Time to ask for some help

[Doobze]

I'll consider moving up to weekly 5g water changes, but from the charts I've seen detailing the different methods of water change, daily changes are only very slightly less efficient at nutrient export. I know there's an article around here showing the N03 dropoff regarding water changes.

As for the Reef Chilli, I stopped feeding that when I stopped carbon dosing several weeks ago when I dropped to 1x feeding a day. And yet my N03 has actually increased since then when it was on the drop. I'm pretty frustrated right now and I'm reluctant to make any more changes, I don't want to change my routine again, but it's pretty clear that I've actually lost some color in the last few weeks.

9-10 dKH is low? I thought that was a pretty decent level. I've been measuring with a Salifert kit, but it's probably time I replace that. I'll order a different kit from a different manufacturer when I order my new skimmer tomorrow.

Mighty frustrating. I'm about to measure my P04 again. I'll bet money that it's still 0. Which just baffles me further, because by all accounts, my problem is one of nutrients, with at least 25ppm N03, but 0 P04, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me as I'm running no P04 removing system at all. Maybe I should get a new N03 kit too.

 

[klepto]

I'll consider moving up to weekly 5g water changes, but from the charts I've seen detailing the different methods of water change, daily changes are only very slightly less efficient at nutrient export. I know there's an article around here showing the N03 dropoff regarding water changes.

As for the Reef Chilli, I stopped feeding that when I stopped carbon dosing several weeks ago when I dropped to 1x feeding a day. And yet my N03 has actually increased since then when it was on the drop. I'm pretty frustrated right now and I'm reluctant to make any more changes, I don't want to change my routine again, but it's pretty clear that I've actually lost some color in the last few weeks.

9-10 dKH is low? I thought that was a pretty decent level. I've been measuring with a Salifert kit, but it's probably time I replace that. I'll order a different kit from a different manufacturer when I order my new skimmer tomorrow.

Mighty frustrating. I'm about to measure my P04 again. I'll bet money that it's still 0. Which just baffles me further, because by all accounts, my problem is one of nutrients, with at least 25ppm N03, but 0 P04, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me as I'm running no P04 removing system at all. Maybe I should get a new N03 kit too.

Can you point me to the charts you have been looking at?

No, dKH levels sound fine- I'm just questioning if they are a good representation of actual levels. I like Salifert's dKH kit. I would stick with their option and just buy a new kit and test it against your current one. How old is the kit you have been using?

If you reduced feedings and NO3 levels are testing higher than something is off. That doesn't make any logical sense.

 

[Doobze]

I'll look around, I remember seeing it pop up quite a bit. It follows a similar principle to those with systems that do 1% daily continuous water exchanges.

The Salifert kit is about a year old, and I remember testing it against my API kit when I still had that a while back and it checked out, but it's possible it's gotten messed up since then.

Well, when I was feeding 2x a day I was also dosing 10ml MB7 daily and 5ml Biofuel once a week to get my N03 down, which I thought was a pretty conservative approach, and I thought it was doing ok at the time, but I was told pretty universally to cut out all carbon dosing, so I stopped and started feeding only 1x a day, the same amount I mentioned above, 2 pinches of enough pellets to form a single layer between two fingers and 1/2 cube mysis when I feed that. Nothing goes uneaten and there's virtually no sign of food in the tank after about 5 minutes of feeding, no detritus or food piles anywhere that I can see, and I can see pretty much everywhere. I was reluctant to feed less at the time because my P04 was already reading 0 ppm per my Hanna checker, hence the use of MB7 and BF to get my N03 down.

 

[klepto]

Ah! My bad. I neglected to consider the impact that the carbon dosing would have. That would explain the rise in NO3. Since it has only been a few weeks since you stopped dosing, give your tank a little time to stabilize bacterial populations.

I would replace your KH kit asap. I have friends that prefer Elos' dKH kit because it isn't as complicated as Saliferts. If you aren't fond of titrations, then it may be worth trying.

Also, I noticed that you stopped running GFO after having an issue with the carbon dosing. Consider getting a GFO reactor online. I run BRS's ROX carbon and pellet GFO in the same reactor with great results.

 

[Doobze]

Well, my P04 checker reads at 0 ppm and has proved to be pretty accurate in the past, I've checked it against other colorimeters in different tanks and gotten the same result, so I'm pretty reluctant to run GFO again, I've seen what it can do even in non carbon dosed tanks. And there is no algae growth to give me a false reading.

You can see why I'm so frustrated haha.

 

[Doobze]

Honestly, my tank right now looks very nutrient starved with gray and pale colors and no coraline, even my zoos and acans are washed out. Which is consistent with 0 P04, but the N03 tells a different story, so I have no idea which direction to go.

 

[klepto]

I can relate! Don't get down about it. Reef tanks can turn around for the better just as fast as they can go south.

Fair enough. If you trust your checker, then go with that.

If not GFO then what about running a carbon reactor to help control your (supposed) nitrate issue? Only run a few tablespoons of media if you are worried about ill effects.

Also, lets try to focus on fundamentals. What are you using to monitor your salinity? If a refractometer, then how often do you calibrate it?

 

[Doobze]

Yeah, I can run some carbon, I have some BRS stuff I can use, I'm ok with that. I hope that the new skimmer does something too. Right now my skimmer doesn't collect much of anything, it just gets the neck dirty, but if I try and raise the water level any it basically overflows. I think it's just too big and with too big a neck for my system and isn't really pulling anything out.

 

[Doobze]

I just recently recalibrated using the pinpoint calibration fluid and it checked out, I use the marine depot refractometer, which has also checked out in tanks that are doing well.

New test kits, new skimmer, looks like I'm dipping heavily into the tank fund this week haha.

 

[klepto]

What kind of skimmer are you getting?

New kits are important. Kits are a purchase that isn't as much fun as many others, but they can really be helpful, especially in situations like yours.

I calibrate my refractometer every single time I make up water for a WC. Some refractometers swing more than others, and I prefer to take the extra few seconds to ensure that my measurements are precise. Following through with calibrations is a step that by itself has made a big impact on many of the reef tanks I am familiar with. If salinity isn't stable; sg=1.026 or (35ppt) then testing for other related parameters is a waste of time.

 

[Doobze]

I calibrate every couple of weeks when I make new water as well, it's never really strayed for me.

I'm looking at the Super Reef Octopus XP1000, it's smaller, rated for about 110g and has a much smaller neck which I think will help with my skimmate collection. My Reef Octo 160 just never stabilized, despite being in completely stable water level at the depth that was recommended to my by the manufacturer, 8". Either the foam doesn't reach the collection or it it overflows and it's always been that way with my systems of about 50g total water volume.

 

[mike810]

had the same problem as you until recently. Started feeding my corals and checking alk every other day to keep it stable. That has worked for me. My acans and zoos are kinda washed out also but i think thats due to too much light.

I have very little coraline growth on my rocks exposed to the light. but rocks that are shaded have good coraline growth. Again i attribute this to too much light.

 

[Doobze]

Well, I just dropped an uncomfortable amount of money on my aquarium haha. New bulb (trying out the new Elos 20k Abyss), some API test kits to back up my current readings (for how cheap they are they've always been accurate for me), new skimmer, and some food that's more targeted for SPS, Coral Frenzy. We'll see about dosing it once I can get my N03 down.

For anybody in the Bay Area that's interested in some cheap gear, including my old 36" Outer Orbit Pro fixture, check my thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2033100

Btw, does anybody know what setting to run the Elos 20k Abyss bulb at on my galaxy ballast? 250w or HQI?

 

[humuhumupukapuka]

Seems like you're doing the right things. but obviously something isn't dialed in... Some of those corals, esp. the montis should be definitely growing...

I'm not sure what you think about bumping up your tank temp a degree or two... that might help,

Also, you might want to let some detritus sit. A friend of mind rarely does water changes and uses tap water (even though he has an RO/DI system) and he has SPS growing and coloring just fine...of course his sps are not the most sensitive, but they are at least as sensitive as your montis...

I read a lot of people rave about fish poop being good for their corals. (google it) Maybe you are over thinking things...

 

[Doobze]

I feel like people with tanks like that are exceptions to the rule rather than the norm haha, I wish I had a tank that was that easy.

I've been thinking of adjust my temp range to sit around 78, it would keep my fan from kicking on too often in the summer, which it does because my 2nd floor old apartment gets HOT with no AC.

I would gladly let some detritus sit if my N03 were low, but it's pretty high according to my tests, we'll see if my API kit confirms my Elos test when it arrives.

 

[Doobze]

Ah, new info. So apparently, I'm wrong, as I frequently am, I consider it my default state at this point.

BUT, my P04 is sitting around .07-.1ppm. Now, I don't think this entirely the cause of my problems, but I'm going to put in a little bit of GFO, maybe a quarter of the recommended dose to start slow and I'll measure again in a few days and see if anything improves.

 

[clowndude]

Not sure if you mentioned but how is your PE on the sps? Another good product I use and know a bunch of people that use it is the seachem fuel. When I started using that my corals started growing faster and my coralline really started growing. I know coral frenzy is good for feeding your sps. Just be real careful not to overdue the coral frenzy though or you could get some algae problems.

 

[Doobze]

Several of my sps have some pretty decent PE, including my tenuis, red planet, and green slimer, while my rusty pink milli definitely should be more hairy. And I'm trying to hold off on using any additives till my fundamentals fall in line. But I actually do have a bottle of that stuff sitting in my fridge, haven't used it yet though

 

[Doobze]

I have some dry rock from BRS around here still, I didn't use all of what I ordered, how do you guys feel about throwing a chunk in the sump for added bacterial filtration? Would this make much of a difference? Good or bad idea?

 

[mike810]

Bad idea. I'd cure it first. The last time I threw in some dry rock. I had a major bacterial bloom. Slime everywhere. Unless the pieces are small then I wouldn't. Cure it first then throw it in