stunreefer
Reef Hugger
Should be fine, assuming the tank is cycled or at least a seasoned filter is used. I use a method similar to Peter. Unfortunately I haven't found a decent Cu test kit. Seachems is a joke.
Tips for treating with cupramine?
- Thread starter ConnorG
- Start date
Thanks for all the help! I actually decided on treating them ALL in a 55 dedicated specifically to hospital/quarentine usage. But I am still a little confused on the water change thing. If I change 2 gallons on my 10 gallon tank shouldn't I just add 2 drops to the water change water to make up for the missing?
Also is it normal for the clowns to be hanging in the bottom of the tank in the corners? I added the first dose today and it hasn't shown on the test yet but is it ok if I added like 2 more drops tomarrow and then the normal 10 drops on Thursday? Also am I able to use amolock or will it have adverse affects? How do I deal with ammonias? I am just worried because they are swimming on the bottom part of the tank and my female isn't really leaving the bottom corners all that much. They are both breathing heave but I ready that is symptomatic to ich and they were stressed yesterday when I caugh them. I just hope they get better and I'm sorry for all the questions I am just freaking out a little bit!
I'd say yes, it's normal behavior for the clowns being put into a QT. Did you add any large PVC pieces for them to hide in/around?
As for dealing with ammonia, that's what having a seeded biological filter in the AquaClear is for. You'll have to do water chnages to keep ammonia down if the filter wasn't seeded.
If you don't actually see any signs of disease, then sure, wait a while longer before ramping up the cupramine, if you like.
As for dealing with ammonia, that's what having a seeded biological filter in the AquaClear is for. You'll have to do water chnages to keep ammonia down if the filter wasn't seeded.
If you don't actually see any signs of disease, then sure, wait a while longer before ramping up the cupramine, if you like.
Yes, if you've only ever added 10 drops to the 10g tank. But if you've aded 10 drops once a day, for 3 days, then you now have 30 drops in a 10g tank. That's 3 drops per gallon. So if you change 2 gallons, 2 x 3 = 6. You need to add 6 drops to the 2 new gallons of water you are adding.
Yes we can! I am actually preparing to remove all if my 9 fish from my 75 into a 55 gallon ht to treat them all with copper as well! Uh oh! Not gonna be fun for me or the fish!
I'm worried that I am wasting valuable time since the copper isn't even showing up on the test. That's why I was wondering if I could add 3 more drops and then do the normal dose tomorrow?
I think that's a wise decision. Just make sure your fish that you are treating are eating in the qt before you begin treatment. I have found that it helped a lot with mine. Also I use garlic in my food as kind of an appetite boost. I don't know why but they will only eat it if it has garlic!
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Seeing fewer spots is always a good thing; but it really isn't an indicator of how the parasite's life-cycle is going. The white spot is just scar tissue and the ich parasite buries under the skin. Be patient and don't let the absence of spots tempt you into stopping treatment sooner than 4 weeks. Copper always works, when done properly.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Signs of ich mean absolutely nothing. You must keep copper at a therapeutic level for at least 4 weeks. Is the Gramma a new fish/ I wouldn't get any new fish until you're certain that the copper treatment has been successful and you don't want to introduce a new fish into a tank that has a full dose of copper. Also, all new fish should be quarantined for at least 6 weeks; just be patient and do things slowly and correctly. The hobby is much more enjoyable when things work and fish live. You are treating all of the fish that were exposed to the fish showing ich. right?
