time to buy a new camera?

[bcjm]

I know. I know. Don't laugh, I am still using a Canon G2. I refuse to buy a new camera until I am sure it is not me. All the photos I got are very "blue". They don't show the colors that I "see". I use tripod and macro setting (not a macro lens). I have tried all the default white balance settings and tried to reset using a white paper.

Is it time to buy a new camera or there is something I still can try?

 

[JaYbIrD1969]

A much cheaper solution would be a photoshop program. You can change the white balance using photoshop. You wont have as much control as you would with a dslr shooting in RAW, but you can significantly improve the white balance and levels in post processing.

 

[bcjm]

Are you saying shoot it with raw format then do all the editing with photoshop?

 

[BlueCorn]

Yup.

 

[JaYbIrD1969]

Yeah. Youll be surprised at how well you can dial in the colors in post processing with a fairly simple editing program. I rarely fuss with white balance in any of my photography because I know I can dial it in afterwards.

 

[bcjm]

I see people selling old photoshop version (5,6,8) for $15 - $30. Are these versions good enough to do what I want to do?

 

[Robb in Austin]

Try out GIMP. It's free.

My only complaint is it will only go to 15K on WB. And I don't know how to fully use it. And it doesn't support RAW/NEF natively.

Lots of people use Photoshop elements and it's reasonably priced too(if you want brand new software.)

 

[BlueCorn]

Actually, rather that Photoshop, I'd recommend Lightroom. It's got a much easier learning curve when it comes to RAW processing.

 

[bcjm]

I google lightroom. Isn't that is part of photoshop?

 

[BlueCorn]

It's in Adobes "Photoshop family" but it's geared toward photography only. Photoshop is great, and I use it a lot, but 90% of my processing is done in LR.

 

[jroovers]

It's in Adobes "Photoshop family" but it's geared toward photography only. Photoshop is great, and I use it a lot, but 90% of my processing is done in LR.

+1. I use LR3 99% of the time and I have LR and PS. If you are a teacher or student (or someone in your family is) get them to get the academic version, $90 well spent.

 

[Fly77]

Sorry to ask, but I don't know your expertise in photography. How do you use the white paper as your white reference?

It has to be under the exact same light than your subject. If you're taking photos of your reef, you need to find something white that you can put inside the tank, take the picture and use it as the reference.

 

[JaYbIrD1969]

Sorry to ask, but I don't know your expertise in photography. How do you use the white paper as your white reference?

It has to be under the exact same light than your subject. If you're taking photos of your reef, you need to find something white that you can put inside the tank, take the picture and use it as the reference.

This thread is discussing how to skip that and use photoshop :thumbsup:

 

[jroovers]

This thread is discussing how to skip that and use photoshop :thumbsup:

I still think it is worth trying to get as close as you can in camera before going to post. That way you are more making tweaks and small adjustments compared to large ones. The OP noting using a white sheet to "reset" the WB - the idea behind a white sheet, coffee filter, gray card etc. is to create a custom WB setting. My advice would be to get as close as you can out of the camera, and then use a PP program to tweak it further.

 

[BlueCorn]

If you're shooting RAW, the white balance doesn't get cooked into the file so it's mostly wasted effort. I too, try to get it as right as possible "in camera" but some things don't make sense.

 

[Fly77]

I still think it is worth trying to get as close as you can in camera before going to post. That way you are more making tweaks and small adjustments compared to large ones. The OP noting using a white sheet to "reset" the WB - the idea behind a white sheet, coffee filter, gray card etc. is to create a custom WB setting. My advice would be to get as close as you can out of the camera, and then use a PP program to tweak it further.

Couldn't agree with you more!

I may be old school (I still use b&w film and chrome), but it's easier if you try to resolve the photo during the shoot the max you can. IMHO it's way better than, in some cases, lost hours in front of a computer, and sometimes still don't get the desired results.

That said, 1+ with the combination of raw and lightroom.

 

[JaYbIrD1969]

The OP noting using a white sheet to "reset" the WB .

You are correct. My apologies for overlooking that :headwalls:

Theres no question that understanding white balance is paramount in obtaining consistant results. Tho its not totaly necessary with todays technology.

I think reef aquarium light is some of the most challanging conditions to acheive accurate color. The white card/grey card method does involve shooting an image of the card in the lighting you are trying to photograph. So idealy you do want to put the card in the tank for the best results.

Theres lots of info online about custom white balance settings.

 

[naldopr]

there so much to learn in photography

 

[Finesse]

I think reef aquarium light is some of the most challanging conditions to acheive accurate color.

So idealy you do want to put the card in the tank for the best results.

So true ....


bcjm

Go to Adobe and download the trial version ( its a full working version ) of Lightroom 4 and then you can try before you buy .... There is also a bunch of info on the net about it and how to use it.

 

[Big E]

I have a Cannon G3 and it works fine for everything.

--shoot in RAW
-- most of my shots are at 5.0. I target -2/3 light reading which kills most glare. I go by the -2/3 more than the shutter speed, especially for top down shots because the light cast is never quite the same.
--- I set a custom white balance with a piece of white PVC in the tank.

I use a Zoombrowser version for my Camera and then use Digital Photo professional. Most often I only have to adjust sharpness and brightness/contrast.

Go to the Cannon wesite and get those programs specific to your camera. They're free to Cannon owners.

This link is for my camera, but you can find what you need searching off this link--

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/suppo...shot_g_series/powershot_g3#DriversAndSoftware

If you need any help, let me know.