Travis L. Stevens
New member
I don't see why not. It's a calicum bicarbonate compound just like Aragonite Sand, Crushed Coral, and Coral Skeletons, right?
Why would you want to use ARM media though?
The Ultimate DIY Rocks!
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I don't see why not. It's a calicum bicarbonate compound just like Aragonite Sand, Crushed Coral, and Coral Skeletons, right?
Why would you want to use ARM media though?
NCreefwannabe
New member
how would you go about making rocks to fit your powerheads in? like the tunze rocks. i saw that new eheim round powerhead and thought that would be a cool one to try since its round and would be an easier fit than say a mj or ac.
xinumaster
reef addict
Hi Travis, I always saved my used ARM media after use just in case something comes up.
Yes, it is crushed corals.
Yes, it is crushed corals.
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Travis L. Stevens
New member
Then it should be fine to use it. Expensive (unless it is left overs), but fine.
Insane Reefer
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Calcium Chloride is already a component of cement - too much might throw the formula off...
I Take Pictures
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NOTE:SORRY IF THIS HAS ALREADY BEEN SAID SOMEWHERE ELSE
This may be kind of a dumd question but with the 3rd batch would curing still be required for the pH? I have heard that w/ DIY rocks the cement can throw off the pH so it can take months of curing before they can be put in the tank. Would I still need to do this with the Portland Cement/Rock salt combo. W/O that pH problem I dont see why I can't just throw them in the tank right away, but just confirming.
Once again, sorry if this is a stupid qeustion.
This may be kind of a dumd question but with the 3rd batch would curing still be required for the pH? I have heard that w/ DIY rocks the cement can throw off the pH so it can take months of curing before they can be put in the tank. Would I still need to do this with the Portland Cement/Rock salt combo. W/O that pH problem I dont see why I can't just throw them in the tank right away, but just confirming.
Once again, sorry if this is a stupid qeustion.
I Take Pictures
New member
I made a couple other posts in other threads and Ive gotten alot of info from this site.
I just spend most of my time over on NR
.
I just spend most of my time over on NR
.I Take Pictures
New member
Wow, Im an idiot
After a little bit more reading, I found the answer to my qeustion was right around the corner
4-6 weeks in the curing bin just monitoring the pH is what I understand?
After a little bit more reading, I found the answer to my qeustion was right around the corner
4-6 weeks in the curing bin just monitoring the pH is what I understand?
Travis L. Stevens
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7762854#post7762854 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by I Take Pictures
Wow, Im an idiot
After a little bit more reading, I found the answer to my qeustion was right around the corner
4-6 weeks in the curing bin just monitoring the pH is what I understand?
Yes, sir (or ma'am). Some times it can take a little longer though and is also dependant on how often you do waterchanges. Monitoring the pH is the key.
I Take Pictures
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Covey
New member
So are you guys doing the tank safe testing with SW. I had been testing a few piece for the final tank safe test and very few of them are passing(stable pH<8.4). I am at or passed the 2 month point now and I fiqured more would be ready. I have added two pieces that did pass the FW test to no ill effect.
So should I be doing the final test with FW or SW?
this might be a question for Randy F. H. but I am think that my FW is softer to begin with and will always be more reactive when new DIY rock is added to it.
So should I be doing the final test with FW or SW?
this might be a question for Randy F. H. but I am think that my FW is softer to begin with and will always be more reactive when new DIY rock is added to it.
Hi, I've been to Home Depot and Reno Depot today and the only unmixed portland cement they had was "Type 10 (gu)/ Type I light". (both type written on the same package). Would that be ok. I know nothing about cement.
I couldn't get small size rock salt. I only found pellets or big size crystals for water softner. I'll keep looking.
I couldn't get small size rock salt. I only found pellets or big size crystals for water softner. I'll keep looking.
after curing and becoming stable in fresh water, you should do a 2 week cure in salt water. even though it is stable and fine in fresh, it will still raise the ph in salt, so do that final cure in salt to be sure
or if your tank is large, you could add rock a little at a time and just finish curing in tank. a little at a time won't wreck your tank ph. if you wanted to add it all at once, you'd probably want to do a salt cure for a couple weeks first.
or if your tank is large, you could add rock a little at a time and just finish curing in tank. a little at a time won't wreck your tank ph. if you wanted to add it all at once, you'd probably want to do a salt cure for a couple weeks first.
Insane Reefer
New member
Sleve - the typeI is fine - the 10gu thingy is for canadians, I think.
The cyrstal for water softener (has to be SOLAR Salt) is exactly what you want - remember, it will get smaller and smaller as you mix the cement with water, and what is left is the perfect size.
The cyrstal for water softener (has to be SOLAR Salt) is exactly what you want - remember, it will get smaller and smaller as you mix the cement with water, and what is left is the perfect size.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
I've stated this many times and would like to state it again. Make sure to get an MSDS Sheet!! This will tell you exactly what is in the product as well as it's purity. Better safe than sorry.
hangles
New member
hello everyone!
Just found this thread and i also have made rock useing GARF's method. my recipe is 1 part white portland cement 2 parts sand 1 part crushed coral 1 part aragonite 3/16 across and 1 part crushed oyster shell. I have made about 100 lbs it has a nice ruff texture. but does not have the porous quality that the rock salt mix has. will this effect my tanks ability to produce bacteria enough that i should scrap what i have made and start over ? also it has been curing for 7 weeks and the PH is still 8.8. is it the crushed oyster causing this ? in the last week it has started to grow green alge on the rock is this a sign that the PH is dropped?
thanks for any help !
Just found this thread and i also have made rock useing GARF's method. my recipe is 1 part white portland cement 2 parts sand 1 part crushed coral 1 part aragonite 3/16 across and 1 part crushed oyster shell. I have made about 100 lbs it has a nice ruff texture. but does not have the porous quality that the rock salt mix has. will this effect my tanks ability to produce bacteria enough that i should scrap what i have made and start over ? also it has been curing for 7 weeks and the PH is still 8.8. is it the crushed oyster causing this ? in the last week it has started to grow green alge on the rock is this a sign that the PH is dropped?
thanks for any help !
Travis L. Stevens
New member
Yes, the garf version's porosity is a huge limiting factor in denitrification. Though you should do just fine with eliminating Ammonia and Nitrite. The pH comes from the cement itself. Portland cement is limestone and clay. The limestone needs to be soaked in order to drop the pH. Is that freshwater algae or marine algae?
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