The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

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There was a question about white cemant earlier.I use the portland type 3 cement.It cures in half the time as the regular cement.Do any of you use vinagar to soak your rock in right after you make it?I have used pasta to make my rock more pourus.It dissolves in the vinager.I have also used rubber gloves to make my caves.I have a 19 pound chunk in my reef that is totaly hollow in side with holes through the sides.On this piece i used the oyster shells and portland cement.Another material i use is south down sand wich is very cheap to purchase.IMO if you do use the type 3 portland cement then all you need to do is change water every 4 days for about 2 to 3 weeks.Use a large plastic tub and keep it in your garage.
 
TRAVIS:
I said HHheight - not weight. I really don't know anything about the toilet flush, which is why I ask - I know when I look in my toilet, there is a riser like tube, and it is sort of tall - would that be part of the auto-flush system, and if so, if the tube is taller than the tub, would that cause problems, and if so, could the tube be shortened or left out all together?

JJMCAT:
I think I am the one with the white portland type ONE question.
This type one sets/cures really fast too, but has the density of something like porcelin <sp?>.
I may have jumped the gun about the usefulness of white type one, it takes a LOT longer for the salt to release - on average the grey type 1/2 releases the salt in a few hot water soaks over the course of a day or two, the white type 1 releases very slowly, but it does seem to be happening (the panels I posted have about 50% released, and have been soaking for well over a week). But I think that the white will be at least as useful in a tank as real live rock, given a LOT of time...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7547122#post7547122 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjmcat
...Another material i use is south down sand wich is very cheap to purchase.


I gotta ask. WHere are you getting Southdown at in Tulsa? I'm in MO and it doesn't exist here (and no, neither HD nor Lowes will order it). My step-dad is driving his truck to Texas in a month or two, and has said he would bring back whatever I can find that he can get - Southdown would be awesome. I think he has to go through OK to get to TX, so a southdown tip would rock ;)
 
Ok here is my proof of concept rocks
Nothing pretty just a blob


First the supplies
dcp_1276.jpg


Peanuts and the concrete = mush

dcp_1274.jpg



I sprayed the peanut with shellac 5 or 6 times drying in-between each coat
They will start to clump together if you spray them too much
You need the bow or you will be chasing the peanut all over the yard

dcp_1273.jpg


I have my rock soaking in a bucket of water too see how long it will take for the shellac to break down and let the water get too the peanuts
Ken
 
I love the toilet flush plan. But I'd need some way to automate this as my new job calls me to travel a lot. Anyone have a good idea on how to automate a once a day toilet flush without anything to crazy being required?
 
To enable a toilet to flush by itself, place a paper clip or other object under the drain flap,this will allow the tank to drain into the toilet. the higher you raise the flap, the more often it will flush!
 
Just to set the record straight. The Horse Crap was a joke. Sorry if anyone took it seriously. Maybe I wrote it the wrong way. The only point I was making was that the things that are introduced to the water or river can soak into the rock. (I believe) So I wouldn't want to put them into my tank. I guess my biggest concern would be the nitrates. If I am wrong, someone p[lease correct me. I would love to beable to throw my rocks in some stream in the spring and pick them out in mid summer. It would take all the work out of the water changes and I wouldn't have to pay for the water either.


Second thing. When I wrote auto top-off for the curing system for lowering the PH, I was mistaken. I wasn't thinking of the concentrating effects. I agree with the auto flush system. I am putting one together right now and hope to be done with it by the end of the week.
 
JJMCAT:
I think I am the one with the white portland type ONE question.
This type one sets/cures really fast too, but has the density of something like porcelin <sp?>.
I may have jumped the gun about the usefulness of white type one, it takes a LOT longer for the salt to release - on average the grey type 1/2 releases the salt in a few hot water soaks over the course of a day or two, the white type 1 releases very slowly, but it does seem to be happening (the panels I posted have about 50% released, and have been soaking for well over a week). But I think that the white will be at least as useful in a tank as real live rock, given a LOT of time... [/B][/QUOTE]

Have you used the type 3? I dont use the rocksalt at all,but if you do see what happens when you soak your rock in white vinagar for 24 hours.IMO the vinager quickens the harding process.I do make alot of reef plugs as well.I use the same process as i do with the rock.Pour my mix in mold then let sit for 18 to 24 hours,then rinse off rock.I then place the rock directly into the vinager and let sit for around 15 hours.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7547287#post7547287 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Insane Reefer
I gotta ask. WHere are you getting Southdown at in Tulsa? I'm in MO and it doesn't exist here (and no, neither HD nor Lowes will order it). My step-dad is driving his truck to Texas in a month or two, and has said he would bring back whatever I can find that he can get - Southdown would be awesome. I think he has to go through OK to get to TX, so a southdown tip would rock ;)

Its also called yard right sand.The bag will say not for aquarium use.The way to find out if the sand you buy is calcium based is to place the sand in some vinager and if the sand dissapears then your in the clear.Some one earlier was talking about silica based sand.A very good friend of mine and Travis has a silica deep sand bed in his tank now for 4 years.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7548544#post7548544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Savatage
Just to set the record straight. The Horse Crap was a joke. Sorry if anyone took it seriously. Maybe I wrote it the wrong way. The only point I was making was that the things that are introduced to the water or river can soak into the rock. (I believe) So I wouldn't want to put them into my tank. I guess my biggest concern would be the nitrates. If I am wrong, someone p[lease correct me. I would love to beable to throw my rocks in some stream in the spring and pick them out in mid summer. It would take all the work out of the water changes and I wouldn't have to pay for the water either.


Second thing. When I wrote auto top-off for the curing system for lowering the PH, I was mistaken. I wasn't thinking of the concentrating effects. I agree with the auto flush system. I am putting one together right now and hope to be done with it by the end of the week.


I use just plain old tap water for the leaching process.Never had a problem yet and my tank is pushing 2 years old.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7547753#post7547753 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Barry L
To enable a toilet to flush by itself, place a paper clip or other object under the drain flap,this will allow the tank to drain into the toilet. the higher you raise the flap, the more often it will flush!

Why go through all the extra trouble?Just grab a tub from wal-mart and use it.Find a nice place in the back yard or garage and let it sit.Change the water a few days.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7548692#post7548692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjmcat
Have you used the type 3? [/B]

No, the only type of cement I can find locally is type 1 or 1/2, no straight type 2 or type 3 in either grey or white :(

I've heard about the vinegar bath (as well as muriatic acid), but from what I've read, it only "masks" the pH - If after the bath, you wait a few days, then soak the rock again for several days, the pH shows higher than one thought it would. This is just hearsay - I do not know from experience. I do know that type 3 is lower in Alk, so that would explain a shorter kure time with or without the vinegar bath....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7548727#post7548727 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjmcat
Its also called yard right sand.The bag will say not for aquarium use.

I have 3 bags sitting in my garage, hoarded for when I setup my tank. So I know all about it - and even by "Yard Right", it isn't available here, which is why I wondered where you were getting it - as I said, my stepdad is going to TX in a month or two to check his herd, and said he'd pick stuff up for me...
I was under the impression that SD wasn't available anywhere except the east coast area...
So - where did you get it???
Please, please, please tell me!!!
 
ANd while speaking of sand...
Is "Industrial Quartz" ok to use for rocks? I think it is used for sand-blasting - looks right, but fails the fuzz test. Was wondering if this is the same as Silica sand???
 
I made some rocks Sunday.. the first few I think I didnt have enough cement.. everything came out rock solid, but the first few have too much of a chunky look to them with all the rock... can I brush on another coat or two of cement on there to make it look more like a rock now?

thanks
G
 
I've been "painting" my grey rocks with white cement, so wouldn't see why not, but you mention "with all the rock"; did you use concrete or cement, and what was your aggregate? Concrete, while it will work (sort of), has gravel and sand pre-mixed, and neither of these (of the types used in concrete) will add anything but weight to your rock - no benefit at all, and ugly to boot...
But yeah, I do multi cast rocks too (make the base and add features after that sets) and haven't had a problem with that at all either, so knock yourself out and make some prettier rocks :)
 
Coating old rocks

Coating old rocks

yes you can coat your rocks with other layers I take rocks I do not like and smaller rocks and cement them to each other this sometimes a good way to make arch ways and different type caves. The acid and vinager bath will quickly reduce the Ph the problems come in that the only the surface is reduced and the center of the rock will still be leaching after you take the rock out it is called a rebound effect. Been making rocks for over four years and the best way is still make your rock pourous and cure in water. For the newbies the dryer your mix is the more pourous your rock will be. Once you hit the magic porportion of sand cement to water you will be able to pour water through the rock. Good luck and have fun
 
I haven't read this "hole" post but I figured I share my newest rocks. I think these are the best I've made.
I used Portland type I & II cement from Home Depot. Type I paver sand and Pea gravel from Lowes. Rock salt from HD

1 part cement
2 part paver sand
2 part pea gravel
1 part salt
1/2 part water

They are very porous. The water runs right through them. I use some of the paver sand in a box to make a basic shape. Layering sand in places (layers) helps with shelves and tunels etc...I cover everything with more sand, some sticks to the rock making them alittle lighter in color...

Hope its not repetitive, but here are some pics!

diyrock1-2-2006.jpg


diyrock1-2-2004.jpg


diyrock1-2-2005.jpg


diyrock1-2-2002.jpg
 
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