it will work. The external fan I have.

If you mount an probe that will read ambient air temp in a reflector channel and set it to hold 95 degrees in theory you will be close.

I would say maybe 3 mini fans mounted at one end blowing in with the label end of the lamps at that side of the fixture would do better than blowing in from the top. You need to get the air in the reflector channels to move, not sure you are going to get much blowing in from the top unless you were to seal the reflector ends and drill holes in the ends of the reflectors like the ATI Unit has. You would also have to seal off all the cooling ducts in the fixture too.

 

[Taqpol]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14983394#post14983394 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
WHat brand of reflectors/mounts are you using? I haven't heard of that problem. You could use a couple dabs of silicone to hold them in place

The IceCap brand retrofits from reefgeek.