The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13425506#post13425506 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by customcolor
how would the wax get out from inside the rock? i know water can get in there to get out the salt put it takes weeks. you might beable to ues chunks of wax for the molding part of making the rock but i dont think i would used it for in side the rock.
If the concrete is porous, which it should be, the wax in theory will drip right out. No need to centrifuge it, just set it outside on a hat sunny day. Too bad the summer season is ending here. Anyone in Phoenix want to test this idea?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13425506#post13425506 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by customcolor
how would the wax get out from inside the rock? i know water can get in there to get out the salt put it takes weeks. you might beable to ues chunks of wax for the molding part of making the rock but i dont think i would used it for in side the rock.
good point, but if you use different size stick's you could mold the wax in any shape you wanted. if you use a whole bunch of sticks going through in all different derections it would make a very porise rock after bakeing the wax out .
 
Finally

Finally

Just added an image of my first 5 pieces of Man Made Live Rock to my gallery. Already cured and kured, just started to cycle them today. Before i add them to my display tank i will rough up some of the sharp edges to make them look a little more natural. (See Image In Image Gallery). Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread. Quag.:dance:
 
Inukshuk rock

Inukshuk rock

Hello all,

I've been reading this thread for years. This is really an amazing community research effort. It has been extremely fun following the progress of the community-knowledge on DIY rock. This thread is a remarkable example of group-effort problem-solving and all users that had posted over the years should be proud. Thank you for writing and posting!

Now, I is time for me to share my experiences.

I spend some time in the Caribbean snorkeling and picking live rock up to see how it works and how it was formed.

In short... I found that rock is an amalgamation of coral rubble... glued together with sponges and coralline algae. So decided to replicate, in my basement, the process of natural live-rock-making.

The photos at the bottom were done with a mixture of 60% aragonite and 40% cement. However, I tried many other mixtures (with and without salt) and they all work well as long you use the magic secret: Make the rock in TWO STEPS!!

In the first step you make the rubble... which are small pieces of rock made to resemble coral rubble. Let is harden for a day or so and then continue to step two. The rubble pics below where done on a bed or wet aragonite... where the rubble shapes were carved, filled with mixture, and covered with more wet aragonite.

In Step two... first make the glue (same aragonite/cement mix as before) and then use it to glue together the "rubble" pieces. Put a few rubble pieces on an aragonite bed... and then add a few dollops of mix... more rubble... more dollops... and so on. Make sure to place some dollops at the joints between rubble pieces. At the end you can spray a bit of water (skirt-bottle works fine) to wash-off some of the cement and expose the aragonite. Let it harden for a few days and viola!! Natural looking DIY rock.

Then you need to do the kuring and so... as any other cement-made rock.

The innovation in this process... the trick... is to make the rock in 2-steps, so I decided to call rocks made with this 2-step process: Inuckshuk rocks

The definition of Inuckshuk is a man-made pile of stones. They were used by Inuits (before called Eskimos) as land marks to find "their way" in the far north, where there are no trees or prominent land features.

I figured that the name Inuckshuk will be a good descriptor of this DIY rock.... "a man-made pile of rubble".

The name Inuckshuk can be used as a quick way to differentiate the product from the rock made with the more traditional method using sand molds.

Some nice features of Inuckshuk rock:

1) Looks very natural
Because it mimics the natural live-rock-making process... the end result looks very realistic... or so to say... natural. This rock resembles some sort of "tonga branch" and it is very appealing.

2) High surface-to-volume ratio
This rock increases the surface-to-volume ratio in a fundamentally different way that the traditional method, where the main goal is to increase porosity. Inuckshuk rock increases the surface-to-volume ratio by making lots of tunnels and crevices.

Whether by pores or by tunnels/crevices... both methods to increase surface-to-volume ratio have advantages and disadvantages. As pore-size decreases its contribution to surface (relative to volume) increases... suggesting that making smaller pores is a better choice. However, as pore size decreases water flow through the pore also decreases... and since water flow is essential to deliver the oxygen that bacteria need to process ammonia and nitrites... very small pores may not be as effective to cycle nutrients. Water exchange in very small pores is governed by molecular diffusion, while water exchange in tunnels and crevices is governed by turbulent diffusion... which is orders of magnitude larger than molecular diffusion. Finally, larger pores and crevices allow pods and other small organisms (larger than bacteria) to live in the rock and hide from larger creatures. But the best of all... you don't have to choose between a porous or a cavy/tunnely rock... you can do both! ... you can use cement mixtures with salt to increase porosity and at the same time use the Inuckshuk method to increase crevices and tunnels.

3) Cheaper
You can create great rocks without salt, wax, and other extra materials meant to leave the rock (to make voids). As said above, you can still use this materials if you wish... but if you want do it on the VERY cheap, you can follow this method and still end up with perfectly operational and functional rock (from the chemical and biological point of view).

4) Blends like "real" ocean rock.
After I made my first batch... I piled it all up in the basement. When finished, I looked at the pile and I immediately had a "flash-back" from my snorkeling times in the Caribbean. It looked like "ocean floor". When Inuckshuk rock is piled... you can't tell when one rock ends and the next one begins. When a branch of one rock touches an adjacent rock... suddenly it looks like ONE single larger rock with a cave or tunnel in the middle. You can't tell apart rubble that is glued from rubble that is just touching the adjacent rock. Inuckshuck rock blends great!

Here are some pic of my fist batch of Inuckshuk rock. I hope this post was of help.

203697mini-rock3.jpg


203697mini-rock4.jpg


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203697mini-rock2.jpg


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203697mini-IMG_0603.JPG
 
i like the branch pieces very much, how did you get the three dimensional feel to them casting in aragonite?
 
Wow those rocks give me a divin flashback! Thank you so much for sharing! I think I'm goin to have to break out that aragonite and white portland again soon (time for me to buy a pH meter). I'm going to have to get some magnets and try some pieces I can stick to the side of the glass out.
 
The one picture looks like a pride of lions helped with the design or a litter box that hasn't been cleaned for a year.

Seriously, they look great.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13515234#post13515234 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sly fox
i like the branch pieces very much, how did you get the three dimensional feel to them casting in aragonite?

Do you mean the branches (i.e. rubble bits) or the Inuckshucks themselves? ...

Rubble: I placed some wet aragonite on a rubermaid container (see pic) and then I make some ripples on the aragonite. Flat is definitely not good.

Then I carve the shape of the rubble with my finger and proceed to fill the mold with the cement/aragonite mixture. Make sure the mixture is very think. Then you have 2 options: (1) cover with wet aragonite or (2) spray the rubble with water. That will get rid of a thin layer of cement exposing the aragonite and making it look pretty real.

If you were asking about the actual finished Inuckshuk rocks ... I explained it in detail in the post... rubble and dollop ... rubble and dollop. That's all!

I'm glad you guys liked them!


I haven't done a batch in a while... but in my good times I was doing 300 lbs per day. (sniffels
:( ) i wish I had more time.
 
Looks great !
I have just one question... doing so many rocks (300 lbs a day!), what technique do you use for the curing process ??? I just can't get rid of that high PH and I have just a few pounds of rocks in my water containers :rolleyes:
 
Aha! ... I forgot to mention and important trick!

As soon as you mix the cement with water the hydration reaction start producing Calcium hydroxide which causes the pH to increase. Nothing new... this was discussed many times before in this thread.

The part that may be new, is that the hydration reactions take about a months to finish... so if you put your rocks in water at say day 5... you need to leave them in water for 3 weeks. HOWEVER... if you put them in water at day 30... you just need to leave them in the water for 1 or 2 days.

Ok... let me say it again in a different way... Calcium-hydroxide that HAS NOT been produced CANNOT be leached out of the rock... So to be efficient... let the reaction finish so you can get rid of all the calcium hydroxide in a shot immersion time.

So I let my rocks to complete the hydration reactions in air for a month or a bit more (spraying the rocks with water every once in while to keep them humid enough) ...and then I place them in a tub with running water for a couple of days to get rid of the Calcium hydroxide. The end result... I just need to keep my rocks in water for a few days rather than a month.

To make 300 lb / day you need to work you way up... at the end... everyday you make new rock... you take harden rock to the air-kuring pile... you take rocks from the air-kuring pile to the leaching tubs and you take leached rock from the leaching-tubs to the to the aging tubs (with lights, snails, and powerheads). Or from the leaching tubs to the ready to sell pile of dry (kured) rock.

Actually... when you are doing that many rocks... is not quite as much fun.
 
Hum... don't always work that way, not with all kind of rocks, sorry !
My rocks have been "air-kuring" for 4-6 weeks, and then soaked for 4 weeks (changing water 1-2 times per week)... and PH still above 10 !!!
BUT my rocks are made with white Portland cement and Oyster shells ... so O.S. may be responsible ???
Also, my tap water is a around PH 7.8, which may not help either... (?)
 
Hum... don't always work that way, not with all kind of rocks, sorry !
My rocks have been "air-kuring" for 4-6 weeks, and then soaked for 4 weeks (changing water 1-2 times per week)... and PH still above 10 !!!
BUT my rocks are made with white Portland cement and Oyster shells ... so O.S. may be responsible ???
Also, my tap water is a around PH 7.8, which may not help either... (?)
 
Hum... don't always work that way, not with all kind of rocks, sorry !
My rocks have been "air-kuring" for 4-6 weeks, and then soaked for 4 weeks (changing water 1-2 times per week)... and PH still above 10 !!!
BUT my rocks are made with white Portland cement and Oyster shells ... so O.S. may be responsible ???
Also, my tap water is a around PH 7.8, which may not help either... (?)
 
I think the main difference between your setup and mine is that in mine I have a continuous inflow (and outflow) of water from the kuring tubs... so it works out that the water is changed about 3 to 4 times a day (lots of current in the tubs to ensure complete mixing).

But I completely agree with what you said... making rocks involves many many variables. So depending on mixture, shape, surface-to-volume ratio, water temperature and pH and so on... the kuring process will be different from rock to rock.

Cheers,
 
Has anyone "coated" pvc pipe in aragrocrete? I imagine having different lengths of pipe and fittings coated in with it and being able to assemble my own "rockwork". If you use the "dallop" method outline by inukshuk then you should be able to make it fairly camouflaged. You could make a skeletal structure to place real rock on while being able to change the structure on a wim or add a ledge for a new frag or two.
 
Great looking rock....Helps to make rock when you dont have 5-7 dollars a pound for live rock. Still need the live though to at least get it seeded but considering doing about 50 pounds of this to add to my 120 build currently. (Have 75 pound of live already in my other tank)
 
Ok... I admit my question above was kind of harsh and impersonal. Actually, after a few days... I looked at my post and it even looked a bit scam-ish.

Please... allow me to start again.

Motivation:
I am concerned about the ecological implications of harvesting wild live rock at the scale we are doing so.

Aquacultured rock (land-mined lime stone placed in the ocean to get colonized by marine organisms) is a great alternative, but it more expensive to do than the wild harvest so it is only done when laws prohibit wild-harvest or when the wild source are all mined (or at least close to). As of today, I understand that most rock is NOT aquacultured.

Now... let me proposed a completely different model:
Lets envision an aquarium hobby where most of the rock is made in peoples homes...
Rock is let to get live in peoples homes... and then sold to newer hobbyist on a small scale. Lets suppose that there is a Craigslist or a Kijiji EXCLUSIVE for rock... where you can browse photos or descriptions (or both)... find the rocks that you like... and then contact the owner to arrange a local pickup.

Lets imagine a saltwater aquarium hobby model where hobbyists... say every month... get down to the basement and make some rocks.... and also put a few harden rocks in their tanks to let the calcium hydroxide (i.e. Kalwaisser) leach out into their tanks and replenish used calcium.
Obviously, after a few moths, tanks will be full of rocks (some of them very live). So then hobbyists take a few photos of the extra rocks they have and the put them into this kinda' Rock-Craigslist where rocks can be sold to newer hobbyists that are just starting and need rock.

As you see... only a bit of wild-rock needs to be harvested (as brood-stock for the aquacultured rock). The impact to environment is minimalized... and aquarium hobbyiest have the chance to make a few extra bucks.

Weird model... but it may just work. Don't you think?

Please, give me some feedback!
 
Anybody here heard of "Thorite 400" ???
Supposed to be a cement based , polymer modified, patching mortar that is rock hard in 3 hours, and, (here comes the interesting part !) could be put straight in the tank the day after ... is there such a thing ??? If so, can it be mixed with oyster shells or others to give it a better look ?
No curing/kuring time ... sounds too good to be true !! Of course it is much more expensive than the good old stuff, but who cares !!
 
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